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I've climbed on and off for a few years, but never really put any hard effort in to it. Just go to the wall socially, climbing mainly 5a-6a, never past that.
Outside, again mainly trad mountain routes as social days out. Never climbed harder than HS 4c.
I'm 34 now and have moved to an area with some decent sport routes and classic mountain routes. If I put the time and effort in at the wall now, and then outside when weather gets better do you think it's achievable to be climbing routes outdoors such as E1/E2 outdoors?
Do you reach a plataeu at a certain age? Am I too old to be pushing myself?
Outside, again mainly trad mountain routes as social days out. Never climbed harder than HS 4c.
I'm 34 now and have moved to an area with some decent sport routes and classic mountain routes. If I put the time and effort in at the wall now, and then outside when weather gets better do you think it's achievable to be climbing routes outdoors such as E1/E2 outdoors?
Do you reach a plataeu at a certain age? Am I too old to be pushing myself?
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Yes, you reach a plateau, but you are almost definitely well below it.
I'm 48, the hardest I ever climbed was E2 and my last extreme was 20 years ago, but I still think I could climb 7a if I really really want to, put in the effort, and stay lucky.
Being near to sport climbing gives you the chance to improve if you want it.
Yes, you reach a plateau, but you are almost definitely well below it.
I'm 48, the hardest I ever climbed was E2 and my last extreme was 20 years ago, but I still think I could climb 7a if I really really want to, put in the effort, and stay lucky.
Being near to sport climbing gives you the chance to improve if you want it.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I started outdoor climbing only 12 months ago at the age of 30 (and another year before that indoors, after a 10 year hiatus) and went from Diff to E1 5a in about 7 months of that with nothing more than regular outdoor climbing. Usually at least a couple of times a week.
You shouldn't be 'past it' physically, so much of it is mental training so get to work on that!
I started outdoor climbing only 12 months ago at the age of 30 (and another year before that indoors, after a 10 year hiatus) and went from Diff to E1 5a in about 7 months of that with nothing more than regular outdoor climbing. Usually at least a couple of times a week.
You shouldn't be 'past it' physically, so much of it is mental training so get to work on that!
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Of course it's achievable, you're 34 ffs. It'd be achievable at double that for most people.
Of course it's achievable, you're 34 ffs. It'd be achievable at double that for most people.
95
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Nope! I started climbing at 34 and two years later was happily leading E1/2 and the odd E3. When I turned 50 I did 50 climbs at Stanage as a celebration which included everything from VDiff to E1. I have climbed on Grit, Limestone, multi-pitch mountain routes, sea cliffs. I have climbed abroad in Europe and beyond on popular crags and isolated desert mountains.
So no you have yet to plateau go out and enjoy yourself, you have years ahead of good climbing
Nope! I started climbing at 34 and two years later was happily leading E1/2 and the odd E3. When I turned 50 I did 50 climbs at Stanage as a celebration which included everything from VDiff to E1. I have climbed on Grit, Limestone, multi-pitch mountain routes, sea cliffs. I have climbed abroad in Europe and beyond on popular crags and isolated desert mountains.
So no you have yet to plateau go out and enjoy yourself, you have years ahead of good climbing
9
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Too old? Why not ask this guy...
http://steviehaston.blogspot.co.uk/?m=1
Too old? Why not ask this guy...
http://steviehaston.blogspot.co.uk/?m=1
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Thanks!
I just want to enjoy myself whilst out and reckon I would if I had more variety of climbs available to me.
Good to know I'm not too old to try!
Thanks!
I just want to enjoy myself whilst out and reckon I would if I had more variety of climbs available to me.
Good to know I'm not too old to try!
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Nick Bullock didn't start climbing until he was in his early 30s. So I'd say no excuses
Nick Bullock didn't start climbing until he was in his early 30s. So I'd say no excuses
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
34 sounds quite young by the way.
I'm sure you could move up to E1/2 with a change of mindset rather than tedious hours of effort at the wall. Unless you like that kind of thing.
Part of the secret is sniffing out all those mild extremes that you might find easier than those horrible sounding Hard Severes' you are talking about...
34 sounds quite young by the way.
I'm sure you could move up to E1/2 with a change of mindset rather than tedious hours of effort at the wall. Unless you like that kind of thing.
Part of the secret is sniffing out all those mild extremes that you might find easier than those horrible sounding Hard Severes' you are talking about...
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
No although by modern standards I'm not sure that E2 qualifies as hard. You should be able to achieve those grades just by getting plenty of mileage in. There are of course no guarantees and it's down to the individual. I climbed my hardest climbs, at least in absolute terms, when I was well into my 50's. This was E4 and 6c on a regular basis with the odd 7a and E5 on a good day. But in relative terms the Extremes I climbed in the late 60's early 70's (those that get E3 with modern grading) were probably a more significant achievement. I'm 69 and hope to get 7a this year.
I've never trained as such but there is no doubt indoors walls have helped a lot.
The way climbing is going however I can see the day arriving when a top climber is past it at 25 the same as other sports because modern hard climbing is far more athletic and intense.
Al
No although by modern standards I'm not sure that E2 qualifies as hard. You should be able to achieve those grades just by getting plenty of mileage in. There are of course no guarantees and it's down to the individual. I climbed my hardest climbs, at least in absolute terms, when I was well into my 50's. This was E4 and 6c on a regular basis with the odd 7a and E5 on a good day. But in relative terms the Extremes I climbed in the late 60's early 70's (those that get E3 with modern grading) were probably a more significant achievement. I'm 69 and hope to get 7a this year.
I've never trained as such but there is no doubt indoors walls have helped a lot.
The way climbing is going however I can see the day arriving when a top climber is past it at 25 the same as other sports because modern hard climbing is far more athletic and intense.
Al
Post edited at 16:29
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Do you actually want to? For the pleasure of the challenge and climbing great "harder" routes?
If so, then yeah. If not, then.......
Do you actually want to? For the pleasure of the challenge and climbing great "harder" routes?
If so, then yeah. If not, then.......
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In reply to stevieb:
34 is not too old - absolutely no way. I'm 35 and am as fit as I've ever been. Not currently climbing hard or very often but if I had time my grade would deffo rise.
The other side to it is not to let the funny little numbers and letters we put after route names dictate your level of enjoyment... grades are there to be chased but it's getting out and being in the hills or at the crag that matters most to me. By Far!
34 is not too old - absolutely no way. I'm 35 and am as fit as I've ever been. Not currently climbing hard or very often but if I had time my grade would deffo rise.
The other side to it is not to let the funny little numbers and letters we put after route names dictate your level of enjoyment... grades are there to be chased but it's getting out and being in the hills or at the crag that matters most to me. By Far!
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In reply to Fiend:
Yes. After having 2 children, who are finally gettin to the more independent stage I really want to focus on my goals for a while, and climbing some trad VS-E1 classics, and 3* 6a sport routes is it. So not hard in laymans terms, but hard physically atm, and particularly mentally, for me.
Yes. After having 2 children, who are finally gettin to the more independent stage I really want to focus on my goals for a while, and climbing some trad VS-E1 classics, and 3* 6a sport routes is it. So not hard in laymans terms, but hard physically atm, and particularly mentally, for me.
In reply to stoneback:
Yes! Which is why I thought ticking classics would be the best way of ensuring fun aswell as challenge
Yes! Which is why I thought ticking classics would be the best way of ensuring fun aswell as challenge
In reply to GridNorth:
I'd second that. I'm 3 years younger than Al (GridNorth) and my best achievements are around 2-3 grades easier than his, but I've been able to maintain my current level (regular HVS - frequent E1 and occasional E2) for the last 20 years and I hope to continue for a few more. And I also agree that the E1s I led in the 70's are more significant.
