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Placeholder in case anyone wants to post, stats to follow...
2
Happy February to all involved and anyone looking to join fit club for week 516!
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Next episode of the lattice training videos on the subject of fingerboards can be found here:
http://www.epictv.com/media/series-home/lattice-trainings-epic-series/50052...
Last week’s thread can be found here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=657578
HMS: 6 days on, not surprised you were feeling it by the end of the week. Nice work!
AJM: How many pram laps this week? (Congrats btw!)
TonyB: Fought off the illness?
Si dH: How are the 5s repeaters going- have you seen progress over the last couple of weeks? (IIRC you introduced them relatively recently?)
Tyler: I don’t know what house of pain is, but it sounds awesome/
biscuit: Well done on the cycling, that’s quite a lot of energy expenditure every day. What are you studying?
Ally Smith: Awesome work on In Life, well done! Did you get back on Broken Trigger this week?
hokkyo: Is the running getting easier or harder as your streak goes on?
the sheep: Which triathlon distance are you going to pick? Nice work with weight loss even in the face of celebration!
DanDan: Thanks for doing the stats the last couple of weeks. We are looking forward to hearing the details of your results, and maybe your key takeaways from the last phase of training?
Guy127917: Don’t die
leeboy: You’re very consistent at getting out into the mountains, it’s impressive. Do you feel like a change in your base fitness level?
Jen Jones: You are amazing
Richard Popp: Nice one keeping the core work up to the end! Fingers crossed you needed to do less nurse duties this week?
mattrm: So you are nice and consistent at getting routes in- what do you think is your current weakest attribute (i.e. strength, endurance, technique, etc)?
Bobling: Nice work on the STG! With running through pain I try and ask myself whether the pain feels like my brain warning me to stop, or whether it’s the sensation of actual tissue damage. Either way, it’s never wrong to rest it, but in the first case, *sometimes* slowing it right down for a while (HR ~120-130) can be helpful (caveat- I don’t know at what intensity you run normally, what your HR zones are etc etc).
Just TinTin: Good luck in the boulder league, what more motivation could you need!
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Next episode of the lattice training videos on the subject of fingerboards can be found here:
http://www.epictv.com/media/series-home/lattice-trainings-epic-series/50052...
Last week’s thread can be found here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=657578
HMS: 6 days on, not surprised you were feeling it by the end of the week. Nice work!
AJM: How many pram laps this week? (Congrats btw!)
TonyB: Fought off the illness?
Si dH: How are the 5s repeaters going- have you seen progress over the last couple of weeks? (IIRC you introduced them relatively recently?)
Tyler: I don’t know what house of pain is, but it sounds awesome/
biscuit: Well done on the cycling, that’s quite a lot of energy expenditure every day. What are you studying?
Ally Smith: Awesome work on In Life, well done! Did you get back on Broken Trigger this week?
hokkyo: Is the running getting easier or harder as your streak goes on?
the sheep: Which triathlon distance are you going to pick? Nice work with weight loss even in the face of celebration!
DanDan: Thanks for doing the stats the last couple of weeks. We are looking forward to hearing the details of your results, and maybe your key takeaways from the last phase of training?
Guy127917: Don’t die
leeboy: You’re very consistent at getting out into the mountains, it’s impressive. Do you feel like a change in your base fitness level?
Jen Jones: You are amazing
Richard Popp: Nice one keeping the core work up to the end! Fingers crossed you needed to do less nurse duties this week?
mattrm: So you are nice and consistent at getting routes in- what do you think is your current weakest attribute (i.e. strength, endurance, technique, etc)?
Bobling: Nice work on the STG! With running through pain I try and ask myself whether the pain feels like my brain warning me to stop, or whether it’s the sensation of actual tissue damage. Either way, it’s never wrong to rest it, but in the first case, *sometimes* slowing it right down for a while (HR ~120-130) can be helpful (caveat- I don’t know at what intensity you run normally, what your HR zones are etc etc).
Just TinTin: Good luck in the boulder league, what more motivation could you need!
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. A mere 5 days of climbing this week, and I'm feeling pretty darn tired now. It is all a bit of a blur what I did when so the following may be a tad approximate.
M - cycle commute. Yoga in eveing - hip stretches, ouch.
T - cycle commute. UCR on way home to do more FoC. Usual 5 circuit combo to warm up then FoC laddering keeping a record of the times. Started better than last week but tailed off to the asme point.
W - cycle commute. UCR routes in evening. I think it was 14 routes in pairs, know it included 2 new 6c and 1 new 6c+. Tried a 7b but got shut down on some real power moves over the roof. Lapped 2 7as. Out of my 5 standard lapping routes, 3 have been removed without direct grade replacements - grrr. Scapula pullups whilst evening meal was cooking.
T - cycle commute. S&C stuff so pressups, sit-ups with +9kg. Lots of rehab.
F - TCA trying the new circuits to warm up then on the minute bouldering 20, rest, then another 20. Yet more rehab in the evening.
S - TCA with D1, trying to do some sort of stab at an an-power session. Lots of goes on the blacks which I hadn't done, now only 6 remain but not sure any more will go. Then 7b circuit working it in chunks. It's on the steep board and has big moves to blocky holds. Have done all the moves plus some long links but nowhere near putting it all together. One downhill section in particular isn't very nice!
S - Redpoint with D1. More routes in pairs with lots in the low 7s. Tried a new 7a+ and had a bit of a freak-out on it - didn't seem to be a single honest holdable hold, have no idea how one is supposed to clip! Dozen routes plus 1/2 dozen on the auto-belay too. Scapular pull-ups in the evening.
Right shoulder has been on/of grouchy so have been doing a lot of rehab - something most evenings. Also topical ibuprofen seems to work very well on it & calm it down, which is a relief. Fingers fine as long as I tape them - I forgot for the FoC session and suffered afterwards. This week is a little lighter which is just as well as visiting my parents is going to annihilate 2 days. 3 weeks to Chulilla.
Thanks Guy. A mere 5 days of climbing this week, and I'm feeling pretty darn tired now. It is all a bit of a blur what I did when so the following may be a tad approximate.
M - cycle commute. Yoga in eveing - hip stretches, ouch.
T - cycle commute. UCR on way home to do more FoC. Usual 5 circuit combo to warm up then FoC laddering keeping a record of the times. Started better than last week but tailed off to the asme point.
W - cycle commute. UCR routes in evening. I think it was 14 routes in pairs, know it included 2 new 6c and 1 new 6c+. Tried a 7b but got shut down on some real power moves over the roof. Lapped 2 7as. Out of my 5 standard lapping routes, 3 have been removed without direct grade replacements - grrr. Scapula pullups whilst evening meal was cooking.
T - cycle commute. S&C stuff so pressups, sit-ups with +9kg. Lots of rehab.
F - TCA trying the new circuits to warm up then on the minute bouldering 20, rest, then another 20. Yet more rehab in the evening.
S - TCA with D1, trying to do some sort of stab at an an-power session. Lots of goes on the blacks which I hadn't done, now only 6 remain but not sure any more will go. Then 7b circuit working it in chunks. It's on the steep board and has big moves to blocky holds. Have done all the moves plus some long links but nowhere near putting it all together. One downhill section in particular isn't very nice!
S - Redpoint with D1. More routes in pairs with lots in the low 7s. Tried a new 7a+ and had a bit of a freak-out on it - didn't seem to be a single honest holdable hold, have no idea how one is supposed to clip! Dozen routes plus 1/2 dozen on the auto-belay too. Scapular pull-ups in the evening.
