UKC

After discovering last year that crack climbing can actually be fun, I'm trying to get in some practice ahead of a trip to Yosemite later this year. I've purchased some Ocun crack-climbing gloves (https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/ocun-crack-gloves-climbing-gloves/?aid=d349511... which are great for protecting the backs of my hands.

However, my hands are still getting scraped to buggery at the base of my thumbs, and on their outer edges, which the gloves don't cover. This seems to be worst when fist jamming with the backs of my hands facing me. No doubt, this is partly due to poor technique, but I'm struggling to get the practise in to improve with my hands getting so sore. And, yes, I have soft, girly hands, which will take some time to toughen up.

Are there other gloves anyone would recommend, which cover more of the hand? Or should I try a combination of taping and the gloves? Would love to hear others' experiences.

In reply to Pink Marshmallow:

The secret with jamming is to put your hand in and leave it in place. "Furkling" it about in an effort to achieve better grip is what causes the damage. Avoiding doing this is of course easier in theory than practice.

Al

In reply to Pink Marshmallow:

Gardening gloves with the fingers cut off.

Picked up that tip from watching a wideboyz video and what they don't know about jamming ain't worth knowing.

In reply to GridNorth:


Adding to that ( from an even greater maestro , JB no less )

Put your hand in the crack in what looks like the best place, then look away or close your eyes whilst you get the optimal placement.

In reply to Pink Marshmallow:
Thanks all. I may try gardening gloves, although I've never found a pair that aren't huge on me. Perhaps some tough cycling gloves could work.

Whilst I've largely got the hang of the 'insert and don't move' thing with thinner cracks, the challenge I'm having with jamming is largely with cracks which are a bit wider than my fist, so I'm putting the fist in, discovering it's the wrong size, trying to wiggle around a bit to find a restriction, then trying various things with two hands, and then falling off.

I'm sure this is adding to the various cuts and scrapes, and will ease with time, but I would like something to save my skin as I go through that learning curve.

In reply to GridNorth:

'Furkling' is an excellent term. It makes me want to do it, just so I can say it.

In reply to Pink Marshmallow:


Fingerless yachty gloves are worth checking out too. Cycling gloves will probably have material on the areas you talk about, so no use.

In reply to Pink Marshmallow:

Tape gloves! I've climbed with a few people who'v used jamming gloves and they seem to get on fine for hand jamming, but fists really cut them up Also, on longer routes the wrist Velcro can chafe a lot. Whereas, a good tape glove is not only better protecting (you can cover all your own personal sore points), you also get a better feel for the rock.

Tape gloves take a bit of practice but I think they're the way to go.

In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
Or a combo: Tape your thumbs, and use crack gloves for the rest. At least, that is my favourite method for offwidth cracks that require fist stacks and similar horrors. For normal fist cracks, where the hand placements are usually more stable, I normally don´t bother with the tape and instead bleed a bit.

CB


edit: The advantage over tape gloves is mainly the cost: A pair of Czech crack gloves costs roughly the same as two or three rolls of good quality tape.

In reply to Pink Marshmallow:

This topic has made me want to go crack climbing less than ever. And I really never wanted to go before.

In reply to cb294:

I'm not that fussed about the cost. I've done a fair bit of "naked" jamming (hehe) but I really just enjoy it a lot more with just the right amount of tape. La Sportiva TC pros were just as big a revelation! Especially on granite.

In reply to Pink Marshmallow:

Thanks all - I think I'll try tape and gloves as my next combo, and will look into those shoes as well - might as well try to minimise the all-round discomfort.

In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

You are right, for a long day in the Alps with lots of crack pitches light taping is much better (especially if you plan on wearing proper gloves while belaying). For single pitch stuff e.g. on grit crags, I find crack gloves much more convenient.

CB