UKC

Hey Guys.

I have decided to set myself a target this year after watching the video of the woman who was getting over her fear of falling when climbing (Posted recently on here).

Bit of background before the target and questions. I've been climbing for around 3 years, but the last 18 months have not been my most active after moving from Birmingham to Cornwall. I started of climbing indoors and have recently now in the last 12 months began to climb outdoors, although if you look at my Logbook you will see this is not a large volume of outdoors, but that is going to be changing as the weather (hopefully) improves.

So indoors my hardest lead to date is a 6a+, and top rope is a 6b/6b+. I do myself have a fear of falling, but this is also climbing above the bolts (Even indoors) and is something that I am currently working on to overcome and believe to be improving upon.

So onto my personal target.

For Outdoor Sport climbing (Of which I have done none so far...) Is to climb a 6c. I have two in mind.
The first is Warrior (6c) Which is a 6c+ according to UKC but is a 6C in the book.
The second is Boogie On Down (6c) Which is the same as above. 6c in book 6c+ on UKC.

Currently living in Cornwall these are the closest to the grade that I was able to find, but also look like great routes to really push myself.

My second target is for Trad climbing outdoors. And that is propel myself from climbing at a current VDiff, and to climb a HS/VS.

For the VS (as I live in Roche) I am looking at Porky (VS 4c)
for HS I am not 100% sure but potentially thinking of Central Groove (HS 4b) Which I know is a Multi pitch, but looks a fantastic route.

The advice I am seeking really is looking for routes that you believe would be great first climbs at these grades. preferably not too long of a drive, but i'm fairly flexible!

Also how you combat your head game which currently with Trad is what is freaking me out, but this is getting better with each lead, and if you are in the area and would like to climb with me feel free to hit me up! Mostly weekday climbing due to work.

Many thanks in advance!

In reply to Barnacles:

IMO the best way to get on top of trad fear is to climb trad and actively concentrate on relaxing - deep breaths, taking hands off when standing in balance etc.

For routes Central Groove is indeed superb and doesn't feel that committing even though it is multipitch. Whilst there look at Leviathan - a good honest VS with excellent protection all the way up.

Cornwall is blessed with many brilliant VSs but they are generally solid at the grade. Bosigran is probably the pick as it is not tidal and has a great selection. Although multi pitch it is usually possible to take easier options from most stances.

In reply to Barnacles:

You need mileage - both on trad and sport.

Mileage is the key to trad. The fear of falling bit is another matter - requiring different tactics. (Don't worry, I've got it too - even after hundreds of falls! But I know what to do about it - well, for me.)

For sport, if you get up to Portland in two day slots say (the weather's been crap but should be getting better soon), just do loads. Start with really low grades. (Don't go to the left hand side of The Cuttings - polished crap!!!) I can give you suggested venues. The Ivanator does great lists.

With trad - be careful! Right now, just do V Diff type stuff with people you trust. Get out as often as you reasonably can. Don't do too much/get knackered in a session - easy to make mistakes through tiredness.

Think of this as building a solid platform - a base to a climbing pyramid. Your hardest routes are the apex - but it's the base which is most important. The middle part is the next important.

Very often people have dream summers when they do stuff they could never have imagined. But you have to go slowly and carefully at the beginning.

And a caveat. With trad, grades can be (yet another!) trap. My most scary trad moments haven't been on the hardest routes I've led/soloed. They've been on OK routes in bad circumstances, e.g. seepage on an unprotected crux, sudden downpour on unprotected terrain, missing key protection + seepage, etc.

Never let your guard down - not on hard routes, not on easy ones, not on trad, not on sport. We can easily grow to think of climbing as a familiar animal, almost a tame pet. But it's not - it's a wild animal which will devour you if you give it half a chance. Every time out - and yes, even on a climbing wall - I remind myself of that.

Good luck!

Mick

In reply to Barnacles:

My second target is for Trad climbing outdoors. And that is propel myself from climbing at a current VDiff, and to climb a HS/VS.

I'd suggest going for well-protected routes first if you're seeking to push up your trad level - especially if you're jumping a grade. To supplement guidebook descriptions, the UKC logbook notes can be revealing, and it's worth checking them. For example, the gear placements on that VS at Roche you have your eye on appear to have caused some leaders a few problems. Bear in mind that trad gear placement is a multi-faceted skill set which takes time to learn, and that although ambitious targets can be inspiring and motivating, they need to be balanced with personal safety.

In reply to Barnacles:

Ditto above, Practice, Practice and more Practice. Central Groove is very well protected and a great route for a target. The belays bomber and it's 2 very manageable pitches. If you leave your bag at the base, the squirrel will probably go through it.

Can't comment on the sport routes, but I find sport harder outdoors than indoors. I think you need to be willing to actually work the routes and find better sequences, I'm just not really willing to put the time in.

Haytor has some good, well-protected stuff as well, but I'm sure there's loads to go at in Cornwall... I've been wanting to get down there for a while, maybe this year.

In reply to Oliver Houston:

Thanks to every one for the replys.

In regards to Trad it is very much a case of doing a number of climbs before moving to the next grade up, but I am being quite picky with what I am leading and if I dont feel confident saying no.
For the Sport, if I can get a couple of days off together than Portland has been some where I have looked at wanting to go to, but with work its hard to do so, Although saying that I do have a week off at the end of April / Start of May... (Any one fancy a climb?!)

I will start looking at the comments on UKC climbs too alongside guidebook descriptions to give me a better idea of what its like.
I guess my reason for choosing Porky is due to living in Roche and taking the dogs for a walk up there all the time!

Interms of Mileage I'm currently just trying to get as much mileage indoors at the moment, and Outdoors when the weather is better / partner is available to climb!

In reply to Barnacles:

For sport, I'd seriously looking to take yourself off to France or Spain for a few days. The UK just doesn't come close.