UKC

FitClub 519

Morning all! Last week was action packed, with tales of success and woe, good news and bad; with many sharing secrets of success and seeking advice from others. Whatever is on your mind in your quest for climbing success, post it, for the FitClub collective surely holds all the answers you seek.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=658829

MattRM: From your consistent 2x indoor sessions are you continuing to see fitness gains?
guy127917: (n)ice
AJM: Awesome stuff, good to hear you are able to fit it all in enough to progress.
Tyler: Hope you have recovered after falling?
hms: Looking forward to hearing how you are getting on with the soggy Tufas..
The sheep: Great to hear you are meeting your current goal. Keep it up!
Ally Smith: 196 moves… jaw drops. Could you explain what you mean by ‘An-cap % diluted by high score’? (I’m trying to get my head around the lactate curve results atm.
DanDan: Thanks for the great update last week. Sounds like you’ve come away with a few pretty valuable insights. I think we are all looking forward to seeing what objective you decide to focus on next.
Biscuit: Did you at least get to do fun half term activities like.. the zoo?
Si dH: Congrats on the news! How did the crash dieting go?
TonyB: Congrats on the V7 tick. Not sure if you’ve posted those specific STG and MTGs before but they sound like good achievable motivators!
Bobling: Awesome- if you can get your head game together you should be well set up for some classic rock ticking then!
Spengler: Looked up the Steve Maisch training you mentioned at http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/ a pretty nice resource with a bunch of interesting articles. How did you hear of him?
Just Tintin:
Hokkyo: Good to see you’re back into the running- are you planning on going for a longer streak?
Richard Popp: I like this 1-6-3 rule idea- not every session can be golden. I wonder how those numbers came about though?
JJ: How did you find the lattice test?
LeeBoy: Sounds like a great week, do you feel confident in the nav skills after the practice?
The Fasting: Good to hear you are back in training and getting your ice pitches in!

AWOL: Curious Yellow, Just Tintin

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy. My cold settled nicely on my chest leaving me wheezing like an old man on dog walks etc. Wiped out the week as far as exercise went. But I had a nice half term with the kids and went to Keswick with the climbing squad on Saturday for the YCS and they did really well. I think i'm a better coach than I am a climber - though some may say that wouldn't be too tricky.

I think i'm going to sack The Depot Winter league off. From what I've heard this round is slightly easier than the last, so i'm sure i'd get my 250 score I was after. However I've got a lot on at uni with essay/viva deadlines looming and to get to the depot for me would wipe an evening out totally. That combined with the fact i'm not going to be able to make the double points evening means i'm not going to win anything so my psyche for it has dropped.

My plan for this week is to see how my chest is for bike commutes and get at least one session in at Boulder UK on Monday and/or Tuesday evening, which should hopefully be a regular thing. Total change of scenery, it's where the strong go to get stronger, and I'll be able to climb/train without spending half my time chatting to customers/parents/clients, which is what happens at AWCC or The Depot. Not that that's a bad thing, I love a good chat, but I often only have an hour or so to train.

Fingers crossed I get something/anything done. Will look at benchmarking at BUK regarding new goals.

In reply to guy127917:


The headline tends to respond a lot faster to training than the AnCap number of moves so he's done a load of training and boosted the headline but that means that expressed relatively his AnCap looks worse...

In reply to AJM:

Ah I see, cheers.

In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Dieting this week has gone well thanks. My normal diet when watching weight is around 1900 kcal per day (more like 2100-2200 on training days and 2500-3000 when out at he weekend). This week I've stuck to about 1700 kcal/day Monday to Friday, by pre-planning everything well in advance. It would be hard to have the motivation to do for for a sustained period, but it worked well for this week and I'm going to keep doing it for the one coming ahead of Font. The result of this is a trend as follows:
- last Saturday night after two days away for a wedding, I was 11st7. Last Sunday night I was was 11st5 (as per the week before). By this Friday and Saturday night I was down to 11st2. I'm also hoping I'll have kept to that weight tonight, although I was planning to treat myself to a pizza for dinner after a cold day out today, so we'll see!
Obviously some of the above is losing contents of my stomach as well as shedding fat, but it all counts when I'm pulling hard. I'll be happy if I weigh 11st1 on the night before I go to Font (Friday).