Right shoulder has been on/of grouchy so have been doing a lot of rehab - something most evenings. Also topical ibuprofen seems to work very well on it & calm it down, which is a relief. Fingers fine as long as I tape them - I forgot for the FoC session and suffered afterwards. This week is a little lighter which is just as well as visiting my parents is going to annihilate 2 days. 3 weeks to Chulilla.
1
In reply to guy127917:
M: Nowt
T: HoP, warm up on the board followed by dead hanging. One set of 4x7/3 followed by about 7 sets of 6x7/3, long rests in between.
W: Nowt
T: HoP, warm up on the board followed by dead hanging. One set of 4x7/3 followed by about 7 sets of 6x7/3, long rests in between (set 5 and 6 were with5kgs added weight). Got some weight training advice.
F: did a bit of experimentation with some light weights, interesting and something I'm
S: New half set at BUK, did the V5s and a V5/6 (my first since injury) but couldn't do one of the V4s.
S: Depot, messing around plus tried some of the comp problems. Flashed 22 and 23, I expect to be able to do 24, 25 and possibly 27. Got 3/4 of the way around the 7b circuit as I was leaving which was pleasing.
I think I may actually be getting back to being as strong as I was before, still weak as piss but obviously but pleased with my plans for weight training.
> Tyler: I don’t know what house of pain is, but it sounds awesome
It's a friends board, one about 40 degrees the other about 20, I'm not strong enough to make good use of the 40.M: Nowt
T: HoP, warm up on the board followed by dead hanging. One set of 4x7/3 followed by about 7 sets of 6x7/3, long rests in between.
W: Nowt
T: HoP, warm up on the board followed by dead hanging. One set of 4x7/3 followed by about 7 sets of 6x7/3, long rests in between (set 5 and 6 were with5kgs added weight). Got some weight training advice.
F: did a bit of experimentation with some light weights, interesting and something I'm
S: New half set at BUK, did the V5s and a V5/6 (my first since injury) but couldn't do one of the V4s.
S: Depot, messing around plus tried some of the comp problems. Flashed 22 and 23, I expect to be able to do 24, 25 and possibly 27. Got 3/4 of the way around the 7b circuit as I was leaving which was pleasing.
I think I may actually be getting back to being as strong as I was before, still weak as piss but obviously but pleased with my plans for weight training.
Post edited at 20:25
1
In reply to guy127917:
Maintenance/recovery week this week-
M: Rest day
T: 2 hours bouldering- felt awful having had 2 weeks off climbing without axey things.
W: 4 mile run
T: 1 hour light bouldering - mega forearm DOMS from Tuesday session.
F: 5 mile run, 2 hour coached session- really good to get some critique on my technique, have a few things to work on.
Sa: Rest day
Sun: 5 mile run, 2 hours working the slabs at the castle.
Actually did some stretching friday, saturday, sunday- flexibility definitely confirmed as one of my weaknesses.
Weight down to 82kg, ate exactly the same pre-planned diet, exactly 2500cals, Monday-Thursday. Removing the decision making and simplifying it completely worked wonders. I'm going to do exactly the same thing this week. (I will vary the diet when back from Italy in 2 weeks).
STG:
Do flexibility/mobility and core work mon-thursday this week
Don't die in Cogne from Friday (ie take it easy and build up slowly)
MTG:
Get below 80kg
Tick a 7a+/E1 Grit/E1 Limestone route.
Finalise training plan for March-June for Canada trip.
Maintenance/recovery week this week-
M: Rest day
T: 2 hours bouldering- felt awful having had 2 weeks off climbing without axey things.
W: 4 mile run
T: 1 hour light bouldering - mega forearm DOMS from Tuesday session.
F: 5 mile run, 2 hour coached session- really good to get some critique on my technique, have a few things to work on.
Sa: Rest day
Sun: 5 mile run, 2 hours working the slabs at the castle.
Actually did some stretching friday, saturday, sunday- flexibility definitely confirmed as one of my weaknesses.
Weight down to 82kg, ate exactly the same pre-planned diet, exactly 2500cals, Monday-Thursday. Removing the decision making and simplifying it completely worked wonders. I'm going to do exactly the same thing this week. (I will vary the diet when back from Italy in 2 weeks).
STG:
Do flexibility/mobility and core work mon-thursday this week
Don't die in Cogne from Friday (ie take it easy and build up slowly)
MTG:
Get below 80kg
Tick a 7a+/E1 Grit/E1 Limestone route.
Finalise training plan for March-June for Canada trip.
Post edited at 21:14
1
In reply to guy127917:
A double lap to try to soothe a grumpy baby and also a bit of a stroll along the beach yesterday.
Along with that I did a couple of rehab sessions and 2 weights sessions basically focusing on overhead press (owch - I appear not to have any of those muscles!) and deadlift (probably not enough weights in the house to seriously pursue this, but it is doing something currently).
I also went to the wall and did some trx work although if I'm honest there was a fair bit of social chitchat and baby showing-off.
I meant to hit the fingerboard but got sidetracked.
> AJM: How many pram laps this week? (Congrats btw!)
A double lap to try to soothe a grumpy baby and also a bit of a stroll along the beach yesterday.
Along with that I did a couple of rehab sessions and 2 weights sessions basically focusing on overhead press (owch - I appear not to have any of those muscles!) and deadlift (probably not enough weights in the house to seriously pursue this, but it is doing something currently).
I also went to the wall and did some trx work although if I'm honest there was a fair bit of social chitchat and baby showing-off.
I meant to hit the fingerboard but got sidetracked.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Welcome back and thanks Guy! The 5/5 repeaters I've now finished. I did them twice a week for 3/3.5 weeks but then this last week decided to change again. The simple answer is that I saw no improvement at all on the exercise itself over that period. The strongest session was 3 out of 7. However, I think there are too many variables for them to be easily measurable with repeaters (compared to max hangs, I find repeaters much more susceptible to eg humidity levels.) I'm hopeful that there has been some absolute benefit even if difficult to measure. I'm also bearing in mind that the longer term point of them wasn't to immediately get stronger, but to give myself better potential from a series of max hang sessions. I'm starting to do them now for 3-4 weeks (3 more from now) followed by a rest week before Font.
This last week was pretty good, I felt generally strong, elbow stayee quiet and I got another good tick. Weight management was good too in the week, but I lapsed a bit at the weekend.
2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):
- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible) [done Jerry's Traverse (f7B), Suavito (f7B), No match for climb id:61409]
- Tetris (f7C)
2017 early spring goals (by end of April):
- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband
M: Had a good fingerboard session, 4 10 second 2 arm max hangs up to +29.9kg off the 18mm edge, 4 10 second one arm max hangs off the good bm2000 pockets with front 3 with -5.7kg, and then something else I've forgotten. Interspersed with a TRX session: the standard shoulder workout I'm doing ie 4 sets of 5 rows and 5 reverse flys, followed by 4 sets of 5 IYWs.
T: Did another TRX session as per the one on Monday.
W: rest.
T: had a good 2 hour session at the Climbing Unit. Did another yellow (v6-9) and about 10 more blues (v5-7).
F: another TRX sessuon again.
S: rest.