So 34 is no barrier at all. I'm not sure you could easily start from where you are at twice that age as JayPee suggested above. Most of us oldies have been climbing regularly for a long time. But I've several friends who started in their 40s and climb a similar level to myself.
For me, one of the joys of climbing is how it's been possible to maintain a consistent and satisfying level of achievement into late(ish) middle age.
Martin
> I climbed my hardest climbs, at least in absolute terms, when I was well into my 50's. This was E4 and 6c on a regular basis with the odd 7a and E5 on a good day. But in relative terms the Extremes I climbed in the late 60's early 70's (those that get E3 with modern grading) were probably a more significant achievement. I'm 69 and hope to get 7a this year.
I'd second that. I'm 3 years younger than Al (GridNorth) and my best achievements are around 2-3 grades easier than his, but I've been able to maintain my current level (regular HVS - frequent E1 and occasional E2) for the last 20 years and I hope to continue for a few more. And I also agree that the E1s I led in the 70's are more significant.
So 34 is no barrier at all. I'm not sure you could easily start from where you are at twice that age as JayPee suggested above. Most of us oldies have been climbing regularly for a long time. But I've several friends who started in their 40s and climb a similar level to myself.
For me, one of the joys of climbing is how it's been possible to maintain a consistent and satisfying level of achievement into late(ish) middle age.
Martin
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
With the greatest of respect, I'd expect that many people in the their forties, fifties, and sixties might consider your question a bit insulting. Too old at 34?!!
FWIW I'm turning 38 this year, and climbing harder than ever.
With the greatest of respect, I'd expect that many people in the their forties, fifties, and sixties might consider your question a bit insulting. Too old at 34?!!
FWIW I'm turning 38 this year, and climbing harder than ever.
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In reply to GridNorth:
You're right, it doesn't, but you need to be careful saying things like this. By modern standards, sport 8a isn't hard, but its proving frustratingly elusive for some of us....! Everyone has their definition of 'hard' and it moves with time and experience.
> by modern standards I'm not sure that E2 qualifies as hard.
You're right, it doesn't, but you need to be careful saying things like this. By modern standards, sport 8a isn't hard, but its proving frustratingly elusive for some of us....! Everyone has their definition of 'hard' and it moves with time and experience.
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In reply to Alun:
Same here. Turned 38 last year and also climbing harder than ever.
I'd expect a proper keen climber in there 30's could get stuck into low E's within a year.
> 34?!!FWIW I'm turning 38 this year, and climbing harder than ever.
Same here. Turned 38 last year and also climbing harder than ever.
I'd expect a proper keen climber in there 30's could get stuck into low E's within a year.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I started climbing at 50 and led my first HVS at 52. Just get on it. I wish I'd found what I could achieve starting 20 or 30 years younger.
I started climbing at 50 and led my first HVS at 52. Just get on it. I wish I'd found what I could achieve starting 20 or 30 years younger.
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In reply to JayPee630:
67 and breaking into the E numbers. Upper 6's. There is time. My first aim is 7a by 70 and E5 at the same time. Won't be easy, but just so long as I avoid the mental plateau it is achievable.
Climbing partner started 18 months ago age 50. She is leading 6a and VS 4c and will improve on that when the weather gets better.
Go for it. The only thing that will stop you is you!
67 and breaking into the E numbers. Upper 6's. There is time. My first aim is 7a by 70 and E5 at the same time. Won't be easy, but just so long as I avoid the mental plateau it is achievable.
Climbing partner started 18 months ago age 50. She is leading 6a and VS 4c and will improve on that when the weather gets better.
Go for it. The only thing that will stop you is you!
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
E1 / 6a are not remotely hard. You don't even need to train for those unless you are very overweight.
Neither is Font 7a, which was the focus of some other thread yesterday. These are all lowly grades.
If you want to hear what is achievable, listen to the recent trainingbeta podcast with Margarita Martinez. She is 58 and has just climbed her first 8b (5.13d).
https://www.trainingbeta.com/trainingbeta-podcast/
E1 / 6a are not remotely hard. You don't even need to train for those unless you are very overweight.
Neither is Font 7a, which was the focus of some other thread yesterday. These are all lowly grades.
If you want to hear what is achievable, listen to the recent trainingbeta podcast with Margarita Martinez. She is 58 and has just climbed her first 8b (5.13d).
https://www.trainingbeta.com/trainingbeta-podcast/
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
34? Yeah it's all over for you. Best book the coach trip to ballroom dancing in Blackpool
34? Yeah it's all over for you. Best book the coach trip to ballroom dancing in Blackpool
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In reply to BnB:
I started climbing at 53. I have yet to lead my first HVS but I would see that as a realistic medium-term goal if I was driven to achieve goals (which I'm not by the way as it might impact my beer consumption). I kind of wished I started twenty years sooner as I probably have a stronger sense of self-preservation now which might slow my progress.
To the OP: Nobody is ever too old to start climbing and nobody is ever too old to keep on improving. Your ambitions are eminently achievable: just remember it's supposed to be fun. Enjoy your journey...
> I started climbing at 50 and led my first HVS at 52. Just get on it. I wish I'd found what I could achieve starting 20 or 30 years younger.
I started climbing at 53. I have yet to lead my first HVS but I would see that as a realistic medium-term goal if I was driven to achieve goals (which I'm not by the way as it might impact my beer consumption). I kind of wished I started twenty years sooner as I probably have a stronger sense of self-preservation now which might slow my progress.
To the OP: Nobody is ever too old to start climbing and nobody is ever too old to keep on improving. Your ambitions are eminently achievable: just remember it's supposed to be fun. Enjoy your journey...
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I'm younger than you but I would say no way are you too old. I find I'm improving as i get older- the main reason is the older i get the better I am at applying myself, trying harder and focusing on the task in hand. In my late teens and early 20s there were far too many distractions (mostly female related admittedly) to really put the work in.
I'm younger than you but I would say no way are you too old. I find I'm improving as i get older- the main reason is the older i get the better I am at applying myself, trying harder and focusing on the task in hand. In my late teens and early 20s there were far too many distractions (mostly female related admittedly) to really put the work in.
In reply to Lion Bakes:
I was think more about whether I have any chance of improving much more, rather than being too old to do harder routes.
If you've been climbing at a certain level in your mid 20s I'd expect you'd be climbing that level still in your mid 30s (bar injury and stuff) but would you be able to push that grade successfully in your mid 30s?
I guess so!
I guess I'm just feeling old!
I was think more about whether I have any chance of improving much more, rather than being too old to do harder routes.
If you've been climbing at a certain level in your mid 20s I'd expect you'd be climbing that level still in your mid 30s (bar injury and stuff) but would you be able to push that grade successfully in your mid 30s?
I guess so!
I guess I'm just feeling old!
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Rab Carrington is in his 60's and red pointed his first 8a not so long ago (a few years).
Barring injuries, you've nothing to lose in having a go.
Rab Carrington is in his 60's and red pointed his first 8a not so long ago (a few years).
Barring injuries, you've nothing to lose in having a go.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
The approach my Mum used to take seemed to be one of 'One isn't allowed to feel old'.
That she passed away at 66 perhaps proves it was the right approach, or else she might have squeezed less things into her life.
Feeling old isn't allowed - get out and get at it.
> I guess I'm just feeling old!
The approach my Mum used to take seemed to be one of 'One isn't allowed to feel old'.
That she passed away at 66 perhaps proves it was the right approach, or else she might have squeezed less things into her life.
Feeling old isn't allowed - get out and get at it.
