UKC

Happy Sunday from sunny Cogne.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week’s thread can be found here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=658025&v=1

HMS: Sounds like you should be in good shape for Chililla- do you have specific routes in mind?
Tyler: sounds like a busy week. Do you have new weight training goals?
guy127917: Keep eating well!
AJM: A bit of R&R and the PB’s roll in. Nice one!
Si dH: Your theory sounds reasonable. If you’ve been smashing had problems as well that will surely interfere with simple progression from strength training. Nice work with the winter goals, sending MB as well.
Ally Smith: Was your feeling on Sunday normal given your training load in the week?
the sheep: Hours/week is a good goal (SMART you might say…)
JJ: Strong bench game.
DanDan: As you said last week, it shows that the training really works, and the effort is worth it. Is your plan with the technique stuff just to sometimes focus whilst doing the rest of your training or are you going to do work specifically for it?
Biscuit: When is the depot final round? Is there time to squeeze in some cheeky aero work?
Spengler: Welcome along. Nice set of goals- 30 E2’s + 10 E3’s will be a fun years work!
LeeBoy: How were the conditions in Scotland?
MattRM: Good to hear about diet improvement. Any specific changes working for you?
Bobling: I mean you could at least have included a recipe for those delicious sounding curry pasties
TonyB: Glad you’re feeling better, let us know how this week went down

In reply to guy127917:

Tyler: sounds like a busy week. Do you have new weight training goals?
I'm being a bit slow, in fact this was a bad week for training as I was back to my old habit of climbing and enjoying myself rather than training.

M: Rest
T: Office day and so went to Depot, my recent progress either halted or regressed.
W: Took the afternoon off to do some chores in Manc, then visited some shops and went for dinner with my wife. You know, doing stuff like a normal functioning human being!
T: Nothing
F: New half set at BUK, flashed 2x V5, got another, failed on one. Couple of V6's I may yet get, getting back to where I was.
S: Did a few weights, interestingly what was my weaker arm is know stronger thanks to my shoulder injury.
S: Routes at Stockport, long way to go to get fit for Kalymnos on 31st March. My best efforts saw me OS a 6c, my worst saw me lower off a 6b+. So need to improve by 5 grades in five weeks to reach my goal........

In reply to guy127917:


Cheers guy.

It's been a good week.
- I've got holidays booked now which mean I can structure/prioritise my training time - a week in the UK somewhere, mix of bouldering and potentially convenient routes, mid-July, and a fortnight in Kalymnos at the end of October.
- I had some good training sessions
- I learnt a lot about what I can and can't do - I can do a good chunk of stuff but I need to be aware my reserve isn't really very large and that in my current sleep-deprived state I need to be careful about recovery. I need to be both very organised and very flexible I think, somehow.

Monday - as reported. 93kg on the little rails and 84kg on the slopers. Also some rows and a few sets of overhead press@36kg.
Tuesday - wall. A bit battered in the shoulders so some aerobic stuff - did 2 of the 4 traverses and had a go on a third - and some more trx, dips, etc
Wednesday - rest
Thursday - power hour at the wall mainly because I'd forgotten my wedding ring amidst the baby wrangling on Tuesday. Trx, dips etc to warm up then a short campus session - 1-4-5 on both arms on slopers and edges
Friday - rest
Saturday - rest
Sunday - wall. Campus again, repeated 1-4-5 on edges and slopers and on big sandpaper holds too. Trx shoulders and dips and so on too. When I got home I did some core trx work, some rows and a set of overhead press. I also tried doing one arm "shrugs" and one arm hangs on a bar with a 10kg counterweight.

A good week. I've realised though that as alx suggested last week I need to strengthen my shoulders:
- I can't lock off at full lock on a bar
- with the counterweight I can still only maintain good shoulder form hanging off a bar for <10s, even worse completely unsupported.
- I can't campus 1-4-6 on anything but can do 1-4-5 on a variety of different holds, and I fail because I don't make the distance rather than because I don't have the contact strength.

That gives me something to work on. The wall reset is at the end of the month so I may take a few more weeks of fairly basic training to kick-start addressing this because I've done quite a lot of the existing set already (and because it's easier to do wall sessions with miniAJM if you set up a static base rather than traipsing all round the wall doing problems).

I also want to try to start pulling together training plan/priorities for the year this week. I might pester a few people for thoughts once I've done so of that's ok - Ally, Helen, Si etc?

In reply to AJM:

Will be happy to oblige I'm sure.
Where are you thinking of for your week in the UK?

