UKC

Morning All! This week FitClub is brought to you by the second edition of Overcoming Gravity, by Steven Low. I’ve been working my way through it’s 600 A4 pages, and though it is specific to bodyweight strength training I would thoroughly recommend it as background reading for climbers. It has a lot of interesting material on programming, prehab, posture/mobility etc as well as technical skills like rings etc.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=659648&v=1

HMS: I’m impressed at the OS consistency. Is that a skill you consciously developed or just through experience and reserve of strength etc?
hokkyo: Ooh what did the Tatra have in store for you?
Ally Smith: Interesting point about not training with roped climbing at all, do you think you’ll continue with that approach?
Si dH: Did the weather pick up? I see a few 7A ticks in your log…
Guy127917: Time to get serious with Canada training
ad111: Welcome along! Thanks for posting some good goals. Sounds like you were busy last week- is that normal volume for you or a ‘psyched’ week?
Richard Popp: Well done on refocusing during a bad session and getting back on it. I think that kind of thing really shows you when you do or don’t have the right motivation for training.
the sheep: It’s all about making your training work for you, fitting a run into ‘dead time’ sounds ideal. Congrats on the swim pb! How are your triathlon plans shaping up?
AJM: Good to hear you have a crag compatible baby
DanDan: “keep training, get out on rock, pick ONE thing from your selection of shortcomings and focus on that.” sound.
Biscuit: When you say you are losing movement skills, what sort of observations lead you to that conclusion?
TonyB: Nice progress on the hangs. How often do you re-test?
MattRM: Did you get out for your 2 sessions?
Martin Turner: Welcome along! Absolutely no problem with non-climbing training, as long as you have goals! How are you planning to manage recovery on a calorie deficit given the amount of sport and weight training?
JenBonesJones: When is the rematch with Octopussy? (MTG?)
Bobling: Nice one getting to a physio, did you manage to complete rehab exercises as instructed….
Just TinTin: I love listening to Jonny Dawes… I think it’s important not to listen to the actual words he uses, just the general themes, kind of like reading James Joyce or something. But yes, working out goals for the spring etc will be good- any progress?
LeeBoy: Nice, are you seeing progress in your max strength weight programme?

AWOL: TheFasting, Tyler, Spengler

In reply to guy127917:

No I wasn't!

In reply to Tyler:

D'oh you posted first- my process doesn't capture that scenario! Also apologies to TheFasting.

How is the pre-trip 'cramming' going?

In reply to guy127917:

Hi Guy, thanks for the welcome! Up until two weeks ago I did absolutely no running but I have now signed up for a half marathon and I want to get a time my various (far fitter) relatives won't laugh at too much! The climbing has been building up over the last few months from 3 to 5 sessions most weeks. I've been hugely psyched for the last few months and I'm hoping it will translate into feeling good climbing this summer!

M: Rest - was feeling exhausted.
T: 5.5km endurance run & indoor bouldering - new routes
W: race pace intervals 6k total & indoor bouldering trying to work on my deadhanging
T: 5.5km endurance run & indoor bouldering - more new routes
F: Rest
S: Route climbing
S: Evening 5k run at race pace & possibly some bouldering (hopefully)

STG:
-Start doing Eva Lopez training again as fingers are feeling better. (failed this week as they have moved the weight vest)
-Maintain training for half marathon. (going well but have sore legs)
-Gain some endurance after a long, cold, dark and snowy winter filled with indoor bouldering. (feeling slight improvements)

MTG:
-Climb 4 F7b and 1 F7c at the wall. (no cigar as yet)
-Do some pullups without hating it. (still hate them)
-Get under 1:40 in half marathon

LTG :
-Climb 10 F7b and 1+ F7c the summer
-Go to Norway trad climbing again and get some endurance before going
-Fit in a sport climbing holiday

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Don't think I'm very good at onsighting, but what I am amazingly good at doing is milking all rests & shake-outs for all they're worth. A useful skill! Whilst not exactly a rest week, this week wasn't a full training week either. Waiting for advice from Coach Ally as to what best to be doing now.

