UKC

I am looking for a partner to go to Chamonix this September to accend Mont Blanc via the Gouter route. I have done grade 2/3 scrambles in the UK but my experience is limited. I have my own equipment and I can obtain a return bus ticket for £127 for myself and one other. I am looking for someone with similar experience to me or even better more experience than myself. Please contact me on my e mail jmcinulty23@gmail.com if anyone wishes to go on an adventure for little amount of money.
I look forward to hearing from you 😁🗻

In reply to Jaymac23:

From your OP it does sound a bit like you are after a guide - they will be more experienced and be better able to help.

The Gouter route is an "easier" route, but is still a big step up from some grade 2/3 scrambles in the UK. Maybe use September as a chance to recce the area, get out an about on some easier routes to get a feel for the Alps - it can be overwhelming at first (and then even worse with a bit of altitude)

There are some good blogs on peoples preparation that could be worth a google.



I can't quite work out if this is a wind up, but that might be just my cynicism.

Juan

In reply to JuanTinco:
Or maybe he wants to do it himself without a guide, for the adventure? Not everyone has the spare disposable cash to pay a guide, and it is more of an achievement to do it without one. He has plenty of time to get prepared before September. Can't see why this would be a wind-up - lots of people do it without a guide.

In reply to Chris Sansum:

Is it more of an achievement to do something without a guide?
Is it then more of an achievement to do something without a partner?

I agree it is possible without a guide, but reading the OP it feels like a guide would be a benefit for someone with no alpine experience choosing Mount Blanc on their first trip.

Maybe I am too quick to judge on it being a wind up.

Juan

In reply to JuanTinco:

That depends how experienced their partner is and how generally hill wise they are. Everyone I know (myself included) who did Mt Blanc did it unguided as one of our first Alpine trips.

In reply to JuanTinco:


Yes


Yes

But this doesn't mean either is advisable.

In reply to JuanTinco:

Not commenting on the particulars of whether the OP would be better off with/without a guide but regards the question is it more of an achievement without a guide? 100% yes. In terms of commitment, self-reliance and preparation surely that's obvious.

That's not to take away from guiding. It's an integral part of the climbing/mountaineering world and absolutely the best option for many people at various times. But it does seem to be, at times, to the detriment of self reliance and adventure.

In reply to GrahamD:

With what previous experience?

If it was the same as the OP - a couple of grade 2/3 scrambles then fair enough, but i'm assuming you had some winter experience as well?

Juan

In reply to gavmac:

I'm not convinced it's that clear cut. I've only used guides a couple of times, and both times found having someone who knew the area well, had some tips to give me throughout the day and who genuinely seemed to enjoy the day as much as me a bonus.

Juan

In reply to JuanTinco:

The OP does have some previous experience - have a look at his profile.

In reply to Chris Sansum:

I agree - the OP does have some experience - but he doesn't mention any Alpine experience on his post (or profile
I do wish him all the best - I just feel that it is a big route to chose for a first Alpine trip - which a guide could be a benefit for

Juan

In reply to JuanTinco:

I think it is. The very fact that a guide is involved brings a safety net and a relationship, even if subtle, not based on equals. This is very different and simply not as committing as a non-guided ascent/climb where the decision making is fully on you.

Again, not wanting to undermine anyone's achievement. I've been guided before, but it's simply not as big an achievement as anything undertaken where you are self reliant.

In reply to JuanTinco:

OK fair enough I had some winter walking experience so I could stick crampons on.

In reply to Jaymac23:

I totally understand the appeal of an unguided ascent. I climbed Mont Blanc via the Gouter route as my introduction to alpinism when I was relatively inexperienced - it was an amazing adventure! It's achievable for a beginner, but don't underestimate it. Make sure you are competent with crampons. Keep an eye on the weather conditions. Be aware of the risks of altitude sickness. Practice moving whilst roped up to a partner. Tread carefully around The Dôme du Goûter (I remember there being a lot of crevasses). Take extreme care on the Bosses ridge.

If you're doing this trip on the cheap then I expect you're gonna be camping down by the Tete Rousse hut rather than staying in the Gouter refuge. You'll need to be fit and determined - summit day will be a long one. Set off no later than 1:30 and take plenty of food and water. If you find yourself an experienced partner then that will increase your chance of success.

Enjoy!

In reply to JuanTinco:

Thanks for the advice Joanne however as you can see from the post I have not asked for a guide or advice. If I wanted a guide I would post GUIDE WANTED in large capital letters.
I have many life experiences That I do not have to rant and rave about on these forums to or to prove to others.
Also I did not come on this website for a slanging match. If I wanted one of those I would post, looking for the EX MISSES in capital letters.
Thanks for the support of all the other people that have replied.
Genuine interest please contact me. Time wasters and know it alls can go and find a tree to climb or something. 😁😂

In reply to Jaymac23:


I don't think anyone on this forum would claim to "know it all". However, a lot of people will know a huge amount more than you do. You can get away with being inexperienced on Mont Blanc IF you listen to sound advice. Arrogance, on the other hand, will probably get you killed.