2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):

- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb ahead of Fotn trip [will fail this but am trying for 1 more weeks of hard dieting to get as close as I can]
- Do a few grit f7Bs [done - Jerry's Traverse (f7B), Suavito (f7B), Milky Buttons (f7B) - pleased considering the winter conditions we've had]
- Tetris (f7C) [Almost done today but not quite - see below. Happy with efforts. Might not get back on it now, it depends on conditions after I return from Font.]

2017 early spring goals (by end of April):

- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse? Depends on level of psyche - I'm not feeling motivated for it at the moment.
- Try Powerband

2017 summer goals:
- Do some more f7Bs on limestone and in the Churnet
- Do another F8a or F8a+

2017 August onwards:
- Become a (good) Dad!
- Benchmark and then train max hangs with a minimum target of F8b finger-strength levels by Spring 2018.

M: Combined max hangs and TRX session in the evening. Felt weak and didn't mange to repeat previous sessions so had to drop the weight a little. Combination of lack of sleep, having climbed the day before, and low kcal diet probably.
T: rest.
W: Max hang session in the morning. Felt even weaker than Monday. I'm never strong first thing before I've had breakfast, and it also felt a bit moist in the cellar. Got some reasonable training done though.
T: rest
F: rest.
S: rest. Had planned a Tetris session but it was wet.
S: Back to 5 clouds for another session on Tetris. Got about 2 hours in before it started raining. I didn't do it but got very close on both the real attempts I had before it started raining, so am pretty happy with performance. In both cases I fell off the last hard hand move, slapping up the right hand up the arete before getting your right foot high. On the second of these, I still had a bit of strength left but slapped to the wrong bit of the arete - doh! Still, pleased I was feeling strong.

Injury catalogue: no significant issues this week. Seem to be in reasonable shape now ahead of Font.

Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 5 lb. Better now though, as per comments above.

This week will probably just be one max hang session on Tuesday, then rest ahead of the Font trip, and keep getting the weight off as much as I can until we leave.

Si

In reply to Si dH:

Forgot to say I probably won't be posting next week as we're away Friday to the following Sunday. I'll just report the whole font trip in a fortnight.

In reply to guy127917:


Cheers guy. Still plugging away although definitely dropped a session Saturday through being tired.

Monday - beasted from Sunday
Tuesday - ditto
Wednesday - off work so big session. Made a start on the 2rm pullup but dropped these to focus on the slopers. Left the previous pb in the dust - from 84kg to 91.6kg! I'm not kidding myself there's much more than knack to this but it still feels pretty good. Hopefully there'll be some crossover as a lot of the knack seems to come from really giving it 100% with my shoulders and really engaging them. Does mean that I'm within sight of having the 35 degree slopers equalling the small rails which I never saw happening. Then hit weights - 2x8@36kg on overhead press and 2x6@73kg deadlift, 2x10@26kg bicep curls. A little bit of trx too.
Thursday - rest
Friday - rest
Saturday - should have trained but tired after a bad night.
Sunday - wall. Good session, ticked off a number of the problems I failed on in my climbing-like-a-donkey session last week and crushed my project problem first go. Tired still so not that long a session but a good one.

A good session or so but definitely lower volume.

Hopefully out next weekend as it's my birthday and hopefully a midweek wall session too. Then try to fit in one more thing too?

A

In reply to guy127917:

Monday: Bouldering session, felt fairly snappy despite not having not (rock) climbed for 13 days (b/c of ice climbing). Did some campus ladders to see where I was at- easily made 1-2-5 and 1-4-5 which had hitherto been very difficult/sporadic. Still far off hitting 1-3-6 though.
Tuesday: 'New' BM1000 '5a' workout (ie 2x6 sets of 7 7s/3s repeaters). Felt a lot easier than the previous app. Lower body stretching.
Wednesday: Steeper bouldering, worked one v4-6 route in particular until skin was sore. Can do it in two strenuous halves, just need to link. Some core work + lower body stretching
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Lattice assessment day (more on this later) plus a few boulder routes before and afterwards.
Saturday: 9 mile run + lower body stretching, then later TRX/Rings + core at gym + shoulder mobility work + lower body stretching
Sunday: 5.5 mile run + lower body stretching, later a bit of bouldering, a few easy routes made hard by trying to use perfect technique and getting really confused. 2 arm max hangs on BM1000 bottom edges, sets of 3x 5on, 20 off: 0, 20, 25, 27.5, 30, 32.5, 35, 37.5kg (last successful set 42% BW)

Couple of interesting things to report this week:

Lattice test- still waiting on results to come through, but basically was v hard. We had the board at 20 degrees I think and did something like 29/24/26/19/17/14/11. Finger strength test was nails- the test edge is more radiused than I'm used to and I think the way I've done one arm hangs has involved too much friction in the system! Best effort was -16kg. Robin said it was pretty clear finger strength needs to improve as a priority!

