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Help for new boulderers

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 RyanH 18 Feb 2017
Good evening,

Me and my partner have recently started bouldering and have come across a few uncertainties and would like your help.

What's in and what's out?

In our guide books it sometimes states that you can't use a certain hold or arêtes etc which we are certainly fine with, the problem comes when we attempt a route that's supposedly harder than routes previously and is loads easier but has a massive jug/arête etc to use but isn't stated as being out.
In reply to RyanH:

unless something is specifically mentioned, then it's all in.
Interestingly, bouldering saw a Damascene conversion from the 90s into the new millennium, and saw a change from 'eliminates' bouldering with rules, to logical lines with everything (within reason) in.
Which area/guides are you using?
OP RyanH 18 Feb 2017
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

I'm climbing all over really,I'm mainly based in the south west so places like Dartmoor and Portland. I get home as often as I can so I climb in the peaks when I can. The guides im using are the Rockfax app and guide books as well as a climbers club guides.
In reply to RyanH:
Usually you get something like:
V4, foot block is out at this grade. If there isn't any restriction in the text, then anything is in.
If you think something's overgraded with the arête/hueco, then send it without. Maybe you're just going well at the moment!
However, eliminate is a bit 1987
Post edited at 10:40
OP RyanH 19 Feb 2017
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Just a little before my time then but not by much
We have seen those kinds of things written in the guieds and followed their guidelines, so I guess that's all we should keep doing for now. Thanks for your help

Ryan
 UKB Shark 19 Feb 2017
In reply

>Interestingly, bouldering saw a Damascene conversion from the 90s into the new millennium, and saw a change from 'eliminates' bouldering with rules, to logical lines with everything


Did it indeed. Check out UKB for French starts, Bristols starts, low starts, foot blocks, knees etc. Not to mention the Green traverse

 Lord_ash2000 20 Feb 2017
In reply to RyanH:

Generally, in terms of holds everything is in unless otherwise stated. Sometimes there is a degree of sticking to the 'line' through, if a problem says "climb the arête" for example, you've a certain degree of leeway as to the holds you can use either side of the corner but if you find yourself off to the side completely on the face then you've probably gone offline and are not really doing the intended problem anymore.
 jamie_bkc 20 Feb 2017
In reply to ukb shark:

What's a Bristol start?
 Offwidth 20 Feb 2017
In reply to ukb shark:

I nearly split my coffee when I read that quote. Guidebooks often don't have space to fully define rules, even before mistakes... this doesn't mean the rules don't exist for the tick.
In reply to ukb shark:

> In reply>Interestingly, bouldering saw a Damascene conversion from the 90s into the new millennium, and saw a change from 'eliminates' bouldering with rules, to logical lines with everything Did it indeed. Check out UKB for French starts, Bristols starts, low starts, foot blocks, knees etc. Not to mention the Green traverse

That is a quality post
 UKB Shark 20 Feb 2017
In reply to jamie_bkc:

> What's a Bristol start?


I think it's the one where you cross one leg under your bum to give you an extra few inches on sit starts.

Bouldering is the purest form of climbing.
 Chris Harris 21 Feb 2017
In reply to jamie_bkc:

> What's a Bristol start?

One where you grab hold of two jugs.

 dilatory 04 Mar 2017
In reply to jamie_bkc:
> What's a Bristol start?

It's a way to make an easy problem a bit ooh 'arrder...

Sorry.
Post edited at 23:54

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