Post edited at 19:34
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I took up climbing in my late 20s, mainly bouldered with a little easy trad / sport (VS-E2, F6s). Decided around 5-6 years ago, at the age of 34-35, to mainly focus on sport. Rookie season on Malham catwalk doing the 7as... been improving year on year, now 40 and still hope to improve some more - or at least consolidate ~(so many routes to do even if I regress slightly - they'll just need longer seiges).
Malham and Kilnsey have their fair share of over 50 climbers still pulling hard for inspiration. The main problem with age (within reason) isn't so much the diminishing of capability, more the increase in recovery time needed and build-up of injury niggles. You have to be more selective with your battles and be mindful of the boundary between "no pain no gain" and "accident waiting to happen".
I took up climbing in my late 20s, mainly bouldered with a little easy trad / sport (VS-E2, F6s). Decided around 5-6 years ago, at the age of 34-35, to mainly focus on sport. Rookie season on Malham catwalk doing the 7as... been improving year on year, now 40 and still hope to improve some more - or at least consolidate ~(so many routes to do even if I regress slightly - they'll just need longer seiges).
Malham and Kilnsey have their fair share of over 50 climbers still pulling hard for inspiration. The main problem with age (within reason) isn't so much the diminishing of capability, more the increase in recovery time needed and build-up of injury niggles. You have to be more selective with your battles and be mindful of the boundary between "no pain no gain" and "accident waiting to happen".
Post edited at 19:22
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
No, no way near - I'm 32 and I only feel limited by time rather than physical over-the-hill-ness.
No, no way near - I'm 32 and I only feel limited by time rather than physical over-the-hill-ness.
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I started at 20 and I'm now 33. I've progressed far more in the last 5 years than the previous 5, without doubt. My training is more effective and I've applied myself more, and had more belief that harder grades were possible. I have to rest longer than 10 years ago and it's easier to get injured if I'm not careful, but actually neither of those things is limiting if you know how to manage them.
> I was think more about whether I have any chance of improving much more, rather than being too old to do harder routes. If you've been climbing at a certain level in your mid 20s I'd expect you'd be climbing that level still in your mid 30s (bar injury and stuff) but would you be able to push that grade successfully in your mid 30s? I guess so! I guess I'm just feeling old!
I started at 20 and I'm now 33. I've progressed far more in the last 5 years than the previous 5, without doubt. My training is more effective and I've applied myself more, and had more belief that harder grades were possible. I have to rest longer than 10 years ago and it's easier to get injured if I'm not careful, but actually neither of those things is limiting if you know how to manage them.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Yeah. I think I started pushing things a bit more when I got into my 30s, and as partners on here will testify I don't push very hard - I'm pretty lazy. But between 30 and 37 I've gone from E1 to E4 just by going climbing a fair bit. It wasn't all bouldering cellars and fingerboards, just mainly going climbing. I admit though that being a student for 3 of those years was a big help!
> I was think more about whether I have any chance of improving much more, rather than being too old to do harder routes. If you've been climbing at a certain level in your mid 20s I'd expect you'd be climbing that level still in your mid 30s (bar injury and stuff) but would you be able to push that grade successfully in your mid 30s? I guess so! I guess I'm just feeling old!
Yeah. I think I started pushing things a bit more when I got into my 30s, and as partners on here will testify I don't push very hard - I'm pretty lazy. But between 30 and 37 I've gone from E1 to E4 just by going climbing a fair bit. It wasn't all bouldering cellars and fingerboards, just mainly going climbing. I admit though that being a student for 3 of those years was a big help!
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In reply to Somerset swede basher:
Yes, it is time too! Having 2 school aged children, and still very dependent, I have put my own wants on hold for past few years. My to do list is getting longer, I feel like I have so little time! Which is bonkers as all of these replies have proven!
Yes, it is time too! Having 2 school aged children, and still very dependent, I have put my own wants on hold for past few years. My to do list is getting longer, I feel like I have so little time! Which is bonkers as all of these replies have proven!
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I think Rab didn't get properly stuck into his sport climbing until he sold his company. I'm sure genetics play a part in how far people get, but recognising him from having taken my jacket to the Sheffield factory when things were made there, he looked like he was starting from quite a low level climbing wise when I saw him in the bouldering cave at The Edge shortly after he sold Rab (I was taking a short cut into CCC/Go Outdoors I think). I got the impression he was just pottering about and taking it gradually.
I think Rab didn't get properly stuck into his sport climbing until he sold his company. I'm sure genetics play a part in how far people get, but recognising him from having taken my jacket to the Sheffield factory when things were made there, he looked like he was starting from quite a low level climbing wise when I saw him in the bouldering cave at The Edge shortly after he sold Rab (I was taking a short cut into CCC/Go Outdoors I think). I got the impression he was just pottering about and taking it gradually.
Post edited at 20:04
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Can you introduce your children to climbing to get to go climbing without not seeing your children?
Half a joke...
Can you introduce your children to climbing to get to go climbing without not seeing your children?
Half a joke...
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
My advice is to try and build something you can train on at home (attic? basement? even just a fingerboard?). I try to keep strong on these so that I can still pull hard when I do get out. I use mine once the little one has gone to bed so it doesn't impact on time with him.
My advice is to try and build something you can train on at home (attic? basement? even just a fingerboard?). I try to keep strong on these so that I can still pull hard when I do get out. I use mine once the little one has gone to bed so it doesn't impact on time with him.
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
E1/E2 isn't hard and 34 isn't old.
You say you've never put any hard effort in, then do. Climbing is really simple, and you'll do really well if you want to. Go to it and good luck.
> I've climbed on and off for a few years, but never really put any hard effort in to it. Just go to the wall socially, climbing mainly 5a-6a, never past that. Outside, again mainly trad mountain routes as social days out. Never climbed harder than HS 4c.I'm 34 now and have moved to an area with some decent sport routes and classic mountain routes. If I put the time and effort in at the wall now, and then outside when weather gets better do you think it's achievable to be climbing routes outdoors such as E1/E2 outdoors?Do you reach a plataeu at a certain age? Am I too old to be pushing myself?
E1/E2 isn't hard and 34 isn't old.
You say you've never put any hard effort in, then do. Climbing is really simple, and you'll do really well if you want to. Go to it and good luck.
4
In reply to Timmd:
Ha, Timm. We take them after school and weekends, but youngest is too small to be left unsupervised for us to climb.
I can go to the wall during the week wen they're in school. But hard to get outside as 3:15 comes round very quickly!
Ha, Timm. We take them after school and weekends, but youngest is too small to be left unsupervised for us to climb.
I can go to the wall during the week wen they're in school. But hard to get outside as 3:15 comes round very quickly!
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Thanks Paul. I have just gone to the wall or climbed outside and climbed at my level. Never pushed myself. Worried that if I do start pushing myself now that it'll be futile.
Thanks Paul. I have just gone to the wall or climbed outside and climbed at my level. Never pushed myself. Worried that if I do start pushing myself now that it'll be futile.
1
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Yeah, that makes sense, go for it and definitely forget the age issue. If the kids are at a stage where you have more time to focus on climbing then you should really make the most of it! Mine are very small and spare time is tough to arrange...
> Yes! Which is why I thought ticking classics would be the best way of ensuring fun aswell as challenge
Yeah, that makes sense, go for it and definitely forget the age issue. If the kids are at a stage where you have more time to focus on climbing then you should really make the most of it! Mine are very small and spare time is tough to arrange...
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Forget the fingerboard for the level you are at, you will just increase your risk of injury. Best exercises at home will be core and antagonistic until you are climbing harder. I started climbing at a much older age than you and have only just started using a fingerboard now I am pushing into the 7s. Before this, it was enough just to climb more and get fitter/lighter. This year, I have started a structured training programme as my kids are more independent and I have more time. Now I need to lose more weight!!