Flexibility- this has always been a thorn in my side, even back to before I climbed and did a lot of BJJ. I've worked on it quite a lot before, but *never* seen any progress. This week I've stretched pretty much every day, twice on some days, and miraculously can now touch my toes. I have very long arms so that doesn't say too much, but its progress none the less! I'm psyched to carry on with it now which is the main win.


I'm off to Majorca for the weekend on Friday, so this week is another maintenance week really. I should get the lattice report back and hopefully get a training plan set up for the next 15 weeks from next Monday.

In reply to guy127917:


Thanks Guy,
Solid week with all training completed.
Mon - rest
Tue - Woody session, still hard but some progress made (but not on squiggle squiggle project)
Wed - Campus - Really good session. I managed 1,3,6 on leading with both arms. Only managed once though. On the other attempts I touched the run. I repeated 1,4,6 when going with right arm first but couldn't do when going with the left first. I made a mistake in my previous report, it is 1,3,6 and 1,4,6 that I've been working towards.
Thur - Fingerboard recruitment followed by woody session. I'm still struggling with the woody but making progress. Followed by continuity.
Fri - weights. I managed the same reps and weights but this was the first session that I didn't feel absolutely beasted the next day. I think my body is starting to adapt. I'm focusing on good technique and am going to increase the weight very slightly on some of the exercises.
Sat - rest
Sun - fingerboard at -9kg. This isn't absolute maximum. I'm going to re-test next week and try to get a 10s hang with slightly less assistance. Core.

Next week is an easier week. The weekend is currently free, so hopefully I'll be able to get a day climbing outside.

STG - by 20th March

-7kg hang on lattice rung
- Squiggle, squiggle project on woody (both sides)
- 1,3,6 and 1,4,6 on campus going first from either arm (1,4,6 done once with right arm leading)
- Small increase in weight training - 5%?
- Two short 7A boulders outside.

MTG - by end of 2017

- able to get multiple 7A boulders in a day
- some hard short boulders in the 7B territory, and better at traverses - Powerband?
- -4.5kg hang on lattice rung
- improvement in shoulder posture that is noticeable in side by side comparisons in photos taken at start of year.
- improvement in hip flexibility that is noticeable in side by side comparisons of photos of stretches taken at start of year.

LTG - 2018 and beyond
shift focus back to sport climbing, with the goal of ticking 8a projects quickly rather than long sieges of harder routes.
8a in a day.

In reply to guy127917:
I did 3 rounds on a 50m ice line. That counts as 15 pitches toward my 150 pitch total, right?

Also did my first real rappel and first abalakov rappel.

In reply to biscuit:


It's also where the weak go to get injured

In reply to Si dH:

Question : when I return from Font, other than doing Tetris if conditions are still cold enough, the plan is to start sorting my ancap out in readiness for routes in the summer.
At weekends this will be done by boulder traverses, hopefully including finally doing Eastwood trav. However, I need to train it well in the week too and I find motivation and time to do this is much easier to find if I can do it on my fingerboard.
Based on the old Barrows pdf I was thinking of several shortish sessions each week, each being a block of 8 reps with 2 mins rest, and each 'rep' being 4x 7on/3off. Using the 18mm edge and adding weight until I fail on the later reps.

Thoughts?
Does anyone have experience training ancap on a fingerboard?

In reply to Si dH:

I had a session plan for fingerboard Ancap. I think it was 60-70% of max hang weight (so for you say ~65kg pulled = 130kg 2-armed and that *60% =78kg or *70%=91 kg), 1min on:3min off x4 of 10:3 hangs (ie 5x10:3, rest 3 mins, x4)

This wasn't the exact session but I'm pretty confident it's close enough to do the same job and with fixed rest:work intervals is easier to set up on an interval timer, which is why I structured it like this.

