UKC

What would you do this week...

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 tjhare1 27 Feb 2017

Looking to exploit the font of all knowledge...

If you were heading up to Scotland for 3 or so days this week with somebody that you trusted in a mountaineering sense, but somebody that you had never been out in winter with, what would you be doing/where would you be heading?

Their background: completed a few respectable routes in the alps (Flèche Rousse, Kuffner, Mitellegi, Hornli, etc.). Never been out winter *climbing* but plenty of winter hill days and a lot of army experience bashing around. Ambitious (for better or for worse), strong, won't stop, mentally all-there...

My background: little Scottish time under my belt, but plenty of alpine ice/mixed up to WI5/M6 ish.

An anticipatory thanks to all useful contributors; to those that give snarky, unhelpful replies - don't expect a response.
Post edited at 09:26
 planetmarshall 27 Feb 2017
In reply to tjhare1:

Ice Factor.
8
 joem 27 Feb 2017
In reply to tjhare1:

If it was me I'd be headed for some of the classic ridges in the grade II/III kind of area, technically quite easy but allows a margin for significantly less than idea conditions that may be encountered.
 French Erick 27 Feb 2017
In reply to tjhare1:

I think there is a possibilty for some conditions coming particularly later in the week into the weekend. If fear of not getting up a route is not an issue a hard but well protected climb at whatever grade you feel confident. You would be carrying the bulk of responsibility so I would probably not exceed Overall V, but a well chosen V,7 could provide an exciting day out. There is one proviso that would change everything, verglas. Low down lots of black ice. Nothing is straight forward when encased in a thin layer of ice. I would drop to IV.
That is what I would do if I were in your boots (I am a very confident VI/VII climber and have done most of my climbing in Scotland to give you an idea).
 jas wood 28 Feb 2017
In reply to tjhare1:

Current conditions being as they are i would pick something like Deep Cut Chimney or Seam (both relatively 'safe') maybe to see how you get along then drop grade up grade depending on results. Route choice very important at the minute.

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