Forget the fingerboard for the level you are at, you will just increase your risk of injury. Best exercises at home will be core and antagonistic until you are climbing harder. I started climbing at a much older age than you and have only just started using a fingerboard now I am pushing into the 7s. Before this, it was enough just to climb more and get fitter/lighter. This year, I have started a structured training programme as my kids are more independent and I have more time. Now I need to lose more weight!!
3
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Not wishing to be rude but... classic (what I term) Type B behaviour, i.e. more of the same = more of the same. The key words are these: '...never really put any hard effort in to it.'
Type A behaviour: hard work relentlessly focused on improvement.
If you've always engaged in Type B - and absolutely nothing wrong with that - do you really want Type A now? Do you want hard work? Do you want to confront your weaknesses?
The age thing is a cop-out (although lifestyle isn't a cop-out. It can be much easier for a retired person in their sixties than a person in their thirties, with career and family.)
Marcus O'Leary climbed his first F8a at 63 last year. His knee was so bad he had to hobble to the crag in great pain. (Later they took a wholly displaced piece of bone the size of a 50 coin out of it. Not nice!) But he wanted it. Now he wants F8a+.
Your question is simple: do you want it enough?
Mick (sorry to be brutal but it saves time)
> I've climbed on and off for a few years, but never really put any hard effort in to it. Just go to the wall socially, climbing mainly 5a-6a, never past that. Outside, again mainly trad mountain routes as social days out. Never climbed harder than HS 4c.
Not wishing to be rude but... classic (what I term) Type B behaviour, i.e. more of the same = more of the same. The key words are these: '...never really put any hard effort in to it.'
Type A behaviour: hard work relentlessly focused on improvement.
If you've always engaged in Type B - and absolutely nothing wrong with that - do you really want Type A now? Do you want hard work? Do you want to confront your weaknesses?
The age thing is a cop-out (although lifestyle isn't a cop-out. It can be much easier for a retired person in their sixties than a person in their thirties, with career and family.)
Marcus O'Leary climbed his first F8a at 63 last year. His knee was so bad he had to hobble to the crag in great pain. (Later they took a wholly displaced piece of bone the size of a 50 coin out of it. Not nice!) But he wanted it. Now he wants F8a+.
Your question is simple: do you want it enough?
Mick (sorry to be brutal but it saves time)
23
In reply to Timmd:
Quite a low level due to having worked so hard running his company I mean. I wasn't calling Rab a bumbly.
> I think Rab didn't get properly stuck into his sport climbing until he sold his company. I'm sure genetics play a part in how far people get, but recognising him from having taken my jacket to the Sheffield factory when things were made there, he looked like he was starting from quite a low level climbing wise when I saw him in the bouldering cave at The Edge shortly after he sold Rab (I was taking a short cut into CCC/Go Outdoors I think). I got the impression he was just pottering about and taking it gradually.
Quite a low level due to having worked so hard running his company I mean. I wasn't calling Rab a bumbly.
Post edited at 23:18
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
You're at the age now where you should really be considering Crown Green Bowling.
If (unlike me) you don't work your wrists too hard, then you still, even at your age, have a chance to excel in this discipline.
You're at the age now where you should really be considering Crown Green Bowling.
If (unlike me) you don't work your wrists too hard, then you still, even at your age, have a chance to excel in this discipline.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I hope not. I'm 44 and started climbing 6 weeks ago.
I just climb. I've no real idea of what levels I'm doing (5a, 5+ and attempting some 6a's apparently) but just want to learn, improve and get that good feeling that comes from a good work out. There are climbs at my local wall which I look at and want to do. They look pretty tough.
I'm now looking at my weight, strength and stamina all with the aim of improving my climbing more.
My questions to you would be.
a) What are you worried about?
b) What is holding you back?
everyone has different limits but limits are there to be found and pushed (safely through training, being prepared, support etc.)
I hope not. I'm 44 and started climbing 6 weeks ago.
I just climb. I've no real idea of what levels I'm doing (5a, 5+ and attempting some 6a's apparently) but just want to learn, improve and get that good feeling that comes from a good work out. There are climbs at my local wall which I look at and want to do. They look pretty tough.
I'm now looking at my weight, strength and stamina all with the aim of improving my climbing more.
My questions to you would be.
a) What are you worried about?
b) What is holding you back?
everyone has different limits but limits are there to be found and pushed (safely through training, being prepared, support etc.)
4
In reply to GridNorth:
Certainly not newsworthy, but for the rest of us punters 'Hard' is any grade you haven't reached yet. I think in the UK in general 'E2' has a certain amount of significance because there are so many classic and high quality routes at that grade ( though in the Peak you might make a similar argument for HVS ).
I've often heard it said that physical training is only really necessary at around E4 or so, though that's going to differ from climber to climber. It's certainly a lot easier to improve physical fitness than it is technique.
As for 34 being too old? FFS...
> No although by modern standards I'm not sure that E2 qualifies as hard.
Certainly not newsworthy, but for the rest of us punters 'Hard' is any grade you haven't reached yet. I think in the UK in general 'E2' has a certain amount of significance because there are so many classic and high quality routes at that grade ( though in the Peak you might make a similar argument for HVS ).
I've often heard it said that physical training is only really necessary at around E4 or so, though that's going to differ from climber to climber. It's certainly a lot easier to improve physical fitness than it is technique.
As for 34 being too old? FFS...
2
In reply to planetmarshall:
It just that you see all there olympians and footballers retiring in their mid 30s. So I wondered whether there is something happens to our bodies at that point which means that no matter what level you're at you can not longer progress
It just that you see all there olympians and footballers retiring in their mid 30s. So I wondered whether there is something happens to our bodies at that point which means that no matter what level you're at you can not longer progress
In reply to Noo Noo:
I have been doing similar in the wall.
It has been lifestyle holding me back for the past 10yrs.
Now I'm in my 30s I feel more focused to succeed in sport than I did in my 20s pre kids. I was concentrating on my career then. (And partying!)
Im now in a position were I have more free time. I just hope I have the physical ability to push myself
I have been doing similar in the wall.
It has been lifestyle holding me back for the past 10yrs.
Now I'm in my 30s I feel more focused to succeed in sport than I did in my 20s pre kids. I was concentrating on my career then. (And partying!)
Im now in a position were I have more free time. I just hope I have the physical ability to push myself
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Both of those are very different sports, with very different levels of training and types of fitness needed to achieve world class competitive levels, and there's also a commercial element to why people retire from professional sports.
Yes of course there's limits to what bodies can do at certain ages, but you're not asking if at 34 you can break the world record at 100m, or play professional football, you're asking if you can lead E1/2. It's the equivalent of asking if you can run a reasonable timed half marathon or play in a Sunday football league with some friends.
Both of those are very different sports, with very different levels of training and types of fitness needed to achieve world class competitive levels, and there's also a commercial element to why people retire from professional sports.
Yes of course there's limits to what bodies can do at certain ages, but you're not asking if at 34 you can break the world record at 100m, or play professional football, you're asking if you can lead E1/2. It's the equivalent of asking if you can run a reasonable timed half marathon or play in a Sunday football league with some friends.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Various issues to consider:
Are you endomorph / ectomorph ? Many just give in if the struggle for bodyweigth is too much
What is your pain threshold ? a bit of masochism helps
Whats yourr attention / boredom span ? training requires an onsessive mindset if taken seriously
Location ? good access to the crags makes it easier
The right partners ? people who will help you get up
In the end it could just be motivation - how much you really want it - perhaps you have too much satisfaction elsewhere in your life ??
