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Newbies in Peak District

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llani 03 Mar 2017
Hello everyone!

My partner my dog and I are planning to go to Peak District National Park this Easter. The problem is we don't know anything about this huge park. We want to go rock climbing and trekking around the park. We're spanish and we are not sure wich is the best place to spend this days. We also need to book some place to stay for 3 nights.

Can somebody help us pls? Any information will be useful

Thank you very much!
 Offwidth 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

Easter is a really good time. I hope the weather is good for you. If you are happy with non-bolted leader placed protection I'd go to the big name gritstone venues by preference: Stanage and Roaches in particular where climbing, bouldering and walking are wonderful. Unless you climb well into the 7s dont bother with the Peak sport climbing as it will make the gods cry. There are campsites (the most convenient being very close to Stanage and the Roaches) lots of bed and breakfast places and hotels depending on your budget. If you post when you are coming some people here might even meet you and show you around.
 brianjcooper 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:
Hi.
There are several good ROCKFAX climbing guides which may be useful to you. They all cover several crags
in the Peak District park for a variety of grades. Each one is plenty for 3 days.
1) Western Grit
2) Eastern Grit
3) Peak Limestone

Ordnance Survey maps of the Dark and White Peak will be good for walking.

1) Camping at North Leys (below Stanage Edge)
2) Bunk houses (Check the BMC)
3) Millstone and Scotsman Pack pubs are excellent for food and drink, but not cheap to stay in.

Hope some of this helps. Have a great time.
Post edited at 16:50
 GrahamD 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

I assume that you will have a car ? as others have said, the classic gritstone venues will give you plenty of climbing options. Personally, though, I'd opt to stay in one of the more scenic villages in what is known as the White Peak (limestone area) - somewhere like Tideswell.
llani 03 Mar 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Wow thank you very much, unfortunately we are not confidence with non-bolted, we are looking for easy bolted routes so we only have harness, rope and no so many more...

But thank you anyway, I think Stanage can be a good place
llani 03 Mar 2017
In reply to brianjcooper:

Thank you very much, I will check!
llani 03 Mar 2017
In reply to GrahamD:

Yes we have a car. I will check! Thank you very much!
 brianjcooper 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

Stanage Edge is 4 miles long and will keep you busy for years.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

> Hello everyone!My partner my dog and I are planning to go to Peak District National Park this Easter. The problem is we don't know anything about this huge park. We want to go rock climbing and trekking around the park. We're spanish and we are not sure wich is the best place to spend this days. We also need to book some place to stay for 3 nights.Can somebody help us pls? Any information will be useful Thank you very much!

The Peak District isn't huge - only c60km north to south and c35km east to west,

Chris
 brianjcooper 03 Mar 2017
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Spoil sport.
 starbug 03 Mar 2017
In reply to brianjcooper:

"we are looking for easy bolted routes so we only have harness, rope"

Stanage might not keep them busy at all?
 Trangia 03 Mar 2017
In reply to brianjcooper:

Agreed it's a fantastic crag, but unfortunately llani only climbs easy bolted routes and doesn't have any trad gear.

To llani, don't worry, the area is beautiful, with dramatic scenery, and there is some lovely walking there.
 Offwidth 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:
Easy bolted routes in the Peak are all on low quality limestone... they really are not worth it. Its like going to Paris and eating at McDonalds. I'm sure you will find plenty of people here to volunteer to help you sample the much better gritstone climbs and bouldering (where there are simply no bolts other than the odd historical oddity mainly on old aid lines or to descend from a few hard to downclimb pinnacles).
Post edited at 17:10
 deacondeacon 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:
I may get some dislikes for this but here goes.

You could buy a set of wires and some torque nuts/ hexes for about a £100. This would open up lots and lots of quality climbing which starts at very amenable grades.
I don't know the exact grade conversion but in vdiff terrain ( where there is an abundance of quality routes) you'd only be climbing about French 5+ (and quite often less).
Do you like bouldering? There is lots and lots of very good bouldering all over the peak. You could buy a pad and then sell it before you went home, or the climbing works rent them out.

The thought of someone travelling from Spain to go sport climbing in the Peak really is making me feel a bit nauseous, especially if you're climbing in the lower grades.
 Mick Ward 03 Mar 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

> Easy bolted routes in the Peak are all on low quality limestone... they really are not worth it. Its like going to Paris and eating at McDonalds. I'm sure you will find plenty of people here to volunteer to help you sample the much better gritstone climbs and bouldering...

Agree. That's what's needed for the OP. Would be great if some volunteers emerged. What about people doing MIA etc, logging days with non-paying clients?

Mick

P.S. To Llani - worth doing some walking too. Just going along the top of Stanage and back is great. Same with the Burbage valley. Loads and loads of great walks...
 Mick Ward 03 Mar 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Agree in principle - but, for three days only... they're going to struggle and it could well be very stressful.

Just think it's better if (competent!) people take them under their wing.

Mick
2
 brianjcooper 03 Mar 2017
In reply to Trangia:

True.