M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute.
W - cyce commute. UCR routes in evening, dozen in pairs up at 7a. Nice relaxed session.
T - cyc;e commute.
F - TCA trying 6a+ to 6c set, of which there seem to be precisely zero at the 6a+ end of the grade range. Also some old comp problems, which also seemed tough. Got as far as looking at the moon board, but the easiest problems on it are 6c, so didn't feel too enamored!
S - collecting D2 from uni, so humping boxes.
S - UCR circuits. Lots of 6a/6b/6c to warm up, cup of tea, then extended session working the hardest circuit in chunks. Seems to be around 7b+ (UCR don't grade them any more which is a bit silly). I can do quite a few parts and varying length links, but after hold 30 there are some massive downhill moves which wont ever go, so think the objective is to keep chipping away trying to get to 30 in one.

In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, seem to have managed to get stuck into structured program, good week for me, nothing dramatic just a feeling I am trying and pulling harder.
Monday-19 mile cycle into headwind
Tuesday-Hangs-upped weight and can go up again next week. 25mins ARC
Wednesday-Shoulder rehab
Thursday-Bouldering, worked hard and persevered, ticked another blue (6A+6C) which had felt impossible
Friday-Long day at work at the end of a long week
Sat-Bouldering, another blue then moon board, felt like I was really working even if I did not tick the blue I wanted to tick or the moon board problem.
Sun-55 today, big breakfast and lunch in the sun, popped into friends for tea, may do some yoga/shoulder in a minute. Life good.

Two more sessions to a deloading week when I hope to get out. The weeks after look significantly more intense, bring it on. Never done anything structured and am actually enjoying this, my mentality is feeling pretty positive, wont last.

Rich

In reply to guy127917:


Only a bit unfortunately Guy...see below for full report.

S-M: mostly raining as reported last week. Unfortunately, about 2 hours after I posted late on Monday morning, I started coming down with a bug - sore throat/general tiredness. Walking around Paris in freezing rain seemed to trigger it!
T: bug was worse - sore throat and spells of headache as well. However, it was dry so I went out anyway. We went to 95.2 and I did Retour aux Sources (f7A). It's pretty hard for the grade and I'd failed on it 3 years ago, but it only took me 30-40 minutes to do it this time, so I was pleased with this. Had a play on another 7A and got fairly close but then needed a rest through the middle of the day. Late in the afternoon I spent an hour or so on another one and should have done it but fell off mantling the top (which should be easy - I was just so tired I was almsot puking up while trying to climb.)
W: no rain but humidity was really high and all the rock was condensed. Nothing remotely dry. Then in the evening my bug took a turn for the worse and decided it was time to expell everything in my body all night. Not sur if was teh same thign or some additional food poisoning.
T: felt absolutely terrible, just stayed in the gite and ate plain stuff all day, but it was another day of all wet rock anyway, no-one got anything done, as per Wednesday.
F: guts mostly better and rock mostly dry so got out again. Similar to Tuesday I was climbing well first thing and got a quick ascent of La Joker (White 13) (f7A), which was good. After a couple of hours rest and lunch I did another one called Festin de Pierre (Black29c) (f7A), which I was pleased with as I'd found this desperate two years ago. After this the sore throat and tiredness returned with a vengeance, I tried another problem in the evening but got nowhere.
S: travelling home as far as the south coast for a posh meal out with my wife's family (it's her birthday tomorrow.) Very good and manged to eat/drink without being ill.
S: drive home to Derby. Just a minor sore throat still remaining.

Easily the worst Font trip I have been on weather-wise with only 2 reasonable days. However, I did get 3 (known to be hard for the grade) Ft 7As done, which isn't a bad performance considering how ill I was, and they were all good. So not a complete disaster.

I think I'm going to take a break from Fitclub for a while. I've not regained any psyche for trying Eastwood Traverse again, and have lost my psyche at the moment to get on (or train for) more routes: I'm inclined to just carry on bouldering, doing what I fancy at the time to see if I can get lots of 7A+-7Cs done. I prefer not to report weekly against a set of specific goals if I'm doing this.
Throughout 2016 Fitclub advice and motivation was crucial to achieving the goals I set for myself, and they meant a huge amount - so thanks to everyone, especially people who started the thread every week!
I'll keep lurking and probably post occasionally, and in future (post-baby?) maybe I'll come back more regularly again

Si

P.S. Tony, I haven't forgotten you are keen to join me for some bouldering now - I've got some unfinished business on Tetris but I can drop you a line when I'm hitting the limestone or Churnet..?

In reply to guy127917:

Heya folks!