In reply to Strife:

Thanks for the positive advice strife.
I have experience in using ropes crampons and ice axe. My experience in altitude is to 5550m in the Himalayas. I plan to trek to the tete rousse hut over two days and camp there leaving kit we don't need. Cross the grand couloir early the next morning to miss the traffic also the ice and rock should still be frozen making it a little safer to cross.
Spend the next night in the gouter refuge so it gives us a full day to summit and back to the tents at the tete rousse hut.
I will e mail the hut to book as they only allow 50 tents per night.
Need to book the gouter hut ASAP as I am sure bed sell fast.
Genuine people interested please in box me

In reply to Jaymac23:

The climb up from the Tete Rousse is a slog.

I stayed in the Gouter hut on the first night, admittedly crossed the GC in the afternoon but it meant you don't have to do the slog up from the Tette Rousse before the summit bid.

When climbing down from the Gouter after summiting around 6am I felt very sorry for the folk I was passing on their way up to do the whole lot in one go.

In reply to Jaymac23:
"Thanks for the positive advice strife.
I have experience in using ropes crampons and ice axe. My experience in altitude is to 5550m in the Himalayas. I plan to trek to the tete rousse hut over two days and camp there leaving kit we don't need. Cross the grand couloir early the next morning to miss the traffic also the ice and rock should still be frozen making it a little safer to cross.
Spend the next night in the gouter refuge so it gives us a full day to summit and back to the tents at the tete rousse hut.
I will e mail the hut to book as they only allow 50 tents per night.
Need to book the gouter hut ASAP as I am sure bed sell fast.
Genuine people interested please in box me"



Not being funny but why didn't you post this the first time it contains much more information about you and your experiences, and shows you have already put some thought into where you are staying and the logistics this takes.

If you re-read my reply, with a little less anger and you'll see the guide was just a suggestion based on how (in)experienced you sounded.

I'll let you have the last word on it though.


Juan


PS
As mentioned above, i think i was a bit quick to label this as a wind up - which i apologize for.

In reply to Jaymac23:

Hi Jaymac and good luck with your plan to ascend Mont Blanc via the Gouter route. It is technically a very straightforward route in good conditions but should not be underestimated due to the high altitude, snow conditions and the spectacular but very exposed Bosses Ridge which leads to the summit. As you are looking to go in September it should be relatively quiet compared to the mass ascents in August!

Just a couple of points as you may intend to walk the looooong slog to the Eagles Nest, but most folks normally take the Belvedere cable car from Les Houches and then hop on the MB tramway train to the Eagles Nest before a short 2 hour walk to the excellent Tete Rousse Hut with it's amazing views to Aiguille Bionnassay . From the Tete Rousse it is about 2 to 3 hours in the dark to cross the Grand Couloir and the loose scramble with some fixed cables up to the Gouter Hut. My partner and I are average Joe's and we left the Tete Rousse at around 2am and were on the summit by about 8.30am, and then back down at the Tete Rousse for just after 12 noon before a leisurely stroll back down to the Eagles Nest to catch a train...

As a shameless plug you can see a short vid showing all the main landmarks + features here:

youtube.com/watch?v=fRBF_y3URI0&

Bon chance and hope this helps!

Dave

In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Thanks Dave that is a massive help. How was crossing the gran couloir and the scamble to the gouter refuge in the dark? I have read it is more difficult in darkness and best attempted in day light. Last time I were there we used the cable car however the earliest cable car was 8 am. We got to the couloir at 12 mid day, it was hot and the ice was melting which dislodged many rocks. Unfortunately I turned around at this point. If we slog to the tete hut we can chose the time we hit the couloir which will be as early as possible in the day light. Leave kit we don't need and travel light from tete rouse. Any advice on this approach is much appreciated

In reply to Jaymac23:


The Grand Couloir was frozen into submission and silent at 2.30am whilst the scramble to the Gouter refuge was fine in the dark if you took your time, with the odd trickier section having steel cables to yarn on. The main problem with the couloir is the masses of folks, including guides short-roping clients, knocking rocks off higher up which funnel into the couloir.
I did it in August 2016 when the Gouter refuge was unsurprisingly fully booked but managed to get places in the Tete Rousse by phoning 3 days in advance our ascent. Also a number of the public staying in the Tete Rousse said it was a much nicer place to stay as you had far less unacclimatized folks throwing up and you could enjoy your food without a banging headache!
It really is only another 2 (fast) to 3 (slow) hours to the Gouter from the Tete Rousse and the great advantage IMHO is you can have a nice lie in on Day 1, pack your kit and slowly amble to the Tete Rousse in the afternoon using the cable car + train. With an early start of 1 or 2 am on Day 2 you should be on the summit anytime from 8 to 9 am and of course the snow should be nicely frozen making for fast progress. The later you leave your ascent on Day 2 the more likely the snow will turn to mush...
Cheers
Dave