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Bouldering in Germany

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 rtinma 23 Feb 2017
I'd appreciate any recommendations on good bouldering venues in Germany.
 John Ww 23 Feb 2017
In reply to rtinma:

Err, it's a big country - give us a bit of a clue

JW
 jimtitt 23 Feb 2017
In reply to rtinma:

Odenwald, Kochel, Allgau, Frankenjura, Fichtelgebirge and I guess Sachsische Schweitz to mention a few. I´ m not a boulderer!
cb294 23 Feb 2017
In reply to jimtitt:

Saechsische Schweiz is not so great for bouldering. Zittauer Gebirge is actually better, but then you are almost not in Germany anymore...
CB
cb294 23 Feb 2017
In reply to rtinma:

Where will you be?

CB

OP rtinma 23 Feb 2017
In reply to John Ww:
Good point! South East. Wurzburg, Nuremberg, Regensburg, looping round to Dresden, or maybe south via Munich. If we can afford it!
Post edited at 21:23
 AlanLittle 23 Feb 2017
In reply to cb294:
There was a chap on reddit the other day trying to convince me that there's bouldering in the Sächsische (& Böhmische) Schweiz comparable to Font. He failed: I'm sure if there was it would be a little more widely known.
Post edited at 22:10
 Castleman 23 Feb 2017
In reply to rtinma:

I have a book on urban bouldering in Berlin...
cb294 23 Feb 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

Climbing according to "Saxon rules" (which apply to the sandstone areas of Saxony only, not the granite and rhyolite areas) limit climbing to free standing rocks with more than 7m prominence. This is the main reason bouldering is a bit under the radar in the Dresden climbing scene. There is some bouldering going on near Dresden, the foothills of the Erzgebirge, and Zittauer Gebirge near the Czech and Polish border, but essentially the scene is small compared to the trad climbing community, which is absolutely huge, a proper national sport in the sandstone areas.

CB
cb294 23 Feb 2017
In reply to rtinma:

Forget Wuerzburg (for the climbing, not the wine: The Lower Frankonian limestone is splintery crap but supports good white wines!) but the Frankenjura arcing down from North of Nuremberg to west of Regensburg is great for climbing. I am no boulderer, the Klagemauer in Trubachtal is pretty much the only venue I have tried. There are some bouldering guide books out, and there is an active scene. Bouldering is actually more common in the granite areas of Fichtelgebirge and Steinwald a bit further to the North East. Dresden is great for hardcore trad sandstone climbing (if the weather is dry), less so for bouldering.

CB
 MischaHY 23 Feb 2017
In reply to rtinma:

I've heard talk recently of sandstone bouldering in the Black Forest...
cb294 24 Feb 2017
In reply to MischaHY:

Yes there is some, but if you are near Freiburg it probably makes more sense to head across the Rhine to Gueberschwihr (spelling?), an established sport climbing venue with lots of bouldering.
CB
OP rtinma 25 Feb 2017
In reply to rtinma:

Many thanks for all your suggestions. Look forward to exploring some of them.
 TheGeneralist 25 Feb 2017
So Frankenjura and Fichtelgebirge....

Been climbing at least a couple of times a year in this area for 25 years and never done any worthwhile bouldering in Frankenjura but there is definitely good stuff there. Two of the main guys I used to climb with have pretty much given up roped climbing. I think there are some circuits marked out near Action Direkt area.
I kept meaning to check them out but never got round to it.

I have tried on a couple of occasions to boulder in the Fichtels, but it just didn't wash. Some of the key areas have been banned and others are just covered in moss. Might be ok if you're a project boulderer, but wasn't much good for doing lots of problems. I love the Fichtel granit, and bouldering in general, but couldn't combine the two very well.

The only place in the area I have bouldered much is actually in NUE itself, at the zoo. An old sandstone quarry with various chipped routes. Was ok to get some mileage in but not great.

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