In reply to Pete Scott:
There is a World Cup at Ratho this year. They will have lead and speed. There is talk that an Olympic style comp is planned but no dates as yet. Probably next year at the earliest.
The people who have won overall championships previously have all been good lead and bouldering climbers but get a reasonable speed result. Speed climbers don't transfer so well as they tend to be too specialised.
The other issue is that the only official speed wall in UK is in Ratho.
Post edited at 20:25