UKC

FRI NIGHT VIDEO - Big Wall Climbing in Africa

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 UKC News 03 Feb 2017
Fri Night Vid - Gaz Leah, 3 kbOur film this week is an expedition to the 'armpit of Africa' - namely the island of São Tomé and Príncipe, just south of Nigeria. Gareth Leah from the UK attempts a first ascent on a beautiful volcanic pillar, which he found by googling 'super-villian lairs' and 'tower of Mordor.' The film encapsulates the extreme highs and lows of a painful expedition into the jungle, where basic tasks such as eating, drinking and sleeping become difficult.

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11
 astoman 03 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Nubivagant (Wandering in the Clouds) 455m, 5.13d/A0 (F8b)
from the descripion:
5. 8 bolts, 15m 5.10b(F6a+) – Take the blocky face to the slab.
6. 9 bolts, 35m 5.6 (F4c) – A long scramble pitch with some vertical climbing at the mid-point. Run out.
7. 10 bolts, 35m 5.9 (F5) – Another scramble with a tricky exit onto the ledge.
8. 9 bolts, 25m 5.10c (F6b) – Hard start up steep rock to easy finish.
9. 8 bolts, 20m 5.9 (F5) – Traverse the foot ledge with good hands to a tricky exit.
10. 9 bolts, 35m 5.10c (F6b) – Hand jam the blocks to a ledge. Walk across and climb the technical face to the chains in the overhanging roof.
11. 13 bolts, 35m 5.11d (F7a) – Traverse right and up the gully to a hard finish on the ledge.

Sounds so hard core!
No wonder they were tired after drilling probably well over 200 bolts on the thing.

2
In reply to UKC News:

What a brilliant little video. Amazing climbing eccentrics!

Alan
1
 mBob8 03 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Gah! Such a shame to let down such an impressive peak. Was no trad gear possible at all!?!? (If it appears that the biggest challenge was locating parts to fix your battery charger, then you're doing it wrong! Very wrong IMO). A good exploratory trip no doubt and though they might ''improve as a person'' it deserves no respect if you do nothing but drill and bolt the mountain. But then I suppose you might not be able to haul a camera crew with you.... And thats clearly what its all about!
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Removed User 03 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Stunning mountain in what looked like a pristine wilderness (though they seemed to be able to get back to town fairly easily so maybe not as wild as it appeared). The style of the ascent seemed totally at odds with that environment. I'm sure the cleaning and equipping of the route and then the climbing itself was a hard athletic endeavour but it just seemed a brutal assault on the mountain with no environmental sensitivity or respect.
7
 Greasy Prusiks 03 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:
So basically they went into the middle of a pristine wilderness, bolted their way up an unclimbed peak, abbed off, attempted the route as a sport climb before failing and pulled their arses up on the bolts (again) to get to the top for a photo?

I'm far from a hardcore "trad only, death to bolts" kind of guy and I appreciate that I've never even seen the route but those 'ethics' make my teeth itch.
Post edited at 20:54
3
 andyman666999 03 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

The quality of the picture is top notch and I admire the enthusiasm, especially as it would appear a difficult island to reach in the first place.
I couldn't find any information about the background of the crag but it does definitely seem very much lacking in a sense of purity when you're just watching someone drill holes and the most desperate part of the expedition seems to revolve around whether the final drill charger will work or not when it's suggested that even eating and drinking are difficult. Not to mention that they seem to be making daily trips from town to the crag.

Fun it is Autana it is not.
1
 wiwwim 03 Feb 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

not sure I would take my helmet off for any climbing on that rock! They didn't shout BELOW! either when chucking big rocks down.....smash bang wallop. Enjoyed it though.
1
 olddirtydoggy 03 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

That bloke said everything in the form of a question? He couldn't talk without that inflection in his voice? The style of climbing wasn't really great to watch? Thanks anyway?
4
 Wft 04 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

More like this please Nick, where do you find this stuff?
 jon 04 Feb 2017
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

> That bloke said everything in the form of a question? He couldn't talk without that inflection in his voice? The style of climbing wasn't really great to watch?

Ha, nice one, well done? Yes I agree, upspeak is annoying. At least he didn't have vocal fry to go with it. To be fair, bolting ground up will never make interesting footage.

