UKC

Off to Cogne for a long weekend soon, first visit.
Any tips/advice on route choice (& anything else) for a first visit is much appreciated,
Top 10 routes maybe (conditions permitting), with a preference for longer/easier routes..?

Thanks! DSM.

In reply to DSM:

Just got back from Cogne. Some steeper icefalls are on the thin / not fully formed side, but most easy things are in perfect condition. Some easy/classic routes I'd recommend for a first visit:

Cascade de Lillaz (5 min approach from the Lillaz parking!)
Lillaz Gully
Grand Val
Patri (I have been on this route three times, it's always crowded)
Flash Estivo (or Monday Money, although it still looked a bit thin)

In reply to DSM:

Pattinaggio Artistico (WI-3)
Is a really underrated easier route, around Scottish IV or IV 5 depending on conditions. It only gets 1 star in the book but we thought it at least as good as Valmiana (WI-3) which I think gets 3.

In reply to timmeehhhh:

I wouldn't class grade 4 ice as easy.

Al

Thanks everyone, very helpful & much appreciated!
Anyone just got back from Cogne with any conditions info or other useful stuff?

DSM

In reply to DSM:
Routes in very good condition and as they are elsewhere too means it's quieter here, less crowded. Big dump of snow last night and today, take advice on Avalanche risk if you're here very soon. Next week looks good for you.

In reply to DSM:
Just back yesterday. I've been there maybe 10 times in the last 17 years and things are as lean as I've seen 'em but there are many things to go at. It was also very quiet - far less climbers about than in recent years. Among the "easier" and longer climbs that were done by me and/or mates are:
Sentiero dei Troll
Valmiana
Cascata di Lillaz (though the first pitch went out on Thursday - but the alt start may be OK, or it's avoidable)
Giandiotto By Night
Gran Val (not "Grand Val" - don't confuse the two as there's usually a big difference in grade)
L'acheronte (The first icefall route I ever did and as good as any and 400m if you do it all)
I think the start of Patinaggio Artistico will involve a longer scratchy traverse to reach the ice than is usual.
I think Monday Money is off limits due to the bird ban and anyway is 4 or 4+ As Gridnorth pointed out above - these are not easy!

Seek out Al Tarabas restaurant for good food and charming hosts. I reckon the best restaurant - not cheap but worth it - is Lou Ressignon. The pizzas in the restaurant under the Hotel d'Orso are good value. Best bars are Licone which also now does food and Grivola

Have a great trip.

In reply to Martin Bennett:

Cascades de Lillaz (WI-3+)Cascades de Lillaz (WI-3+)Cascades de Lillaz (WI-3+)
Did the cascades de lilaz today.
Good nick.quite a bit of new snow.
Quite busybut Lots of alternatives. Recommended.

In reply to Martin Bennett:

What do you mean when you say the first pitch went out? Has it melted?

In reply to neilwiltshire:
Sorry - I'm usually the last to confuse by abbreviation - "went out of condition" was what I should have said. Only second hand info but I was told some went to do it on Friday last week after we left and considered it too thin and wet at the top. It was getting done right up to that point.

In reply to DSM:

I just got back from Cogne on Sunday. An excellent week with good ice (though lean in places). We climbed Cascata di Lillaz on Monday 30th and it was excellent. By Wednesday the top of the first pitch was a waterfall!Looked unclimbable, though we did meet a couple later in the week who said they had climbed it. We also did Valmiana (good ice), Lillaz Gully (very wet first pitch), Patri (excellent but v popular) and Chandelle Levure (very wet top icefall melting in sun). 3" snow fell on Thursday night-Friday morning and probably more on Sunday (?), so watch out for avalanche risk.

In reply to Martin Bennett:

Hmm, thinking about heading out last weekend of Feb. Is it starting to warm up then?

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Cogne is probably most reliable in late January / early feb most years. However climbing can go on to late march some years (I think I've even seen ascent reports in April). However at pretty much any time a week (or more) of thaw can occur (normally associated with foehn winds) and does fairly regularly. Obviously the later in the season this occurs the less likely you'll be able to get anything done and the more likely it could be pretty catastrophic.

In reply to DSM:

just a thought-have you got modern kit?really helps-nomics and petzl darts make things much more fun!apols if you know all this....

In reply to neilwiltshire:


I've sent a message to a mate who's there just now. If I get a report back on the current state of play I'll let you know.

Yes thanks Tom, got mostly modern kit (although some ancient kit too). Body parts are 100% old though!

DSM