S: 5 clouds. Tried No match for climb id:61409 for a while after warming up, got close but didn't quite manage it, then went down and worked on Tetris (f7C). Had got a bit cold, but I reworked my sequence for the bottom half and for the top half (Hard Arête (f7A+)) all pretty quickly. Had some trouble with the linking move between these sections as a foot hold that I used to use seems to have crumbled away Have got a different sequence that works now although it needs a couple of extra foot movements in a strenuous position. Hoping to be 'going for it' next weekend. After this we headed back up to Milky Buttons and I did it. Before the successful ascent I had one try where I actually had 2 fingers on the finishing hold but still fell off (it's a slab!) Couldn't believe it. Really good day out, nice to get some good conditions.
Injury catalogue: As per last week - nothing really to note this week, I think the elbow is improving, felt slightly tender after the wall but I think I stopped in time. No feelings from it at all on Tetris.
Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 3 lb.
Si
Welcome back and thanks Guy! The 5/5 repeaters I've now finished. I did them twice a week for 3/3.5 weeks but then this last week decided to change again. The simple answer is that I saw no improvement at all on the exercise itself over that period. The strongest session was 3 out of 7. However, I think there are too many variables for them to be easily measurable with repeaters (compared to max hangs, I find repeaters much more susceptible to eg humidity levels.) I'm hopeful that there has been some absolute benefit even if difficult to measure. I'm also bearing in mind that the longer term point of them wasn't to immediately get stronger, but to give myself better potential from a series of max hang sessions. I'm starting to do them now for 3-4 weeks (3 more from now) followed by a rest week before Font.
This last week was pretty good, I felt generally strong, elbow stayee quiet and I got another good tick. Weight management was good too in the week, but I lapsed a bit at the weekend.
2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):
- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible) [done Jerry's Traverse (f7B), Suavito (f7B), No match for climb id:61409]
- Tetris (f7C)
2017 early spring goals (by end of April):
- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband
M: Had a good fingerboard session, 4 10 second 2 arm max hangs up to +29.9kg off the 18mm edge, 4 10 second one arm max hangs off the good bm2000 pockets with front 3 with -5.7kg, and then something else I've forgotten. Interspersed with a TRX session: the standard shoulder workout I'm doing ie 4 sets of 5 rows and 5 reverse flys, followed by 4 sets of 5 IYWs.
T: Did another TRX session as per the one on Monday.
W: rest.
T: had a good 2 hour session at the Climbing Unit. Did another yellow (v6-9) and about 10 more blues (v5-7).
F: another TRX sessuon again.
S: rest.
S: 5 clouds. Tried No match for climb id:61409 for a while after warming up, got close but didn't quite manage it, then went down and worked on Tetris (f7C). Had got a bit cold, but I reworked my sequence for the bottom half and for the top half (Hard Arête (f7A+)) all pretty quickly. Had some trouble with the linking move between these sections as a foot hold that I used to use seems to have crumbled away Have got a different sequence that works now although it needs a couple of extra foot movements in a strenuous position. Hoping to be 'going for it' next weekend. After this we headed back up to Milky Buttons and I did it. Before the successful ascent I had one try where I actually had 2 fingers on the finishing hold but still fell off (it's a slab!) Couldn't believe it. Really good day out, nice to get some good conditions.
Injury catalogue: As per last week - nothing really to note this week, I think the elbow is improving, felt slightly tender after the wall but I think I stopped in time. No feelings from it at all on Tetris.
Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 3 lb.
Si
2
In reply to hms:
oops - forgot a fingerboard session. That was a short one on Friday after getting home from TCA. 7/3/6/3 on the tiny crimps, 6kg assist, 6 iterations. Skin quite shredded by the end.
oops - forgot a fingerboard session. That was a short one on Friday after getting home from TCA. 7/3/6/3 on the tiny crimps, 6kg assist, 6 iterations. Skin quite shredded by the end.
1
In reply to guy127917:
I've found the myfitnesspal app really good for this sort of thing. If you fill it in beforehand with planned main meals for the day, you know how kcal you've got spare (or haven't )
> Weight down to 82kg, ate exactly the same pre-planned diet, exactly 2500cals, Monday-Thursday. Removing the decision making and simplifying it completely worked wonders. I'm going to do exactly the same thing this week. (I will vary the diet when back from Italy in 2 weeks).
I've found the myfitnesspal app really good for this sort of thing. If you fill it in beforehand with planned main meals for the day, you know how kcal you've got spare (or haven't )
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy - I got back on Broken Trigger yesterday, but didn't have the oomph to get it done.
Week 6:
M - Depot. Warmed up on the ergo. 500m gentle, then 2km test; first 500 fast 24strokes/1:45, then steady and a semi-sprint finish for 7:21. Think I can go faster but it’ll be unpleasant! Boulder warm-up then 6c circuit followed by 6x white 7c/+ circuits with 3min rest (a couple of longer rests due to wall being busy). 6c & 6b warm-downs with 2x100 crunchies and 2x20 press-ups. Elbow aching again.
T - End of month deadlines meant much longer in work than planned, so ended up being a full rest day; zero, zilch, nada…
W - Re-hab breakfast. 2x20 14kg hammer curl eccentrics & 2x12 scapular pull-ups (+5kg). After work FoC in the garden. 90s warm-up, 5 min rest, then 6 sets to failure; 50% rest/work time. Brutal as always, but very encouraging as zero elbow grumbles. Data output less encouraging, 260s headline is certainly some way short of PB levels (320s pre-Chulilla Nov ’15). 2nd set 205s. Stretched whilst hunting YouTube for cave beta.
T - Rehab & conditioning:
- 12x scapular pull-ups +5kg (x2)
- 7x OHP@37kg (x3)
- 20x hammer curl eccentric @ 15.5kg (x2)
- 12x Deadlift @73kg (Hard! x3)
- 20x ab roll-out on rings (x2)
- 8x reverse fly (well hard!) into 20x horizontal row (x2)
- 10x ring Y’s – inside & out (x2)
- 30 calf raises & 30s bat-hang (x2)
- 30 Weighted sit-ups +10kg (x2)
F - DOMS! Butt, hamstrings, calves, shoulders, aghh, the struggle is real after leg day! 6x double circuits on 7a/+ territory to get some higher volume; effectively 4on/4off. 8min at 6a/b to warm-down, and a little bit of core and press-ups.
S - Calves still hurting, and 45km cycling with the lady obviously didn’t help!
S - Yep, still got calf DOMS! Cave, attempting Broken Trigger (with hoped for AF link) – but feeling a bit powerless. Eventually warmed up enough to have a couple of good goes, including a new high point matching the shot hole. Scoped out a couple of projects – need to go bolting soon…
Weight: 76.2 kg & 14.3% (think this might be a one off light day - I'd be happy to be at the same weight next week)
STG – end of Feb:
At least 4 further rehab sessions – eccentrics, armaid & nerve flossing/stretching to cement in the fix.
Stick to the plan; long an-cap & aero-power, then taper
Record FoC & Lattice benchmarks in same week before Chulilla trip
Cave RPs on Broken Trigger
MTG – end of Mar:
Deadlift 100kg (go use a proper gym!)
Stick to the plan: An-cap, aero-cap and strength gains.
LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or grit traverse?)
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
8b in Chulilla in Feb/Mar
8A/+ in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life (TICK) or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
Thanks Guy - I got back on Broken Trigger yesterday, but didn't have the oomph to get it done.
