UKC

Hi

I was wondering whether anyone has tried the (long-awaited) updated Beastmaker App? First impressions; it seems to be a lot easier than the last version, where the 5a was really difficult. By contrast, the 5a workout on the new one only has two sets, and no chisels/slopers. Finally I can manage a whole Beastmaker workout...

In reply to Fortran:

You can change the number of sets - far better for selecting a relevant workout IMO! Only flaw I've found is that the timer doesn't run in the backgroud, if you want to send a message or look at Facebook whilst resting for example.

In reply to ianstevens:

Ah not tried, that, I'll give it a go. It's easier, but not ridiculously so; I can climb up to 6b/c but the workouts for those grades still look pretty stiff

In reply to Fortran:


I find the same, but I can just about get through a set if I drop the reps down to 2 or 3 for each hang. Which I guess makes sense as it's (in theory) a near "max effort" style workout.

In reply to Fortran:

I tend to drop to 6 reps, symetrical a bit further up the grades where some of the hangs place left and right hands on different holds. Also 1 set is enough for my old arms and tend to round off with some other stuff. Have tried 3 pullups on every hold on board, works well and doesn't take too much time.

In reply to matthew jones:



I was wondering about this... are we meant to alternate hands on these sets? Not that I'm on the harder grades yet, but having a look it threw me off. I thought I would alternate anyway, just seemed weird to me.

In reply to Luke_92:

Yes, means L and R are on different holds (eg. open 4 on 2 different slopes at start of 6A. Hence 6 reps gives each hand same amount of work, also gives a minute on a set with 6 * 7 secs + 6 * 3 secs pause, if you are anal about that type of thing!
As a mate said (not a climber btw); Best tip for training is do something, and do it often...

Easy mantra to remember!

In reply to Fortran:

I've just ran the 5a for a looksee. It definitely has chisels (4 finger twice). I thought the back 2 started on the 7b workout before and does now? That said I've never done a routine, just worked my weaknesses so not disagreeing. I've looked to see what my hangs equated to as per the BM boys opinion.

In reply to Fishmate:

Chisel in the deep slots though, not the bottom crimps as I think it was before.

In reply to joeldering:

You sound convinced, more than I'm not at least. I seem to remember (which is not reliable the bottom crimps came in around the 6's.