In reply to Si dH:


Don't know. Yorkshire, Peak or North Wales most likely. We have to be in Llangollen at the end of the week so vaguely North rather than Southwest but flexible beyond that...

In reply to guy127917:

I don't think doing hard bouldering at the weekend really interferes with the ability to train finger strength too much, because (a) it's pretty good training itself anyway and (b) most importantly, if you plan your week well, you can still get two really good training sessions as well as your weekend day, with decent rests in between. More than 2 x full strength sessions and a hard outdoor bouldering session in a week would be too much anyway in my experience.

What has been compromising fingerboarding though, is wanting to go to the wall once a week too. If I do this in the week, then I can only get one fingerboard session in, which isn't really enough. However, I want to keep doing some bouldering at he wall to make sure I've "got my eye in" for reasonably quick sends before going to Font. It's all a compromise.

Bit mixed this week. Had some pretty good sessions, but was wiped out mid-week by sleeping really badly (cause = work stress), and annoyed by the crap weather at the weekend.

2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):

- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb [looking challenging now I think]
- Do a few grit f7Bs [done - Jerry's Traverse (f7B), Suavito (f7B), Milky Buttons (f7B)]
- Tetris (f7C) [To have a reasonable chance I think I probably need 2 more sessions of good conditions: so banking on the weather for next Sunday and the weekend after.]

2017 early spring goals (by end of April):

- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband

M: Had a good fingerboard session, doing 1 arm max hangs
- 1 sets of 10 second on each arm (20 mm edge) with -10.1 kg.
- 3 sets of 6 second on each arm (20 mm edge) with -6.9 kg, -4.6 kg, -5.7 kg.
- 4 sets of 6 second on each arm (front 3 in the good BM2000 pocket) with -4.6 kg, 3 x -3.4 kg
Interspersed with a TRX session: the standard shoulder workout I'm doing ie 4 sets of 5 rows and 5 reverse flys, followed by 4 sets of 5 IYWs. I was heavy on Monday; suspect clothed bodyweight ~ 74 kg.
T: went to the Climbing Unit but only lasted about an hour. Think I pulled too hard too early without warming up enough, and also was still too tired after Sunday/Monday. Just did a few of the easiest problems on the woodie and mostly got spanked.
W: rest.
T: had planned a fingerboard session, but felt totally shattered after work so rested.
F: managed to do Thursday's session in the evening. Wanted to benchmark my max hangs again to see any change since last August. I did:
- 1 set of 10 second on each arm (20 mm edge) with -10.1 kg
- 3 sets of 5 second on each arm (20 mm edge) with -3.4 kg (max)
- 1 set of 8 second on each arm (front 3 in the good BM2000 pocket) with -3.4 kg
- 1 set of 5 second on each arm (front 3 in the good BM2000 pocket) with -2.3 kg (max)
Clothed bodyweight was ~ 72.5 kg so on the 20 mm edge that's hanging 69 kg each arm. Comparing to late last August at the end of a few weeks of max hanging (and when I did Free Monster) this is a ~0.5kg improvement in my right arm, but a more significant ~5.5 kg improvement in my left arm - it has caught up, whereas previously it was lagging a lot. Pleased with this. I suspect it's further evidence of my left shoulder sorting itself out.
Interestingly I managed one hang at -2.3 kg on the 20mm edge but only my dragging rather than half crimping, with a bit of a nestle against the end of the hold and orienting my body in a certain way. I consider this to be cheating
S: rest.
S: Had a decent 3 hour session at The Climbing Unit. Did most of the problems from the most recent comp. Would have scored 234 I think which isn't bad. Hit a wall towards the end. After that had a short break and then managed one more Blue (v5-7) and worked about half the moves on a White (v-something-hard).

Injury catalogue: Elbows seem to have stabilised again. No finger issues at the moment. Left shoulder ok at the moment. On Friday night I felt something go and cause some pain in the right shoulder when doing the max one arm hangs, in the deltoid muscle rather than up in the joint itself. Felt like a minor strain or tear. I did one more hang on it then stopped, and today (at least after warming up) it felt ok.

Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 4 lb. I've been dieting well in the week but losing motivation for it at weekends the last 2-3 weeks. Had a beer on Friday night and a burger for dinner today.

Si

In reply to AJM:

Ok cool. Let me know if you are around and fancy any Peak Lime at the time

In reply to guy127917:


A much better week for me. I didn't get everything that I should have done, but it felt productive and after a pretty poor start to the year, I think I'm getting back on track. I had a really big deadline at work this week, so I'm pleased to have done some get some good training around it.