Week 6:
M - Depot. Warmed up on the ergo. 500m gentle, then 2km test; first 500 fast 24strokes/1:45, then steady and a semi-sprint finish for 7:21. Think I can go faster but it’ll be unpleasant! Boulder warm-up then 6c circuit followed by 6x white 7c/+ circuits with 3min rest (a couple of longer rests due to wall being busy). 6c & 6b warm-downs with 2x100 crunchies and 2x20 press-ups. Elbow aching again.
T - End of month deadlines meant much longer in work than planned, so ended up being a full rest day; zero, zilch, nada…
W - Re-hab breakfast. 2x20 14kg hammer curl eccentrics & 2x12 scapular pull-ups (+5kg). After work FoC in the garden. 90s warm-up, 5 min rest, then 6 sets to failure; 50% rest/work time. Brutal as always, but very encouraging as zero elbow grumbles. Data output less encouraging, 260s headline is certainly some way short of PB levels (320s pre-Chulilla Nov ’15). 2nd set 205s. Stretched whilst hunting YouTube for cave beta.
T - Rehab & conditioning:
- 12x scapular pull-ups +5kg (x2)
- 7x OHP@37kg (x3)
- 20x hammer curl eccentric @ 15.5kg (x2)
- 12x Deadlift @73kg (Hard! x3)
- 20x ab roll-out on rings (x2)
- 8x reverse fly (well hard!) into 20x horizontal row (x2)
- 10x ring Y’s – inside & out (x2)
- 30 calf raises & 30s bat-hang (x2)
- 30 Weighted sit-ups +10kg (x2)
F - DOMS! Butt, hamstrings, calves, shoulders, aghh, the struggle is real after leg day! 6x double circuits on 7a/+ territory to get some higher volume; effectively 4on/4off. 8min at 6a/b to warm-down, and a little bit of core and press-ups.
S - Calves still hurting, and 45km cycling with the lady obviously didn’t help!
S - Yep, still got calf DOMS! Cave, attempting Broken Trigger (with hoped for AF link) – but feeling a bit powerless. Eventually warmed up enough to have a couple of good goes, including a new high point matching the shot hole. Scoped out a couple of projects – need to go bolting soon…
Weight: 76.2 kg & 14.3% (think this might be a one off light day - I'd be happy to be at the same weight next week)
STG – end of Feb:
At least 4 further rehab sessions – eccentrics, armaid & nerve flossing/stretching to cement in the fix.
Stick to the plan; long an-cap & aero-power, then taper
Record FoC & Lattice benchmarks in same week before Chulilla trip
Cave RPs on Broken Trigger
MTG – end of Mar:
Deadlift 100kg (go use a proper gym!)
Stick to the plan: An-cap, aero-cap and strength gains.
LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or grit traverse?)
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
8b in Chulilla in Feb/Mar
8A/+ in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life (TICK) or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
In reply to Si dH:
Totally agree, that was what I did. I like the way it breaks down macros for you etc.
Totally agree, that was what I did. I like the way it breaks down macros for you etc.
In reply to guy127917:
Slow start to the week but ended up with a good couple of runs towards the end. Week went as follows;
Monday, 2km swim. 35 minutes so a good time for me.
Tuesday, 1 km swim. 16.30 so a new PB for the distance
Wednesday, 1km swim, 17 minutes. Cycle home, 17.2 km until the the chain snapped. Not happy as the bike is only 8 months old.
Thursday, got a new chain on the bike. Evans cycles tried to tell me it was natural wear and tear. Was not having a bit of it and got it replaced for free. 2km in the pool at lunch time and a 9.8km run in the evening whilst the eldest was swimming.
Friday, a very pleasant 15km cycle in to work early doors, 1km in the pool at lunch and a wet and windy 26.5km ride home.
Saturday, rest, rugby and beer!
Sunday, morning run. 10.4 km over muddy trails. 1 hour 4 minutes.
On going goals are to keep up the amount of exercise with the combined total each week being at least 6 hours worth. Get some longer cycles in, either extending the commute home or going out at the weekend. Continue to drop the weight. Goal is to get to 15 stone and see how i look then. Find time to go climbing which is the hard part as I have 3 daughters who all go swimming as well as going to brownies and rainbows in addition to the wife who likes to go out running too.
Going to enter a sprint tri so 400m swim, 20k on the bike and 5km run so need to start putting the components together at some point.
Slow start to the week but ended up with a good couple of runs towards the end. Week went as follows;
Monday, 2km swim. 35 minutes so a good time for me.
Tuesday, 1 km swim. 16.30 so a new PB for the distance
Wednesday, 1km swim, 17 minutes. Cycle home, 17.2 km until the the chain snapped. Not happy as the bike is only 8 months old.
Thursday, got a new chain on the bike. Evans cycles tried to tell me it was natural wear and tear. Was not having a bit of it and got it replaced for free. 2km in the pool at lunch time and a 9.8km run in the evening whilst the eldest was swimming.
Friday, a very pleasant 15km cycle in to work early doors, 1km in the pool at lunch and a wet and windy 26.5km ride home.
Saturday, rest, rugby and beer!
Sunday, morning run. 10.4 km over muddy trails. 1 hour 4 minutes.
On going goals are to keep up the amount of exercise with the combined total each week being at least 6 hours worth. Get some longer cycles in, either extending the commute home or going out at the weekend. Continue to drop the weight. Goal is to get to 15 stone and see how i look then. Find time to go climbing which is the hard part as I have 3 daughters who all go swimming as well as going to brownies and rainbows in addition to the wife who likes to go out running too.
Going to enter a sprint tri so 400m swim, 20k on the bike and 5km run so need to start putting the components together at some point.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Ditto.
My transition week was pretty restful.
M: rest
Tu: 2hrs bouldering - wasn't feeling very strong and took me a while to get back into it. Working on some V2/V3's which seemed to have me stuck.
W: 3.8 mile run. Gym - Pull-ups (8, 7, 5, 3.5). Working on front-levers and not really sure the best way to do this. Trying to raise up as much as possible to engage muscles but can only manage a little lift with bent arms. Leg raises, squats (60kg) and bench press 45kg (4x4)
Th: rest
Fri: 5 mile run
Sat: Rest
Sun: 4.8 mile run. 3 hrs bouldering. Working V3/V4 and V4-6 circuit. Felt much more confident on my feet. Really focusing on technique rather than arm strength. Working on slabs to get my nerve back. Top-rope 6c slab route. After 3/4 goes I already felt far better about technique and more confident.
Cogne next week so this week will be another transition before training begins again on 20 Feb. Focused mainly on technique and bouldering this week.
Going forward: work on technique, not relying on arm strength. Get advice for front lever progress and focus on core and legs. Slab work to get me using my feet again and re-programme my head. Possibly another training session at the end of Feb to re-assess where I am and set some goals.
Weight 63.9kgs
STG: Training plan for 20 Feb. Work on technique, confidence, slabs and core
MTG: 7a indoors, V4 boulder problems - consistently
LTG: Lead 7a sport, VS trad (head game). Be more positive and less comparative in my climbing. Lose 3kgs.
Thanks Guy. Ditto.
My transition week was pretty restful.
M: rest
Tu: 2hrs bouldering - wasn't feeling very strong and took me a while to get back into it. Working on some V2/V3's which seemed to have me stuck.