Thought I'd jump in as well posting for the first time on this thread.

It's been a good climbing week:

Monday - rest, light stretching, working in particular on poor hamstring and hip flexibility.

Tuesday - indoor routes + foot on campusing

After a hard weekend of bouldering I fancied some indoor routes to keep the stamina up. Managed a lovely 7a on the 2nd try (after missing a jug on the O/S and falling off). Lesson learned - read the routes from the ground. Got pumped lapping another 7a.

Finished the day with foot on campusing for power endurance.


Wednesday - rest.

Thursday - indoor training. Started off with a warm up followed by some recruitment hangs.

Then some more power training on some indoor V7,V8s, managed most of the moves on one indoor V8. Thenswitched to the woody in MCC and lapped some pumpy and powerful circuits I'd setmyself.


Friday - rest.

Saturday - optimistically went to the Cave of Justice. Almost everything was wet. Breck Road was however dry. Had quite a few attempts on Empire of Dirt V7 (beta anyone?).

Then managed all the moves on Lickety Split V7/V8, so incredibly polished but a very aesthetic overhang I find. Psyched to come back to it!

Finished myself by working some of the moves on the start of left wall traverse.

Sunday - a few repeater hangs targeting openhanded grip strength. 20 minutes of aerocap.

Roll on next week!

In reply to Si dH:

Sorry to hear that the trip to Font was unsuccessful. The Joker and Retour aux Sources do look like amazing problems. I played on Retour last year, and would really like to come back to it this year. But I understand it must be disappointing to have so many non-climbing days.

Very keen to go out bouldering. I've been out a few times this year, but haven't been very successful with weather or time.

In reply to guy127917:


Thanks Guy, I'm going to re-test about every four weeks. I was expecting to see a little progress quickly, but I'm expecting things to slow right down now. Still the re-testing feels like a good way to keep motivated and tracking progress.

This week I was working in London, and then on a family meet in Wales with our climbing club. My goal was simply to get as much of my weeks training as possible. I found it really hard to train at a different wall, partly due to getting distracted with new cool stuff and partly due to spending ages finding suitable problems.

Mon - The Arch, hard bouldering on the comp wall. I really enjoyed this and amazingly managed a V8, although I'm very skeptical of the grade and am fairly sure I climbed in a way the setter didn't intend. It wasn't all cranking hard, as there was a V5 I spent ages on and never managed.
Tue - The Arch again, I had a fairly half hearted woody session, but got side tracked back to the comp wall. I just didn't have the motivation to make up problems for the one session. Finished with core.
Wed - The Arch again. This was really a test of motivation. I finished the previous session at 10 pm and was back at 8 am as it was the only way I could fit a session in. I was supposed to do some footless climbing, but I couldn't face it and it turned into just bouldering. Finished with continuity.
Thur - rest
Friday - up early in the morning for a fingerboard session, pilates, then work - drive to North Wales
Sat - family stuff
Sun - very short boulder at Nescliffe on the way back before it started to rain. I wasn't there long enough to get much done, but very keen to go back and try again.

I've got a pretty full training schedule next week, with 3 climbing sessions, 1 fingerboard session and 2 weights sessions. I'm keen to get this volume of training in, but it's challenging logistically.

In reply to guy127917:

STG: Stop my elbow getting worse.
MTG: Kalymnos on the 30th March. Like Brexit campaigners, I'm rolling back from my earlier rash projections; for 7b+ on-sight read £350million a week for the NHS. Against all reason I'm still aiming to OS multiple 7a+
LTG (this year): 8a, putting it out there.......

M: Rest
T: Stockport, only six tie ins but at least managed the 6c+ (now given a grudging 6c+/7a!). Hmm, four sessions to redpoint a grade I need to be warming up on in 2 weeks! Not promising.
W: BUK, managed a couple of V5s I'd failed on before and one that was new.
T: Depot, wandered around aimlessly, bumped into Ally and heckled him for a bit but then he got his shit together and stated looking strong. Managed one new (easy) purple but made no progress on the remaining reds.
F: Rest
S: Depot again as I was in the area. Climbed with Rossendale's strongest vet on the new comp problems, managed up to 21 then they got hard, although 25 seemed do able but only had two tries. Felt tired but managed one of the remaining burly reds at the end of the session which was pleasing.
S: Today was meant to be a training from home day but instead I did nothing other than some rehab (3 sets of military press, 4 sets of hammer curls) . Not necessarily a bad thing as there was a sharp pain from my elbow when I attempted a pull-up and I'll climb tomorrow instead.