In reply to guy127917:

The lattice test was tres bon. In hindsight I may not have taken the outcomes as seriously as I would normally to negate any competitiveness/negativity but I don't think this had any effect on the results. In fact, I think it allowed me to focus more and enjoy it. My natural tendency has crept in, wondering whether I could have done a few more moves, held on a bit longer etc. but I reckon it will give an accurate view of what I can work on to improve my climbing. I'm really keen to see the results and get going the training plan that ensues BIG SMILEY FACE

As planned last week was pretty restful.

Mon: bouldering on comp wall. Felt fairly fatigued and climb was not easy. Fun session if a little frustrating.

Tues: rest

Weds: rest

Thurs: more rest

Fri: Lattice session - I get the results next week. Enjoyed the session and looking forward to putting the results into some action. Did a bit of bouldering too and ripped a chunk of skin off my hand

Sat: 9 mile walk from Folkstone to Dover - ridiculously windy but a beautiful day

Sun: bouldering and fingerboard session on 10mm finger pockets - 5 sec on/20 sec rest - Started with 10kg but had difficulty holding on so built it up more slowly. Reps: 5, 7.5, 8.75, 10, 15, 15 (coming off a second or two early on 15kg). Stretching.

This weeks focus will be on eating to increase energy and drop weight down a few kilos. Currently 64.3kg. Also daily stretching (inspired by Guy), a couple of boulder sessions and running. Off to Mallorca on Friday so will be climbing outdoors over the weekend.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. 5x 10:3 with +20kg would be really hard, I couldn't do that on the 18mm (aa battery) edge. Interesting...

In reply to Si dH:

Yes, 70% would be high end. From memory last I did it I was doing about 63% and gunning for 65%.

In reply to guy127917:

Back still sore but no lasting damage, thanks.

M: Rest
T: Stockport, still failed to redpoint the hard 6c+. Totally failed on a new 7a, it has a 1 in 5 move for me at the top, seems harsh.
W: went to BUK but only upstairs was open due to comp setting, decided to enter comp.
T: Two sets of front and side arm raises but nothing else
F: Rest
S: plywood masters, even by my own standards I was disappointing. There was nice cake so stayed to watch the finals which was inspiring, I was so psyched I mangled two sets of military press when I got home.
S: Went to Beacon for the first time for twenty years, bumped into the owner for the first time in a similar length of time and it was great to catch up with her. Seem to have some head problems at the moment so hung at every tricky clip which is ridiculous. Went out to celebrate son's 21st so over ate which was a shame as the morning weigh in had been positive.

Poor week overall, no dead hangs or weighted pulls and onsight grade still 5 below holiday target! Maybe time to review Kalymnos goals

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers, elbow issues clouded the week slightly but have found exercises that work to alleviate it. Also reducing pace in the pool should mean i can continue to swim so will use it as time to work on improving my technique.
As an alternative to going for a swim in my lunch break I had a bash at running on the treadmill. My word it is hateful! I managed 2.5km before sacking it and heading out of the gym and running round the local park. Will save my runs for after work and weekends. Another plus is I have adapted my commute home to take it out over 30km so got a couple of decent cycles in.

Last week ended up as 3 x 1km swims, 2 x 30km rides and one disjointed run that ended up nearly 6km.

In reply to guy127917:


Thanks for compiling the stats

Hokkyo: Good to see you’re back into the running- are you planning on going for a longer streak?

No, I might do later in the year, but I need to start getting some longer distances in and I don't think I can do that while running every day.

m - rest
t - rest
w - 5k run
t - 5k run
f - 5k run
s - 2k run, running club annual dinner
s - hangover

Hoping to get to the gym tonight for some core work. Not been since I damaged my rib.

In reply to guy127917:

Evening FitClub, thanks Guy. This week I'm looking for good exercises to join sit-ups and press-ups for my living room workouts...any suggestions gratefully received. Pretty average week, did manage to get a physio booked to look at leg so that's progress. Work starts on our extension next week, not sure why that's relevant. New STG - get some trips booked for summer before everything gets diaried up.

Mon - Nothing
Tues - P48, S50. Shoulders and arms still shafted from session on NQT on Sunday
Weds - P48, S52
Thurs - Swimming. 1.5 k 37 mins.
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Nothing

Weight: 72.45 (-0.85)
Injury report:Appointment booked with Physio tomorrow! Exercises - press-ups, sit ups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, use foam roller.

