UKC

Just got back from a bit of ice climbing in the Ecrins, before I went out I did a quick indoor ice session where an instructor said my boots looked a bit bendy and that if they were old I should think about changing them.

They are Nepal Extreme (not evo or cubes) size 42 (8), about 1 year old but probably only worn on 10-20 days out so far. When I was out in France I did start to notice that they were more bendy than my two partners boots which were evos and cubes. At the grade I was climbing it probably wasn't an issue but I just wondered if anyone else had experience of this? They are probably not too far off the stiffness of my Mantas (old style).

Cheers

Adam

In reply to BStar:
The Nepal Extremes are designed by La Sportiva to be fully rigid and should not bend when front pointing at all. Could it be an issue with fit or heel lift? If not then the boots could be faulty.

I have a pair of Extremes myself and climb with friends who use the Evos as well as other B3 rigid boots and have never noticed anything like you describe (Though have only climbed up to grade 4 ice in them).

As the boots are about 1 year old they are basically brand new from the amount of times you have worn them. I would get them checked out and replaced if damaged. If both boots are faulty you might be able to get them replaced by La Sportiva as defective.

Cheers
David

In reply to BStar:

My Nepal Extremes are 20 year's old this year and are on their second resole. Even to this day, the boots are completely stiff and rigid.

In reply to BStar:

The 'instructor' is talking shite

In reply to David Staples:

I got my Nepals in 1997. They've seen some use in that time but bending has never been a problem.

Either your boots are faulty or there was some optical illusion going on with crampon movement that made them appear to flex?

In reply to BStar:

Mine definitely used to bend, although they were bigger sizes with more weight on them. Not badly, but I noticed the difference straight away when I switched to Phantom Guides. I also have a suspicion that they did so more as they aged?

In reply to David Staples:
Actually the Nepal extremes are not completely rigid. In general B3 leather boots have not been 'rigid' since they stopped putting metal plates in them. The midsole of the nepals that gives support are man made fibres that do flex somewhat. This is especially notable in well worn in boots in larger sizes with larger weights of climber, but they will all bend a bit.

In reply to BStar:
I wouldn't worry about it, they aren't faulty I've owned nepals also and they do bend somewhat. In general most modern b3 boots do and the more resent generations more than the ones before - as it makes long approaches much more bareable and they are inflexible enough to take any crampon. They can also reduce the weight of the boots I guess too.

If you would like to increase the rigidity of the boot then fit a fully rigid crampon to it, although that wouldn't be a popular choice now a days (although I own Rambo IV's partially for that reason)

As a sub point nearly all the last two generations of Scarpa B3 boots I've seen (and owned one pair of) bend more than nepals do.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

so, what boots did YOU wear at the weekend when out climbing?
Did they bend?

In reply to subtle:
Whether I went out at the weekend or not is not of your concern and has nothing to do with the question posed. Why don't you stop stalking me and mind your own business.

If you must know since I got knocked of my bicycle over a year ago I have not been well enough to winter climb and even my summer climber ambitions have been somewhat curtailed.

However that does not stop me posting on threads regarding me experience climbing over the years.

Conversely why don't YOU post from your normal profile instead of slinging insults at me from your anonymous one which doesn't tell anybody anything about how experienced or who you are.

In reply to Jamie B and CurlyStevo:

+1. My brand new, size 46 LS Nepal Extremes are noticeably softer than my Scarpa Phantom Guides (at least with my 100kg body weight). Excellent general mountaineering boots, but not my first choice if I expect loads of front pointing or go ice climbing. Horses for courses, etc...

CB

In reply to cb294:

Yeah I'm not light and I wouldn't want anything bendier than scarpa freneys (and even then I think the rambos are good to stiffen them up sometimes). I tried some of the newer scarpa boots on and found them bendier still.

The Nepal Extremes were defo stiffer than the freneys but that's going back some years, they may have changed them.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

No idea about the Freneys, but my 2016 Phantom Guides are definitely stiffer and lighter than my 2016 Nepal Extremes. I tried both boots in combination with dual point BD Cyborgs in ice climbing setup (front bail in the most rearward slots for maximal front point protrusion).

CB

In reply to subtle:


How about you?

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thanks for the replies everyone, I did have a feeling that this instructor was making things up, it was at an indoor wall attached to an ellis brigham so I guess new gear is the answer to everything.

They do certainly bend and it's not an optical illusion, they are good for general winter mountaineering but I am finding they flex a bit more than I wish even on WI3/4, they are obviously still usable but it's slightly annoying as they were purchased to replace my manta's for ice routes!

I may go try some more on in some shops to get a comparison then report back!

In reply to BStar:

Could rigid crampons be a solution?

In reply to Timmd:

Possibly? I'm using petzl dartwins at the moment

In reply to BStar:

I've got 2 pairs, the older pair has had 2 resoles and I can still wobble up steep ice...with poor style...as I am getting on a bit...

In reply to BStar:

If they were bought to replace your mantas I'm surprised you find the very minimal flex of any concern, as surely your mantas would have flexed more?

FWIW, I've been trying on a lot of B3 boots recently, and short of a pair of plastics I've found the Nepal Cube the most rigid of any brand, from Scarpa through to Salewa. In fact it's one of the main reasons I didn't go for them.

In reply to BStar:


I only ask because of mention of using Rambos further up this thread.

Beware of following the suggestions of the internet etc.

In reply to BStar:

I had the same issue with mine. Bought them nearly new and wore them for a couple of seasons' climbing and winter walking. Noticed the significant forefoot flex after getting foot pump on a mixed climb back in November. They certainly weren't like that at the start. I reckoned fair wear and tear, given the number of miles and metres I'd put on them - plus I'm not far shy of 90kg. Replaced with some Nepal Evos which are comfortably stiff. Now standing on monos is easy peasy again.