UKC

Hi, i am looking for a crag for a day trip for about 15 of us from a uni club. we wouldn't want to travel much longer than 1.5 hours. The ideal crag would have nice trad routes around VS but also some topropes or good bouldering. We have climbed at Blackford, Ratho quarry, hawkcraig, rosyth, Bowden doors and kyloe out. Can anyone recommend somewhere that might be suitable? stumbled across Loudoun Hill which looks like its got some good trad.

Thanks, John

In reply to John Aisthorpe:

There's plenty of other good stuff in Northumberland, I've not done a great deal at the very northern end of the County, however I really enjoyed Back Bowden Doors when I visited it summer before last (may not fit the bill for good routes around VS).

In reply to John Aisthorpe:

Cambusbarron

In reply to John Aisthorpe:

Traprain Law has a load of reasonable low to mid-grade stuff. Loudoun Hill is a superb crag and has plenty of decent low-grade routes - probably less than 90 mins from Edinburgh.

I would second Cambusbarron West Quarry (aka Fourth Quarry) as well.

In reply to John Aisthorpe:

Auchinstarry is a great venue with plenty of climbs in all grades and easily day tripable from Edinburgh.
To the north there's also limekilns which has some great VS routes although some people object to the quality of the limestone. But there's plenty of big trees for rigging top ropes.

In reply to Sam Shilliday:

..But please please go easy on Limekilns! Polish and erosion on the top-outs to routes - two very good reasons to avoid mass top-roping sessions there I would say.

Rosyth or Traprain would be far more suitable for a big mixed ability Uni group in my opinion

In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

With regards to Limekilns, if you check Lowland Outcrops you'll see that groups are rather strongly discouraged from going there. I can't remember the exact wording as the guidebook is at home but it definitely suggests that Limekilns is not an appropriate venue for large groups.

The crag has been subject to numerous access issues over the years so please please don't do anything to jeapordise this.

Also, whilst top ropes can be easily set up, there are only a couple of very easy routes and the HS and VS routes have already become horrible polished with the number of beginners skittering their way up them. The top outs on the face with DT's ,White Ensign etc are also getting badly eroded with new blocks coming off frequently - adorning the crag with top ropes is not going to help this any. Realistically, Rosyth and Traprain are much better venues for a mixed ability group.

In reply to John Aisthorpe:

I reckon Traprain is yer best bet. Its south facing, has a pleasant outlook and mini-mountain-crag feel, and has lots of interesting routes Severe-HVS, with generally straightforward top-anchor placements. The closest parking area is a narrow roadside verge, however, so if you are going with a big group, please consider parking at the north side carpark and walking round (a pleasant 10-15mins)

Rosyth's pretty grotty.
Cambusbarron is good and the Contracts area is good for groups, but perhaps more for HVS-E1 to get the better routes
Auchinstarry is popular with groups and topropes straight from the car-park, but the better routes are on the back side of the quarry and so less suitable for groups. Also, similar to the limekilns comments - please dont set up topropes on Nijinski - its becoming unbearably polished on the crux, please have thought for the leaders trying this move over sketchy side-runners.
Northumberland (Bowden etc) has great (hard) VSs but they will be spread far apart, and top anchors are often not that bomber. The sandstone is also erodable so make sure its 100% dry and extend any topropes well over the edge.
Dunkeld Crag a Bairns is perhaps pushing the 1.5hrs, but there are some great VS routes there

In reply to Dr Toph:

I'll second the recommendation for Dunkeld. Within the 1.5 hours if you avoid rush hour, and a really lovely crag. The Rut and the Groove have to be contenders for best single pitch VS in Scotland - though that is a different thread.

In reply to Dr Toph:

I was going to suggest Dunkeld, although I'm not sure it's so great for a big group. There is the added benefit of a really good chip shop in Dunkeld.

In reply to John Aisthorpe:

Another vote for Traprain. I'd actually say that it's by far the best option, for what you're after. And not far at all from Edinburgh.

Have a hoot,
D.

In reply to John Aisthorpe:

If you do go to Traprain with beginners, just be aware that the right-hand crag (Lammer Wall) has no easy descent route.

Loudoun Hill is worth a trip for some reasonable routes in the S-HVS range, though many of the unstarred ones are dirty and overgrown. It's quite exposed to the wind, but still tends to seep after rain. The Edge (VS 4c) is spectacular but bold and logistically a bit awkward (either climb the horribly grassy first pitch or ab in from the top).

Cambusbarron West only really has one sub-HVS route worth climbing (and that's not in the guidebook: Still Better than Peak (VS 4c)).

In reply to John Aisthorpe:

If you go to Traprain, be aware that some of the routes are incredibly polished. Another vote for Dunkeld, though its not ideal for top-ropping, another possibility would be Benny Beg (easy sports crag) probably just outside the 1.5 hr drive though but not far off it.

Derek

In reply to Derek Jamieson:

Group of 15 is tricky. It's a big group - Limekilns is right out.

Rosyth tho not well-loved by many is actually not bad in some ways - quick and easy to walk from top back down, can do top ropes or abseil for fun without annoying folk. Lots of parking, you can even have a picnic and perhaps a wee fire. BEST VENUE FOR AVOIDANCE OF ANNOYING ANYONE ELSE, an important factor.

A longer drive and no trad is Kirriemuir -LOTS of sport of all grades, sheltered, can take all of you (maybe spread out a little) and car parking. Benny Beg is ok too, could be busy at weekends and all sport, but has cafe/toilets near. Might be that Kyloe/Bowden is a call, but all trad, you need a few folk that know the game.

Good luck, a tricky balance!

In reply to BrendanO:
For information: I called in at Benny Beg last week and many of the lower offs are in a very poor state, e.g. only one chain, and one looked to be completely missing. Not sure who maintains it - any ideas?

In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

Thanks Keith, I've not been for maybe 3-4 years (my friends are good enough to go elsewhere now), so update appreciated. There used to be a book in the cafe there for logging any issues.

In reply to John Aisthorpe:

Dunkeld easily reached in under 1.5hrs outwith rush hours - note - go to Polney crag NOT cave crag!!! Also very close to edinburgh is Aberdour - a sea cliff & tidal but lots of lower grade routes, nice rock & nice situation. Both better than the local quarries in my opinion!!

In reply to John Aisthorpe:
Aberdour (The Hawcraig) is atmospheric, quick access *if the tide is out*!