Injury report:Left calf stuffed - see medical professional tick. Exercises - press-ups, sit sups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, use foam roller.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to April 2017). Get some summer trips booked (Lakes? North Wales?) Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Get up a 6c at the wall. Get running again. Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall & Petros at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock.

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.

In reply to Bobling:

Planks, leg raises, and many variations on both themes. They'll give your core a much more all-round workout than sit-ups if done together. You could look up an ab ripper ex video if you want some pain.
What are your exercises for? If it's just general fitness then adding in other major calorie burning stuff like star jumps, burpees etc would also be good, if you have space. If it's climbing specific you could benefit from getting something to hang off but not necessary if you are happy at vs.
Be careful with press-ups, they can knacker your shoulders if done badly, I speak from experience.

In reply to guy127917:


Thanks Guy, I've certainly been given a lot to think about, it's fair to say the trip knocked my confidence a little, the numbers said I should be walking up low 8's but the reality was far from it and I certainly can't blame the statistics for that, so it's all on me and the other areas of my climbing.

Rock fitness is definitely on the list, I have been spending a lot of my weekends building my workshop when I could potentially have spent a day outside, now that the meat of the work is done on that and the weather is potentially improving I should be able to get more days out.

Technique is the big one though, notably my massive reliance on my biceps for, well, basically everything. Aside from it almost certainly being the underlying cause for most of my elbow troubles, it means I'm not using the strength in other parts of my body like my shoulders and core which could spread the load and keep me on the wall a lot longer.
I think I have inadvertently trained myself to be really good at Lattice assessments, but not so good on real rock. I excel at a single grip type at a certain arm angle, but as soon as the terrain varies, it's a different story.

Lots of work to do here but I'm unsure precisely how to go about it. Setting measurable goals for increasing finger strength or ticking a certain grade is obvious, but how do you set goals for improving technique? There is always the good old 'climb more' but without constant feedback and advice, I could just end up climbing badly more. Simply saying 'engage the shoulder more and the bicep less' is all well and good but I'm not sure how to do that physiologically. How do I teach myself to do the same move but using different muscles?

Anyway, more thought required there, here is my rest/transition week just gone:

M: Core

T: Continuity, 8min on 8 min off x3

W: Nothing

T: Core
Continuity, 8min on 8min off x3

F: Conditioning bar and rings

S: Indoor routes; Calshot. Unstructured session, nice to just have a play on some routes and also a chance to recce harder routes for potential future use in training. Found a 7c (7b+) that could be useful.
Handstand press-ups

S: Nothing. Skipped a 'max strength' session on the plan, no excuse really, I just ran out of time.

Pretty laid back week, which I had hoped might sort out the one remaining finger issue that I still have, but no such luck, so I'm wondering if I need to get the plan changed a little to ensure I'm not struggling just managing it from now until Margalef in April. I can climb on it with no pain but then it is sore the following day, so while it is manageable, it's not a permanent solution.
It's my ring finger so I could practice pocket pulling with front 2 so that it gets used less...

I'm still umm-ing and ahh-ing over goals going forward so they can wait until next week.

In reply to guy127917:

>Spengler: Looked up the Steve Maisch training you mentioned at http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/ a pretty nice resource with a bunch of interesting articles. How did you hear of him?

Thanks Guy. I'm sure I just came across an article on his fingerboarding on trainingbeta. It looked like it had a nice easy structure to follow, so I thought I'd give it a go.

March Goals Update:
STG (Last Month)
• RP the yellow 7a TICK Did another 7a too.
• One of the two green 6C+s, that feel almost doable. FAIL. Didn't manage to get on them again.
• Take at least one bolt skipped fall at the wall every route session (2 a week). TICK. Mental game is improving slowly
• Improve at the next Steve Maisch max hang assessment session. (9th Feb). TICK. +4kg.

STG (This Month)
• Get on a 6c O/S in Sicily and try hard, climb well. Do it, or fall off trying.
• Bolt to bolt up a 7a in Sicily.
• Improve again at Steve Maisch max hang assessment. (Might try and squeeze it in on Sat before flight)
• Continue to take bolt skipped falls at the wall every session (2 a week).
• Take a two bolt skipped fall at the wall...