Mon - rest
Tue - Pilates in the morning then bouldering in the evening. I should have used the woody but the training area was taken with a group, but got some good fun bouldering done instead.
Wed - campus. This is only the second time that I've done the session. I can do the first sets of exercises pretty fine, and am working towards 1,4,6 and 1,3,6. I did this at the Derby wall and they have 1/2 rungs. I was pretty solid at 1,4,5.5 - so hopefully, I'll get this goal. I also managed 1,3,6 once (leading with the right). I was pleased with this, as I had very low expectations.
Thur - weight training. This is brutal. I'm pretty bad at this (this was also only the second time that I've done this session), I'm sure it's doing good as I was still aching days later. Currently I'm doing Dumbell Squats with 17.5kg (moving to 15kgs for the last sets), Tricep things at 30kg, Deadlift at 90kg, Very wide weighted pull ups at 25kg (I was a bit disappointed with this, as I've done 36kg before - but not as wide, and 47kg bench press.
Sat - Woody session. I'm struggling here as the technique is quite different from how I usually climb. I think rather than focus on completing my session, I'm going to spend a couple of sessions just trying to get the movement sorted. Session finished with continuity.
Sun- had hoped to play outside, but the weather was awful. Had a really fun session at the Works.

- I didn't and should have done fingerboard. I intended to do it this evening, but was feeling way too tired.

I've got next weekend free, and I'm keen to head to North Wales if the weather is ok. This means I'm going to have to skip a few training sessions. I need to rest tomorrow, but my plan is to get as much training as possible on Tue and Wed and boulder outside Fri-Sun.

In reply to guy127917:


Don't die


It wasn't the week's training load, but the lack of sleep, booze & 3 hours cold cycling on Saturday that made me feel wiped out on Sunday!

Busy recently, so only managed to squeeze in finger/campus-board based sessions during the week.

Week 6:
M - Forearms slightly sore, so skipped fingerboarding until Tuesday. 24kg clean and jerk x10 to warm up. 10x OHP@34kg (x4), 12x Deadlift@67kg (x4), golfers & reverse wrist curl eccentrics.
T - Max hangs (46kg, followed by 3x 50.5kg 10s hangs) then 20min rest & an-cap 10:3. New PB at 188s and much better taper than previous efforts a few weeks back.
W - Calves still aching – what on earth did I do to myself last week!?! Lazy/stretching.
T - Breakfast rehab/eccentrics (2x20 hammer curls @15.5kg). FoC tests after work. 3 degrees outside – numbed out a little on the max effort. Minor improvement on first set/rep, but managed a little extra time in all reps, and an extra go before levelling out. 2nd set was much better; starting to show some ability to recover.
F - Rest & Eccentrics & stretching
S - Cave; 6 quality goes on Broken Trigger (V11). New high point after abandoning second kneebar – It just doesn’t work for my hip/glute flexibility. Warmed down with a repeat of Sam’s Finish, doing the crux of The Wire (V12) in isolation and chunks of LWH. Home, then 10x 1on/1off FoC for a little aero-cap top-up.
S - DIY club. Stretching.

Weight: 76.9 kg & 14.8% (confirms last week's light weigh in was dehydration related)

STG – end of Feb:
At least 4 further rehab sessions – eccentrics, armaid & nerve flossing/stretching to cement in the fix.
Stick to the plan; last week of training long an-cap & aero-power; then taper
Record FoC & Lattice benchmarks in same week before Chulilla trip need to fit them in this week
Cave RPs on Broken Trigger
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options (bolting ban starts 1st March)

MTG – end of Mar:
Deadlift 100kg (go use a proper gym!)
Stick to the plan: An-cap, aero-cap and strength gains

LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or grit traverse?)
8b in Chulilla in Feb/Mar
8A/+ in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life (TICK) or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Is this overhead press? I did some of these but not really sure why, what are they for? I'm keen to improve lock off strength and my ability to hang one armed

In reply to guy127917:

Not the greatest week, started off OK Mon-Thursday, however had to take time off work for a poorly daughter at the end of the week and had booked all of Sunday afternoon out for sports diver lectures so didnt get out to do anything.

Mon-Thurs clocked in 3 swims, 2 runs and a cycle so not a total bust.

