UKC

Crib Goch North Ridge Gully

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MikeMarcus 10 Feb 2017
Hello

I'm trying to plan a route for this scramble: http://www.ukscrambles.com/wales-scrambles/crib-goch/#North-Ridge-Gully

Can anyone give me coordinates? I'm finding it hard to follow the description.

Thanks
In reply to MikeMarcus:

I've never heard of this one and I'm quite a connoisseur of Snowdonia scrambles so my instinct is that it can't be up to much. In fact looking at the picture in the link and reading the description it sounds very poor, potentially dangerous and more bother than it's worth. The standard North Ridge of Crib Goch scramble a very decent route anyway.
 RyanOsborne 10 Feb 2017
In reply to MikeMarcus:

Craig y Rhaeadr is quite easy to spot once you get up into the Cwm.

http://www.cavinguk.co.uk/holidays/NorthernWaterfalls2009/round1/normal/Dif...

Never been up the gully they're referring to, so couldn't give any info on how to find it, but the description you linked to made it sound quite straightforward, just rummage about to the left of it.
MikeMarcus 10 Feb 2017
In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

Thanks for the info.

Is this the standard north ridge approach you're referring to? https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=64178
 Mike Peacock 10 Feb 2017
In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

It's an interesting route, rather than being a 3* scramble. Certainly not particularly dangerous. It was covered in Scrambles and Easy Climbs in Snowdonia. It's easy to find, just to the left of Craig y Rhaeadr. If you're a fan of such things, scrambling up the stream itself is an interesting trip. One big fall that can't be climbed involves an escape out left.
 Ramblin dave 10 Feb 2017
In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

> I've never heard of this one and I'm quite a connoisseur of Snowdonia scrambles so my instinct is that it can't be up to much. In fact looking at the picture in the link and reading the description it sounds very poor, potentially dangerous and more bother than it's worth. The standard North Ridge of Crib Goch scramble a very decent route anyway.

I think we might have done what it's describing last weekend - I can't remember exactly where the path splits and which fork we'd have been on and so on. If so then the name is slightly misleading and it's a bit of excitement on the way between the lower and upper bits of Cwm Glas - we definitely did some easy scrambling around there, and could probably have found more if we'd tried. We had fun, anyway, and getting to explore Cwm Glas and Cwm Uchaf properly rather than just looking down at them from the ridge was interesting.
MikeMarcus 10 Feb 2017
I'm getting quite confused about the possible approaches to the North Ridge from Blaen Y Nant. There's very little information online and the OS map isn't a huge amount of use in planning.

Any suggestions would be welcome
 Mike Peacock 10 Feb 2017
In reply to Ramblin dave:

There's a fair bit of scrambling beyond Cwm Glas, a lot of it based in and around the watercourses. Finding this specific route by accident would involve a fairly hard turn left to find it. It'd be easy enough to stumble onto the rock around the outflows of Llyn Glas and Cwm Uchaf though.
 Mike Peacock 10 Feb 2017
In reply to MikeMarcus:

Your obvious choices are:

1) The scramble you suggested in your original post.

2) A faint path beside the stream into Cwm Uchaf, starting at approx SH 619560. This heads up to the low point in the skyline here http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2414463

3) A rough path up taking the ground between the streams flowing out of Llyn Bach and Llyn Glas. http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2040388

From either route head across Cwm Uchaf to get onto the North Ridge.
Lusk 10 Feb 2017
In reply to MikeMarcus:

You could always go up Western Gully on Dinas Mot, then continue scrambling up towards the North Ridge.
It's the obvious cleft on its right side. Don't know how happy you are soloing a Mod in probably grim conditions at the moment though.
See last page of this ...
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/cms/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dinas_mot.pdf
MikeMarcus 10 Feb 2017
In reply to Lusk:

I'd happily solo a mod in summer

I think I'll go with Mike Peacock's option 2. Seems like a short but obvious route to the ridge.

Can someone have a quick peek at the route and confirm it's in the right location? http://my.viewranger.com/route/details/MTEzNjUw
 Mark Kemball 10 Feb 2017
In reply to Lusk:

> You could always go up Western Gully on Dinas Mot, then continue scrambling up towards the North Ridge.

Have you done this? Th scramble above the Nose looks a right 'mare and I vaguely remember reading of someone having a horrible time on it. I've not tried it myself, so would be very happy to be corrected.
 Mike Peacock 10 Feb 2017
In reply to MikeMarcus:

That route up looks pretty spot on. By the way, if you have time and inclination you should stroll across to Llyn Glas. I think it's one of Snowdonia's most scenic lakes.
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/224481
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/591236
In reply to Mark Kemball:

> Have you done this? Th scramble above the Nose looks a right 'mare and I vaguely remember reading of someone having a horrible time on it. I've not tried it myself, so would be very happy to be corrected.

Exactly. Except I didn't have a nightmare on it because I backed off it - couldn't really find it. Looked v serious.

Regarding the approach to CG north ridge, I don't recollect any particular problem. Some kind of obvious broadish gully well round into Cwm Glas. The first obvious break suitable for walking, really.

I wouldn't recommend Jammed Boulder Gully as an approach either. It's quite serious.
Post edited at 15:09
In reply to Mike Peacock:

> It's an interesting route, rather than being a 3* scramble. Certainly not particularly dangerous. It was covered in Scrambles and Easy Climbs in Snowdonia.

Yes you are right. I've just dug out my copy of Scrambles and Easy Climbs in Snowdonia and sure enough it describes a gully start for the North Ridge scramble. If this is the same gully I will have definitely done it many years ago. Funny how you forget such things. I did get the impression that the route in question was a gully that came somewhere up the side of the North Ridge rather than the start of the route itself. I can't see why the UK Scrambles site would have it listed as a separate route.

MikeMarcus 10 Feb 2017
In reply to Mike Peacock:

Thanks for the tips everyone. Now where's my ice axe gone?

Mike
 Mike Peacock 10 Feb 2017
In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

Personally I wouldn't describe it as part of the N Ridge, but rather as one of several possible approaches to the ridge. Another possible approach is from Pen-y-Pass, via the Goat Track across the eastern slopes of Crib Goch to gain the North Ridge. I'm never sure which approach most people take. Equally, I'm never sure how popular the North Ridge is, whenever I've done it there's never been anyone else there. Shame, because it's excellent, and more inkeeping with the traverse of Crib Goch when compared to the East Ridge.
 Iain Thow 10 Feb 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Yes, I backed off that too. Went as far as the "smooth groove" which looked desperate. One of those joke Diffs.
mysterion 10 Feb 2017
In reply to Mike Peacock:
The most straightforward approach is up a very easy gully on the left side of Dinas Mot then straight on up. Nice transition from hill to scramble.
Post edited at 19:32
Lusk 10 Feb 2017
In reply to MikeMarcus:

> I'd happily solo a mod in summer

Good man!
Apologies for any patronising, you just don't know who your talking to with forums.
Thanks for the thread, though, given me ideas. I'm going to try the Western gully next time I try my extended horseshoe, includes Yr Aran.
Reading the rest of the thread, I'll be sure to show my wife this, so, if I come to a grizzly end on the upper section, you can all post your obituaries here
MikeMarcus 12 Feb 2017
In reply to mysterion:

Would that be the gully (it looks like one on the OS Map) at SH 62770 56227?
mysterion 12 Feb 2017
In reply to MikeMarcus:
> Would that be the gully (it looks like one on the OS Map) at SH 62770 56227?

That's it, access from the first bus stop down from Pen-y-Pass (Pont-y-Gromlech)
Post edited at 14:56

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