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Pyrenees advice

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 sheelba 20 Mar 2017
We are thinking of going to the Pyrenees this summer and are considering either Gavernie or the area around the pic des gourgs Blancs. We've been to Gavernie before and there seems to be lots of info around but the other area I'm struggling to find much.

Has anyone done the routes around there, particularly on the Pic des Spijeoles in the mountaineering in the Pyrenees book? They are not in the logbooks. That book only has a few routes in it, is there a book we could get our hands on in the UK which has more mountain routes in that area? What is the cragging like? It looks like there is some ok stuff in the logbooks. We are thinking of going without a car. It seems easy to get to Bagneres de Luchon by train but then I presume it would be a taxi or hitching into the mountains? Are the huts happy with people camping outside?

Finally a general Pyrenees question, we are going to do exclusively rock routes and would like to avoid having to use axes and crampons as much as possible. We can either go at the start of June or the start of July. We may prefer the start of June but would we run the risk of snow on the routes and having to use axes and crampons for the approaches? The book recommends taking a hammer to re seat pegs is this really necessary? It also talks a lot about routes being bold (e.g. North face of the Vignemale) just how bold are we talking by UK trad standards? Any suggestions of good long rock routes near Gavernie between PD and D welcome.
 oldie 21 Mar 2017
In reply to sheelba:

Visited French Pyrenees several times by self and with friend over 35-45 years ago.
Then used the Guides Ollivier which comprehensively covered walking and climbing and which could easiest be bought in eg local newspaper/book shops. you could probably ask the various UK 2nd hand mountaineering bookshops if they have guides. Bellefon's Les Pyrenees 1976 covered best routes of all grades grades(coffee table book in French). Battagel's and a Cicerone easy route guides were also useful. There are probably many more recent books. There have been at least 2 English selected climb books.
Can't remember names or peaks much. Some classic routes in the Cirque de Gavarnie were the Voie normale (lower tier) and Grand Diedre (2nd tier). Also ridge of Astazou (prob all AD) can continue round upper Cirque to Breche de Roland inc Marbore, Cylindre. Main face of Pique Longue on Vignemale (D) 800m, Arete de Gaube (AD). Routes all grades on Pic du Midi d'Ossau (granite) to W inc traverse of all peaks. Cirque de Troumouse, long ridge prob PD/AD. PD varied route on Mt Perdu from Ref de Tuquerouye. Did various easier routes to E of Gavarnie inc one on Spijeoles (all good).
Only once used crampons on approaches (R Tuqu) in summer though an axe was often invaluable (but went later than June...however glaciers may have receded. Remember pegs (usually in place) were invaluable on the limestone above AD...I find that a large stone is usually sufficient to place a peg but not to remove one (could take one tool with a pick and hammer head rather than an adze?) .
I walked back down to Bagneres from a hut in the Pic des Spijeoles area but it was a long day. There are quite a lot of unwardened shelters inc shepherd's huts in the Pyrenees (Ref Tuquerouye was an unwardened ref) and would suggest bivi bags etc rather than tents as weather often good in summer.
Look on internet...there were eg buses to Gavarnie and Cauterets from Lourdes.
I do have several old French guidebooks but hope to use them myself one day....let me now if you really can't find anything nearer your trip.
 Iain Thow 21 Mar 2017
In reply to sheelba:

If you're going to the Gourgs Blancs (traverse is excellent, by the way, AD), then you'll go through Benasque. Pick up the Alpina 3000 map there, as well as being the best map for the area it has info on 28 routes from walks to AD, in Spanish but easy to work out. Have a browse through the coffee table books too in the outdoor shops (they're fine about it), lots of good ideas. Nearby, really recommend the Bardamina - Paul traverse next to the Posets, a km of sharp ridge, the best scramble I've ever done, maybe Diff in places and sometimes wildly exposed. The NE Ridge of the Posets fits in the same day and is good too, although the rock on the airy bit is crap. Across the valley the Tempestades - Margalida ridge E of Aneto is fun, maybe Mod, the traverse of the Medio has a notch at about VDiff (and fits with Aneto - def crampons for that in June and prob in July too). The classic Maladeta traverse has a bit of about Severe but is mostly scrambling. The Pico Vallibierna traverse is good, especially if you start up the NW ridge of the Tuqueta de Muldors. Haven't done it but the Sallenques Arete on the Margalida looks fantastic, D I think, moves of IV/V depending on what you read. Brilliant area with lots of great granite. Loved the Gavarnie area too but my visit was in winter and a while ago so prob not relevant to yours.
Have fun, Iain
 Iain Thow 21 Mar 2017
In reply to sheelba:

PS make sure you boil or treat the water, even high on the hill.
Oh and camping is allowed 8 pm to 8 am, but not in the same place successive nights (and it's policed, ish)
 Iain Thow 21 Mar 2017
In reply to sheelba:

I know you mentioned the French side, but if you go to the Spanish you've got much more choice in that area. Fly to Barcelona, bus via Lerida (Lleida) and Barbastro to Benasque. Regular buses from there to trailheads, no need for a car. Plenty campsites and good value accom in Benasque and it's a good place to hang out when not on the hill.
 oldie 22 Mar 2017
In reply to sheelba:

Rock climbs in the pyrenees by Walker (Cicerone 1990) has routes on Vignemale and Pic du Midi d'Ossau...it was going cheap a few years ago in Cotswald Camping.
OP sheelba 22 Mar 2017
In reply to sheelba:

Thanks for the advice all. I speak pretty decent Spanish so any guide recommendations in Spanish are useful and the idea of staying on the Spanish side is appealing.
 Eciton 22 Mar 2017
In reply to sheelba:

Cavallers on the aguistortes (spelling!!) National park is fantastic from bouldering to very long alpine rock climbing routes. If you can read spanish then the guidebooks from luis alfonso are excelente.

The you have also ordesa...
 Iain Thow 23 Mar 2017
In reply to sheelba:
There is an excellent Spanish guide series called Crestas Pirenaicas, the central one covers the Aneto/Maladeta area.
Lots of general mountaineering ridges, from scrambling up to things like the Sallenches Arete (UIAA Grade IV). If you're in Benasque the Barrabes shop has a big stock of books (& they sell the guide online, just looked). If you're using Benasque as a base and not camping then Hotel El Pilar in Benasque is good, by the way, reasonably priced, friendly and they will look after your kit for a day or two if you're up on the hill.
Post edited at 10:31
 oldie 23 Mar 2017
In reply to sheelba:

In fact "Rock climbs in the pyrenees" by Walker (Cicerone 1990) has more areas in Spain than France.
 ian caton 23 Mar 2017
In reply to oldie:
Not worth chucking at the cat. Worse than useless.
Post edited at 21:44
 LeeWood 24 Mar 2017
In reply to sheelba:

I've done the Grand Diedre on Pic Spijeoles. Good ambience but helluva walkin. Rock quality not majeur.

Personally I would serach out the granite - of which I know the Neouvilles stuff best. This is mostly W facing however - no sun until 12 and snowy approach likely before August.

I believe the Pic Midi Ossau zone is now one of the better documented with the Alfonso book (in spanish ?). I have the Passage Pyreneens topo - now out of print but you might find one 2nd hand. Presumably you want an altenrative from the Orlu/Ariege scene ?


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