Weight: Last two mornings I've been *just* under 10'10" which isn't bad for this time of year and no cardio/long days outside.

In reply to guy127917:

Evening FitClub, thanks Guy. Back to normal(ish) this week. Thanks for input about bodyweight exercises.

Mon - Redpoint. Got to the wall two weeks in a row, good work! Suprised myself by making progress up a 6c. Now have my own project.
Tues - Saw Physio. "Och no, I'm barely pressing at all" as I writhe in pain.
Weds - Nothing (panic about kitchen worktops resolved at 11.30 p.m.)
Thurs - Physio Exercises. Swim. 1.5 k in 37 mins.
Fri - Physio Exercises
Sat - Physio Exercises. Family walk, bog hopping North Somerset sodden fields.
Sun - Physio Exercises. P 36 (maximum form), S52. Also tried some mild planking.

Weight: 73.65 (+1.20)
Injury report: Progress. Saw the University Physio who seems to know his stuff. He identified the damaged muscle in my left calf very quickly and also told me I have abnormally weak hip muscles, but above average general joint mobility. Prescribed a couple of new exercises to strengthen hips, and more one leg balance exercises. Finished with a handshake and "Don't worry, we're going to get you running again", I could have hugged him. Back to see him in a week and a bit.

Exercises Press-ups, sit ups, one leg stands rotating leg, leg raises. Use foam roller.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to April 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Get up a 6c at the wall. Get running again. Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall & Petros at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock.

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.

In reply to guy127917:

I mostly just posted about my finger injury troubles. But I made up for it by catching up on other thing with training. Started seriously on working back from my lower back injury.

M: Did squats, 80 kg x 10 close grip benches and 40 kg x 12 lunges, all for 3 sets.

Went home and did 2 hours stair climbing. Climbed 1000 meters in 2 hours, an okey pace. Only had my camelbak and sneakers.

T: Rest day since I couldn't climb.

W: Benched up to 80 kg x 8, did 40 kg front squats 3x10. Then did cable flies and some seated overhead press.

Went home and did an hour of zone 2 cardio. HR was about 165 the whole way and I climbed 600 meters.

T: Rest day.

F: Deadlifts with 40 kg 3x10, legs up bench with 55 kg 3x10 and then dips 3 sets and hyperextensions with 15 kg plate 4x12.

Started Steve House's "Special Max Strength Plan" for pull-ups. Workout 1 was 4 sets of 1 rep with whatever weight I could handle. Worked up to 27.5 kg.

Was supposed to do stair climbing with a 10 kg pack in the weekend but couldn't find time between studying.

In reply to guy127917:

>the sheep: It’s all about making your training work for you, fitting a run into ‘dead time’ sounds ideal. Congrats on the swim pb! How are your triathlon plans shaping up?

Cheers Guy, No specific tri training as yet just working on each discipline in different manners. Swimming im just trying to improve my technique. The stamina is there as is the strength so minor improvements required. Upping the cycle and run time has enabled me to feel happy doing a 1km swim instead of 2 which was my norm when I relied on swimming as my main exercise. It had got boring and a chore so its good to be back enjoying it. Cycling, I have a lovely 30km route home from work and have plotted a nice looking 40k route too. Im lucky that I can take a pretty traffic free route out of the city and then be on country lanes all the way home. With the weather looking up I can now think about dusting off the good bike and going for longer weekend rides too As for running im just trying to get faster as im still rather new to it all. On the whole for each activity im doing at least the competition distance, if not double each time I go out so all good there. Good thing is a lot of the time when I exercise is as you say dead time, be it lunch times at work, whilst the kids swim or time that would have been spent in the car. It works out nicely as free time is at a premium with three relatively young kids and a wife who also likes to get out and run too.

Anyway after that ramble here are last weeks stats;

Monday, just a 1km swim at lunch time.

Tuesday, 1k swim at lunch and an evening run whilst the eldest trained. 5.7km in 29.08 @ 5.02 per km and a best estimated 5km of 25.07. Gutted to be so close to the goal of a 25 min 5k and not quite reach it but also pleased to have smashed a lot of pb's.