On the plus side dropped another couple of lb's so now at 15.9, first time i have been that low in a long time without having major surgery

In reply to Tyler:

Yes - Overhead press - antagonist training only - not climbing specific shoulder stability

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. I did have a route in mind, El Bufa, but apparently the walls with tufas in Chulilla are wringing wet so it sounds like this could be out. Another busy week last week, but from now I'm in full taper mode - just as well cos I'm feeling exhausted!

M - cycle commute. Yoga was cancelled so did weighted sit-ups, press-ups, lots of rehab weight waving instead.
T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR. Warm-up on usual circuit combo (6a,6b,6b,6c,6c). Should have taken the warning cos I felt knackered even after that, but launched into the FoC to failure session. Let's just say that the figures were somewhat down on my previous PB. Cycled home in a grump.
W - cycle commute. Long fingerboard session in evening. 7/3/6/3 working from big jugs to bottom row crimps. Rest then added a weight assist (5kg) and did 3 sets on the tiny crimps, 3 sets on the 35degree slopers. Quite pleased at that.
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening. This was supposed to be an-power but not sure whether I really worked up to that. Skipped round all the new V0-V2 set pretty swiftly, having fun. Tried the 25 comp problems but they were pretty binary. A couple were really badly set too - getting one's arse off the floor shouldn't be the crux, esp as it is too easy for people to cheat. Short go on the ~7b circuit without any great revelations.
F - visiting parents, very little exercise.
S - ditto. My dad at least has a diagnosis now, of vascular gait dyspraxia. Unfortunately the prognosis is not good.
S - TCA again, far better stab at an-power this time. Circuit warm-up, then on the ~7b again. Tried various bits forwards but there are some very shoulder moves on the right, which seemed deeply unwise. Tried it in reverse, some bits easier but now the shoulder moves are going from a good hold to a crap one, so no great improvement. Went to try the hardest thing on the other board (farcically given about 7a, but it is harder). This was really good - very fingery, needing great core strength to hold positions. Could get from start to 27 pretty reliably, and from 20 to the end (32), but move 27 to 28 I can't do when tired. Had a series of really good goes on this - good session. In evening did huge amount of rehab as shoulder was gently grumbling.

In reply to guy127917: Thanks Guy, I missed a week posting, life and work been hectic but have managed to keep getting to the wall, keep shoulder strength exercises going and probably best of all secured a coach and agreed goals etc. It is someone who I have climbed with who takes climbing and training seriously and has an idea of some of my weaknesses-all I have to do is agree to follow his instructions without question, goals are 7a onsight and 7b redpoint by October this year and to build a work/training ethic and practice to act as a foundation for the next push. I will be 55 in a few weeks and coming back from a three month lay off-over the past five weeks I have managed to build up to not far short of where I was at prior to injury whilst not doing my self any additional damage or new injuries-been a bit prone to developing niggly elbows coming back from a break in the past, this has not happened this time.

He will be posting a months worth of sessions on google calendars, I just have to do them and record it accurately in the calendar-first month is threshold bouldering, Anderson protocol hangs and arcing. Never arc'd and never consistently finger boarded.

So over the last two weeks I have bouldered-mainly blacks at TCA and been on the circuit boards, seen improvement in both, done shoulder exercises every other day and run once a week.

Feel excited.

Rich

PS What is nerve flossing?

In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers, I'll stick with it then but look elsewhere for the excercise that will allow me to break through my current ceiling and get strong enough to hang off massive holds one armed and lock off on steep (and not so steep) rock. Any ideas?

In reply to hms:

...and rest...

Keep an eye on here to see if any of the tufa routes dry out and have ascents logged? Chulilla Town - Boca de La Voz & Barranquillo/Falfiguera#ascents

In reply to Tyler:

https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/training-for-climbing---stability/6058... has some good stuff in it; the scapular pull-ups in particular should teach you some better shoulder control.

Mr Fox might be able to advise too, if he ever re-emerges from DIY/house-purchase/Lancashire work hinterland...

In reply to guy127917:
Davidson not Anderson protocols.

Rich

In reply to Solsbury:


Never heard of Davidson protocols Rich - what are they?
Si

In reply to Si dH: Hi Simon, me neither but putting my trust in the process. It is hangs-5sec hang 10 sec rest x 5, half crimp and 3 finger open, 5 sets. Doesn't sound very intense but haven't tried yet, need to be failing on final set.

Rich

In reply to guy127917:

Missed posting last week, but it scarcely matters as I didn't do a thing. I have a 'suspected cracked rib', caused by falling over while drunk, which ended my 22 day running streak. It's a pity because I think it was just starting to get easier, and it had become a habit.

