UKC

I've got 9 weeks until a European road trip to Poland, I've always wanted to climb a specific 7a in Font, it has always captivated me. I could potentially convince the wife to swing by the forest on the way home.

Does anybody think its possible that in 9 weeks someone could take a training montage of Rockyesq proportions and go from a desk monkey who climbs 3 times a month to someone who could crush a 7a?

I have been on the boulder before, i have climbed that hard before but wonder how hard it would be to pull it all back, I am lighter than i was at my climbing prime too!

In reply to robal:

Easily, especially since you have climbed that grade before.

2-3 weeks hard training should see any neurological gains return, up to 6-7 weeks after starting you should see that strength beginning to return.

How to go about training for it is a totally different topic, but 7A is not hard attain.

In reply to robal:
You've climbed at that level before, so no reason why you can't again.
What problem is it? If it's some 40 move stamina fest you might struggle but if it's a one move knacky/ technique style problem you may not need any training at all

In reply to alx:

Yeah I hadn't got as far as a training regime yet, basically I was going to go to the works as much as possible and hope beyond hope that it comes back but i'm pretty sure that would lead to burn out..... I'm trying to formulate a plan

In reply to deacondeacon:

its the roof at cul de chien, I've tried and tried before, its always been one of those routes thats avoided me. so I'd guess half way between the two

In reply to robal:
Of all the problems in the whole forest you want to climb one of the crappest, busiest, most ****ed 7As going?
Just kidding, if you manage a couple in similar style before you I you should smash it. Can you remember why you've failed on it in the past?

In reply to robal:

You will definitely be able to do it... mainly because the roof is 6B

In reply to robal:
From this website
" Restricted Access
DO NOT climb on the Cul de Chien boulder in the middle of a sea of sand."

In reply to thelurker:

its lucky the route in question isnt on that then...

In reply to thelurker:

Good job that isn't the one they are on about

In reply to robal:

My advise would be to avoid middle ground problems as much as possible.

Go easy to drill and refine technique or go hard to work on strength and power. The yellow wall opposite the beastmakers is good for using crap feet but good holds, or vice versa.

Middle ground is for massaging egos and failing to improve

In reply to robal:

The crux will be finding a window of opportunity inbetween the crowds!

Also failed on this when i thought i was strong, couldn't use the mono pocket to reach the lip, having no skin may have been an issue.

In reply to robal:

How did you get on last time you tried it and what grade were you bouldering at the time?

I'd say you'd have a better chance on something you could trick you're way through with technique that only an experienced climber like yourself would have. That roof is a bit thuggy but still requires decent finger strength for the top, I've certainly done many easier 7As in Font.

Nothing to lose though, may as well get stuck in. Climb lots of roof boulders on the run up where you're full spanned on a heel toe cam and then cut loose on the lip on slopey three finger pockets.

Might want to also practice being ruthless at getting goes whilst 30 people who can barely pull on try it over and over.

In reply to deacondeacon:

I know, its just the first real problem I cast eyes upon in font and I've never climbed it, Ive always thought one day.....

i've fallen off it for many reasons, too weak, too fat, not flexible enough, too hung over, just got off a flight from china. take your pick! I'm in better shape physically than i have been for years just not climbing shape, maybe the trifecta of physical conditioning, strong hands and no hangover will come together for me!!!

thelurker:

I'm not climbing that bit, I know snoopy is off limits, I meant the big roof behind him

La benya:

I know but I'm really crap at climbing.....

alx:
I think you might be right, i spent years going around the rest of the works and never really focused on the comp wall, maybe thats my downfall.

fergal:
yeah I have been there early morn and late evening and its been clear then, middle of the day is miserable!!!

In reply to deacondeacon:

I know, its just the first real problem I cast eyes upon in font and I've never climbed it, Ive always thought one day.....

i've fallen off it for many reasons, too weak, too fat, not flexible enough, too hung over, just got off a flight from china. take your pick! I'm in better shape physically than i have been for years just not climbing shape, maybe the trifecta of physical conditioning, strong hands and no hangover will come together for me!!!

thelurker:

I'm not climbing that bit, I know snoopy is off limits, I meant the big roof behind him

La benya:

I know but I'm really crap at climbing.....

alx:
I think you might be right, i spent years going around the rest of the works and never really focused on the comp wall, maybe thats my downfall.

fergal:
yeah I have been there early morn and late evening and its been clear then, middle of the day is miserable!!!

In reply to robal:

seriously though, spend 9 weeks climbing steep juggy routes and youll be fine. you know what the moves are, replicate them in the gym and get some specific strength ie. bicep, mono and then a pull off a bosse.

there is something to be said for going at busy times and utilising the seas of mats and spotters... just be bold and push to the front of the queue.

In reply to robal:

Not the comp wall, the big yellow flat vertical wall opposite the three beastmaker boards bolted to the side of the campus board.

It has a great choice of crap feet and holds which will prepare your (mind!) fingers and technique for smeary nonsense of font.

I'm with cha1n on saying your choice of problem is quite tart especially if you have big fingers...

In reply to alx:

I'm guessing you're talking about the Works, there's currently a wasp on the over hang in the first ' middle bit' on the left as you go under the big arch, it's got two, two or three finger pockets, then a big reach, maybe you could adapt that for practice, be quick though, it can't be long before it comes down.

In reply to robal:

Like all things, how much do you want it?

Make it a priority and it will happen.

Good luck!!!

In reply to robal:

I'd love to climb that roof. I had a go years and years ago when 6A was still a dream (because my harder climbing mates were on it). I could get up to trying spanning out from the heel hook before it popped. More recently, having improved much since then, particularly with campusy things and having climbed that grade, I thought I'd have another look. Much to my dismay I found lack of flexibility prevented me from coming close to my old high point.

I'm not sure if there is a moral to this story but if there is, perhaps it's that it isn't always just the obvious difficulties that stop you. Cover all the bases. Try and replicate ALL the moves in your training.

Its not really that I want to climb a 7a although that would be nice, its just THAT 7a, its been one of the routes that I’ve thought about a lot. Its brought back good memories etc. I’m certain that there are loads more routes that might be better but its like an itch I haven’t scratched.

I think flexability is key, I climbed with a bunch of chaps from chesterfield last time I was there, they were able to get further than me and I would put that down to their flexibility through their hips, I appreciate that it also takes a fair amount of strength in the core to utilise the flexability but it was a big difference.

Yup do think its going to come down to keeping the phsyc and prioritising things a little.

Thanks for the tips on the wasp, I’ll give that a look this weekend

In reply to robal:

Training on a beast maker on the pockets made a huge difference to me for the 2 finger pocket in the roof ! If you can hang those then the heel move through the roof becomes a breeze!