Wednesday, 1km lunch swim and 31.3 km ride home. Very much enjoying the lighter evenings.

Thursday, carbon copy of Wednesday.

Friday, ride into work, 15.7km. 2km swim at lunch time to bring up the 50km in the pool for the year, 1/3 of the way to the years goal total. Then an eventful ride home, managed to stack the bike early on in the commute. There is a riverside park I cycle through and the path sometimes floods as was the case. There is however a raised decked path which can be used instead. Unfortunately as i found out its made of plastic and is smooth. As it had just started to drizzle it was also nicely damp so had the frictional qualities of Teflon so as soon as I was on it the bike went straight out from under me. Fortunately no major harm to boy or bike and cycled the remaining 30k or so home without issue.

Saturday, defiantly a rest day!

Sunday, pleasant 7.5 km run out through the fields. Very muddy though which sapped the legs.

All in all a good week clocking up over seven and a half hours of cardio

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks for the stats Guy - I didn't see too many downsides to the lack of roped up training, though i think a couple of sessions of tying in before the trip might have been beneficial for movement and clipping engrams.

Week 11: Rest week
M - Nothing.
T - Zilch.
W - Nada.
T - Random boulder at the Depot. Felt weak as a kitten warming up. Eventually found some burl (AKA “got my shit together” – thanks Tyler!) and did some purples and a few yellows (V5-V7 & V7-V8+) – late finish
F - I was tempted to be lazy, but then some internet motivational shite got me in the mood for training. Deadlifts; 24kgx12; 64kgx12; 78kgx6; 93kgx2; 101kgx3 (the old MTG of 100kg DL done and dusted without even trying – new MTG is >120kg 1RM so I can claim to be stronger than the power lifter in our office. Ego, moi…?) OHPs; 24kgx10; 34kgx8; 48kgx2; 44kgx3 (55kg 1RM goal? I’m pretty rubbish at OHP!) Then rings /Aldi fake TRX in a lattice style; inverse row/reverse T superset, I’s, wide pull-ups.
S - DOMS – no surprises really having done no real strength work for a month. Opulent 10 course dining experience with the lady followed by lazy afternoon/evening - YYFY moment as she's agreed to move in with me
S - Lazy start – back grumbling. Cave eventually at 1pm. Lots of seepage and spooge. Tried back-up project and came off the crux final move on RP#1. RP#2 was smoother but conditions had deteriorated (3 moves from end). RP#3 ended early with a wet heel. Got 2 bolts in a project and worked out logistics for bolting another (solo aiding = type 2 fun)


STG – end of Mar:
Maintain grumble free elbows
Stick to the plan; an-cap & specific strength gains for projects (deadhangs on small edges & steep bouldering with good scapular control)
RPs on cave projects; Broken Trigger, back-up project & new bolted line
Get a new bathroom fitted – work in progress – I don’t smell the freshest at the moment
Deadlift 110kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar

MTG – end of Apr:
Stick to the plan: An-cap, re-introduce aero-cap and strength gains
Get a new floor fitted in lounge & hall and make room for the lady to move in.
Aim to get an-cap levels up to >33moves/70seconds (ultimately get my an-cap=aero-power level when first tested on the lattice board; 39moves!)
Aim to get finger-strength up to 100% on Lattice rung & BM2K lower slot, with associated shoulder stability to go with it. (Pillbox, Cheshire Sandstone & 30degree system board bouldering; assisted 1-arm deadhangs & weighted BM2K lower edge/slot max-hangs)
Deadlift 120kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar

LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or grit traverse?)
Investigate FA options at Malham
8A/+’s in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life (TICK) or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Great news, please for you both. Also, someone to spot you when doing weights at home!

