UKC

Got a trip to Himalaya planned and the trekking company is recommending we take a figure of 8 device for abseiling. Does this have any advantages over the usual Air Traffic Control belay device when abseiling? I'd rather not shell out for the figure of 8 if an ATC is just as good. Also, any recommendations for the best type / make of ascender. Am likely to be using it in cold weather with thick gloves on, so one you can use without taking gloves off would be good.

Thanks

Richard

In reply to richard s:
The only advantage i can see is that some of the funkier 8s have horns that can be used to adjust decent rate.
Maybe they dissipate heat better on long abs? Just a guess though

I'd ask the company why they make the recommendation myself

If you are anywhere near the lakes i may be able to lend you a fig 8 for as long as you need if you do indeed need one?

In reply to richard s:

Easier to get an icy rope through in mitts?

Just a guess though, I have about as much high altitude experience of a Mary Berry.

In reply to richard s:

Fig 8 will work a lot better with thick fixed ropes. ATC might not even fit the 12mm rope, let alone allow you to abseil with. Old trusted fig 8 would however still work.

In reply to richard s:
Main advantage of an 8 is that you can pass a knot through it. I have needed to abseil down two 50m ropes tied together while descending a pass, needed to use a prussik to pass the knot with a regular descender. Highly unlikely to be 12mm rope, if it's fixed rope, more likely 8mm or thereabouts since weight of fixed rope is a priority.

In reply to richard s:

Ease and safety I would say - storm comes in, you get held up, cold hands, iced ropes, would you rather wally about with an ATC or get it right 1st time with a nice big 8 and get back to camp!

Also, 8s can speed up clipping in and out when travelling together as a group - say navigating crevasse field as a group of 4/5. Saves time messing with knots in gloves/whiteout.

In reply to richard s:

You can easily lock off and unlock a figure eight, without awkward knots in the rope which may freeze up or be very difficult to untie in big gloves.

In reply to richard s:

AT £15 or so, a fig 8 isn't going to be the most expensive part of your trip ! A fig 8 has the advantage that it is very easy to add an extra turn to add extra friction (as I found out when canyoning once where the guide insisted on this set up)

If its a trekking trip you are not particularly likely to actually need it but making the guides life easier by taking the recomended kit it can't hurt..

In reply to GrahamD:
Thanks for the advice everyone, will go with the figure of eight

Richard

In reply to WildCamper:


The ATC gets too hot to hold after a 50m abseil!