W: 3.8 mile run. Gym - Pull-ups (8, 7, 5, 3.5). Working on front-levers and not really sure the best way to do this. Trying to raise up as much as possible to engage muscles but can only manage a little lift with bent arms. Leg raises, squats (60kg) and bench press 45kg (4x4)
Th: rest
Fri: 5 mile run
Sat: Rest
Sun: 4.8 mile run. 3 hrs bouldering. Working V3/V4 and V4-6 circuit. Felt much more confident on my feet. Really focusing on technique rather than arm strength. Working on slabs to get my nerve back. Top-rope 6c slab route. After 3/4 goes I already felt far better about technique and more confident.
Cogne next week so this week will be another transition before training begins again on 20 Feb. Focused mainly on technique and bouldering this week.
Going forward: work on technique, not relying on arm strength. Get advice for front lever progress and focus on core and legs. Slab work to get me using my feet again and re-programme my head. Possibly another training session at the end of Feb to re-assess where I am and set some goals.
Weight 63.9kgs
STG: Training plan for 20 Feb. Work on technique, confidence, slabs and core
MTG: 7a indoors, V4 boulder problems - consistently
LTG: Lead 7a sport, VS trad (head game). Be more positive and less comparative in my climbing. Lose 3kgs.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy, no worries about filling in, you are doing a great job on the stats, well written and well thought out.
Ok, so straight down to business, Wednesday was Lattice day. I met Ollie at The Foundry, what a thoroughly nice chap he is, and incredibly knowledgeable too, especially in terms of physiology, movement and body position. He picked apart my technique in seconds! The Foundry was pretty cool too, I've not been before.
My training has been aimed around improving the aerobic end of my fitness, so when we tested my finger strength, the target was just to have maintained it. Well I managed a little better than that, my old score was +3kg, this time I managed +4kg although I think it's an average because I did even more than that on my right hand. This is fantastic, even more so when you consider I was strangely weighing 2kg heavy that day, so I pulled 71kg total, which would be +6kg at my fighting weight. Also, I'm reasonably sure I did my first assessment on the old test edge which apparently is on average 3.5kg easier than the new edge, so my score may be a 4.5kg improvement over last time. Either way, it's goodbye 8c fingers, hello 8c+ fingers!
Last time my max moves score was 56, I've made a bit of progress there too, this time I got 107! This has roughly doubled my aerobic efficiency to 64, which is, and I quote Ollie: "the biggest jump whilst maintaining finger strength I have seen in such a short time"
I'm incredibly pleased with this, as this was what the training has been all about, to see such a good improvement is incredibly encouraging.
My decay curve was still relatively steep, but that is usual for a peak phase which is where I currently am, it still levelled off at over double the number of moves as last time, I also nearly beat my old max moves score on the 3rd rep! Ridiculous.
These aerobic scores are up around the 8c level too, which has brought it much closer in line with my finger strength score. On paper, I now have zero excuses for not getting some big ticks on real rock, but of course 'on paper' and 'on rock' are two very different things.
Ollie observed that I'm still heavily favouring my biceps instead of spreading the effort by engaging my shoulders and core, so I'm likely to tire much more quickly on rock. My foot positioning and movement is still not brilliant (although my pacing is much better), so these areas of technique will hold back my ultimate ability to hit the big grades. I'll be interrogating both Tom and Ollie about this in Spain next week, to make sure I glean as much info as possible about how to work on this going forward.
Overall, I couldn't really have asked for a better result, I think there is still more in the tank, more improvement to be had, hopefully this is just the start of some big things!
The rest of the week was a bit of a washout to be honest, I think due to the controlled nature of the testing, I felt confident to try *really* hard, and it took it's toll, I had some tender fingers for a couple of days which was a bit worrying, so I had an easy few days but all seems well now. I did doubles at 7b+ (soft, only really 7b) yesterday and everything felt good, I was worried that I had broken myself before Spain whilst testing to see how fit I was!
That said, I'm sat here right now typing with a sore neck, it just started hurting while I was sat here this morning, hopefully that will sort itself out by the end of the week!
Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for 1st Feb, hoping for 100 moves max - MEGA TICK
Re-instate some handstand press-ups - FAIL
All sessions on plan and no off-piste hard bouldering - HALF FAIL
Maybe try to get this pesky Warwick 7c clean before it gets taken down - FAIL
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
Just go steady in run up to Spain
MTG: (next few months)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
8a on Lattice Trip in Feb
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays (already got Lattice trip in Feb and Margalef in April so this ones in the bag)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
> DanDan: Thanks for doing the stats the last couple of weeks. We are looking forward to hearing the details of your results, and maybe your key takeaways from the last phase of training?
Thanks Guy, no worries about filling in, you are doing a great job on the stats, well written and well thought out.
Ok, so straight down to business, Wednesday was Lattice day. I met Ollie at The Foundry, what a thoroughly nice chap he is, and incredibly knowledgeable too, especially in terms of physiology, movement and body position. He picked apart my technique in seconds! The Foundry was pretty cool too, I've not been before.
My training has been aimed around improving the aerobic end of my fitness, so when we tested my finger strength, the target was just to have maintained it. Well I managed a little better than that, my old score was +3kg, this time I managed +4kg although I think it's an average because I did even more than that on my right hand. This is fantastic, even more so when you consider I was strangely weighing 2kg heavy that day, so I pulled 71kg total, which would be +6kg at my fighting weight. Also, I'm reasonably sure I did my first assessment on the old test edge which apparently is on average 3.5kg easier than the new edge, so my score may be a 4.5kg improvement over last time. Either way, it's goodbye 8c fingers, hello 8c+ fingers!
Last time my max moves score was 56, I've made a bit of progress there too, this time I got 107! This has roughly doubled my aerobic efficiency to 64, which is, and I quote Ollie: "the biggest jump whilst maintaining finger strength I have seen in such a short time"
I'm incredibly pleased with this, as this was what the training has been all about, to see such a good improvement is incredibly encouraging.
My decay curve was still relatively steep, but that is usual for a peak phase which is where I currently am, it still levelled off at over double the number of moves as last time, I also nearly beat my old max moves score on the 3rd rep! Ridiculous.
These aerobic scores are up around the 8c level too, which has brought it much closer in line with my finger strength score. On paper, I now have zero excuses for not getting some big ticks on real rock, but of course 'on paper' and 'on rock' are two very different things.
Ollie observed that I'm still heavily favouring my biceps instead of spreading the effort by engaging my shoulders and core, so I'm likely to tire much more quickly on rock. My foot positioning and movement is still not brilliant (although my pacing is much better), so these areas of technique will hold back my ultimate ability to hit the big grades. I'll be interrogating both Tom and Ollie about this in Spain next week, to make sure I glean as much info as possible about how to work on this going forward.
Overall, I couldn't really have asked for a better result, I think there is still more in the tank, more improvement to be had, hopefully this is just the start of some big things!
The rest of the week was a bit of a washout to be honest, I think due to the controlled nature of the testing, I felt confident to try *really* hard, and it took it's toll, I had some tender fingers for a couple of days which was a bit worrying, so I had an easy few days but all seems well now. I did doubles at 7b+ (soft, only really 7b) yesterday and everything felt good, I was worried that I had broken myself before Spain whilst testing to see how fit I was!
That said, I'm sat here right now typing with a sore neck, it just started hurting while I was sat here this morning, hopefully that will sort itself out by the end of the week!
Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for 1st Feb, hoping for 100 moves max - MEGA TICK
Re-instate some handstand press-ups - FAIL
All sessions on plan and no off-piste hard bouldering - HALF FAIL
Maybe try to get this pesky Warwick 7c clean before it gets taken down - FAIL
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
Just go steady in run up to Spain
MTG: (next few months)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
8a on Lattice Trip in Feb
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays (already got Lattice trip in Feb and Margalef in April so this ones in the bag)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
2
In reply to guy127917:
Forgot to add, tried out a new boulder centre in Solihull on Thursday, Flash Climbing. I was only mooching about because I felt broken, so didn't get on anything steep and hard, but their slab grades were crazy, I'm not much of a flat wall climber but I couldn't get up any of their V4's on the slab, half of them I could barely get off the floor! Made for a disappointing session, will have to return when I'm feeling a bit healthier to see if it was me or the grades. Also will wait until they've finished building the thing, charging full price for entry to a half-finished centre seemed a little off.
I saw this morning on Facebook that they have reset the slab already, they've only been open 9 days, what's that about?
Forgot to add, tried out a new boulder centre in Solihull on Thursday, Flash Climbing. I was only mooching about because I felt broken, so didn't get on anything steep and hard, but their slab grades were crazy, I'm not much of a flat wall climber but I couldn't get up any of their V4's on the slab, half of them I could barely get off the floor! Made for a disappointing session, will have to return when I'm feeling a bit healthier to see if it was me or the grades. Also will wait until they've finished building the thing, charging full price for entry to a half-finished centre seemed a little off.
I saw this morning on Facebook that they have reset the slab already, they've only been open 9 days, what's that about?
In reply to Dandan:
BOOM!
Double tap - BOOM BOOM!
I think is a forgone conclusion!
- I recommend Mishi (8a), Trio Ternura (8a) & Pegue Nocturno (8a) for starters...
You can probably flash Red Bull L1 (7c+) at Oliana too - don't get too intimidated by the grade...
> Either way, it's goodbye 8c fingers, hello 8c+ fingers!
BOOM!
> Last time was 56; this time I got 107! I quote Ollie: "the biggest jump whilst maintaining finger strength I have seen in such a short time"
Double tap - BOOM BOOM!
> 8a on Lattice Trip in Feb
I think is a forgone conclusion!
- I recommend Mishi (8a), Trio Ternura (8a) & Pegue Nocturno (8a) for starters...
You can probably flash Red Bull L1 (7c+) at Oliana too - don't get too intimidated by the grade...
1
In reply to Dandan:
I'm glad it's not just me - I was a good couple of kg shy when I tried to test on the new edge!
Big efforts Dan, well done!
> old test edge which apparently is on average 3.5kg easier than the new edge
I'm glad it's not just me - I was a good couple of kg shy when I tried to test on the new edge!
Big efforts Dan, well done!
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. Not weighed myself but i'm 'feeling' lighter. Cycling sorts out my extra flab and also helps with my hip issues. I'm studying physio - but no I can't diagnose or offer any treatments
I only biked once this week as I only had one proper day in uni this week. I took full advantage of that and had two climbing sessions.
Had a routes session at the wall. 5+, 6a+, 6b+ 6b, 6b+, 6c (fail on the 6c) 6c (fail) 5+, 5+. Done in triples. Noteable huge drop in fitness but no surprise there. My head felt OK but just no stamina.
Also went to Parisella's the day after. Nothing successfully done but some progress made. Again it was noteable I couldn't have as many goes as normal. I had a proper rest before having a send go but still hadn't recovered and never got back from that. I got a good talking too as well about whether i'm really trying or just putting fitting climbing in into the too hard to do box.
So I've got some psych back from being outside again and am determined to get back on it.
Results back from The Depot 2nd round put me in 4th. If i'd not dropped the unnecessary 12 points that I did, through carrying on when tired, i'd have come second (though a long way behind the leader). That's also given me a bit of a boost so i'm feeling more motivated to squeeze what I can in instead of thinking 'Meh!'. Aerobic fitness is going to be key to get more volume in and recover better. Also the final depot round is just one evening to do 30 problems. I'd be knackered trying that now.
Cheers Guy. Not weighed myself but i'm 'feeling' lighter. Cycling sorts out my extra flab and also helps with my hip issues. I'm studying physio - but no I can't diagnose or offer any treatments
I only biked once this week as I only had one proper day in uni this week. I took full advantage of that and had two climbing sessions.
Had a routes session at the wall. 5+, 6a+, 6b+ 6b, 6b+, 6c (fail on the 6c) 6c (fail) 5+, 5+. Done in triples. Noteable huge drop in fitness but no surprise there. My head felt OK but just no stamina.
Also went to Parisella's the day after. Nothing successfully done but some progress made. Again it was noteable I couldn't have as many goes as normal. I had a proper rest before having a send go but still hadn't recovered and never got back from that. I got a good talking too as well about whether i'm really trying or just putting fitting climbing in into the too hard to do box.
So I've got some psych back from being outside again and am determined to get back on it.
Results back from The Depot 2nd round put me in 4th. If i'd not dropped the unnecessary 12 points that I did, through carrying on when tired, i'd have come second (though a long way behind the leader). That's also given me a bit of a boost so i'm feeling more motivated to squeeze what I can in instead of thinking 'Meh!'. Aerobic fitness is going to be key to get more volume in and recover better. Also the final depot round is just one evening to do 30 problems. I'd be knackered trying that now.
Post edited at 13:46
2
In reply to AJM:
Just doing it now and thought I'd share the yyfy with FC a bit early because in a nerdy way it's very exciting.
Thought after my bout of back 3 hangs I would get on the bm2k little crimps. Assumed a bit of a breaking in session maybe rather than any great gains. But I've broken the 90.3kg pb for a "count of 10" (actually about 15s) to get to 93.0 by the skin of my teeth! Pretty chuffed with that!
Then I had a token play on the 35 slopers. Now mock me if you will but on my board I've never yet been able to hang these (broken in wall ones, fine, but not at home). And suddenly from nowhere I'm hanging (again skin of the teeth) "count of 10" at 84.0!
Whatever I've been doing, something is coming through right 95kg and 85kg respectively as STGs?
I might have to get back on the test edge soon!
> I meant to hit the fingerboard but got sidetracked
Just doing it now and thought I'd share the yyfy with FC a bit early because in a nerdy way it's very exciting.
Thought after my bout of back 3 hangs I would get on the bm2k little crimps. Assumed a bit of a breaking in session maybe rather than any great gains. But I've broken the 90.3kg pb for a "count of 10" (actually about 15s) to get to 93.0 by the skin of my teeth! Pretty chuffed with that!
Then I had a token play on the 35 slopers. Now mock me if you will but on my board I've never yet been able to hang these (broken in wall ones, fine, but not at home). And suddenly from nowhere I'm hanging (again skin of the teeth) "count of 10" at 84.0!
Whatever I've been doing, something is coming through right 95kg and 85kg respectively as STGs?
I might have to get back on the test edge soon!
2
In reply to AJM:
Consider yourself mocked!
But seriously, good effort on the small crimps. Is that about bw + 20?
Had a good session here tonight too, did some6-8 second max hangs on the 20mm edge at bw - 6kg, despite bw being 2 kg up on 3 days ago, pretty happy with that. And could do bw - 3 kg with a 3 finger drag on the good bm2000 pockets.
> !Then I had a token play on the 35 slopers. Now mock me if you will but on my board I've never yet been able to hang these (broken in wall ones, fine, but not at home).