In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,

Room for one more in Fitclub? I've been feeling a little like I'm hitting a brick wall recently with progress and hence motivation, so thought getting involved with this after observing occasionally over the years may help. Anyway, my efforts last week, which was a little low on running compared to normal:

Mon: Fingerboard hang repeaters (open hand and half crimp, middle and bottom row of Beastmaker 1k), 20 pull ups (4x5), 30 dips (6x5)
Tue: Run 13.3km, casal pace (i.e. having a chat)
Wed: Indoor circuits - 5 x Easy (c.5+ ish)/Hard (c. 6c/7a ish) 30 move circuits. TRX Planks (90 sec x 3) and mountain climbers (60 sec x 3), and Sit ups (90 sec x 3)
Thurs: Run 6 x 800m track intervals (c. 2:55 each), total with warm up/down of 12.1km. 23.8km bike in the afternoon.
Friday: feeling a bit tired (shocker) but 5km cycling to drop/collect my car from the garage
Saturday: Parkrun (19:32) a bit faster than intended as ended up pacing another runner. 6.5km total with warm up/down. Boulder problem setting at local wall.
Sunday: Fingerboard hang repeaters (half crimp, sloper and open hand, same as above with 20 deg sloper) , some shouldery weights stuff and a bit more setting (although easy problems)

STG:
-Parkrun PB to 18:30 (currently 18:41) before Font Trip (so in the next three weeks)
-4 x 6C and 1 x 7A in Font (Early/mid April)
-Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech

MTG:
-Top 25 in Cadair Idris Fell Race (May)
-E3 not in the slate quarries or on grit (open to suggestions in North Wales!, n.b I hate limestone)
-Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries
-Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme

LTG:
-Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
-RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
-Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)

In reply to Ally Smith:

Good work!

In reply to Curious Yellow:

Indeed. I wonder if the 10 course lunch was a bribe!

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers guy.

My week is easy this week - I did zip.

I'd always figured the first 5-day week would be tough (I've taken some Wednesdays off to split things up) and we had a few evening commitments (dinner with a friend, and baby first aid course) which basically took out my spare capacity to do things. And at the weekend i caught up on life and saw a few friends (at the crag, but it was in a cloud so no climbing was done).

In reply to guy127917:

>DanDan: “keep training, get out on rock, pick ONE thing from your selection of shortcomings and focus on that.” sound.

Thanks Guy, yep the current flavour of the month is shoulder engagement. I've still got a couple of slightly iffy fingers so I thought I would concentrate on quality movement on easier problems while I can't crank super hard, trying to focus on avoiding the 'sack of potatoes on a string' look and staying engaged and tight to the wall. I've got a technique session booked with Ollie from Lattice next Monday, I'm getting all the advice I can.
I also found a really good article about basic shoulder positioning, this is the kind of thing I wish I had known 10 years ago: http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/experience-story?cid=esther-smith...

M: Indoor boulder; continuity, 8 min on 8 min off x 3
0.5 Board session 3 hard problems followed by dynamic 1-4-7. New problems which is always interesting

T: Indoor boulder; 0.5 Linked boulder, 12 move problem with 2.5 min rest, 6 reps
Core

W: Rest. Finger really sore which was frustrating

T: Indoor Boulder; 1 on 2 off, did this by going up and down a V4 instead of on a route as my partner is off skiing. Actually worked quite well, it was a long route and it down-climbed really well.
Core

F: Rest/DIY club, got the interior of the workshop all sealed up, all gaps filled or caulked

S: Outdoor routes; Portland! Headed down to Cheyne Weares as a friend wanted to work on Road Rage (7b+) and I thought I'd have a look at the 7c's next to it. Turns out that Illusions (7c+) is an incredible route! First go I got stopped by a long reach near the top and I wasn't convinced any of it was really that good, second go I figured out the long reach and the rest of the route seemed to work together a little better, third go I got through it in 2 hangs and realised it actually moves really well and there are no low percentage moves on it, which always makes me happy. There are 3 moves that are pretty much at the limit of my reach so perhaps it particularly suits me, but I've not been this excited about a route for a while, can't wait to get back on it, hopefully next weekend.
The blue skies when we arrived were soon replaced with a full-on Portland mingfest, you could see the cloud passing between climber and belayer! This soaked the holds especially lower down and yet I still enjoyed the route, so it will be cool to get back on it without wet holds.
Mrs Dandan also did all but one of the moves on Road rage, she'll be putting the draws in on my projects soon...

S: Indoor boulder; max strength session in my bouldershed and a conditioning session on the pockets. Managed to make a route that had a proper move through a mono and was able to tick it, quite pleased, next challenge is 2 monos in a row...

I skipped a couple of sessions on the plan to minimise finger overuse but I'm very pleased with the week in general, the finger felt pretty bad midweek but it's in a good place today.

