In reply to GeoffG:
The small village of Valdecabras is a great place to stay. it is quiet, picturesque-ish and it is right at the heart of the Sierra. Besides it is really close to the crags with the same name, which are, in my opinion, the ones with the most 'universal' grading. i found the other crags, the older ones, pretty hard for the grade and pretty bold (i m talking 7a and below). All in one it is an amazing place, and the city itself is beautiful, specially over easter when the processions are on.