The rib is still painful, when I cough and so I didn't do much last week either. I did do a 22k walk, but that's it.

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy,
I'm in Spain this week and there's not a hope in hell that I can be bothered to write up my week on my mobile, so I'll do a double post next week.

P.S no 8's yet... &#128512;

In reply to Dandan:
Come on, I'm after 250 of Tom's 'points'!

Tch.

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Another rest/fun week this week before Cogne. Arranged an analysis session on the new Oakwood lattice board so will be interested to see my starting point for next training goals. Also arranged a head game session (would like to work on falls and focus) and got in touch with a nutritionist for a one off chat about what to eat when for training. I want to get a clear base from which to work from and I feel like getting this all together would be useful for me at the moment.

So this week:
Mon: Boulder session trying pink circuit (V4-6) and slabby problems to work on my footwork
Tues: 9 mile run - never run this far without long walking rests so pretty happy with this! Felt really good and also felt fine the day after
Wed: Bit more climbing. Flashed a V4-6. Felt strong on new routes. Learned that I need to work on posture and position on the wall. Keep hips in, using much less energy for max output.
Thurs: packing for Cogne
Fri: Getting to Cogne and drinking hot chocolate
Sat: Cascade de Lilliaz - getting used to being on ice. Felt confident and warm in my amazing belay jacket. Really nice, gentle route to get on. Practised crevasse rescue. Will have to be inventive if I have an unconscious person on the end of the rope as very hard to pull them up! Lesson from today - don't be lazy, sharpen tools.
Sun: Flash estivo today. Longer day, fun pitches, slightly more vertical. Working towards axe axe, foot, foot on these bits. Again, great days climbing, walked back in the dark.

When I get home this weekend I will be working on a new plan. This may change after my lattice session but I want to have an idea to get started for my trip to Canada in June. Things I want to include will be fingerboard sessions, campus board, slabs, gym sessions with bench press, deadlift, weighted pull-ups, core, running and many more! Also, work on a nutrition plan to best fuel my workouts.

In reply to guy127917:
Hi all -
Thanks Guy. Sorry, AWOL for a few weeks, had a pretty grotty chest infection and got out of the habit of posting.

Mon: Pilates. Wall for a short aerocap session afterwards.
Tues: Wall. Short projects session. Mileage - previous session felt quite comfortable so upped the difficulty and suffered
Wedns: Rest.
Thurs: Wall. Circuits before wall got busy. Collapsed for half an hour then did ancap and some pullups.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Portland. It snowed!! Tried to climb for about 20 minutes, then explored the sculpture park/Tout Quarry for a while before retreating indoors.
Sun: Tar Pit. A grim looking venue with some grim looking vertical problems on minging crimps. Surprisingly enjoyable - ended up spending 3 or 4 hours pinging off non-existent footholds. Nothing ticked but Consternation (f7A) feels possible...

In reply to guy127917:

Evening FitClub. The secret of the curry puffs is the Rendang sauce, comes in a packet from your local oriental supermarket. Yummy. I regularly thank my lucky stars I have Malaysian in-laws.

In other news *splosh*, that's the sound of me getting back in the pool to keep aerobic fitness up without running. I suprised myself by really enjoying being back and the best part of 2ks slid by very easily. I also noticed that I can think more clearly when swimming than I can when running and thus use the time constructively to get some quiet time to reflect about whatever I need to - normally including some FitClub stuff and climbing goals. So that's good news.

The other highlight of the week was a trip into Bristol on Sunday with my eldest (henceforth known simply as 'Big' as opposed to his brother who will be 'Little') where I picked up a shiny copy of the new Dartmoor Guide and a half price copy of the '99 edition of 'Mendip Underground'. Psych for both is high and with a warmer day today the outdoors and spring beckons. I've revised a few goals below.

Mon - Clearing up after Chinese New Year.
Tues - Nothing
Weds - Nothing
Thurs - Back in the pool! 1700m, 42 mins.
Fri - P45, S51
Sat - Nothing
Sun - P47, S48

Weight: 71.10 (-2.10 - Really, check batteries on the scales)
Injury report:Left calf stuff - see medical professional! Exercises - press-ups, sit sups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, use foam roller.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to April 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Get up a 6c at the wall. Get running again. Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall & Petros at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock.

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.

In reply to guy127917:
Spengler: Welcome along. Nice set of goals- 30 E2’s + 10 E3’s will be a fun years work!

