UKC

Hello all,

I'm looking for a good Sport Crag for a group with good routes 6a to 7c. Grateful for any suggestions.

Looking at Dumbarton Rock but the 6's don't look great.

Many thanks!
Dan

In reply to Keendan:

North Berwick Law would fit your bill perfectly.
Well equipped, 45 mins or thereabouts from Edinburgh, nice flat grassy base, good routes from 6a through to 7a+ and there's donkeys too.

In reply to Keendan:
It doesn't really exist.
You best bet is...
Ratho Quarry

In reply to Keendan:

Weem - about 50 routes on 6 different crags. Most of the crags quick drying, though many of the slabbier routes on the best crag, Weem Rock seep a bit. Good sunny south-facing venue at this time of year, before the leaves are on the trees.

In reply to JLS:


Certainly true that the best bet for sport climbing near Edinburgh is *in* Ratho Quarry.

In reply to Keendan:

If you can stretch your 1 hour 30 mins to 1 hour 45 mins, you get a lot more choice: Glen Ogle, Ley Quarry, Legaston Quarry, and Rob's Reed, some of which need summer / dry & breezy conditions, but fit the bill better than other places except Weem.

In reply to Keendan:

I wouldnt take a group to Ogle - some pretty shoddy old bolts there and the climbing is an acquired (or not) taste
The Angus quarries are pretty grotty, and often damp, defo a high summer location at best. Not for aesthetics!
Robs Reed is nice but with a group could be tricky as parking is limited and an important consideration for access relations with the farm
Kirriemuir is very amenable for groups, parking, flat ground etc but not much in the 7s
Ratho has only a few route, but it is very accessible!
North Berwick is also very accessible for groups, decent short routes up to the low 7s, easy parking and great fish&chips after in NB
Weem prob has the best quality of routes in the range, plenty parking there by the church, nice woodland setting. Best stick to the main face with a group, some of the outliers are a mission to find.

In reply to Keendan:

Thanks for the replies!

North Berwick looks like the place to start, and Weem if we are prepared for the journey and it's dry.

Keen to at least give Ratho quarry a go too.

We'll be going in Sept so hopefully dried up over summer but weather is a gamble.