UKC

Bolting in Horseshoe Quarry, Stoney

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 CPH 18 Feb 2017

Who's put all the bolts in along the bottom of Doodah Buttress in HSQ? And why?
Post edited at 16:35
 gethin_allen 18 Feb 2017
In reply to CPH:

I'm not sure about the bolts in question but in the past the quarry has been used by the BMC to run bolting training courses so unusually placed bolts that couldn't be used to protect a fall could be a result of this.
 stp 18 Feb 2017
In reply to CPH:

There are loads of bolts in the ground at the base of Main Wall too. At first you only see a few but once you start looking and counting you realise just how many there are.

I have to say it seems like a massive waste of money and bolts. Those bolts could have been used in existing routes, replacing older ones.

Also I don't see putting bolts in the ground as any use for training to equip routes anyway. Drilling the hole, blowing it out, and putting the bolt in is pretty rudimentary. You could learn that from a simple web page. The hard part is figuring out the best place to put bolts, solid rock, easy to clip, not too far or near to the last one etc.
17
 jimtitt 18 Feb 2017
In reply to stp:

They are long-term test bolts.
1
 GarethSL 19 Feb 2017
In reply to CPH:
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/anchor-testing-area-established-at-horseshoe-quarry

also: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=597143

And this details the actual study: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=804
Post edited at 10:36
 remus Global Crag Moderator 19 Feb 2017
In reply to jimtitt:

Does anyone know when the full study will be published? The original study (published in 2007) mentioned that the last tests would be done at 10 years, so should be due fairly soon, if not done already.
 jimtitt 19 Feb 2017
In reply to remus:

There was some testing done last year and I seem to remember some more is due this year. I´ m on the Tech commitee but have no involvement as my products are included in the tests.
 stp 19 Feb 2017
In reply to jimtitt:

> They are long-term test bolts.

Testing what exactly? For climbing, bolts are never placed in this position ie. on the ground. They're place in vertical or overhanging rock. And why are there so many of them?
9
 remus Global Crag Moderator 19 Feb 2017
In reply to stp:
From the link GarethSL provided:

> The aim was to compare the performance and longevity of different anchor systems placed in natural stone, and also to investigate methods of sustainable bolting.

I assume the bolts were placed at ground level under the assumption that orientation was a minimally confounding factor and made bolt placement/testing easier.

As to why so many bolts, if you read the linked study you'll see that they're testing 4 different varieties of bolts. For each bolt type they're doing several pull out tests (1 week, 1 year, 5 years and 10 years) and each test is repeated 3 times for each bolt type. 4 bolt types x 4 tests x 3 bolts/test = 48 bolts. The study also mentions some other adhoc tests that were performed so that would count for a few more bolts.

ed: apologies, numbers were wrong in the above. corrected calc: 5 bolt types x 5 tests x 3 bolts/test = 75 bolts
Post edited at 20:10
 stp 19 Feb 2017
In reply to remus:

Thanks for the clarification. Though I'm somewhat surprised such basic tests have not been conducted elsewhere.
1
OP CPH 20 Feb 2017
In reply to CPH:
mmmm..... Doodah Buttress would be a peasant little venue if fully bolted. I never see anyone on it, and go in HSQ quite a lot (got no taste!). I note the names of first ascensionists from 1987 guide: Pretty, Gregorys, Ralph. Any thoughts anyone?
Post edited at 07:03
In reply to CPH:

> mmmm..... Doodah Buttress would be a peasant little venue if fully bolted. I never see anyone on it, and go in HSQ quite a lot (got no taste!). I note the names of first ascensionists from 1987 guide: Pretty, Gregorys, Ralph. Any thoughts anyone?

Steve Ralph, aka Jungle, is sadly no longer with us. He borrowed a pointing trowel off me to clean the routes up,and gardened them on lead. I have a feeling that Steve would have been happy if his routes, however small and scruffy were being climbed.
OP CPH 20 Feb 2017
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Thanks for those thoughts on a potentially pleasant venue.
Post edited at 10:18

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...