UKC

The subject of age and climbing ability or potential ability comes up on here quite often. There's an inspiring interview on a recent Training Beta podcast with Margarita Martinez. This Puerto Rican/US woman is 58 and just climbed her first 8b. When I hear such amazing feats it's tempting to think such people are naturally talented or strong. But it doesn't seem to be the case. When she started climbing at 34 she couldn't do a single pull up and it took 5 months just to build up to doing one rep. As an 8b climber she can now do 20 she says. A pretty good improvement. The main thing seems to be she is just really psyched on climbing and that passion combined with good training shows how far one can get, even for older climbers.

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/margarita-martinez/

In reply to stp:

What counts as hard? I'm 55 and intend to climb my first 8a before I reach 60.

In reply to stp:

Obviously genetics and 'trainability' come into it but my feeling is that lifestyle and 'access' to hard climbing are more important than age, certainly to mid-60s, maybe later. By 'access', I mean able to get on what you want (i.e. sorting out the logistics) and having supportive partners who have the same mindset. This can be surprisingly difficult; it certainly has been for me. Lifetstyle? If you have problems in your life (outside climbing), short-term, they may not make a difference (might even help) but medium-term, they probably will knacker your ability to climb hard.

Mick

In reply to stp:
There's probably a few good climbers who started early and are mentally worn out or injured by 34.
Starting later in life can mean that you're still,enthusiastic into your 50's.
Having said that there must be climbers who've been at it for years and are still either climbing hard or remain very enthusiastic or both.
We can all probably think of a few who meet those criteria.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Nice one! Good luck with it.

In reply to stp:

It's a great interview. Worth noting that she has moved to live very close to many crags - making logistics much easier, and was a professional dancer for over a decade, prior to climbing. In my experience dancers tend to carry across incredible self discipline, body awareness, mobility and willingness to train really hard. On the other hand she's had rheumatoid arthritis for years, and juggles many nasty injuries with a massive volume of training. Not to mention making Charles and Di's wedding cake. Amazing!

In reply to stp:

Thanks for that - good website for training tuff too.

In reply to stp:
I'm 69 and hope to be climbing 7a before I hit 70. The problem is I don't train, at least not in a disciplined, structured manner, I just climb, even indoors. And I don't want to practice and/or Redpoint routes, I want to on-sight them. I did several on Kalymnos last October but according to the new guidebook they have been downgraded to 6c+ so it looks like I've got a bit more work to do.

To Mick Ward: I've just booked for Kalymnos April 18th, Are you interested in joining me out there?

Al

In reply to stp:
Quick link to the maxi pull training aid... You need to be logged into facebook to view this...
https://m.facebook.com/margarita.martinez.1840/albums/1028348990236/

and Esther Smiths "Hang just right"

http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/experience-story?cid=esther-smith-sh...

In reply to GridNorth:

I'm much like you with training projects etc I've started climbing with people who are usually better than me Martin Atkinson and Mark Leach amongst them You get motivated and dragged along Just had a brilliant week in Font As long as it's fun it's OK and the piss taking is merciless!!

In reply to GridNorth:

Hi Al, i'm afraid I need to be in the UK. But keen for trips to South Wales in the early part of the year for sport mileage and North Wales later on for trad (want to get my trad grade back up) - if either of those are any use to you.

Mick

In reply to stp:

Pretty amazing/inspiring!

But as well as being really psyched for climbing, she was a top professional ballet dancer before she took up climbing though, so obviously has good genes and the mental capacity for/experience of dedicated training. I expect you need all three plus a healthy lifestyle to be climbing your first 8b at 58.

In reply to Rock to Fakey:

I was wondering about the maxipull too (no FB account so couldn't see that).

I found this: http://rockprodigytraining.proboards.com/thread/634/repeaters-different-lon...

In reply to stp:

You could create a fb account in minutes, i think i might start one up again for occasional use, could be handy, must be some good climbing pages.... just they can become too time consuming!... and nowadays you can only message others on it if you install facebooks messenger app.

In reply to Rock to Fakey:

Fb messenger is evil. I'm close to deleting fb etc because of it.
7a at 60, I think is possible. (Sat here at 40 thinking 8a is slipping away).
I guess route choice becomes more important, but think of the experience!

In reply to Kevster:

I know

Hehe! That's exactly what i did. I just log in to the web version occasionally when something like the above link needs a peek at.

Deleted the app + messsenger last yr.

G mail is a pain too, there was stuff you had to sign a while back + extra authentication or something too , i wouldn't, now i have to manually initiate synch every few days to get mail,.... gotta ditch gmail soon too.

In reply to Rock to Fakey:

Too much integration, they try to make themselves indespensible as otherwise they become obsolete.
Apologies for the slight detour from the op.
social media control......

In reply to Rock to Fakey:


Don't want one. I don't agree with many/most of their policies and I really detest walled garden policies. The internet is best when it's free and open imo.

I get inspired watching all these guys in their late 60's/early 70's climbing 7a/b on the local walls and in places like Kalymnos. I'm 58 and managed my first 7a redpoint on the wall for over 30 years the other day lol. Find I need a lot more rest and sleep in between though.

In reply to AlanLittle:

What counts as "old". I'm 73 and will never climb 8a. But then I never could have.....

In reply to Trangia:
I sometimes think that climbers are a bit like cats when it comes to age. We all carry on like nothing is any different right into old age then your health drops off a cliff (metaphorically speaking). 70 is the new 30 I want to see 80 plus climbers
Inspiring thread by the way