UKC

Hi.

I am thinking of going to back to training for the first time after a month and bit to recover from a knee injury. I have only been doing gentle yoga - sometimes assisted - to strengthen and stretch the knees and going shopping lately.

The knee is a almost back to normal with only a small bit of swelling left, I would say 90-95%, and I will olny be doing traversing for the first few weeks.

Movement wise I have a full range of movements on that knee.

Is it safe to go back to the wall?

Sav

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Only you can answer this...

I can't jump off the wall at the moment so I just down climb everything and only try things I know I won't fall off. You need to make your own risk assessment of returning to the wall and the likely outcomes.

In reply to JIMBO:

Thanks.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi Sav,

Give your knee a bit more time, try increaseing the mileage walking first rather than adding in complications with climbing.

On the climbing front, you can work your core, fingers, arms and shoulders without stressing your knee.

In reply to alx:
Hi alx.

How long for recovery time do you suggest?
I could go to houses and distribute a flyer for car washing business.

I like the ideas of traversing mileage as it has many benefits.

Is it true that squats and deadlifts increase IGF-1 production which reduces swelling?

I've read yoga increases HGH and thyroid hormones production.

Steep climbing doesn't won't stress the knee?!

What about going to gym so treadmill/x-trai er, squats and deadlifts with lightweights?

Gracias
Sav

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I would avoid squats and deadlifts until completely recovered due to the increased stress on the joints.

Plus, steep climbing isn't bad on the knees, but could lead to falling off which is, so i would avoid that also.

Keep up with the yoga, gradually increase your walking and back off if you feel pain come back.

I think traversing easily would be the best way to start your journey back into climbing, but only when you're ready, and don;t push yourself to the point of falling off, step down before things get too difficult.

Wishing you a speedy recovery.

In reply to dr_botnik:
Hi.

One of my poses that I have been doing is a squat called Victory Warior Goddess pose but it involves no weights.

When I traverse I don't do graded traverses but use big hand holds and small foot holds. Steep traversing!

Thanks.

Sav

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi Sav

Unless you are particularly deficient in those hormones if you are able to get elevated levels they would only be for a short period of time so translation into anything meaningful would be at best limited.

Regarding recovery, did you see a medical professional about your injury?

Explain to them that climbing is important to you so what can they recommend? Be in the recovery game for the long run, no short cuts, you want to be injury free for the rest of your life not just for the short term.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

First thing I would say is listen to your physio if you have one.

It;s pretty much impossible for anyone on here to give any specific advise, especially when you haven't even said what kind of knee injury you've suffered from.

The other thing of course is to listen to your body. Dr Botnik is right that squats and deadlifts will increase stress on your joints. But on the other hand some increased stress is necessary for strengthening, and much post injury physio includes some. The other general advise is don't rush, build up gradually.

For climbing, if you're low level traversing above decent matting you can pretty much just fall on your bum to avoid stress on the knees. But you should be able to get some idea just by gently jumping up and down and seeing how they feel.

In reply to alx:

Hi.
Yes I saw a doctor and I am still seeing the same GP though out the recovery phase. I have a check up with him this Thursday afternoon.

I will explain to him that climbing is important to me and ask about recommendations. I totally agree with you.

Sav

In reply to stp:
Yo no tengo un physio (I don't have a physio).

I agree with you 100%

The knee injury is swelling due to soft tissue (cartilage) tears and damage behind the Patella. I don't think there was any Patella Infusion.

I have been building gradually. Yoga wise I started with a few basic asanas like Warror 2, Chair Pose, Victory Warrior Goddess Pose, Mountain Pose Forward Bend and Sitting Forward Bend. Then I added more....

Now I can do most basic one legged balances unassisted excluding dancer pose (which I have avoided) and I can get on my knees almost without any pain.

Climbing wise, all I want to do at the moment is low level traversing.

Sav

In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Hi.

Great news:

This afternoon I had a check-up with the doctor....

He said there is no more swelling, pain and the knee is back to normal....

We did the normal tests and two extra tests - squat exercises.

I asked him if I could go back to the climbing wall and he told me I can.

Sav

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Maybe you should do top roped climbs at first? So long as you have an alert belayer there would be a much reduced risk of any shock loading to the joint, and your belayer can control how hard you land every time.

In reply to Trangia:
Good idea but I don't have a belaying partner and the stuff are usually busy.

I'll be doing low level traversing for a the first few sessions.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:


I never start a climbing session without one!

In reply to Bulls Crack:
Me to

A hip opener and a core strength builder.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I think this one to listen to your body. Personally I'd try a very easy low bouldering or top roping session and see how it feels. If you have no adverse effects, carry on.

In reply to GrahamD:

I agree.
I'll do traversing for the first session.