UKC

Attaching a bolt to fingerboard setup

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 guy127917 27 Feb 2017
I have a BM1000 mounted on two strips of 2x4 batons above a door. The strips are approx 8 inches wider than the fingerboard. I want to attach a bolt hangar to one or both sides of the batons to rig up a pulley system, but I don't really want to have to remove them from the wall first if possible. Does anyone know what kind of screw-in fixing I should use given the max depth and max load, say 500kg worst case (ie me jumping on it!?)?
 TonyB 27 Feb 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Is this just for assistance during one armed hangs or do you have something more complicated planned. If it's just for assistance, I use a part from a gate hook (£4 at B&Q) with 4 woodscrews. The most I've ever weighted it is 40 kg when warming up (i.e. using 20 kg assistance), I'm pretty sure this is fit for purpose and it's a very easy solution that wouldn't require taking the batons down. I wouldn't jump on mine though!
 AJM 27 Feb 2017
In reply to guy127917:

I used some eye plates from screwfix, and drilled some of the screws through into the wall behind and some just into the board on which the BM is mounted.

500kg seems quite high mind you - if the weight on the anchor is double the actual weight on the counterweight that seems like a crazy generous allowance for shock load (what are you planning to do that would generate shock load body force on that anchor? Admittedly I'm just using maybe up to 15kg counterweight on mine and you may have different ideas/uses)
 AJM 27 Feb 2017
In reply to TonyB:

Sounds fairly similar...
 Morgan Woods 27 Feb 2017
 jkarran 27 Feb 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Screwfix sell 12mm screws, they're designed for masonry but the threads are deep and they're tough. Either cut to length and install in a blind hole or drill through into the wall and make good later.

Alternatively drill the hanger for 3 or 4 countersunk wood screws of 5x50mm or just buy a screw on eye fixture from a hardware store.

Neither solution will reliably support 500kg, the softwood 2x4 is not tough enough. That said, unless you plan to do something absurd you're probably overestimating the load you will apply.

The nastiest solution is 5 or 6 sturdy countersunk screws in the 12mm bolt hole. Place the perimeter ones first so the tips splay out at ~30deg and the heads overlap the edge of the bolt hole. Drive the last one straight into the center to spread the rest out and lock them in place. It'll bear bodyweight and it's easy but it's nasty.
jk
Post edited at 11:37
OP guy127917 27 Feb 2017
In reply to jkarran:

Thanks for the responses. Hmm maybe I am massively over estimating. I was only thinking of using it for assistance but was thinking maybe I will get carried away in some way and end up shock loading it. If other people are using standard domestic screw in fixings I'll give that a go. I'll have a look and see what my local hardware store have with 2-4 wood screws.

Btw most pulley setups seem to use 2 pulleys- is this just to get the weight clear of the hanging climber or for some other reason?
 AJM 27 Feb 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Just to get it out of the way I think
 TonyB 27 Feb 2017
In reply to AJM:

> Sounds fairly similar...

Yes I think my "part from a gate hook" is almost certainly an eye plate.
 seankenny 05 Mar 2017
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Sorry to hijack this thread but quick question: how thick is the plywood you've mounted your board on?
OP guy127917 05 Mar 2017
In reply to seankenny:

It's not plywood it's 2 strips of 2" x 4" section timber
 seankenny 05 Mar 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks, however I was replying to Morgan! 2" seems quite thick, or am I confusing dimensions?
OP guy127917 05 Mar 2017
In reply to seankenny:

Well it allows it to stick out in front of the door frame, but it was all I had available at the time
OP guy127917 17 Mar 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Found some pretty adequate looking 4 screw fittings in b&q in the garage section. Pic for reference https://goo.gl/photos/JQw17caUsNZDGk8H9
 jkarran 17 Mar 2017
In reply to guy127917:

They'd probably be stronger turned 90deg but then they probably don't need to be any stronger.
jk
 ian caton 17 Mar 2017
In reply to guy127917:

... and what pulleys are best? Proper climbing pullies seem overkill and over expensive for the job.
 Morgan Woods 18 Mar 2017
In reply to seankenny:

It has been about 10 years since I put that in (and I no longer live there)....so from memory it was about the width of the architrave so prob. about 7/8 in thick. Definitely makes the board or rungs feel nice for hanging off. As the other poster mentioned the second pic is two thinner boards sandwiched together prob 2 x 3/8 in.
 Morgan Woods 18 Mar 2017
In reply to ian caton:

get one from a hardware shop or just the inside plastic bit from petzl:

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Pulleys/ULTRALEGERE#.WMx-98dlr7Y
OP guy127917 18 Mar 2017
In reply to ian caton:

I already have a couple for crevasse rescue, and you can get simple ones for about a tenner, but if you don't want to buy anything you can just use a carabiner. It will introduce a bit more friction in the system, so you might need to use a little less weight. Thats's good for the ego, only bad if you want to compare with someone else on a frictionless system. I had a rude awakening on the lattice test edge with a frictionless pulley vs BM1000 edge and a manky 11m rope over a rusty carabiner...
 ian caton 18 Mar 2017
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Thanks for reply. I have one of those, but not amazing. Think it needs proper oval krab to work properly. Thinking of trying eBay sailing stuff.
 seankenny 30 Mar 2017
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Didn't see this earlier, thanks!

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