Time to sort out some new goals;

New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
At least 1 session on the pockets ready for margalef
Constant focus on shoulder position when climbing

MTG: (next few months)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
Tick Doctor Feelgood (8a) in April
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b) (might change this as I've been informed its actually pretty nasty)

LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 1 done 1 booked and 2 in the planning stage
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

In reply to Dandan:

interesting article - I'll try that this evening. According to Team Chulilla last week, my shoulder positioning is an accident waiting to happen!

In reply to guy127917:


I've got this, possibly the first edition, it's a great book.
Is the second edition significantly revised? Because mine is a little hard going in places, it could have done with a heavy handed editor to make it a lot easier to use as a reference, still, I'd thoroughly recommend it as an antagonistic bible

In reply to Dandan:

I haven't looked at the first edition, but I am lead to believe it is significantly improved. The amazon description lists the differences https://www.amazon.co.uk/Overcoming-Gravity-Systematic-Gymnastics-Bodyweigh...

In reply to ianstevens:

Always room for one more, welcome on board!

In reply to guy127917:

Yeah that looks much improved over my copy, but £35 for a book I sort of already own... hmm.

In reply to Dandan:

Yeah I did pause for a while before committing to buying at that price. Given the book has some hype at the moment you may be able to shift your old version for a reasonble price (current best offer on amazon is 27 quid!)

In reply to guy127917:
Bit of a random week of climbing for me really. JJ and I are still waiting for our training plans from Robin so don’t have a strong focus. Should be able to get going this week though. Made progress in a couple of non training areas though-

* Ticked one of my MTG goals to make another climbing video this year. A friend of ours is returning to Australia so put together a kind of showreel goodbye for her, which I was pretty happy with.
* Booked flights etc to Calgary for JJ and I in June.
* Was accepted to the Alpine Club
* Weight is stable at 81.5kg and general diet quality is improving.


Monday: Rest day
Tuesday Morning: Gym for core, shoulder mobility and lower body flexibility work
Tuesday Evening: Max hangs 0,20,30,30,30 5s on 20s off x3, 3mins rest + gentle bouldering mainly focused on technique, lower body stretching
Wednesday Morning: Gym for bodyweight pulls, shoulder mobility and lower body flexibility work
Wednesday Evening: 4 easy lead routes @ 6a+, 45 minutes of bouldering in the cave, stretching
Thursday Morning: Gym for bodyweight push, shoulder mobility and lower body flexibility work
Thursday Evening: Another random evening of bouldering with no specific purpose.
Friday: 10 mile easy pace run
Saturday: Gym for core, shoulder mobility and lower body flexibility work
Sunday: Max hangs 0,20,30,30,32.5, 33.75 (failed) 5s on 20s off x3, 3mins rest Another fun bouldering session, a few nice problems.

This week’s STGs:
* Get started and stick to Robins plan
* Keep up the regular stretching and mobility enhancement work
* Keep trying to improve diet quality (rather than quantity) to manage weight/bf%

In reply to Si dH:

Hmm not an ideal trip then, but congratulations on getting those 3 ticks anyway. Thanks for your ever insightful comments, and good luck with your bouldering. I'm sure we all hope to see you back here with some big goals at some point in the future!

In reply to guy127917:
Hi all....

Mon: Pilates. Wall. 8 mins on, 8 mins off x3. Minute on 2 mins off x10.
Tues: Essay hell. Very little sleep.
Wedns: Zzzzzzzz.
Thurs: Fingerboard. Pullups and frenchies. Felt terrible.
Fri: Wall. Too wiped out for the circuits I should have been doing. Short boulder. Rings.
Sat: Early am fingerboard. Later, Cuttings. Conditions fully disgusting, cloud level somewhere around knee height. Got through a lot of chalk, didn't do anything productive but lovely to see AJM and family.
Sun: Gave up on the weather and went to The Project (Poole) for a boulder.

In reply to guy127917:

Hey Guy.

Short one this week as last week I mainly bouldered for fun as one of my favourite climbing buddies has flown off to Australia and I wanted to spend as much time with her as possible.

I would like to get back on Octopussy pretty soon. I'm thinking STG perhaps MTG. Just got my training plan for the next 6 weeks so would be good to go back around the end of that to see how I get on. I reckon it'll go.

