UKC

Reposting in Rocktalk due to the lack of views/response in the Crag Access forum - hopefully that's okay.

The Souter (Fastcastle)

Does anyone know what the situation is with the supposed bird ban at Fastcastle between April and July? The UKC page says that the SMC guide has a "guideline" ban and ScottishClimbs.com reckons that "Climbing between the start of April and the End of July is not recommended", but Ordinary Route (HVS 5a) seems to get quite a lot of ascents each year during the period, with logbook entries generally noting how clean the rock was and making absolutely zero mention of birds. The BMC RAD has no information, and I can't dig up anything on the Mountaineering Scotland website - nothing relevant comes up in searches, and Berwickshire isn't listed on the 'Birds and nesting' page (https://www.mountaineering.scot/campaigns/safeguarding-access/birds-and-nes... Several posts on here in the past seem to have gone unanswered, so does anyone know who might be the best person to contact about this? I've no interest in flouting even a voluntary climbing ban, but the evidence would seem to suggest that the information is outdated at best.

Cheers
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In reply to Droyd:

There's definitely nests on the descent abseil, I can't remember if there are any on top or on route, so would assume it to be out for those months...

In reply to Droyd:

Hi,

I may be wrong (please interject if anyone knows better...) but I think you're right that the bird ban info is outdated. Instead, best to follow the Mountaineering Scotland general guidelines: https://www.mountaineering.scot/campaigns/safeguarding-access/birds-and-nes...

Ordinary Route has had very little (no?) evidence of nests in recent years. Other bits of the crag will be heavily birded at times, like routes on the Fast Bleeder wall, and are probably best avoided during nesting, for all concerned.

During nesting season, it's also worth taking great care on the walk-in. Many beautiful plovers nest in the area. I guess most people will know, but just in case.... if you see a bird doing a weird somersaulting/tumbling motion in the grass, it's not injured, but trying to lead you away from its nearby nest. Where possible, sticking to the sheep trods beside the fence line seems to help.

Have fun. It's a wonderful place.

Danny.

In reply to jonnie3430:

I've only ever abseiled back down Ordinary Route itself.

D.

In reply to DannyC:

The information in the UKC page was taken from the 1990s SMC Lowlands guidebook (I think I entered this information), and was updated with information from the most recent (2010?) guide.

I would argue the information is still accurate, and I would avoid climbing on these cliffs from now until end of the nesting season - March - September.

I have visited the Souter in the nesting season and it has had birds on both the Ordinary route side and the decent.

In reply to Droyd:

We climbed it on 16th August last year. There were no birds present by that time of the year but still a fair amount of evidence (poo! and bits and bobs of nest etc) of them having been there.

I'd suggest leaving it until later in the year unless you're certain you won't be disturbing them.

In reply to Droyd:

On balance, then, I'll probably give it until August, on the basis that it's a bit of a trek from Sheffield and I'd like to do some of the other routes nearby (Plain Sailing in particularly looks amazing). Thanks all for taking the time to reply, it's very much appreciated!

In reply to Droyd:

Sounds like a good approach given people's comments above. Plain Sailing is indeed a wonderful route. Enjoy, D.