MTG (2-3 Months)
• Start working local 7a. Maybe Quicksilver?
• Get cracking on some more E2s.

LTG (This Year)
• 30 x high end E2s
• Then 10 x low E3s. Begin to feel confidence and flow on E3 territory.
• Decent links on a 7a+. Axle Attack?

30th January
M - Wall routes session - O/Ss to warm up, up to around 6b+. Then to the purple 7a. First two goes were abysmal, don’t know what was going on there. Took a longer rest (20min ish), then had a 3rd go, and got to a new high point (2/3rds?),falling off probably the penultimate hard move. Refined sequence here as I don’t think it was possible for me from the ground that way. Then from about halfway to the top in one go. 6 tie ins so far.
T - Lunchtime: 4 x 10 Feet raised push ups
Evening: 30 min yoga stretching
W - Lunch: 4 x (2x30 Sec - Star Plank)
Evening: Wall - Bouldering. Trying harder problems around F6C.
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: Sandbag Strength workout - 3 x 3s - 3 min rests. 22.5kg bag (Rotational Lunge / Power Clean / Military Press )
Decided to drop the pull ups this week, to save the energy for FB. Can go heavier.
Steve Maisch Max Hang Fingerboard. Wk 3 - 5 Sets. - Half Crimp 22mm - 78kg (+5)
A struggle after bouldering yesterday. But made it.
F - Rest
S - Wall Routes session. Warm up. Then 4 goes at the purple 7a. No real progress, if I can just make two more moves it's in the bag. 10 ties in now, so dragging on a bit.
S - 30 min random You Tube HIIT cardio and core workout.

In reply to guy127917: Hi everyone and thanks Guy, not sure where the numbers came from, the sermon is on climbstrong.com.

Second week of training. Quite a tough week last week but one that I have come out feeling more than OK. The tough bits were realising that there are no quick fixes and the pressure of work. I said at the start I could manage to 1.5 hour sessions during the week and one 2 hour at the weekend as an absolute sacrosanct minimum. There is some down time and space to get out possible but right now I am concentrating on getting into a rhythm which seems to be working out, hopefully can find maintain the discipline to see this through. I have managed not to get distracted and also learnt quite a bit about intensity-there are a number of ways of getting the intensity so don't have to just keep throwing myself at the same thing which will only lead to injury.

I have actually realised (yesterday) that i was not pulling quite as hard as I thought I was. My shoulder which took me out for three months seems to be surviving, it is not prefect but still improving just at a slower rate-need to book a treatment.

M-short steep run, shoulder strength and shoulder yoga (off doyogawithme.com-not a bad resource)
T-Bouldering-mainly on moon board, felt much harder, especially getting feet up after pulling on. No real feeling of progress at all.
W-Long day down to London with work, a lot of sitting.
Th-Hangs/arc-completed 3 x half crimp and two times 3 fingered open handed. Have picked large campus rung, will stick to this and add weight over next 6 weeks. 20 mins arc, difficult at bouldering wall, either to easy or too hard. Have learnt ARC is more intense than I thought but no pump at the time.
F-Long day interviewing-odd should exercise.
S-Shoulder strength/yoga, 10 min warm up then playing with hangs and weights in preparation for next week, no jugs only crimpy type things.
Su-Bouldering, bit dispiriting but ok, realised I can mix it up more than I thought as long as I am doing problems I cant do. My warm ups improved, more rest between problems but difficulty increasing more quickly.

Onwards and upwards.

Rich

In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for doing the stats.

M - S - Rest

Felt a bit rough, so didn't get anything much done. The two sessions a week is definitely working well. Just need to get some flab off and I'll be back to my old self soon. On holiday in the Lakes this week, so won't get anything done this week either.

In reply to Si dH:


Hmm, what are they for? Equal parts stomach taming and climbing specific I think, though I don't think I have really got past something is better than nothing and these came easily to me from previous use. Time for more research.

In reply to guy127917:

Wow I'm really losing the fit club plot. Sorry everyone! Travelled back from the States last week and then had the post-holiday real life hit. Trying to get mum discharged from hospital but it's one of those chicken-egg situations with care needing to be in place to leave but leaving required to get care assessment.

M - yoga, ski touring
T - skit touring in way to airport and flight
W - F nothing
S - conditioning
S - leading Brookes to 7a+