Thanks Guy. Yep, I've got my list of classic E3s so looking forward to it. Need to print out some photos of them, and stick on the fridge.

M - Wall routes session - 35 mins or so warm up O/Sing up to 6b+. Then back to the yellow 7a. 1st go right through to the last hard move, but didn’t quite hit the best part of the hold. Had it for a split second, but fell. 2nd go did it fairly easily.
T - Lunchtime: 4 x 10 Feet raised push ups
Evening: Rest. BANFF Film Festival.
W - Lunch: 4 x (2x30 Sec - Star Plank)
Evening: 30 min yoga stretching
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: Sandbag Strength workout - 3 x 3s - 3 min rests. 20kg bag (Rotational Lunge / Power Clean / Pull Ups / Military Press) Managing more on the pull ups might be a challenge. Maybe switch to doing them first then add more weight for the rest.
Steve Maisch Max Hang Fingerboard. Back to Wk 1 - Assessment. Half Crimp 22mm +5kg.
Added on 4kg, so seems to have made some difference. Will be interesting to see at the next assessment in 4 weeks time if it continues to see some improvement.
F - Rest
S - Wall Routes session. Just running round doing all the routes below 6b I hadn’t done yet as a sort of stamina session. 15ish routes, lost count.
S - 30 min random You Tube HIIT cardio and core workout.

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy. It's the 10th of March and i'm not even sure I can make it. Bit annoying if you spend time doing the rounds to find that if you can't make it on that evening there's no way you can compete as it's a double points night. Anyway. I'll focus on how well I do in the individual rounds and just have to see about the final night.

A good week at last. About 100 miles of cycle commuting done and two climbing sessions.

Had a routes session: boulder warm up (12 V1 and 2's) then 6a,b,c on the auto belay. Then 6a,b,c (fail) and the same again followed by 7a+(fail) 6b+, 6a+ and a final 6c(fail) 6b, 6a. Good volume but still can't get up a 6c.

Had a boulder session too: the steep side was nearly finished when I got there so I got roped into testing. Flashed all problems (apart from 2 that needed adjusting) up to V5. About 12-15 I think. Then got a bit stuck on a couple of the oranges but managed a couple of others. Not bad.

Currently sat doing uni work feeling rough and I think i'm coming down with a cold. Planned session for today has been cancelled and i'll have to see how I feel tomorrow.

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks guy

It is this week and next I am in Scotland. Luckily had a bit of the white stuff at the beginning of this week but it is rapid disappearing and it looks like I might have to try and come back up in March if the conditions are better

Just an easy week for me last week 3 x climbing sessions. I will give a quick update on Sunday and will get back to a complete list the week after

Happy Training
Lee

In reply to guy127917:

Realised I hadn't actually posted this week yet. It was a prep week for Cogne ice climbing so nothing major in terms of training. Kept fairly tight on the diet and stuck at 81.5kg. Main development is having arranged a lattice test with Robin OL at Oakwood on Friday 24th to set the scene for the next 12-16 weeks training before Canada. I may also try and get a sport trip booked a couple of weeks before as the start of peak phase- Canada is going to be more about adventure/exploration/fun and alpine stuff than specific graded climbing goals. Obviously I want to be as fit as possible but that is not really specific enough.

M: Went back to try a selection of boulder problems in the v4-5 I was failing at on Sunday, changed shoes and sent all of them. Think the grip/edge of my instincts have come to an end.
T: 9 mile run
W: Rest day
T: Rest day
F: Fly to cogne with Jen
Sa: Warm up route Cascade de Lillaz, first proper WI3 lead, no worries.
Sun: Flash Estivo Right WI3, definitely more to worry about on this one but no actual issues.

In reply to guy127917:

Hi Guy,

Sorry losing my weeks, and just coming to the end of a very active trip to Colorado. Probably gone too hard when I think about it, but considering I'm not getting much done in normal life at the moment, then what are holidays for but to smash yourself?!

Last week:
Mon-Wed - recruitment sets, fingerboard, conditioning
Thur - travelling
Fri - skiing, yoga
Sat - Skiing, yoga
Sun - Skiing, wall session. V3-V5. All much harder at 2900m!

In reply to guy127917:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 8lbs

M - Indoor routes - volume
T - Rest
W - Indoor routes - harder routes
T - Rest
S - Rest
S - Indoor routes - harder routes

Lost a couple of lbs. Managed three sessions. The volume session was quite good.