/ Micro Rib

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williemilne - on 02 Mar 2017
I'm interested to know what other people think about the grading of Micro Rib on SCNL (assuming any other UKC users have done it)! For some reason it seems to be missing from the UKC list of climbs, despite being in the Glencoe guidebook. I climbed it yesterday in what admittedly were less than ideal conditions however even allowing for that, both my partner and I thought it was surprisingly tricky for a Grade III!

Having said that, It would be a great little route in good conditions and was a good "C" plan on the day, away from all the usual trade routes....
Erik B - on 09 Mar 2017
In reply to williemilne: Hi Willie, was a while ago now, but I recorded a first ascent of the actual rib at I think IV 5. The original grade III line is to the left of the rib crest and up a groove/ramp thing. On the route i remember a steep cracked wall/tower (crux). Hope that helps. ps its a short and safe easy route for the punters, maybe the corrie grade IV equivalent of dorsal arete, ideal for the more ambitious jeffrey

williemilne - on 10 Mar 2017
In reply to Erik B:

Thanks for getting back Erik. That's interesting because on reflection, I had started to think I had been off route. I'm now pretty sure we went up your route. Grade IV 5 sounds about right. The confusion I think arose because the actual route description says to start in a shallow groove "just" (a word open to interpretation!) left of steep lower rocks. I had a look round the corner but couldn't see anything obvious whereas at the toe of the rib there is a short groove formed by a detached block. I went for that but pretty soon found myself on the crest of the rib! I continued up that, generally towards the left then about two thirds up the pitch came to a small ledge on the left of the crest. From that I climbed a steep wall/tower which may be the bit you refer to, which led directly to the start of the short narrow arete at the end.
Erik B - on 10 Mar 2017
In reply to williemilne: good stuff Willie, think this photo shows the two lines. The original III route up the snowy groove left of the crest?, or the slabbier snowy ramp between that and the rib crest? Route i did was straight up the crest from the bottom.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8688/16778570582_fc1ee0630a_b.jpg

aside from my flippant crap jokes earlier, i vaguely remember the crux being tricky, steep moves up the tower wall trending left to right? falloffable?



williemilne - on 10 Mar 2017
In reply to williemilne:

Yes, original route presumably goes up the snowy groove. I went up the crest too, like I said veering very slightly left and the small ledge I mentioned I suspect is the lowest of the three snow patches in your photo, just left of the centre of the rib. So, maybe a slight variation on your route! I found the climbing pretty challenging however my limit is around Grade 5 on a good day! Not sure where that puts me relative to an ambitious Jeffrey!!!
French Erick - on 10 Mar 2017
In reply to williemilne:

we're all ambitious Jeffreys...nothing flippant about this Erik. Unfortunetaly some of us are much better Jeffreys than I am. I am a little envious at some folks' skills, perseverance and vision. Nice to hear from the likes of you Erik! How's things?
Erik B - on 10 Mar 2017
In reply to williemilne: i cant remember being so far left, basically I went straight up the rock rib crest, I didnt touch the 3 snow patches on the ramp thing.. only the snow patch on the rib I guess!

snow patch tastic! should call this thread Micro analysis of a route i did donkeys years ago and cant really remember

anyway, a good short wee technical route in a fine coire..thats the main thing

Allright Erick, yeah Im good, really enjoying life in paradise (highlands). hope yer well yourself? I see your doing some brilliant imaginative routes. standing out from the crowd

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