A more general comment to the critics of Gaz's ethics above - why, on an island, with (and I'm assuming here...) no previous climbing history, does the default setting have to be trad? This attitude does come across like missionaries bringing/inflicting christianity to the natives whether they want it or not...
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 Robert Durran 04 Feb 2017
In reply to jon:
> A more general comment to the critics of Gaz's ethics above - why, on an island, with (and I'm assuming here...) no previous climbing history, does the default setting have to be trad? This attitude does come across like missionaries bringing/inflicting christianity to the natives whether they want it or not...

And systematic bolting doesn't?

Edit: Actually I don't think either does, but since you brought it up.........
Post edited at 10:07
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 Greasy Prusiks 04 Feb 2017
In reply to jon:

> A more general comment to the critics of Gaz's ethics above - why, on an island, with (and I'm assuming here...) no previous climbing history, does the default setting have to be trad? This attitude does come across like missionaries bringing/inflicting christianity to the natives whether they want it or not...

It's interesting, I agree with you that climbers shouldn't arrive in a country and dictate what the local ethics should be and it's because of that I disagree with the style used in the film.

What happened in the film is two foreign climbers deciding that they wanted a bolted route so they just went ahead and bolted it. This is permanent change to the rock and can never be undone by local climbers. To me that's the semi colonial, foreigners dictating ethics that you talk about.

If they'd climbed the route in a more trad style then they would have left the bolt/don't bolt decision up to local climbers in the future. Bolting a route is a permanent change to a country they are merely visiting but a trad ascent sets nothing more permanent than a convention. If locals want to retro bolt -great, but taking away the decision seems pretty dodgy to me.
1
 jon 04 Feb 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Good reply! What if there are no cracks?
 Jim Lancs 04 Feb 2017
<< . . . why, on an island, with (and I'm assuming here...) no previous climbing history, does the default setting have to be trad? >>

I think you've answered your own question. It's a pristine, unclimbed bit of rock in what looked like a bit of untouched forest. So why not leave it as much like that when you're done? There used to be a maxim of leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but photos . . etc. What ever happened to that?

This lot didn't show much empathy towards their surroundings did they? The whole thing looked thoroughly contrived.
1
 Robert Durran 04 Feb 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

> If locals want to retro bolt -great, but taking away the decision seems pretty dodgy to me.

Or, to be fair, they could just chop the bolts.

I don't think "style imperialism" is really the issue here........
5
 Robert Durran 04 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:
"Some people climb mountains for the world to see them. Some people climb mountains to see the world", he says, signing a T-shirt to leave on the summit. Cameraman, drone etc........ Mmm...... well I'm sure it was all good fun and something a bit different and that's the important thing
Post edited at 11:26
 Chris Harris 04 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

I'm looking forward to footage of next year's UKC expedition to free the route. I see plenty of candidates & volunteers already.
1
 USBRIT 04 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

I think most of the critical posts are coming from folk who have never have and never will attempt a tower on sight ground up... yes its difficult on a tower without perhaps a helicopter to place bolts and practice and chalk mark all the holds from above ...as is the common practice of most of out "top" rock climbers. Bolting on lead free or aid is not easy.
8
 Robert Durran 04 Feb 2017
In reply to jon:

> What if there are no cracks?

Well, one option is to let the impossible live to fight another day.

4
 Greasy Prusiks 04 Feb 2017
In reply to jon:

Thanks.

I guess the skill is in finding a line of features you can protect.

Anyway I'm off climbing, have a good weekend all.
 USBRIT 04 Feb 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Think about getting down it is nearly 500m... rapping off twin bolts is preferable ...Its not El Cap where one can just walk off !
4
 jon 04 Feb 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Well, one option is to let the impossible live to fight another day.

Well yes, but not a very realistic one if you've just spent all your money getting there.
3
 astoman 04 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

it's all the bad style, incessant posing and stupidity displayed so blatantly in the film that is a bummer.
The issue here is adidas spending 1000s of euros for someone full of crap to go climb a dream tower when they are in the position to support someone with a bit of heart.
4
 astoman 04 Feb 2017
In reply to USBRIT:

most critical posts obviously come from people who do not do ground up FAs on towers for the simple reason, that most people commenting on UK climbing do not do g-u FAs on towers....

most not-so-critical posts also come from people who do not do g-u FAs on towers.

statistics.
1
 Robert Durran 04 Feb 2017
In reply to jon:

> Well yes, but not a very realistic one if you've just spent all your money getting there.