Much as I don't like top roping climbs, he could do that. Plenty of clubs do that anyway.
Just so long as he doesn't 'hog' them.
 brianjcooper 03 Mar 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

As sensible as ever Mick. Good call.
llani 03 Mar 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

I'm living in Swindon now don't worries, I don't came from spain
 Offwidth 03 Mar 2017
In reply to brianjcooper:

Top roping needs skills in setting up top anchors using slings, cams and nuts. Also maybe in handling those miserable trad climbers on the crag who turn their nose up... much better and way more fun if people helped them out. Also no need to buy anything that way, mats guidebooks or gear. As I said if the days are posted I don't think they will struggle for UKC friends to go along too.
 Trangia 03 Mar 2017
In reply to brianjcooper:

> True. Much as I don't like top roping climbs, he could do that. Plenty of clubs do that anyway.Just so long as he doesn't 'hog' them.

Great idea, so long as they have enough gear to set up anchors, which it sounds as though they haven't. Being realistic, someone who has only ever sport climbs is unlikely to know how to construct top roping anchors confidently?
llani 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

Maybe I didn't understand your answers...so I can't climbing in peak district with only a harness, gear, quickdraws and rope?
 Trangia 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

When you say "gear" do you mean nuts, cams, slings etc?
 Offwidth 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

Yes you can... here for instance, but despite the stars it is not worth it if you have some people offereing to introduce you to gritstone.

Horseshoe Quarry
 brianjcooper 03 Mar 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Agreed. It would be nice if some people helped out as others have said.

Surely setting up Trad anchors for top roping Isn't so far away from bolt anchors?
When I first started climbing(top roping) we only had a couple of slings a rope and a boulder at the top.
llani 03 Mar 2017
In reply to Trangia:

No, in spain usually we have the bolts in the rock and you only need the quickdraws... I thought here would be the same... And yes we are looking for easy routes (5 to 6c) is.not the first time that wr climb
 deacondeacon 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

> I'm living in Swindon now don't worries, I don't came from spain

Swindon? You should be up here every weekend
 Trangia 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

Then the answer to your question is really no, unless you can find an experienced person with the equipment to climb with you, or are happy to climb on a very limited bolted limestone crag where there isn't much easy stuff and the quality is not very good.

Sorry.

To find good bolted climbing in the UK you would have to go somewhere like Portland with is on the South Coast at the other end of the country.

Unlike in Spain and much of Europe, the emphasis in Britain is mainly on Trad climbing (where you place your own protection) with not much bolted climbing. You will find bolted climbing in many indoor walls though.
llani 03 Mar 2017
In reply to Trangia:

This is the answer that I'm looking for... So maybe the best think is to go bouldering...anyway thank you to all for your answers!!
 Si dH 03 Mar 2017
In reply to Trangia:
".To find good bolted climbing in the UK you would have to go somewhere like Portland with is on the South Coast at the other end of the country. "

I feel the need to point out that there is some brilliant sport climbing in the Peak District. It does, however, start from 7a upwards and much of it may well still be wet at Easter.

Best bet would be to combine grit bouldering and walking unless they are keen to give trad a go (which it doesn't sound like. )

Llani - do you have any bouldering pads?
Post edited at 18:26
llani 03 Mar 2017
In reply to Si dH:
Yes but in spain so No I don't have it...
 Si_G 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

Climbing Works in Sheffield will hire bouldering pads.
You'll need to join (£3) but it's worth a visit anyway.

https://www.climbingworks.com/the-works/pad-hire/
 Billg 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

I realise that this is off topic, but there is good low grade sport climbing in South Wales which is easy to reach from Swindon. The Gower Peninsula (near Swansea) has lots of lovely coastal sport routes in beautiful locations and has great campsites
 steveb2006 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

If you are keen to climb Peak district bolted routes, have a look at Gary Gibsons site - http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Peak%20Index.htm

Generally old limestone quarries but not as bad as most people here make out - plenty of locals use them - eg Horseshoe Quarry - best routes 6b and above but quite a lot of 5s and lower 6s.

Hope this helps

Steve
 Jack Whiteley 03 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

What dates would you want to go climbing?
I would be happy to take you and your partner out for the day on some easy gritstone routes.
 brianjcooper 04 Mar 2017
In reply to Jack Whiteley:

> What dates would you want to go climbing?I would be happy to take you and your partner out for the day on some easy gritstone routes.

Which is the correct reply as he was thinking of visiting the Peak District for climbing and trekking.
You're a star Jack.
 Cake 05 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:
If you want to accept an offer of trying traditional (trad) climbing with Jack or someone else, it will be a great new experience for you.

However, if that doesn't appeal to you, then getting a pad somehow and bouldering would be a really good second-best. The gritstone bouldering in The Peak is excellent and totally unlike limestone bouldering. The best guidebook for you is probably the Rockfax Peak Bouldering, which is pretty comprehensive.

Enjoy,

Owen
 mrphilipoldham 05 Mar 2017
In reply to llani:

I'd also be happy to offer an experienced helping hand with trad, so long as I'm not working on the days you're here!

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