Consider yourself mocked!
But seriously, good effort on the small crimps. Is that about bw + 20?
Had a good session here tonight too, did some6-8 second max hangs on the 20mm edge at bw - 6kg, despite bw being 2 kg up on 3 days ago, pretty happy with that. And could do bw - 3 kg with a 3 finger drag on the good bm2000 pockets.
Post edited at 23:12
In reply to Si dH:
I was most surprised to go from nowhere to adding a whole chunk of weight (bw+9 or so), so I'll take the mockery and keep grinning
Post dinner weigh in (immediately before starting) was 74.7 in my clothes, so about bw+18 on that, maybe bw+20 or a little more on morning weigh-in at fighting weight.
What % bw is that for you - guessing it's pushing to mid-90s? (4kg assist on a weight of just over 70kg?)
I was most surprised to go from nowhere to adding a whole chunk of weight (bw+9 or so), so I'll take the mockery and keep grinning
Post dinner weigh in (immediately before starting) was 74.7 in my clothes, so about bw+18 on that, maybe bw+20 or a little more on morning weigh-in at fighting weight.
What % bw is that for you - guessing it's pushing to mid-90s? (4kg assist on a weight of just over 70kg?)
In reply to AJM:
Bw was 72 last night, probably 73-74 with clothes, that needed 6 kg assist for 6-8 seconds on the edge half crimp. ~93%
Bw was 72 last night, probably 73-74 with clothes, that needed 6 kg assist for 6-8 seconds on the edge half crimp. ~93%
Post edited at 08:50
In reply to guy127917:
Going to throw my hat into the FC ring...
STG (This Month)
• RP the yellow 7a
• One of the two green 6C+s, that feel almost doable.
• Take at least one bolt skipped fall at the wall every route session (2 a week).
• Improve at the next Steve Maisch max hang assessment session. (9th Feb).
MTG (2-3 Months)
• Get on a 6c O/S in Sicily and try hard, climb well. Do it, or fall off trying.
• Bolt to bolt a 7a in Sicily.
• Start working local 7a. Maybe Quicksilver?
• Get cracking on some more E2s.
• Take a two bolt skipped fall at the wall...
LTG (This Year)
• 30 x high end E2s
• Then 10 x low E3s. Begin to feel confidence and flow on E3 territory.
• Decent links on a 7a+. Axle Attack?
M - Wall routes session - 45 mins warm up O/Sing up to 6b. Then 3 goes at the yellow 7a. Consistently up to crux now, then consistently through crux after short rest. I think this was the 2nd session trying it, so getting there.
T - Lunchtime: 4 x 10 Feet raised push ups
Evening - 30 min yoga stretching
W - Lunch: 4 x (2x30 Sec - Star Plank)
Evening: Wall - Bouldering. Trying some harder problems. Managed a 6C. There a couple of 6C+s, that are hard but feel doable. So will concentrate on them next time I go.
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: Sandbag Strength workout - 3 x 3s - 4 min rests. 17.5kg bag (Rotational Lunge / Power Clean / Pull Ups / Military Press) First time doing something like this, so been adding weight slowly. 20kg next week.
Steve Maisch Max Hang Fingerboard. Wk 4 - 6 sets (1 Hang x 10 seconds - 3 min rest). Half Crimp 22mm +1kg
F - Rest
S - Wall Routes session. Up to 6b+ O/S to warm up. Then trying yellow 7a. 3 attempts. 1st go through to bolt after crux. Rest, then through to top. 2nd go up to penultimate bolt, then messed up my feet and fell going for last hard move. Reworked that section. 3rd go powered out 2/3rds up, not long enough rest I think. Should get it next time...
S - 30 min You Tube HIIT cardio and core workout.
Going to throw my hat into the FC ring...
STG (This Month)
• RP the yellow 7a
• One of the two green 6C+s, that feel almost doable.
• Take at least one bolt skipped fall at the wall every route session (2 a week).
• Improve at the next Steve Maisch max hang assessment session. (9th Feb).
MTG (2-3 Months)
• Get on a 6c O/S in Sicily and try hard, climb well. Do it, or fall off trying.
• Bolt to bolt a 7a in Sicily.
• Start working local 7a. Maybe Quicksilver?
• Get cracking on some more E2s.
• Take a two bolt skipped fall at the wall...
LTG (This Year)
• 30 x high end E2s
• Then 10 x low E3s. Begin to feel confidence and flow on E3 territory.
• Decent links on a 7a+. Axle Attack?
M - Wall routes session - 45 mins warm up O/Sing up to 6b. Then 3 goes at the yellow 7a. Consistently up to crux now, then consistently through crux after short rest. I think this was the 2nd session trying it, so getting there.
T - Lunchtime: 4 x 10 Feet raised push ups
Evening - 30 min yoga stretching
W - Lunch: 4 x (2x30 Sec - Star Plank)
Evening: Wall - Bouldering. Trying some harder problems. Managed a 6C. There a couple of 6C+s, that are hard but feel doable. So will concentrate on them next time I go.
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: Sandbag Strength workout - 3 x 3s - 4 min rests. 17.5kg bag (Rotational Lunge / Power Clean / Pull Ups / Military Press) First time doing something like this, so been adding weight slowly. 20kg next week.
Steve Maisch Max Hang Fingerboard. Wk 4 - 6 sets (1 Hang x 10 seconds - 3 min rest). Half Crimp 22mm +1kg
F - Rest
S - Wall Routes session. Up to 6b+ O/S to warm up. Then trying yellow 7a. 3 attempts. 1st go through to bolt after crux. Rest, then through to top. 2nd go up to penultimate bolt, then messed up my feet and fell going for last hard move. Reworked that section. 3rd go powered out 2/3rds up, not long enough rest I think. Should get it next time...
S - 30 min You Tube HIIT cardio and core workout.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
I do like to get out to the mountains as often as I can. This weekend though I had a trip planned to north wales but on Friday I had a bomb shell dropped on me so had to sot that out all weekend so m trip went away and I'm gutted looking at some of the photos. Head up though Scotland this weekend so its not all bad
My mid term goals by the end of march are not looking likely now but I need to shift my focus as I'm off to the alps in July to do the Grossglockner and Piz Bernina so need to focus on more hill walking/scrambling and just look to maintain my rock climbing until then. Hopefully though by the end of the summer I would of led an e1 (Hopefully it will be The Trip (E1 5b))
Training wise it has been a poor week for m with no cardio at all. I did put in 3 short climbing sessions though
M - Bouldering
T - nothing
W - Boudering - starting to nail the v3 - v4 circuit now. Only 2 problems left I need to complete.
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Playing around o he 6c on the auto belay. Got to the last move twice and fell off so I think if I will get it next time
S - Nothing
Weight - still 79kg so that is a bonus
Happy training
Lee
Thanks Guy
I do like to get out to the mountains as often as I can. This weekend though I had a trip planned to north wales but on Friday I had a bomb shell dropped on me so had to sot that out all weekend so m trip went away and I'm gutted looking at some of the photos. Head up though Scotland this weekend so its not all bad
My mid term goals by the end of march are not looking likely now but I need to shift my focus as I'm off to the alps in July to do the Grossglockner and Piz Bernina so need to focus on more hill walking/scrambling and just look to maintain my rock climbing until then. Hopefully though by the end of the summer I would of led an e1 (Hopefully it will be The Trip (E1 5b))
Training wise it has been a poor week for m with no cardio at all. I did put in 3 short climbing sessions though
M - Bouldering
T - nothing
W - Boudering - starting to nail the v3 - v4 circuit now. Only 2 problems left I need to complete.
