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Climbing in the Cascades

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Dheorl 01 Feb 2017
I've got a trip planned end of May time to climb some of the Cascades in the USA and was looking for some advice.

I notice most of the gear lists online, along with the one sent to me by the person organising the trip, specifies plastic double boots. Are these really necessary? For 4,000m peaks at a similar latitude to the alps seems overkill to me, but I understand climates can vary.

Is this just the American way of doing mountains, or is it really that cold? I note they also recommend an 80l backpack, which again for a 2 day trip seems mildly absurd.

If anyone has personally climbed there and can advise me it would be much appreciated.
1
 pneame 01 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

It depends on what time of year - if it's winter, most of the Cascades are seriously remote and challenging.

If it's summer, most of the cascades are just remote and challenging. A good chunk of the cascades are in the tree line (or at least the approaches are) and bushwhacking skills are important. Double boots will be ridiculous.

HOWEVER, it strikes me that by "the cascades" you actually mean Mt. Rainier. This is quite high and fairly Alpine. Like Mt Blanc, it can be quite interesting when the weather changes. Double boots would seem overkill, but yes, this is the American way of doing things. Particularly if it's a guided trip, in which case they don't want the clients having any risk at all of frostbite.
Also, being guided, they will want to "push on" if the weather is bad so that you are convinced you should have turned round earlier and again, won't want your money back. Rainier doesn't have too much in the way of objective dangers by the ordinary routes. Weather is the biggy.
Dheorl 01 Feb 2017
In reply to pneame:

As I say, it will be late May I'll be climbing.

By the Cascades I mean definitely Mt. Shasta, likely Mt. Hood, and then yes, depending on conditions, time and how we feel, might make our way up to Rainier. Might also try Whitney.

Won't be a guided trip, just me and a friend (and for Shasta a group that she knows), so if I start to get cold I won't hesitate to turn round.
 cat22 01 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

We climbed Rainier last July and used leather boots - Scarpa Charmoz. We also fitted all our gear into 35-40L packs, and everyone else we saw had much, much bigger packs. But we were living in Seattle at the time and had the luxury of being able to wait for a perfect weather forecast. I think a lot of the recommended kit lists for guided parties on Rainier and Shasta assume that you'll go up on a not so great forecast, as pneame says, and could potentially need to deal with the horrendous conditions often found on these mountains.

Another thing to note is that May is really early in the season for these mountains - summer comes later than I expected in the western US. Particularly with the current huge snowpack in California, people will definitely be skiing Shasta in May (myself included, hopefully). You may need snowshoes!

Check out the trip reports section on cascadeclimbers.org for some more info.
Dheorl 01 Feb 2017
In reply to cat22:

Thanks for the info, good to know about what you used. I'm currently looking at new shoes and Nepal Cubes are top of the list (or possibly Trango Ice) so by the sounds of things either should be fine. My friend is San Fran area, so for Shasta and probably Hood we'll be waiting for a nice weather window. I normally use a 35l for hut hikes (I like a few luxuries), so was probably looking at a 55l or so once camping equipment was included, but still a mile off the recommended 80l.

What pneame said about guided parties definitely makes sense.

I have been debating taking or hiring ski stuff, but I don't think the girl I'm doing it with would be comfortable, no idea about the rest of the group. Do you know if snowshoes will be needed even for the midnight to sunrise period? Trip might end up early June depending on weather windows.
 pneame 01 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

Late May can be pretty variable - there will certainly be a good amount of snow around - road closures should be ended by then:
http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/passes/northcascades
and
https://www.nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/road-conditions.htm

Double boots definitely overkill! IMHO, of course

I think you would find skis more of a hindrance than a help. But snowshoes, that might be useful!
I think early June would be a better bet.
I always have a phobia about mosquitos and have tried to avoid them in early season (early June to be precise) and been scuppered by the excess snow and late season (late September) and been scuppered by early snow, icing up the first pitches of the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell (a Cascades "roadside crag").
July and August are best and the Cascades mozzies are slow, lumbering beasts, so in principle you can dodge them. There are a lot, though.

Regardless, it's a fabulous place with some true wildness to it. So you should have a great time, provided you stay flexible.
Dheorl 01 Feb 2017
In reply to pneame:

Thanks for the reply.

I figured double boots may be overkill, but your explanation as to why they're suggested by guiding companies makes sense, especially knowing the American distaste for failure in the mountains.

Insects never really occurred to me as a problem, although having stayed around the various parts of the UK in prime midge season I'll probably survive. Are they still a problem even when there is ample snow coverage?
 cat22 01 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

We didn't encounter any mozzies last year on Mt St Helens (March), Mt Baker (May), Mt Adams (June) or Mt Rainier (July)! pneame's comments sound more appropriate to the Cascades proper, where there are loads of insects around alpine lakes when the snow melts, rather than the Cascade volcanoes.

I don't really have much experience with snowshoes (skiing is too much fun!), so probably best to find out what the rest of the group will be taking - you don't want to be the only one postholing But you'd be able to rent them around here. A 55l bag will be ample.

