UKC Forums - Grading a Dyno?

Grading a Dyno?

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Greasy Prusiks 20 Mar 2017

Hi,

I've never graded anything this dynamic before and I'm looking for some advice on a grade.

The problem is a one move dyno of about 6ft hands to hand, straight up a slightly overhanging wall. The start holds are good (both for hands and feet) and the finish is a good jug but is caught one handed.

Any thoughts welcome.

Post edited at 11:13

Andy Hardy 20 Mar 2017

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

D0 ?

(apparently all uppercase is banned! who knew?)

AMorris 20 Mar 2017

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

dyno's are pretty much ungreadeable imo, but 6 ft from jugs to a jug is not a long dyno, since most people dont even really need to jump to span 6ft. With that in mind maybe 6A+.

But like I said, they are largely ungradeable.

alx 20 Mar 2017

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Compare it to other dyno's in the area already graded or famous bench marks you have tried.

OP Greasy Prusiks 20 Mar 2017

In reply to AMorris:

Thanks for the advice. It definitely requires a jump because the foot holds are relatively low compared to the start holds. I reckoned 6B ish so it's good to know I'm roughly right, thanks.

I agree though it's really hard to give a meaningful grade.

petegunn 20 Mar 2017

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Have you done any of the popular ones in the Peak?
The Buckstone Dyno is given 7b, that one is on big holds and a long flight
The Buckstone Dyno (f7B)
Or The Big Dyno at the Roaches, 7a but feels more morpho as you start on an undercut

Post edited at 13:01

OP Greasy Prusiks 20 Mar 2017

In reply to petegunn:

I've never tried them. They look good though, I'll give them a go next time I'm that way.

steveriley 20 Mar 2017

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

I don't really know, but I'm liking the thought of grading by text description. Do another one?

GridNorth 20 Mar 2017

In reply to petegunn:
You need to convince me that it's logical to give an individual move a French grade? I took some flak on UKC for attempting to do so. If I want to describe an individual move on a sports climb I tend to revert to UK technical grades.

Al

Post edited at 15:22

deacondeacon 20 Mar 2017

In reply to GridNorth:

> You need to convince me that it's logical to give an individual move a French grade? If I want to describe an individual move on a sports climb I tend to revert to UK technical grades. Not long after I started sport climbing I was told that there was no such thing as a f6a move as f6a describes the whole route.Al

More likely he just hasn't capitalised the letters.
It's a pet Peve of mine too