UKC

When thinking of world class climbing destinations, the Isle of Man might not be the first place that springs to mind. Home to the world famous TT motorbike races, kippers and the tailless Manx cat, climbing isn't high on the list of attractions. Dropped into the middle of the Irish sea with 95 miles of coastline you might think the Isle of Man has fantastic potential for sea cliff climbing.

Unfortunately the geological make up of the Island is less than favourable and despite a varied blend of limestone, sandstone, conglomerate, granite and slates the island isn't blessed with swathes of perfect rock. Loose, friable 'adventure' climbing is the flavour of the day.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

So that's what you wanted the Moorland Gritstone guide for

Great article too Chris, particularly as it wasn't an area I knew a great deal about. Nothing like a few good photos to inspire a trip there too!

In reply to UKC Articles: Levitation looks like one of the easiest E6s around...but only assuming the gear is good which it might not be. I vsited on a very wet August bank holiday some years ago ond only climbed at The Chasms. I remember doing something right of Torque Test that was given maybe E1 but it was more like E3 5b - very exciting. We also met Dougie who suggested a few E7s on the other side of the island but we were too scared so we ran away.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

On the note of island based destination articles, aren't you heading to Shetland later this year?

Hint, hint...

In reply to UKC Articles:

That's hilarious - thank you.

A destination guide that relies on photos of non climbing (TT), indoor walls, artificial walls and guidebooks to other areas more than local shots.

It looks like choss to be honest and I can get to Skye, Arran or Lundy in about the same time.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Ha of all the places in the world and you roll out this pile of tat.

Pull your fingers out of your.... and do some proper journalism for once rather than pushing out uninspiring articles or company advertisements.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks for this, I'm moving to the Isle of Man shortly.

In reply to Jonathan Spooner:
Hi Jonathan,

We welcome submissions if you have ideas for articles and destinations. Feel free to get in touch...

In reply to UKC Articles:

I think you've rather downplayed the quality and volume of hard trad that has been established over recent years. It's a shame some of this is so hard to photograph because there really is some amazing climbing lurking under the Island's clifftops.

I'm biased of course, it was my home turf for a long time and I loved some of the climbing there. I was very sad to see the hardest lines of my climbing career in pieces on the beach in Peel this Christmas.

It's not a destination a weekend trip will do justice to, the routes are widely spread out across 50mi of rugged coast and access is often non-trivial despite the complete coastal path but there are some lovely seaside climbing experiences out there for those willing to seek them out and technically proficient enough to get onto the steeper, sounder lines.
jk

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Yeah, we're booked on the ferry on the 30th April. You want me write article, boss?

In reply to UKC Articles:
:

Ahh, the tightrope walk of the destination article writer...

On the one hand you've got people questioning the purpose of writing an article to such a meaningless area and on the other hand you've got people from the area questioning why you didn't make it meaningful enough. Chris, I feel your pain

Jokes aside, I think it's a good/balanced article, tempering what is clearly a fondness for the area with the expectations of any would-be visitor. The fact Chris has involved pictures of the TT, the local wall, and that amazing shot of Dougie Hall on Appointment with Fear, all adds to the appeal for me - it gives a bit of depth and a nod towards the history and heritage of the island.

James (jkarran), what I would say is that the article doesn't stop after it's been published - these threads are saved + archived. As such, what routes would you recommend from the island? I for one would be interested to know about the harder trad you mentioned. Not sure when I'll make it there, but it's good to put these things on the list...

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:


Oh I'm not criticising, it clearly isn't a 'destination' like the Peak or Welsh Slate with something for everyone. Truth told it's not the easiest place to climb and it's bloody difficult as a lower grade climber.

The majority of the hard routes at the time I left about 8 years ago were on or around the Chasms area, there were probably 30+ routes of E5+, many of them sustained sport-like climbing on gently leaning walls with adequate gear and some of them as Chris hinted at, in amazing settings hanging out over huge sea caves. Most of the pics in my gallery are from the Island https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=23380

There is more hard quality stuff at Santon and Groudle and doubtless over the years more has been found or excavated. Spanish head is huge, steep, a bit friable and has some soaring roofed grooves in the E6/7 range. Between Fistard and Chasms there is a very steep and surprisingly solid little crag (Kione-y-gogghan) with some genuinely good sub-extreme routes and potential for some lower grade adventuring on the less steep, less solid bits. Scarlett has some different climbing on volcanics, it's limited but a nice spot and a worthwhile evening distraction if you're stopping in Castletown and the tide is right.

I'd say go late summer and get in touch with some local climbers to show you around before you go if you can it'll save a lot of time. Take bikes and stick a mask/snorkel in with the ab rope and climbing kit then go explore the coast. It's a lovely place.

Most of the climbing is on the southern and to some extent, the eastern coast, the rest of the coast is sand or shale with the exception of Peel's soft red sandstone (lovely when wave polished, less so otherwise).

Wild camping on the less assessible beaches is lovely (no idea how legal but some require serious effort to get to so who'd even even know) and exploring a mile or two along the shore in the evening may still turn up that new route you've been looking for
jk

In reply to JJ Spooner:


That's excellent - and what would you call "proper journalism"? ...perhaps another article on Stanage, Llanberis or Pembroke? I guess it shows that not everyone feels comfortable going somewhere slightly out of the ordinary, and they'll instantly dismiss it as "ridiculous" without ever giving it an exploratory lick. A bit like bacon ice cream.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks for this - it's great to have articles about places that few people know about, rather than just areas that are already overcrowded.

In reply to UKC Articles:

There's some stuff about climbs on the island in the 1983 Lancashire guide book. (Maybe the article mentions it? I have to admit I didn't read it all the way through).
I went for a poke around on a business visit in 1993 and had a nice evening soloing some routes at Maughold Head. I don't recall being scared to death by suspect rock there.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Quite a few years ago we went to watch the Manx GP, and other associated motorcycle events on at that time. My mate booked us on a campsite at Dhoon Bay. Now the old Isle of Man guide book gives some climbing on the sea cliffs at Dhoon Bay so we took our gear and went to have a look. Did one route, frightened the living daylights out of us due to loose rock, grass etc, which we were normally quite capable of dealing with due to doing a lot of stuff on Peak District trad limestone, but this was rather extreme. My mate totally refused to have anything else to do with climbing there so we spent the rest of our visit watching motorbikes and going walking.
I notice Dhoon Bay does not feature on the UK climbing map of the Isle of Man.

John Gresty

In reply to jkarran:


I've seen some stunning photos of Dougie's routes at Back of Brada on his and also Dave Hinton's FB pages.

In reply to John Gresty:

Oh there was something mentioned in an old guide I had for Dhoon. I went looking once and couldn't find anything to even vaguely match the description but I did find a dead mountain goat under an outcrop which I took to be a bad sign! There's some random stuff been written up as routes over the years. Probably made sense the day it was cleaned...
jk

In reply to jon:

The 7c+ of his at the back if Bradda is the best 7c+ i've ever done anywhere, and a solid contender for the best sport route i've done.
The trad is great to, with the caveat that the best stuff is generally E4+.

In reply to Nik Jennings:

I will try and link up some of pics I've taken on my trips over to the IOM. Personally I think a 'Fairhead' style meet on the Island probably in September would be a great idea. As you said Nik there is some real quality on the island. I'm happy to offer my advice and recommendations to anyone who is interested.