I'm also now in the San Fran area, so I'll update this if we get up Shasta before the end of May and have anything to add!
Dheorl 01 Feb 2017
In reply to cat22:

Good to know. I guess the Cascades encompasses quite a lot. Good to know snowshoes can be hired in the area.

As I say, I like a few luxuries, hence the slightly larger pack than what you might be using. You've obviously done a few of these mountains, do you mind me asking what tent you've used? As it stands atm we've got the choice between my Hilleberg Nallo GT (rather large) or my friends REI own-brand backpacking tent (concerns over strength). A "bivi-tent" is something I've considered for a while, but wasn't intending on buying one for this trip.

Where in the Bay Area are you? Would be humorous if we were by chance on the mountain at the same time.
 loose overhang 01 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

I agree with most of the other posters' contributions. You won't need double boots, except Ranier is considerably higher than the other cascade volcanos, so it is colder. Late May means snow at tree-line and higher. This can aid travel on descent. By then skis will be a better option than snowshoes, if you intend to go with more than boots.

It has been an unusually cold winter thus far, but it could melt out early if the weather gets warm. Getting to the mountains might be more difficult than getting up them if the roads are still impassable, so picking the appropriate peak for the conditions might get you to unexpected and interesting places.

Insects won't be a problem in May. They tend to emerge around mid-July to end of August. I've had more annoyance from black flies than mosquitoes in recent years.

Dheorl 01 Feb 2017
In reply to loose overhang:

Thanks,

By higher I assume you mean in latitude?

As I say, my friend isn't the best on skis and there's been no mention of it from the rest of the group, so much as I may enjoy it doesn't look like they'll be an option.

It's typical, I'm always in the wrong place for snow. I went to Whistler in 2015 when they'd had their worst winter in years, and this year I've so far stayed in the UK where there's been equally little. I should get people to employ me to avoid where they want to ski to ensure they get good snow

I think people are fairly set on Shasta atm and will just wait for the opportunity, but when it's just my friend and I we'll be more open to what looks good at the time. It's good to know about insects (or hopeful lack thereof).
1
 pneame 01 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:
Mozzies and snow - no! Their peak season is July and early August and they are definitely easier to deal with than midges.

as cat22 says - not such a problem on the volcanoes either as they are not conducive to their favourite breeding spots.
 cat22 02 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

Re. tent: we used our aging-but-still-great Terra Nova Solar 2, which isn't made any more. It worked really well. With the Hilleberg tent, my worry would be that it's not freestanding, and it'd be hard to get it pitched reliably on snow. If the REI one is self-supporting, it would probably be a better option. We learnt a few things about pitching tents on snow on those trips - we found that the best method was to bury small stuff sacks filled with hard packed snow, and attach the tent guylines to these. Worth googling for some ideas if this'll be new to you.

By bivi-tent do you mean the kind that is supported by trekking poles?

Send me a PM if you'd like to chat more - I have a bunch of useful links for Rainier that I can email you if you like!
Dheorl 02 Feb 2017
In reply to cat22:

I'll reply here regarding tent just for sake of completeness if other people are interested.

The Nallo I haven't found too hard to get pitched in awkward spots before. Hilleberg tents are pretty much designed for the snow, so as long as I can flatten out an area big enough I should be fine from that regard.

When I say bivi-tent I mean along the lines of the Nemo Tengi, MH Direkt, BD firstlight etc. Small single skin tents designed for squeezing onto awkward spots on the mountain. Would likely get the porch to go with whatever I chose to make 'indoor' cooking more feasible. With this in mind it's tempting to use just the Nallo fly and squeeze 4 people in. Main concern then would be lack of ventilation.

If you want to PM me the links that would be grand, thanks.
 loose overhang 02 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

I was thinking of elevation, but Rainier is quite far north too. Another poster wrote it doesn't have have objective dangers, but it has all the usual hazards of a big mountain, such as avalanche, crevasse and rockfall.
 Raymondo 02 Feb 2017
In reply to cat22:
> Send me a PM if you'd like to chat more - I have a bunch of useful links for Rainier that I can email you if you like!

Could post the Rainier links up on UKC, I'm sure a few folks (me included) would find them useful/interesting.
Just a thought.


Interesting too.....
Mt Rainier 46º 51' North 4392m
Mt Blanc 45º 50' North 4807m (+/- 3m)
Just sayin'
Post edited at 02:48
Dheorl 02 Feb 2017
In reply to loose overhang:

Shasta, the one I'm sort of planning the trip around, is only 70m short of Rainier; probably not enough to make much difference temperature wise. I imagine the 5deg latitude difference makes more of a difference.

