UKC

I have a 60m rope which is about 10 years old. I bought it for sport climbing in Spain and have only used it a few times on the same trip 10 years ago. It was about then that I was first diagnosed with prostate cancer (subsequently treated with surgery) and I stored it away at the back of a cupboard (in the UK) and forgot about it. During a recent clear out I "re-discovered" it.

It is in almost new condition with no abrasion and has taken no falls. I know it's "old" timewise, but I am wondering just how unsafe it would be to use it now? Can anyone point me towards any BMC or similar papers on tests carried out on virtually unused 10 year old ropes which have been stored in a dry dark cupboard?

I have newer 30m and 50m ropes which I regularly use , but the extra 10m on this "old" rope would be useful for longer routes.

I know the sensible common sense action would be to buy a new rope, but I am curious to learn whether discarding it now would be being overcautious, particularly if there have been ny tests to show that such ropes are perfectly safe?

In reply to Trangia:

I have in the back of my head that the were some tests done on older rope, though can't site them.
I'm sure someone will come along and say.
Cicumstantially, I had similar. And I used the rope without any noticeable issues until it died the indoor wall death, limp, flat and slightly fuzzy. A few years ago my ropes only lasted a year or two from new, but I'm less prolific these days.

In reply to Trangia:

I'd use it but once the seed of doubt has been planted, as in your case, it's too late. Half way up a 30 metre route and faced with a hard move is not the place for second thoughts. And in any case 60 metres is not a long rope by todays standards, get yourself an 80.

Al

In reply to Trangia:

I, personally, would have no qualms using it at all. But that's what it comes down to. A personal decision.

Sorry I can't be more help.

In reply to Trangia:

I can't cite the tests directly but UIAA have done some which show the only factors which affect a modern rope (i.e. one that's been made within the last 30 years or so) are solvents and acids, fumes caused by these (for example being stored near car batterys) and wear. If your rope has been stored in a dark, dry cupboard away from contaminents it will be fine.

In reply to Trangia:

http://theuiaa.org/documents/safety/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdf

In reply to Trangia:

Have a look at Walter's video https://www.facebook.com/SiebertResearch/

In reply to Trangia:

I'd use it, I still use a rope of about this age and I'm not concerned about it's safety.
I am considering replacing it as it's a rather fat and heavy 10.5 mm which seems to pick up dirt quickly reasonable ropes can be found fairly cheaply these days.

In reply to Trangia:

I have a variety of ropes collected at various stages and with various levels of use. Some will definitely be 10 years old now, The only reason I would start not trusting any of them is if it looked frayed or if I suspected it had been exposed to something nasty like a solvent during storage or transport.

But like others have said, if you're struggling to really believe it is safe, far better to replace it and use the existing one as a wall rope or an ab rope where it won't be relied upon to hold a big fall.

In reply to Steve Woollard:

Some great videos there - reassuring! I liked this one on 35 year old harnesses still being fine https://www.facebook.com/SiebertResearch/videos/775462622605908/

In reply to john arran:
>But like others have said, if you're struggling to really believe it is safe, far better to replace it

I totally agree with you. I've just retired an 8.6mm rope I've used for 10yrs which is still in pretty good condition for that reason, even though the manufacturer says its unused storage life of 5yrs + 10yrs usage is OK if not damaged.
Psychologically, I was unable to trust it.

In reply to Trangia:

I can't back this up with a reference but I remember reading that if you leave a new rope unused and out of natural light, it will not deteriorate. But the minute you get it out and start using it, it will deteriorate from that point and continue to do so - even if you put it back in the cupboard and don't use it. Ten years isn't that long really, but I would personally consider replacing it, it's about the limit for my own peace of mind. It's not like it's a lot of money for the most important piece of your gear.

In reply to Trangia:

Thanks to everyone, particularly to those who provided links. That's put my mind at rest and I'm happy to carry on using my rope for now.

In reply to airborne:

So all the people at the rope factory work in the dark then?

In reply to Oceanrower:

Looks like I was wrong: http://theuiaa.org/documents/safety/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdf

In reply to Trangia:

Mammut have an excellent page on this.

https://www.mammut.ch/ES/en_ES/know-how/ropes/handling

I recently did a lot of research on this subject, as I had a 10yo rope that had been used maybe one day a month on average. I decided to retire it.

In reply to airborne:


You surprise me.
jk

In reply to jkarran:

I suspect if you met airborne in the next few days you would see the scabs and bruises from where he smashed his head repeatedly against the wall for posting before thinking