Monday: rest
Tuesday: ran 5.5 miles 9.27 /mi (according to strava so probably more like 10.5 /mi!) then beastmaker1000 5A workout - that got a lot easier!!
Wednesday: Bouldering
Thursday: Bouldering
Friday: Ran 10.5 miles 10.44 / mi (according to strava) - was exhausted after 8 miles. Need to talk to nutritionist about that tomorrow in my assessment.
Saturday: rest
Sunday: weighted dead hangs on 10mm edge - 5sec on/20off - 7.5kg. Unable to do this successfully for 5 seconds each time so didn't progress back up to 10kg. Then bouldering - got a few V3s that I tried a while back.

Time to hit the ground running with training and work on my diet.

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy.

I reached my conclusions from the fact that my climbing plan I formulated from looking at the problems didn't match what I did/could do on the problem. Particularly my ability to keep feet on on steep ground. It's just use it or lose it I guess.

I had an OK week. 1 session at BoulderUK. Did the same again and climbed all the problems up to V5 and then tried the V5's.Now done all the V5's downstairs bar one. Need to get stuck into some 6's next time. Had another session while coaching. Did quite a bit of random climbing and then had a core/physio session.

Did a couple more physio/stretching/core sessions during the week to keep ticking over.

This week will be/is bad. No climbing planned as got exam/viva tomorrow and then essay in on Friday. I'm then working at the wall all weekend. I may try Fri eve or Sun eve but after spending 20+ hours in climbing walls I may not fancy it.

In reply to TheFasting:

What a way to make me feel week
I started this but can only do 1 pull up with 8kg attached

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

Yeah I think I am seeing progress as the I have been increasing the weight slightly each week.
This is the first time I have ever really lifted weights though so will see how it goes did not realise how week I was in leg strength. I thought I would of been quite good from spending time in the hills but obviously not.
The reason for it is I am off to the alps for the first time in July so I want to increase my leg strength

Mon - 8km
Tue - 9km run
Wen -Rest
Thursday - Am - climb 15 min on 10 min off x3 on the auto belay. PM - squats 54kg 4 x 5, Pull ups 1 x 2 @8kg, Box step 34kg 4 x 5, Deadlifts - used 20kg just to practice form
Fri - rest
Sat - family walk and then the same strength set as above
Sunday - Easy climbing at wintours 3 x vidiff routes in approach shoes

Happy Training
Lee

In reply to guy127917:


Thanks Guy. Double update from me.

27th Feb
M - Wall routes session - Warm up. Then my third go at a sandbag 6b+, Got it this time after working it out last time. Then on to the purple 7a. Did it first go, felt much stronger on it today. 11 tie ins. 6c 2nd go after blowing the O/S last week.
T - Lunchtime: 4 x 10 Feet raised push ups
Evening: 30 min yoga stretching
W - Lunch: 4 x (2x30 Sec - Star Plank)
Evening: Sandbag Strength workout - 3 x 3s - 3 min rests. 22.5kg bag (Rotational Lunge / Power Clean / Military Press ) Can go heavier.
Steve Maisch Max Hang Fingerboard. Wk 3 - 5 Sets.Half Crimp 22mm - 78kg (+5)
Struggled to make 10 seconds on the hangs this week, but that’s the last week.
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
F - Rest
S - Flight.
S - Mount Etna.

6th Mar
M-S
San Vito Lo Capo. A great place, and somewhere I’m definitely keen to go back to. Some fantastic beautiful and long routes. 5 x 6c O/S attempts, about 1 a day, as was my aim, but didn’t manage any. A little disappointing as there were 2 I would have had a good chance at with full commitment, instead of bottling it above the bolt. i.e. did them first time once I’d cheat clipped the next bolt. A third, I was robbed by early morning grease, made it to the finishing slopey jug, but slipped off. Came back in the afternoon and did it first go.

So priority now is continue working on the head game. Sticking to sports climbing for a couple of months is probably the best way to deal with this, as failing the O/S isn’t such a big deal as it is in trad. So I can get on harder stuff and get more mileage, as experience of harder moves on rock will help too. Didn’t sport climb much at all last year, so before this trip I’ve probably only been on a few routes with >6c climbing.

In reply to leeboy1985:

If it helps you probably climb much harder than me

In reply to TheFasting:

I doubt that but it does motivate me to try harder 😀

In reply to guy127917:

For future matt

Weight - Really fat...

M - S - Nothing you lazy sod.

Aims:

Not be lazy!