Various issues to consider:
Are you endomorph / ectomorph ? Many just give in if the struggle for bodyweigth is too much
What is your pain threshold ? a bit of masochism helps
Whats yourr attention / boredom span ? training requires an onsessive mindset if taken seriously
Location ? good access to the crags makes it easier
The right partners ? people who will help you get up
In the end it could just be motivation - how much you really want it - perhaps you have too much satisfaction elsewhere in your life ??
1
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I'm 56 and only started back in 2010 - got my first couple of E1's onsight a couple of years back - I'm not particularly motivated and live in Sussex so my trad trips are not that regular.
As Mr Ward states it's just a case of how much do I want this (and of course why).
Oh and btw - I'm a bit chubby as well
I'm 56 and only started back in 2010 - got my first couple of E1's onsight a couple of years back - I'm not particularly motivated and live in Sussex so my trad trips are not that regular.
As Mr Ward states it's just a case of how much do I want this (and of course why).
Oh and btw - I'm a bit chubby as well
Post edited at 09:20
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
No idea what people are disliking about your post.
If you put the effort in and actively pursue your goals which assuming you're stuck in your ways probably means new partners, a significant increase in volume and quality of climbing and some cross training for flexibility and fitness then your age is no barrier. You might find the training more frustrating, slower to produce results and faster to produce injury that you would have at 20 but that's life, you can work around that and frankly, your goals are modest.
Plateaus in progress occur for a variety of reasons, age is not likely to be the first, second or third you come up against. The trick is identifying what is holding you back an how to get past it, one problem at a time.
jk
No idea what people are disliking about your post.
If you put the effort in and actively pursue your goals which assuming you're stuck in your ways probably means new partners, a significant increase in volume and quality of climbing and some cross training for flexibility and fitness then your age is no barrier. You might find the training more frustrating, slower to produce results and faster to produce injury that you would have at 20 but that's life, you can work around that and frankly, your goals are modest.
Plateaus in progress occur for a variety of reasons, age is not likely to be the first, second or third you come up against. The trick is identifying what is holding you back an how to get past it, one problem at a time.
jk
Post edited at 09:29
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
34, old????
Having a positive attitude, rather than seeing age as a negative thing would be a good start in getting to the level that you want. If you feel that you are capable of pushing yourself (mentally and/or physically), then the grade you want to be at is definitely achievable.
34, old????
Having a positive attitude, rather than seeing age as a negative thing would be a good start in getting to the level that you want. If you feel that you are capable of pushing yourself (mentally and/or physically), then the grade you want to be at is definitely achievable.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I'm 32 and still progressing in grades, I mainly just boulder these days but I'm still getting stronger and ticking another grade each year for the last couple of years, currently maxing out about font 7C/+. You're far from past it.
I'm 32 and still progressing in grades, I mainly just boulder these days but I'm still getting stronger and ticking another grade each year for the last couple of years, currently maxing out about font 7C/+. You're far from past it.
Post edited at 10:29
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I was your age when I started. I can say for sure that if you are keen and healthy, E1/E2 is a very achieveable goal for a 'weekend warrior' especially if you are going to be close to climbing rather than starting in Cambridge like I did with hardly any climbing facilities.
I was your age when I started. I can say for sure that if you are keen and healthy, E1/E2 is a very achieveable goal for a 'weekend warrior' especially if you are going to be close to climbing rather than starting in Cambridge like I did with hardly any climbing facilities.
In reply to planetmarshall:
And area to area. Certain thuggish grit HVS's come to mind.
> I've often heard it said that physical training is only really necessary at around E4 or so, though that's going to differ from climber to climber.
And area to area. Certain thuggish grit HVS's come to mind.
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
check out this link from Eric Horst http://trainingforclimbing.com/aging-is-mostly-a-state-of-body/
age is not an excuse it should really be a reason to train
check out this link from Eric Horst http://trainingforclimbing.com/aging-is-mostly-a-state-of-body/
age is not an excuse it should really be a reason to train
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
A late friend was putting up new E4's in the sixth months before he died in his mid-60's. it's as much a head game as fitness. Oh and I had 12 years away from climbing but last year was developing a new crag with HVS 4c routes at 58 and only a year after breaking a femur off piste skiing. Just go for it, cos if you don't now you won't tomorrow.
A late friend was putting up new E4's in the sixth months before he died in his mid-60's. it's as much a head game as fitness. Oh and I had 12 years away from climbing but last year was developing a new crag with HVS 4c routes at 58 and only a year after breaking a femur off piste skiing. Just go for it, cos if you don't now you won't tomorrow.
Post edited at 11:52
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Did you see this recent thread: Too Old to Climb hard?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=659046
Did you see this recent thread: Too Old to Climb hard?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=659046
In reply to JayPee630:
Surely that depends on the person? Leading E2 would be a massive acheivement for me, however for my husband, not so much
Surely that depends on the person? Leading E2 would be a massive acheivement for me, however for my husband, not so much
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Yes it does depend. And it's a massive achievement but that's different to meaning it's not possible. And then thinking it's not possible cos you're 34 is another thing...
Basically short of some physical issue that is going to practically stop you being able to do it with some work and commitment you will, and would be the same at 64 rather than 34. The age thing you mention is a red herring.
Yes it does depend. And it's a massive achievement but that's different to meaning it's not possible. And then thinking it's not possible cos you're 34 is another thing...
Basically short of some physical issue that is going to practically stop you being able to do it with some work and commitment you will, and would be the same at 64 rather than 34. The age thing you mention is a red herring.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
no but its evidently a question that can be simply answered - 34 is clearly not too old!
no but its evidently a question that can be simply answered - 34 is clearly not too old!
1
In reply to Bulls Crack:
Of course, it all depends on one's fitness and how much time one can devote to climbing (which again depends to some extent on personal and career circumstances as they change/vary). I was at my best climbing fitness and climbing at my hardest when I was aged 18, 20, 27, 32-33, and (probably my very best) 43-45. Between those high points, I dropped 1 1/2 to 2 adjectival grades.
> no but its evidently a question that can be simply answered - 34 is clearly not too old!
Of course, it all depends on one's fitness and how much time one can devote to climbing (which again depends to some extent on personal and career circumstances as they change/vary). I was at my best climbing fitness and climbing at my hardest when I was aged 18, 20, 27, 32-33, and (probably my very best) 43-45. Between those high points, I dropped 1 1/2 to 2 adjectival grades.
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
You are being utterly ridiculous. I once knew a guy who didn't even start rock climbing till he was 63 and he went on to climb E2's. I myself didn't start till I was 43 and I've done a few E1's and I'm not a very dedicated climber by any means, I'm much more of a scrambler.
You are being utterly ridiculous. I once knew a guy who didn't even start rock climbing till he was 63 and he went on to climb E2's. I myself didn't start till I was 43 and I've done a few E1's and I'm not a very dedicated climber by any means, I'm much more of a scrambler.
Post edited at 18:19
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I'm 58 in a week or so and as strong as I was in my mid thirties - just not the same power to weight. I am going to climb my first 8a this year - well, have as good a go at it as I can.
If I was 34 again with today's knowledge of how to train available I'd be thinking of training as hard as time allowed to see what I could do.
I'm 58 in a week or so and as strong as I was in my mid thirties - just not the same power to weight. I am going to climb my first 8a this year - well, have as good a go at it as I can.
If I was 34 again with today's knowledge of how to train available I'd be thinking of training as hard as time allowed to see what I could do.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
pretty much as everyone says. You'll only know what you can do when you give it a go. You can then work on those weaknesses and get better.
Having "rested" for a while things will be different but there's absolutely no reason not to go for it in my opinion. You may surprise yourself!
pretty much as everyone says. You'll only know what you can do when you give it a go. You can then work on those weaknesses and get better.
