UKC

New Dartmoor guide

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 Rob 25 Feb 2017
Living on Dartmoor, I was eagerly awaiting the new Climbers’ Club guide to the area. Having just got a copy I see that it claims to be “A definitive and comprehensive guide to all trad rock climbing routes”. Unfortunately, it isn’t. Looking at the entries for a couple of the crags I’ve recently climbed at, I see that Leigh Tor, popular with beginners and with 16 routes, isn’t even mentioned and of the 13 routes at Great Staple Tor listed here on UKC, only two are mentioned. There are many other missing routes and while the guide contains many great photos and much new information, I find it rather disappointing. I’d be interested to hear what others think about it.
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In reply to Rob:
Some crag links to the UKC logbooks would have been useful if you genuinely wanted comments.
Not sure how much notice I really want to take of a rather lazy post.
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 Cusco 26 Feb 2017
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

It's a sorry state of affairs if one has to spoon feed the masses with online links and such to allow them to consider.

To the OP, I haven't got the guide yet. But if it's misses out crags it's not as definitive as it could be.

In reality though are the missing routes worthwhile (which isn't meant to say that that's the benchmark for putting them in a definitive guide)?

Leigh Tor's a nice spot but only has two worthwhile climbs on hidden side. The more apparent face is slippery and wasn't good for my 7 year old to top rope. There are two good boulder problems. The one over the big roof using the hanging arete is good fun.

Never been climbing at Staple Tors despite having walked past them on countless training and Ten Tors routes years ago.
In reply to Rob:
Really lovely guide. What did you think of the page orientation?
It's the only guide on my shelves in panorama format, but bound on the long side.

I've loads of guides ( Peak bouldering, Yorkshire gritstone bouldering, 5&6 7&8 Font etc) in standard panorama format, which have lasted well and are easier to read and use. Does anyone else find the Dartmoor guide 'difficult' or is it me being an idiot?
 JIMBO 26 Feb 2017
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

For me it makes sense for the binding to be on the long side. Other landscape guides bound on the short side (like those mentioned) I find are more prone to damage... longer leavers, etc.

As for definitive... a line needs to be drawn. Yes there may be climbing elsewhere (don't know the examles given) but if you included every boulder or scrap that had a rope dragged across it, it would have lots of dross to wade through... needs a balance. Who makes that choice is another question/argument.
 phil456 26 Feb 2017
In reply to Rob:

Realistically it can't be definitive, firstly if it was every possible route the book would be huge, secondly the amount of work and time it takes , some routes would be overgrown and new bouldering added whilst the guide was in preparation.
I thought the production quality did not do the photography justice, also the printed descriptions in an grey / off black made it difficult to read .
Photography is superb, and in general the ability to find the routes is much improved from the old Nick White guide.

 Phil79 26 Feb 2017
In reply to Rob:

I think its great. Fantastic to finally have a Dartmoor guide that does justice to 95% of the routes on the moor and actually makes you want to get out and climb stuff...

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