In reply to SamSimpson:
There once for a reconnaissance and aclimitisation, left the valley at four, got to Monzino at 7, then far too late at the Eccles. Mostly the glacier was in the shadow, but the snow slope from the col to the hut itself had been in sun for several hours and felt LETHAL.
Not done any routes going up from the Eccles, but stopped there descending from the Aig Blanche North face, chased down by a storm. That we knew the route down from the Eccles to the Monzino was invaluable in the zero visibility, blizzard descent. Time spent in reconnaissance is seldom time wasted. We only just found the hut before the weather got really bad, it is pretty hard to find in descent at the best of times, which this wasn't.
A wild, remote part of the Mont Blanc massif, definitely feels Himalayan to me. Have never got to Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, probably never will now, nor the Pic Luigi Amedo.
Post edited at 23:29