Having "rested" for a while things will be different but there's absolutely no reason not to go for it in my opinion. You may surprise yourself!
In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:
I admire you immensely, and can see that this is a special kind of climbing life story that has its own particular magic. But for those of us who were fortunate enough to discover rock climbing when we were 16 years old, nothing, absolutely nothing that came later, can equal the magic and intensity of those early climbing years between about the ages of 16 and 20.
One of the sadder? things about life is that we do just change as we get older, we become different people. I really do not feel that I'm the same person I was even 20 years ago. At heart, yes, but physically and even psychologically no. So many things have 'moved on'. But I'm finding life at least as interesting in other ways now, but not through climbing. New tastes, new interests. Maybe it's just me, but I suspect not.
> You are being utterly ridiculous. I once knew a guy who didn't even start rock climbing till he was 63 and he went on to climb E2's. I myself didn't start till I was 43 and I've done a few E1's and I'm not a very dedicated climber by any means, I'm much more of a scrambler.
I admire you immensely, and can see that this is a special kind of climbing life story that has its own particular magic. But for those of us who were fortunate enough to discover rock climbing when we were 16 years old, nothing, absolutely nothing that came later, can equal the magic and intensity of those early climbing years between about the ages of 16 and 20.
One of the sadder? things about life is that we do just change as we get older, we become different people. I really do not feel that I'm the same person I was even 20 years ago. At heart, yes, but physically and even psychologically no. So many things have 'moved on'. But I'm finding life at least as interesting in other ways now, but not through climbing. New tastes, new interests. Maybe it's just me, but I suspect not.
Post edited at 22:06
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Reading quickly through these replies, I see that typically UKC, no one talks about mountaineering. At 34 you should just be beginning to move into your best period. It might mean mean that you should have taken things more seriously before but E1s and 2s on British rock are but a small part of what the climbing game is about. Get out and look at the mountains and discover there is something bigger for you to enjoy and achieve.
Reading quickly through these replies, I see that typically UKC, no one talks about mountaineering. At 34 you should just be beginning to move into your best period. It might mean mean that you should have taken things more seriously before but E1s and 2s on British rock are but a small part of what the climbing game is about. Get out and look at the mountains and discover there is something bigger for you to enjoy and achieve.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
i've been climbing on and off for 30+ years (48 now) and have ticked more E1s in my fortys then all the years before put together. With the right mindset and picking routes that suit your style removes any age barrier.
More than anything else though, I enjoy mountain routes of modest grade and simply enjoy the climbing and banter with the stress of hard routes removed. Crag days tend to be much more competitive.
Get comfy at leading VS and you'll have great days anywhere with options to step up a gear onto harder (but safe routes) when you feel good.
i've been climbing on and off for 30+ years (48 now) and have ticked more E1s in my fortys then all the years before put together. With the right mindset and picking routes that suit your style removes any age barrier.
More than anything else though, I enjoy mountain routes of modest grade and simply enjoy the climbing and banter with the stress of hard routes removed. Crag days tend to be much more competitive.
Get comfy at leading VS and you'll have great days anywhere with options to step up a gear onto harder (but safe routes) when you feel good.
2
In reply to jcw:
British rock are but a small part of what the climbing game is about.
For you maybe but not for everybody. We're on a forum called ukclimbing and you're surprised that people are replying from a 'climbing in the U.K.' Perspective?
> Reading quickly through these replies, I see that typically UKC, no one talks about mountaineering.
Well, the Op did mention it right from the off, but confide ring he was specifically asking about improving his grade it's understandable that people replied with that in mind. British rock are but a small part of what the climbing game is about.
For you maybe but not for everybody. We're on a forum called ukclimbing and you're surprised that people are replying from a 'climbing in the U.K.' Perspective?
1
In reply to DragonsDoExist: i find this post worrying!!! You are 34 not 104 some would say a prime age, there are climbers around that are still putting up nasty stuff or repeating it well into their 50s some even older.
2
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I don't know why this is thread getting so many dislikes. Train hard over the next couple of months getting fit for the season, find a couple of supportive partners with experience and get on it. You will easily get E1 this year with some luck, good weather and staying injury free!! Best of luck to you.
I don't know why this is thread getting so many dislikes. Train hard over the next couple of months getting fit for the season, find a couple of supportive partners with experience and get on it. You will easily get E1 this year with some luck, good weather and staying injury free!! Best of luck to you.
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1
In reply to Scott K:
You probably don't even need to train - just climb lots (with better climbers if possible)
You probably don't even need to train - just climb lots (with better climbers if possible)
3
In reply to deacondeacon:
No, merely a bit disappointed. The point I am making is that at 34 one is moving into the age when the combination of strength, stamina and experience is often optimal and this is reflected in doing big long routes with commitment. This used to be the case with many British Alpinists (someone mentioned Rab, look what he did). And even if the discussion is confined to the UK Scotland is (still) a part of it. Scottish winter requires just those characteristics I'm talking about, while its summer climbing can likewise be very demanding if you chose the high up or remote routes. Likewise Wales where many of the great high "mountain" routes have been abandoned because it is too much effort to get to them and the routes long and frequently committing. While there are some replying on this thread who certainly can attest to this, I felt it was desirable to develop another aspect in replying to the OP. Sure, having fun is what it is all about at the end of the day, but in climbing it is a cumulative experience which includes elements which are at the time far from amusing.
No, merely a bit disappointed. The point I am making is that at 34 one is moving into the age when the combination of strength, stamina and experience is often optimal and this is reflected in doing big long routes with commitment. This used to be the case with many British Alpinists (someone mentioned Rab, look what he did). And even if the discussion is confined to the UK Scotland is (still) a part of it. Scottish winter requires just those characteristics I'm talking about, while its summer climbing can likewise be very demanding if you chose the high up or remote routes. Likewise Wales where many of the great high "mountain" routes have been abandoned because it is too much effort to get to them and the routes long and frequently committing. While there are some replying on this thread who certainly can attest to this, I felt it was desirable to develop another aspect in replying to the OP. Sure, having fun is what it is all about at the end of the day, but in climbing it is a cumulative experience which includes elements which are at the time far from amusing.
Post edited at 11:56
1
1
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
You sound like me most of my climbing life which began in the 80s - just climbing, socialising, mainly trad, enjoying being in nice places and big days out but never climbed hard - leading VS with the odd carefully selected HVS. Did a few weights in the gym in the winter to keep a bit of fitness, but climbing walls were v primitive back then so that wasn't an exciting option. Came back to climbing 10 years ago at the age of 50 after an extended layoff, and gradually got back to a similar standard as before, just by climbing a lot, both indoors and out.
Then as the big Six-Oh was looming I decided to set myself the goal of leading an E1 before I was 60. I followed (kind of) a training plan for 20 months, which for me was bloody hard as I'd never really done any training before, climbed a lot more brilliant HVSs, and eventually got my E1. With 2 months to spare
Obviously if I'd gone for this in my 30s or 40s I likely would have made quicker progress and achieved greater gains, and crucially had fewer set-backs, as older bodies tend to be more prone to injury and recover less quickly. But could I have been arsed? That's the key.
You sound like me most of my climbing life which began in the 80s - just climbing, socialising, mainly trad, enjoying being in nice places and big days out but never climbed hard - leading VS with the odd carefully selected HVS. Did a few weights in the gym in the winter to keep a bit of fitness, but climbing walls were v primitive back then so that wasn't an exciting option. Came back to climbing 10 years ago at the age of 50 after an extended layoff, and gradually got back to a similar standard as before, just by climbing a lot, both indoors and out.
