UKC

I saw the SMC Spire belay device a few months ago and was really impressed by the design. It looked like a really elegant solution to the same problem that the DMM pivot solves slightly more clunkily and the reviews I read backed that up.

In short, I really want one. I can't find them for sale anywhere in the UK though. SMC will ship me one from America, for the bargain price of $132! Has anyone got any better suggestions?

For the curious: youtube.com/watch?v=PcW2U29LnBk&

In reply to Luke90:

UKC user "druss" had some for sale last year.

In reply to jimtitt:

Thanks. His thread's archived now so I couldn't post on it but I've emailed him to ask whether he's still got any.

In reply to Luke90:

I see that you can buy one direct for about £22 but by the time you have paid taxes and P&P it's going to turn out a bit costly. I'm very tempted myself, it looks like a great device. The Pivot is a little cumbersome and I have a few misgivings about the Megajule. I seem to recall there were some issues with it although I can't remember exactly what they were but enough to put me off buying one at the time.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:

Yeah, it's the international postage and the uncertainty of import taxes and associated charges that kills the idea of ordering it from America.

It sounds like it has enough advantages over the Pivot for me to want to give it a go but not if it's going to cost twice as much.

In reply to Luke90:

I'm a Yorkshireman it's in my genes to object to paying more than necessary. But I would like one if I could get it for the £22 price tag. This seems like a fair price.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:

If you're interested, Druss got back to me to say he's still got a couple for sale. I'm buying one but I guess the other's still available.

In reply to GridNorth:

Hi Grid

Luke pointed me in your direction. I have one left (blue) if your interested? The SMC guys were pretty helpful but they couldn't get the international postage to a reasonable cost. If I remember correctly the postage was double the cost of the device itself! It's the reason I brought a few back with me when I was there.

Cheers
Druss

In reply to druss:

Hi Druss. I'd like to throw my hat in the ring for your one remaining Spire if GridNorth doesn't want to take up the option. I'll PM you.

In reply to druss:
YHM. I'll take it.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:


It's all yours Al but I'll gladly step in if you change your mind 😀

In reply to GridNorth:

Hi G

I know you like the best new shiny kit

but really wonder why the need to be able to lower out of autolock mode?

I like the idea of the rope only going one way through the device.

When using the autolock mode for multi pitch, all the team know the system, the second is completing the pitch as quick as possible with or without rope assist. If they fall off they get up themselves somehow.

This applies more to amateur teams, I guess, than guided parties.

In reply to Rick Graham:

You can't always guarantee that your second knows the score and I don't want to be giving briefings before each climb. What you say may be true in a Alpine environment with partners of equal ability but in that scenario I may not even use guide mode. Despite what you say I have found myself having to lower in guide mode but I like this device mainly because it's lighter and smaller than the DMM Pivot, has no moving parts and seems to be more effective.

Really it's none of that it's just that I like shiny new kit as you say.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:

I can't remember having to lower a second because hardly anyone climbs worse than me. But paying out slack to a tight-roped second in guide mode is a situation I could envisage occurring pretty regularly. I can always tell when the leader has me seconding in guide mode because of the delay (and obvious effort) in giving me slack when I call for it.

In reply to BnB:
There are a couple of issues with this type of device. One is lowering in guide mode the other is the dependence on really good anchor/s being at just the right height. Nothing can be done about the latter so the more designers can do to alleviate the former the better. I like devices than can be used in this manner. I started with an original Reverso, 2nd and 3rd generation Reverso's then a DMM Pivot. Each one has been an improvement on the previous ones and in any case I like shiny new toys especially if they make my climbing experience better. Lighter and smaller is nearly always an attractive proposition.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:


Am I the only person who never has this problem? With an ATC guide and a fat single rope, I just grab the device with one hand and push, and slack feeds ok...

In reply to humptydumpty:

I think it may depend on the weight of the second. I have managed in the past just by using my thumb but it's not guaranteed.

Al