In reply to Tyler:
Fair comment Tyler, so with patronisation excluded, the rules are different because our recovery phase is longer. That is scientific fact which no one can escape from. As such, and be fair here, my post only said older climbers have different considerations, so I'm confused as to why you think I have used age as an excuse.
Here is an example. I have just returned from the wall. When I arrived I bumped into one of the young Lithuanian strong boys and we briefly discussed amongst other things training. My guy climbs in the 8's. Today, he trained at the Arches in Bermondsey, London. He spent two hours in a highly structured session with another young guy in my climbing circle in the Biscuit factory. They rested for two hours, refuelled etc then crossed over to Building One for another two hours disciplined session. He got back to The Reach, rested, refuelled then came in for a Fingerboard session. This is something he does at least 3 days a week (with varied stimulus of course). He trains hard most days including allowing for what he feels is adequate and necessary recovery to ensure a) over-training doesn't occur, b) injury does not occur and c) importantly, gains are made and goals are met.
It's taken him 2 or so years to get to that level where such stimulus can be positively handled. Now, I could have taken the day off and with my current condition, I could have spent the day with them. I could not do multiple sessions each week at that intensity for too long at present. To get there will take me much longer due to the degeneration of the ageing effect. There is also other physical considerations of age a 50 year would need to take into account. This assumes a far greater emphasis on learning. This also assumes a far more intelligently structured program. So far I have given you THREE solid reasons why the needs of an older aspirational climber is different.
I could start on the psychological impact but you get where I am going. People like afx22, for example, have injuries that weigh heavy on how they might approach their training. This assumes again, a difference between young and old (Older climbers are more likely to have effects of injuries or degenerative issues. I could go on (you're probably glad I'm not
.
My point being, if all you want to do, is say, get fitter, get stronger, that is one step away from saying to climb 8A, all you need to do is climb 8A. It doesn't answer anything and it doesn't help anyone who wants to understand what it might take to climb 8A, do so. So I stand by my original post that the rules for older are different to those of the younger.
I've given you the respect of a decent answer after doing limit bouldering and system board work after my long day at work and 16.5 hours on the go (if that isn't enough proof to you that I make the effort to get stronger, better and fitter and don't use age as any excuse whatsoever, tell me why). I'd love to hear your considered thoughts as to why there is no difference.
I'm an open book and have no time to waste treading the wrong path if my goals are to be realised, so if you steer me well, you'll have my very best attention. Cheers