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NEWS: Nina Williams repeats Ambrosia, ~8A highball/solo

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 UKC News 04 Mar 2017
Nina Williams on Ambrosia, ~8A, Bishop, 4 kbNina Williams has made the first female ascent of Kevin Jorgeson's ~14m,  ~8A highball/solo Ambrosia on the The Grandpa Peabody boulder at The Buttermilks, Bishop, California.

The problem/route was first climbed by Kevin in 2009 and hasn't seen more than a handful repeats...

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eddiherkules 04 Mar 2017
In reply to UKC News:
Don't forget Sonnie's fifth(?) ascent!
Incredible stuff nonetheless!
 cb_6 05 Mar 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Given the height of 14m and the suggestion that it's as much a route as it is a boulder, what sort of sport grade would it get? I've got a grade convertor app on my phone that suggests 8c+, which is a hell of grade to solo.
 john arran 05 Mar 2017
In reply to cb_6:

> Given the height of 14m and the suggestion that it's as much a route as it is a boulder, what sort of sport grade would it get? I've got a grade convertor app on my phone that suggests 8c+, which is a hell of grade to solo.

I always thought that adding 3 increments usually gets you in the right ballpark, so 8A might be very roughly similar in difficulty to 8b+.
 remus Global Crag Moderator 05 Mar 2017
In reply to cb_6:

Worth noting that the top is relatively easy, so it's more like doing an 8A boulder problem in to a 7c route. Still, hardly a bad effort!
 SuperLee1985 06 Mar 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Jesus that's high!

I would assume someone attempting this problem would take a red-point stile approach and practice on top-rope first?
 Fraser 06 Mar 2017
In reply to UKC News:
Great effort. This problem/route always gives me the heebie-geebies when I see it!

Edit: Sonnie T's ascent here (@5:38m)
youtube.com/watch?v=wzsFZ6H_pn0&

Jorgeson's here:
youtube.com/watch?v=ErrKT2xv-Jw&

... and Oddo's here:
youtube.com/watch?v=i5z3qOfS6lw&
Post edited at 08:56
 john arran 06 Mar 2017
In reply to SuperLee1985:

> Jesus that's high!I would assume someone attempting this problem would take a red-point stile approach and practice on top-rope first?

If someone needs to redpoint a stile then perhaps Ambrosia may not be an appropriate goal, even with top-rope practice
Removed User 06 Mar 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Jaysus - no wonder them boys came and pissed all over the grit...

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