UKC

Anti-Atlas multi pitch/mountain routes

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 Wildabeast 21 Feb 2017
Hey,

Going Morocco end of March and before buying guidebooks was wondering if we could get some info on routes and which books contain them. Ideally we want some long outings, even multi-day routes around alpine AD - D . We are based at Tizourhane Kasbah but will have a car and do not mind long walk ins. Have read lots on classics such as Labyrinth and Asgaour but would love to know more.

Thanks
 gobbledigook 21 Feb 2017
In reply to Wildabeast:

I did two trips to the anti-atlas last year, staying at the kasbah. The Morocco Rock guide by Paul Donnithorne is pretty comprehensive and once you buy it you get a link to the supplement which had a bunch of new areas, crags and hundreds more routes!

I don't know of any alpine grade routes there... But you can find 200+m routes in a range of grades with ease. The climbing is trad, and there's everything from roadside single pitch to all day multi pitch! Plenty of new routing to be had 😀

Here is a basic article introducing the area
http://www.themountainguidingcompany.co.uk/rock/anti-atlas-rock-climbing-mo...
 Martin Bennett 21 Feb 2017
In reply to Wildabeast:

Morocco Rock, the Paul Donnithorne/Emma Alsford guide book, with on-line supplement, is indeed excellent and provides a comprehensive view of the climbing in the area that's become known as "The North Side", meaning the valleys to be found to the North and East of Jebel el Kest, the mountain massif which holds the bulk of Anti-Atlas climbing that has been developed to date. Based at the Kasbah Tizourgane you could have a great trip without looking any further.
However your mention of Asgour leads me to mention that you won't find it and surrounding climbing areas in Morocco Rock since it is firmly in The Ameln Valley to the South of Jebel el Kest, and is where the discovery of quartzite climbing in the region began. For this area the guide books have been published by Steve Broadbent of climb-tafraout.com. They are about to publish a new volume covering the whole area, North and South. It's to be available at the end of this week.
See you there - we'll be there late March/early April staying in Tafraoute as usual with maybe a few days at The Kasbah.
 jonnie3430 22 Feb 2017
In reply to Wildabeast:

Have you had a look through the logbooks on here? Star ratings and comments will be your friend.
 BALD EAGLE 22 Feb 2017
In reply to Wildabeast:

I've been twice staying at the fantastic Kasbah and another vote for Morocco Rock by Emma Alsford and Paul Donnithorne. The guide book and on-line supplement is superb!

http://www.moroccorock.com/#about

Have a great trip!
 Jamie Wakeham 22 Feb 2017
In reply to Wildabeast:

> ... info on routes and which books contain them.

If you want a hard copy to carry around, be aware that Morocco Rock itself is now five years out of date, and has been superseded successively by the two-volume OAC Tafraoute definitive guide, the three OAC Pocket guides (which might be of interest if you're specifically looking to do long routes as they're much lighter than other options), and - literally arriving this week - by the new OAC Moroccan Anti-Atlas.

These all come from the team which produced the first modern guide to the Anti-Atlas, as well as the new series of maps.
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 BALD EAGLE 23 Feb 2017
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

> If you want a hard copy to carry around, be aware that Morocco Rock itself is now five years out of date

...but you also get access to the latest printable Morocco Rock supplements containing literally 100's of new routes which get updated on a regular basis!
 Jamie Wakeham 23 Feb 2017
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

I'm sure the updates are welcome to those who bought MR. But I struggle to imagine why someone buying their first guidebook to a rapidly developing area would choose a guide that's now three iterations out of date, purely because they can stuff it with self-printed pdf pages!
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 Martin Bennett 25 Feb 2017
In reply to Wildabeast:

Hello again - I saw your email but just now having some weird tech prob which has wiped all emails from the face of, if not the Earth, at least my computer and phone. With luck things will rectify themselves and I'll once more be able to communicate. Watch this space . . . . .
Removed User 25 Feb 2017
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Nice bit of advertising from the President of the OAC!
 Jamie Wakeham 25 Feb 2017
In reply to Removed UserMike Rhodes:

Nothing wrong with making sure people are aware of their options.
OP Wildabeast 26 Feb 2017
In reply to Martin Bennett:

Re sent
In reply to Wildabeast:

The winding single lane road to Anergui is an experience in it self. Once there, you will find a collection of great multi pitch routes of which I have climbed Naseby - well worth its 3 stars. We did two shorter first ascents too, Rise and Shine (VS, 4c), and Labia Minora (VS, 4b). Give them a go!
 Martin Bennett 26 Feb 2017
In reply to Removed UserMike Rhodes:

Mike - did you see my email last week? If you've replied I may not yet know - some kind of mail server cock-up going on.

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