Then as the big Six-Oh was looming I decided to set myself the goal of leading an E1 before I was 60. I followed (kind of) a training plan for 20 months, which for me was bloody hard as I'd never really done any training before, climbed a lot more brilliant HVSs, and eventually got my E1. With 2 months to spare
Obviously if I'd gone for this in my 30s or 40s I likely would have made quicker progress and achieved greater gains, and crucially had fewer set-backs, as older bodies tend to be more prone to injury and recover less quickly. But could I have been arsed? That's the key.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I always have a quiet chuckle when this age thing comes up on here time and time again. Ask Roger Federer whether he is too old at 35. (Sorry, wrong sport!) I am sure you would get blown a sizeable Swiss raspberry! I started climbing at the age of 23 (nearly 50 years ago). Was climbing E1 within a year (when it was a real grade) and have hardly ever dropped below that since. I plateaued for years and then climbed at my hardest in my 40's regularly leading E4 and seconding E5 (admittedly very modest by modern standards, but then I was only climbing one day every other weekend and doing no training!). At the moment , having just passed three score and twelve years 2 weeks ago and still coming back from breaking my foot on The Old Man of Hoy in 2015 after operations and a lot of physio (I finished the climb and the walk out after the injury) I am contemplating whether I can at least get up to leading E3 again this year. And of course I forgot to mention the two shoulder operations 18 months ago. At 34 you shouldn't even have to think about it let alone asking everybody else's opinion. Just go out and do it.
I always have a quiet chuckle when this age thing comes up on here time and time again. Ask Roger Federer whether he is too old at 35. (Sorry, wrong sport!) I am sure you would get blown a sizeable Swiss raspberry! I started climbing at the age of 23 (nearly 50 years ago). Was climbing E1 within a year (when it was a real grade) and have hardly ever dropped below that since. I plateaued for years and then climbed at my hardest in my 40's regularly leading E4 and seconding E5 (admittedly very modest by modern standards, but then I was only climbing one day every other weekend and doing no training!). At the moment , having just passed three score and twelve years 2 weeks ago and still coming back from breaking my foot on The Old Man of Hoy in 2015 after operations and a lot of physio (I finished the climb and the walk out after the injury) I am contemplating whether I can at least get up to leading E3 again this year. And of course I forgot to mention the two shoulder operations 18 months ago. At 34 you shouldn't even have to think about it let alone asking everybody else's opinion. Just go out and do it.
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1
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Oh dear god. No, you are a spring chicken. Now stop giving us excuses before you've tried, get organised, get training and most importantly get on the rock. Usually the only inhibitor in life is yourself. There are people with limbs missing who climb at the level you aspire to. Sure you've got a kid - so have loads of others. So unless you have a limb missing...
Oh dear god. No, you are a spring chicken. Now stop giving us excuses before you've tried, get organised, get training and most importantly get on the rock. Usually the only inhibitor in life is yourself. There are people with limbs missing who climb at the level you aspire to. Sure you've got a kid - so have loads of others. So unless you have a limb missing...
2
In reply to jcw:
I'm not sure I understand? The majority of my climbing is done in the UK mountains, I do as much scrambling in the mountains as I can and have done many uk mountian routes at vd/s level but unfortunately these days I just dont have as much spare time as the kids are a priority on the weekends.
But I didn't need to mention any of this as my post was specific to climbing harder grades.
I'm not sure I understand? The majority of my climbing is done in the UK mountains, I do as much scrambling in the mountains as I can and have done many uk mountian routes at vd/s level but unfortunately these days I just dont have as much spare time as the kids are a priority on the weekends.
But I didn't need to mention any of this as my post was specific to climbing harder grades.
1
In reply to hazeysunshine:
Good effort
It's not that I've never been arsed, it's that I've always gone out with enjoyment and socialising in mind, both inside & out. I've never been to a gym, and have never seen myself as someone who needs to train as I was happy with what I could do.
But now I have more time on my hands I'm thinking that I could actually make the most of it and do some training, to improve my grade.
Good effort
It's not that I've never been arsed, it's that I've always gone out with enjoyment and socialising in mind, both inside & out. I've never been to a gym, and have never seen myself as someone who needs to train as I was happy with what I could do.
But now I have more time on my hands I'm thinking that I could actually make the most of it and do some training, to improve my grade.
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I think what people are saying is dont worry about your age climb as much as possible and the age should be irelevant. (I have a young family too and am based in essex ) so i feel your pain and have plateaued for years due to lack of partners and time climbing, im moving north again in May and aim to tick E1 by the end of summer, im 43!
Climb more and itll come for both of us!!
I think what people are saying is dont worry about your age climb as much as possible and the age should be irelevant. (I have a young family too and am based in essex ) so i feel your pain and have plateaued for years due to lack of partners and time climbing, im moving north again in May and aim to tick E1 by the end of summer, im 43!
Climb more and itll come for both of us!!
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I peaked a couple of years ago and am already noticing a steady decline at 33 as the ravages of time take their toll
I'd say there is little to no hope for you and suggest golf and/or lawn bowls as a graceful way out
I peaked a couple of years ago and am already noticing a steady decline at 33 as the ravages of time take their toll
I'd say there is little to no hope for you and suggest golf and/or lawn bowls as a graceful way out
4
In reply to Richard Hession:
Erm Richard, I suspect you peaked at a standard which 95% of us can only dream about and that your graceful decline will involve many modern classics which (again!) we can only dream about.
'Sometimes I could see the holds... but not the problem' (Pat Ament)
Mick
Erm Richard, I suspect you peaked at a standard which 95% of us can only dream about and that your graceful decline will involve many modern classics which (again!) we can only dream about.
'Sometimes I could see the holds... but not the problem' (Pat Ament)
Mick
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
"I just dont have as much spare time as the kids are a priority on the weekends. But I didn't need to mention any of this as my post was specific to climbing harder grades."
I mentioned in my reply that I climbed my hardest in my forties. In fact I climbed E3 for the first time when I was 40. That was 1985 when that grade, arguably, was more of an achievement than it is now. At that time I had two sons of 5 and 3 respectively. I only climbed, at most one day every other weekend. In fact the arrangement was every other weekend followed by the third weekend after that if I was lucky. I then went on to improve on that. The only training I did was on the back of a ladder up to my kids' tree camp in the garden. It is so much easier nowadays with the proliferation of indoor walls. No excuses you should be romping up E5 or 7a minimum!
"I just dont have as much spare time as the kids are a priority on the weekends. But I didn't need to mention any of this as my post was specific to climbing harder grades."
I mentioned in my reply that I climbed my hardest in my forties. In fact I climbed E3 for the first time when I was 40. That was 1985 when that grade, arguably, was more of an achievement than it is now. At that time I had two sons of 5 and 3 respectively. I only climbed, at most one day every other weekend. In fact the arrangement was every other weekend followed by the third weekend after that if I was lucky. I then went on to improve on that. The only training I did was on the back of a ladder up to my kids' tree camp in the garden. It is so much easier nowadays with the proliferation of indoor walls. No excuses you should be romping up E5 or 7a minimum!
Post edited at 09:53
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In reply to Mick Ward:
Sorry Mick, but I'm not sure your version makes much sense. I thought the quote was, 'I could grasp the holds but not the problem'.
Sorry Mick, but I'm not sure your version makes much sense. I thought the quote was, 'I could grasp the holds but not the problem'.
In reply to John2:
Hi John,
I think you're right. (Apologies to all.) 'Grasp' is certainly much better than 'see'. Interestingly, some months ago, I had a discussion with Pat Ament on Facebook about exactly this subject. (Eek, did I get it wrong then?) I mentioned that, in Yorkshire in the 70s, although everyone loved the quote, folk would shuffle up to me regularly and mutter, "Yeah, but what's it mean?" (I was reputed to be some literary figure who understood arcane stuff; how wrong can you be!)