I'm fairly used to moving in big mountains so know to respect the dangers. They do seem quite different between the larger Cascades, from what I've seen highlighted at least. Rainier seems to be crevasse, Shasta has the avalanches. Hood the main threat seems to be other peoples stupidity (along with rockfall of course)
Dheorl 02 Feb 2017
In reply to Raymondo:

Yea, this comparison to the larger alps was sort of what I was basing my thoughts on gear around. I know people will often go up Mt Blanc in Mantas or similar, so reading that doubles were necessary completely threw me, but wanted to check with people who'd been there.
 cat22 02 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl and Raymondo:

Ok here's some Rainier links

NPS climbing ranger conditions reports: http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/
(for conditions, also check the blogs for the 3 guiding companies: Alpine Ascents, RMI, IMG)
Rainier weather forecast: https://www.atmos.washington.edu/data/rainier_report.html
(look for low summit wind speeds!)
All the trip reports you could want: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/forums/4/1/Mount_Rainier_NP
So, you want to climb Mt Rainier: http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=507227&confirm_post...
Interesting stats: http://www.stephabegg.com/home/projects/rainierstatistics
How to use a picket: http://www.sunrockice.com/docs/Snow%20Anchors.pdf
NPS permit info: https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/climbing-pass.htm

Emmons-Winthrop trip reports:
http://loomisadventures.com/blog/climbing-mt-rainier-emmons-winthrop-glacie...
http://www.mattsea.com/featured/Emmons/
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=4846

A typical guided experience on the Disappointment Cleaver route, so you can time an ascent to avoid them: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=14132&parmuser=23063...

We did the DC route, camping at Ingraham Flats. We left at midnight to get ahead of the guided parties, moved faster than them, and arrived alone on the summit to probably the most spectacular sunrise I've ever seen. The entire route had beautiful views. Technically it was very easy, because the guiding companies put in a lot of effort to keep it that way, but there were long sections where a misstep would have serious consequences. There's objective danger from rockfall in some areas, too. We left the car park at 5400' at 9am on the first day, were at the summit around 5am on the second day, and were back at the car again by 2pm the next day.
 loose overhang 02 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

I didn't know that Shasta was so close to the height of Rainier. It doesn't look like it from I-5.

I went up Rainier via the Kautz glacier about 6 years ago. We had the route to ourselves, but came upon a few folks on the summit. It was below freezing and the wind was very strong, so the wind chill was pretty high, but not unusual for the summit. Some of the crevasses on Rainier are frighteningly enormous. There is rockfall hazard on that route just above Camp Hazard, really, that's its name. Our times each day were about the same as cat22 on the DC.

We found an abandoned cooler in the parking lot when we got back. We monitored it for over an hour, but concluded that the tourists who had left it wouldn't realize their loss until the evening, and certainly would not come back for it. So we helped ourselves to the beer and food in it. Mmm .... hard to beat free food.

I've found this to be a useful website: http://www.mountain-forecast.com/
 IainL 03 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

When alpine climbing in the Cascades in 60s we used ordinary leather climbing boots, and a 30l pack at max. For a weekend alpine trip, rock and ice, our maximum pack weight with everything but rope was less than 20lbs. This was OK for any Rainier routes, NW Forbidden, N Face Shuksan and similar. If the weather was really bad we went to the pub.
We walked in Fri/Sat, climbed Sunday and got home late Sunday or early Monday.
 Raymondo 04 Feb 2017
In reply to cat22:

> Ok here's some Rainier links

Nice one, thank you.
I think I have my lunch time browsing sorted for the next two weeks, LOL.
Dheorl 04 Feb 2017
In reply to IainL:

Thanks, that's good to know.

I imagine I'll be going with slightly more gear than that, purely because I like a few creature comforts/nice camera, but the fact it can be done with such minimal gear is comforting.
Dheorl 11 Feb 2017
In reply to cat22:

I was hoping I could ask one more question as it's another point I'm finding very mixed advice on.

What did you sleep in? Both temp/fill-weight of bag and what you boosted it with.
 cat22 12 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

I used my aging ~8 year old AlpKit Pipedream, don't know exactly which model because the writing has worn off! I believe it had an original temperature rating of about -7C. I had my down jacket but can't remember if I slept in it or not. We had just splashed out on new mats - Thermarest NeoAir - which are totally awesome.

A caveat, though: our general attitude is to wait for perfect weather and pack light. We don't use kit that would keep us particularly comfortable in bad weather - it's enough to keep safe, but waiting out a storm would be unpleasant. So for people who go on their chosen date whatever the weather, it wouldn't be the kit they advise. Pick your own comfort level
Dheorl 12 Feb 2017
In reply to cat22:

Can I just clarify, rating of about -7 comfort or comfort-limit?

Already have a NeoAir; agreed, they're sweet bits of gear =) I'm certainly not planning on sitting out any storms, but not sure how flexible on date people are looking to be.
 loose overhang 12 Feb 2017
In reply to Dheorl:

Your chosen time of year being late May means the weather can be a significant consideration because the climate in the Cascades around then, usually means alternating short periods of wet and dry. That said, the weather forecasts are very reliable for two or three days. Therefore I wouldn't contemplate camping at all for more than one or two nights high in the mountains, so a three-season bag and tent should be okay. You'll likely be camped on snow, even low down, so taking a couple of thermal pads will help a lot. Unfortunately, you've picked probably the most unpredictable weather time of year to be there. You're equally likely to get snow showers as you are lovely warm days.

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