Well it costs me well over £100 in petrol money to go to Pembroke........ and I'd really, really love to do Souls
1
 Rob Parsons 04 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Each to his/her own, and this looks like a fun trip. But both the vid and the accompanying description of it here invite more questions than they answer so, since they and their sponsors have put it these things out there, I guess we're invited to comment.

1. The description says 'a painful expedition into the jungle, where basic tasks such as eating, drinking and sleeping become difficult.' This trip was a 3km walk-in from the road (okay, it could be a gnarly 3k - but it didn't look *too* bad on the vid, and it's not exactly 'in the middle of the jungle'); and as the vid implied, there seemed to be no great problem in getting back to town as and when required. In what ways exactly were 'eating, drinking and sleeping' difficult?

2. The numbers of bolts used suggests (suggests only - I wasn't there obviously) a fairly uncritical and indiscriminate approach: why put 9 bolts in a single 5.6 pitch for example?

3. The 'drill charging' problems are never explained. The suggestion is that the caps were blowing on account of the humidity - which I've never of before - but then the final solution appears to be simply stepping down the input voltage used for the charger. Were they just frying the chargers with the wrong voltage to start with?

4. As Robert Durran has mentioned, the final homily delivered at the summit 't-shirt signing ceremony' is as illogical as it gets under the (filmed and then publicised) circumstances here. Not to mention unforgivably trite.

Does look a nice place to visit though.
 jon 04 Feb 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:
> and I'd really, really love to do Souls

Me too! It'd cost me a fair bit more than £100 though.
Post edited at 15:02
 USBRIT 04 Feb 2017
In reply to astoman:
Some non-so- critical posts do come from those who have done many G-U FA's on Towers. ...statistics...
8
 Robert Durran 04 Feb 2017
In reply to jon:

> Me too! It'd cost me a fair bit more than £100 though.

In that case I reckon you'd be completely justified in placing a couple of bolts if it made the difference between success and failure.
 jon 04 Feb 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

Thanks Rob! Sadly it might take more than a couple...
 astoman 04 Feb 2017
In reply to USBRIT:

I bet your "some" is a rather small number.
It doesn't matter anyway. Appeal to authority is a logical fallacy.
 USBRIT 04 Feb 2017
In reply to astoman:

Yes quite small just over 30...and yours?
 astoman 04 Feb 2017
In reply to USBRIT:
are we talking number of posts?
because I was talking number of posters ... doh.
reading.
Post edited at 16:56
 USBRIT 04 Feb 2017
In reply to astoman:
I know for a fact its a lot more than those reading your dumb illiterate comments.
Post edited at 17:02
9
 astoman 04 Feb 2017
In reply to USBRIT:

there are lots of people wasting their time reading dumb stuff on the internet. I hardly make a difference, neither do you!
 USBRIT 04 Feb 2017
In reply to astoman:

I agree .. however suggest for a start you do not comment on such subjects when its obvious you have little experience of this type of ascent.. I see you have edited your post regarding numbers of towers ...those 30 I mentioned were just FA's double that amount to all tower ascents ..just to rub it in ...Cheers.
6
 astoman 04 Feb 2017
In reply to USBRIT:
I have done FAs all over the world, Patagonia, Baffin, Utah (towers)... not on any African Towers...
As I said, I don't see how that (dis)-qualifies me from commenting.
edit: just to rub it in
Post edited at 17:39
 USBRIT 04 Feb 2017
In reply to astoman
I am surprise then that you did not appreciate the effort these guys put into their ascent ...regardless it is a lot of determination and hard work. .. If you hide behind nick names that's your problem .. I am interested in you FA's of Utah towers so I can identify you.. Cheers
3
 astoman 04 Feb 2017
In reply to USBRIT:

I think they focused their effort on raising funds and making fanfare, instead of putting out an honest report of what they did:
-they put up a long sport climb.
-big walling on a 400 meters tall wall with 400 meters of fixed line IS not that extreme (of course it doesn't need to be, just be honest about it and all's good).
-they were 3 km from the next road.