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Playing around o he 6c on the auto belay. Got to the last move twice and fell off so I think if I will get it next time
S - Nothing
Weight - still 79kg so that is a bonus
Happy training
Lee
Post edited at 17:25
In reply to AJM:
Wowzers is that 93kg combined total with bodyweight or added extra to body weight? Could never get past 50kg extra added to bodyweight
> Just doing it now and thought I'd share the yyfy with FC a bit early because in a nerdy way it's very exciting. Thought after my bout of back 3 hangs I would get on the bm2k little crimps. Assumed a bit of a breaking in session maybe rather than any great gains. But I've broken the 90.3kg pb for a "count of 10" (actually about 15s) to get to 93.0 by the skin of my teeth!!
Wowzers is that 93kg combined total with bodyweight or added extra to body weight? Could never get past 50kg extra added to bodyweight
In reply to alx:
93kg of weight - bodyweight plus 18kg or so. I track everything as total weight hung because it strips out any distortion from me gaining or losing weight and focuses in on what my fingers can pull...
Bw+50kg on those little crimps is crazy!
93kg of weight - bodyweight plus 18kg or so. I track everything as total weight hung because it strips out any distortion from me gaining or losing weight and focuses in on what my fingers can pull...
Bw+50kg on those little crimps is crazy!
In reply to AJM:
Beast! Work the shoulders, if your not already doing it do weighted deadhangs off a bar and pull your shoulder blades back and down, 10 reps, 3 sets, don't wait for your fingers to be strong enough to strengthen them. If your fingers leapt ahead in strength it's perhaps your shoulder girdle and you screwing up your face to keep things together that's probably keeping you from going higher.
I have been bouldering for 11yrs so fingers have had a chance to toughen up a bit before I started training three years ago.
Beast! Work the shoulders, if your not already doing it do weighted deadhangs off a bar and pull your shoulder blades back and down, 10 reps, 3 sets, don't wait for your fingers to be strong enough to strengthen them. If your fingers leapt ahead in strength it's perhaps your shoulder girdle and you screwing up your face to keep things together that's probably keeping you from going higher.
I have been bouldering for 11yrs so fingers have had a chance to toughen up a bit before I started training three years ago.
In reply to AJM:
Intriguing use of long seconds! I suspect we're very similar strength on those little BM2K edges; I'm +20kg (96kg) for a proper 10s hang; 15s would be desperate!
Some more data geekery from me:
YYFY for a new an-cap PB - even starting to exceed the "moderately well trained" threshold TomPR gave me a coupe of years back
Double YYFY - data geekery in both work & coaching capacities are looking out just fine
Celebratory Affligem has been opened - 8.5% Cuvee Tripel I know AJM would appreciate!
Intriguing use of long seconds! I suspect we're very similar strength on those little BM2K edges; I'm +20kg (96kg) for a proper 10s hang; 15s would be desperate!
Some more data geekery from me:
YYFY for a new an-cap PB - even starting to exceed the "moderately well trained" threshold TomPR gave me a coupe of years back
Double YYFY - data geekery in both work & coaching capacities are looking out just fine
Celebratory Affligem has been opened - 8.5% Cuvee Tripel I know AJM would appreciate!
2
In reply to guy127917:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 10lbs
M - Rest
T - Indoor routes - harder routes
W - Rest
T - Rest
S - Rest
S - 4k run
The diet is going much better now. Hopefully once I've tweaked it so it's right, I'll start steadily loosing a lb or two a week. Aiming for three sessions and a run next week. Maybe go hillwalking as well if possible.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 10lbs
M - Rest
T - Indoor routes - harder routes
W - Rest
T - Rest
S - Rest
S - 4k run
The diet is going much better now. Hopefully once I've tweaked it so it's right, I'll start steadily loosing a lb or two a week. Aiming for three sessions and a run next week. Maybe go hillwalking as well if possible.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Yeah. I didn't realise they were quite so far out til recently. But I don't usually have Ali on hand to time and I like to ease into the hang at my own pace so doing it off an interval timer has less appeal so self counting seems easiest. And besides, that's what half my benchmarks are on now!
Very jealous!
> Intriguing use of long seconds! I suspect we're very similar strength on those little BM2K edges; I'm +20kg (96kg) for a proper 10s hang; 15s would be desperate!
Yeah. I didn't realise they were quite so far out til recently. But I don't usually have Ali on hand to time and I like to ease into the hang at my own pace so doing it off an interval timer has less appeal so self counting seems easiest. And besides, that's what half my benchmarks are on now!
> Celebratory Affligem has been opened - 8.5% Cuvee Tripel I know AJM would appreciate
Very jealous!
1
In reply to alx:
Yes, hitting the shoulders and other areas of weakness is definitely one of the priorities for this phase. Could definitely benefit from stronger shoulder support for better form on one arm assisted work etc. Thanks
I did notice actually for the sloper hangs I was very conscious of pulling the shoulders in and down in that hang.
Yes, hitting the shoulders and other areas of weakness is definitely one of the priorities for this phase. Could definitely benefit from stronger shoulder support for better form on one arm assisted work etc. Thanks
I did notice actually for the sloper hangs I was very conscious of pulling the shoulders in and down in that hang.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Good thoughts on the HR monitor. I've not used one since I first started running in 2003 or so, I tend to just head out, hit my preferred pace and stay there. So more investigation there, but it will need to wait as this week was a total clusterf*ck from the Fit Club point of view. All I got done was a run home from work that cemented my opinion that my calf is injured so I need to lay off the running for a few weeks and get some medical help. The rest of the week was taken up preparing for then having a Chinese New Year Party. On the positive side I made veggie curry puffs for the first time ever and they were fantastic (think mini curry veggie cornish pastie), on the negative I didn't get any fitness done. A proper post next week.
Thanks Guy. Good thoughts on the HR monitor. I've not used one since I first started running in 2003 or so, I tend to just head out, hit my preferred pace and stay there. So more investigation there, but it will need to wait as this week was a total clusterf*ck from the Fit Club point of view. All I got done was a run home from work that cemented my opinion that my calf is injured so I need to lay off the running for a few weeks and get some medical help. The rest of the week was taken up preparing for then having a Chinese New Year Party. On the positive side I made veggie curry puffs for the first time ever and they were fantastic (think mini curry veggie cornish pastie), on the negative I didn't get any fitness done. A proper post next week.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Late post for me. Last week was pretty terrible, I felt better at the start and thought that I'd be back to normal in a few days. I was wrong. It took me the rest of the week to recover. I did two boulder sessions and one pilates, but didn't have the energy to train.
But, I'm feeling fine now and this week is going better.
January training has been a disaster, so I'm pretty much starting again. I'll be much more positive next week as so far this week has been going much better.
Tony
Late post for me. Last week was pretty terrible, I felt better at the start and thought that I'd be back to normal in a few days. I was wrong. It took me the rest of the week to recover. I did two boulder sessions and one pilates, but didn't have the energy to train.
But, I'm feeling fine now and this week is going better.
January training has been a disaster, so I'm pretty much starting again. I'll be much more positive next week as so far this week has been going much better.
Tony
2
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