Pat argued that sometimes the best lines have a teasing quality, an extra layer of meaning that you can't quite touch. I wholeheartedly agreed. You probably best see this in Dylan lyrics; I think he's always loved 'ole Bob.
It's a great line - but much better if you get it right! Mea culpa.
Mick
Hi John,
I think you're right. (Apologies to all.) 'Grasp' is certainly much better than 'see'. Interestingly, some months ago, I had a discussion with Pat Ament on Facebook about exactly this subject. (Eek, did I get it wrong then?) I mentioned that, in Yorkshire in the 70s, although everyone loved the quote, folk would shuffle up to me regularly and mutter, "Yeah, but what's it mean?" (I was reputed to be some literary figure who understood arcane stuff; how wrong can you be!)
Pat argued that sometimes the best lines have a teasing quality, an extra layer of meaning that you can't quite touch. I wholeheartedly agreed. You probably best see this in Dylan lyrics; I think he's always loved 'ole Bob.
It's a great line - but much better if you get it right! Mea culpa.
Mick
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In reply to Pete:
I'm afraid life with small children as a dad is very much different from life as a mum.
I'm not however making excuses. I'm stating that there have been issues I have which have stopped me getting out in the past (ever exclusively breastfed?) I am now in a position where I can get out more, kids are 7 & 3,
I'm afraid life with small children as a dad is very much different from life as a mum.
I'm not however making excuses. I'm stating that there have been issues I have which have stopped me getting out in the past (ever exclusively breastfed?) I am now in a position where I can get out more, kids are 7 & 3,
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
HaHa - I wonder how many of us just assumed you were a man (I did)!? I imagine it's very different as a mum with small children. It shouldn't be, I suppose, in this time of enlightenment, but it is, I'm sure. However, the fact still remains that 34 is no age, and no reason for not improving grade (and still enjoying all that entails) Climb on!
HaHa - I wonder how many of us just assumed you were a man (I did)!? I imagine it's very different as a mum with small children. It shouldn't be, I suppose, in this time of enlightenment, but it is, I'm sure. However, the fact still remains that 34 is no age, and no reason for not improving grade (and still enjoying all that entails) Climb on!
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In reply to HB1:
Ha. I was one of those that made that assumption. How very sexist of us. But yep I agree there is no reason for not improving.
Ha. I was one of those that made that assumption. How very sexist of us. But yep I agree there is no reason for not improving.
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
(ever exclusively breastfed?)
No I can't say I've tried that. But apologies for making the wrong assumptions and good luck with your efforts. As I said you don't have to devote huge amounts of time to it to get results.
(ever exclusively breastfed?)
No I can't say I've tried that. But apologies for making the wrong assumptions and good luck with your efforts. As I said you don't have to devote huge amounts of time to it to get results.
In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I didn't start climbing until I was 30, and climbed first E3 and f7a at 38.
a lot of climbing has very little to do with raw strength, but balance, movement and poise on the rock. these are all very easy things to work on regardless of age. As I've gotten older I've found they get more important
the people I started climbing with were all in their 50's and climbed HVS - E3 regularly. they taught me many "tricks" to climbing. these tricks were mainly "stand on your feet" and "have you tried climbing with a bit of grace?".
I don't train on finger boards or circuits or anything but have found just getting a lot of climbing done when I can and concentrating on moving nicely keeps me injury free and improving.
And whenever I see angela soper climb I know I can always get better
enjoy it
I didn't start climbing until I was 30, and climbed first E3 and f7a at 38.
a lot of climbing has very little to do with raw strength, but balance, movement and poise on the rock. these are all very easy things to work on regardless of age. As I've gotten older I've found they get more important
the people I started climbing with were all in their 50's and climbed HVS - E3 regularly. they taught me many "tricks" to climbing. these tricks were mainly "stand on your feet" and "have you tried climbing with a bit of grace?".
I don't train on finger boards or circuits or anything but have found just getting a lot of climbing done when I can and concentrating on moving nicely keeps me injury free and improving.
And whenever I see angela soper climb I know I can always get better
enjoy it
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
you're not feeling old...you're feeling tired! At least, there's hope as age may well mean incurable tiredness.
Climb any time you can. Don't climb when exhausted as injury will cost time. Find partners who share the same goals. Have a couple of partners that climb at aspirational grades. If at all possible go to a climbing wall regularly (even commit a regular schedule if childcare can be arranged). If the climbing wall is far or just if you can build a board at home (plus kids love using them). Never lose sight of the fact that you do it because you enjoy it (sometimes delayed gratification feels very delayed).
The thing is it's not all about the grade you climb at, it's also how much climbing has become part of who you are. A late acquaintance of mine once described me as a "lifer". I have come to realise how true he was. I am a respectable climber (gradewise) but hardly nothing to write home about. I enjoy what I do, I enjoy the little respect that I have in my climbing circles and like everyone else I desperately try to get better (and fail to do so mostly with a smile on my face). But what are my alternatives? Take other sports up? Why not? Truth is, I am not just a "lifer", I am an "addicted lifer". The idea of not climbing is abhorrent.I have two nippers and I am a pretty selfish dad at times.
> I was think more about whether I have any chance of improving much more, rather than being too old to do harder routes. If you've been climbing at a certain level in your mid 20s I'd expect you'd be climbing that level still in your mid 30s (bar injury and stuff) but would you be able to push that grade successfully in your mid 30s? I guess so! I guess I'm just feeling old!
you're not feeling old...you're feeling tired! At least, there's hope as age may well mean incurable tiredness.
Climb any time you can. Don't climb when exhausted as injury will cost time. Find partners who share the same goals. Have a couple of partners that climb at aspirational grades. If at all possible go to a climbing wall regularly (even commit a regular schedule if childcare can be arranged). If the climbing wall is far or just if you can build a board at home (plus kids love using them). Never lose sight of the fact that you do it because you enjoy it (sometimes delayed gratification feels very delayed).
The thing is it's not all about the grade you climb at, it's also how much climbing has become part of who you are. A late acquaintance of mine once described me as a "lifer". I have come to realise how true he was. I am a respectable climber (gradewise) but hardly nothing to write home about. I enjoy what I do, I enjoy the little respect that I have in my climbing circles and like everyone else I desperately try to get better (and fail to do so mostly with a smile on my face). But what are my alternatives? Take other sports up? Why not? Truth is, I am not just a "lifer", I am an "addicted lifer". The idea of not climbing is abhorrent.I have two nippers and I am a pretty selfish dad at times.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
I wish I was 34 again - so many years infront of you - I still getting up E2s at 65.
I wish I was 34 again - so many years infront of you - I still getting up E2s at 65.
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In reply to DragonsDoExist:
Here's a thing. Following the article on Seb Bouin, I read the article linked below the video.
Here: http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/experience-story?cid=seb-bouin-si...
Seb's mother is 48 and has been climbing with focus for approx. 11 years. She sent her first 8a+ at Verdon Gorge last year. He thinks her issue is mental and that she will progress to climb harder still. There are no excuses, just passion and desire or lack of. Admittedly, they are surrounded by an abundance of amazing rock and routes but it's all relative I guess. Best of luck
Here's a thing. Following the article on Seb Bouin, I read the article linked below the video.
Here: http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/experience-story?cid=seb-bouin-si...
Seb's mother is 48 and has been climbing with focus for approx. 11 years. She sent her first 8a+ at Verdon Gorge last year. He thinks her issue is mental and that she will progress to climb harder still. There are no excuses, just passion and desire or lack of. Admittedly, they are surrounded by an abundance of amazing rock and routes but it's all relative I guess. Best of luck
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