Everyone climbs in the style they want... of course. In the grand scheme of things, this stuff hardly matters.

I prefer not to be identified, but I did one probably worthless FA on a very much not worthless Utah tower (no bolts, no pins, if that matters...). What a glorious landscape around there.
1
 d18 04 Feb 2017
In reply to astoman:
Great points. In addition, MaCiness, Mo Anthoine and Joe Brown did this stuff in South America, circa 30 years ago! Why does social media want to present everything a s new!
Post edited at 19:36
 Mick Ward 04 Feb 2017
In reply to d18:

Hmm... surely it's only been claimed that it's a new - and rather off the grid - venue?

I rather doubt (but may be wrong) that the All Star Team of yore left a route that folk were rushing to do. (Has it had a second ascent?) Whereas this gang have left a route which clearly invites the attentions of another team. Their successors won't have to struggle with the bolting; they can just get on and see if they can free it. OK to get from F7c to F8b there may have to be the odd bolt re-positioned/extended etc but surely most of the 'pain' has been taken out of the route.

Trad style? Depends on availability of cracks and stability of rock, surely?

Of all of us, probably the people with the most relevant experience are John Arran, followed by 'USBRIT'. The first has yet to comment and the second has been magnanimous.

Just some thoughts.

Mick

 nutme 04 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Great to see videos of people climbing average stuff. Things myself with friends could do. More of this!
 Robert Durran 04 Feb 2017
In reply to nutme:

> Great to see videos of people climbing average stuff. Things myself with friends could do. More of this!

Can't be bothered to watch it again, but didn't he say 13a - hardly "average".

 Rob Parsons 04 Feb 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Can't be bothered to watch it again, but didn't he say 13a - hardly "average".

13d is the claim: http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2016/06/big-wall-ascent-sao-tome/
Post edited at 21:25
Bogwalloper 04 Feb 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Well it costs me well over £100 in petrol money to go to Pembroke........ and I'd really, really love to do Souls

Souls is an existing route - you're talking shite again and being obstreperous.

Wallbert.
3
 Robert Durran 04 Feb 2017
In reply to Bogwalloper:
> Souls is an existing route - you're talking shite again and being obstreperous.

Hence the winky smiley thing And because I seemed to remember it was a route coveted by Jon.

Anyway, I stand by the intended point that spending a lot of money to go somewhere is not an excuse for poor climbing style.
Post edited at 21:55
 USBRIT 05 Feb 2017
In reply to astoman:
Well that's OK ...I though it would be rather obscure if you did anything in that area. .. ... It does take some doing if the tower was any height at all not place some bolts in order to rap back down .. We always clean aided on sight no pegs just bolts for unprotected sections ... leaving it open for any future free ascent attempts.
I just admire such adventures as these lads did compared to the one pitch wonders that are bolted from above practiced for days (years) all the holds marked and they get so much publicity ...its a joke.
Best Wishes...
Post edited at 12:18
1
 astoman 05 Feb 2017
In reply to USBRIT:

the tower had other older routes on it. we rapped one of those.
Best wishes!
 chris smith 05 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Nice video footage but didnt see any climbing, was more of a how to bolt a route lesson. Didnt even watch it until the end.
 mit 06 Feb 2017
In reply to UKC News:

It seems that I can use google too, there's thread on the other channel:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1664512/Pico-C-o-Grande

It does seem that they have improved on the style of the first ascent:

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hS98M4aZmvI/Tr8jdyhWVPI/AAAAAAABjbE/b0i9P...

If anyone's keen to go the airport code is TMS and about £900 for the flight.
 Rob Parsons 06 Feb 2017
In reply to mit:

> It does seem that they have improved on the style of the first ascent ...

Or, arguably, they've just used a different type of ladder.
 Fat Bumbly2 15 Feb 2017
In reply to mit:

Its a great wee island, usually accessed through Lisbon. More of a chilled out beach destination.
The peak is amongst old cocoa plantations, only saw it once due to the constant cloud.

The other STP island, Principe looks like King Kong's lair and has other volcanic plugs, not as spectacular as Cao Grande but still very outlandish. Now that really is a chilled out island. Being fat, getting there was traumatic, they weigh you with your luggage.

Leve Leve

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