UKC

Once again in an effort to show all the doubters that lots of UKC regulars actually rather like climbing, lets see who did what this weekend/last week.

I decided I couldn't miss out on the lovely weather so went to Curbar with George. Nothing hugely epic but I did do Argosy Crack (VS 4b) (just next to PMC1). Has anyone else done this? It's a bit of a beast. I did the squeeze chimney method, and my only one bit of gear in the upper section I managed to knock out with my shoulder as I went past (it was a bit crap anyway). Overall moderately terrifying and hard. A bit dissappointed to see its only VS 4b on UKC, my BMC guide says VS 4c, but HVS 4c doesn't sound unfair to me!

Loads of people out and climbing in the sun today in the Peak, and I've seen sunny pics from Brean via North Wales and the Lakes up into Scotland so I'm sure lots of folk have had good weekends. So who ticked what?

In reply to TobyA:

I bailed on Argosy Crack early on on our Curbar VS Challenge in 2011, because it is more than a bit "airy". Steve Oceanic gallantly took over and we didn't do it "squeeze chimney" all the way but took the airy option which is nervy enough even on second.
It's an awful route

In reply to TobyA:

small tree in the park, 2a.
just showing off to the boy.

Got burnt off by a ten year old who went up:
Big tree in the park - the whippy branches extension XS 3a - thought he was going to die on the downclimb when a branch snapped.

In reply to TobyA:

Tower Ridge, alpine conditions.

In reply to TobyA:

Out of bed and the stairs are all I managed to climb, shame as the weather looked great. I'd like to hope others did better than me!

In reply to TobyA:

Nowt. Perfect weather, free time and a willing partner. The only thing was an elbow problem that forced me to take time off. Gutted but I feel a bit better coz at least I'm not the only one. Another friend snapped a pulley last week as well.

In reply to TobyA:
Lovely sunny Saturday in the Avon gorge. Sinister, Petros and Great Central Route.

Surely the majority of us did not climb anything today, as we would have been attending to our mothers.

In reply to stp:

Dude, you've gotta stop pulling down so hard! There must be some rambly vdiffs you haven't done, or just go for a walk?

In reply to jaggy bunnet:

Saw some pics from Tower Ridge the other day. I've lent some old ice tools and a helmet to my best friend's daughter (this makes me feel terribly old!) and Emma had done it - nice to see my old Quarks back in action, but the weather on the Ben looked superb. They tried Tower Scoop today but it was a bit soft according to a Facebook post.

In reply to Blue Straggler:

Yeah, George came up the outside today seconding but it looked tenuous. Might not have knocked the gear out doing it that way, although probably wouldn't have been brave enough to try (the only gear is a not very convincing no.1 nut).

In reply to TobyA:

A group of us went to the Bristol area from Cardiff for a gig, spent the sunny Saturday on the shady frigid slabs of Fairy Caves. All four of us got an E1 tick on lead, which is nice. Quite impressed with the crag, which we shared with a few elderly couples, a friendly university group from Bath, and a crag dog.

In reply to TobyA:
Climbed on Mull for the first time ever - how did that happen? Scoor better than a Carribean paradise (being in the Hebrides) yesterday and Kintra today. Crags to ourselves. Perfect start to the year's cragging. And found a lovely camping spot by the sea - divers, eagles.........

In reply to Robert Durran:

I got to do a couple of little routes on Mull while there with the family last June. Wonderful place, had never got there during the four years i actually lived in Scotland. We saw Eagles too, fantastic!

In reply to TobyA:

Ive got it in my logbook but have no memory of it at all.Probably managed to wipe all thoughts of it away if it's as horrible as you describe lol.

So who ticked what?

Friday- went to Higgar Tor with the floodlights. Managed the get up absolutely nothing but had a few goes at trying Pulsar Direct. The crux really felt like you just had to be very, very strong (I'm certainly not) and tbh I got nowhere on it.
Great night though as one mate smashed 'Block & Tackle' which is a brilliant E6
Arête, while another mate finished his list of Neil Foster routes by climbing 'Linkline'. This looked so, so hard and how it only gets E5 I'll never know. It's like doing 'bat out of hell' but without the holds.
I've decided that Curbar has nothing on Higgar Tor when it comes to routes that are hard for the grade. Every route is hard work but every route is brilliant (and usually very safe).

Saturday- went to the slate quarries where the heal of of my anasazies decided to completely rip open so it felt like I was climbing with my foot in a crisp packet all day lol
Climbed an E2 called 'turn of the century' but when I got home to fill my logbook in realised I did it last year. Did one of those f6's next to it which was great. Then climbed an E3 called Goose Creature which was amazing but I had to dyno off crap crimps because my feet wouldn't stick to anything.
Did an amazing crack climb E4 called The Mau Mau which was just good old fashioned hard work and best of all it had no small footholds so my f**ked shoes didn't affect me. One thing of those routes where I needed a good lie down after topping out.
Then did a couple of non descript but very good E1/e2s over by the Rainbow Slab.
On the way back to the car got chatting to an old guy who'd lived in Dinorwig his whole life and who's dad used to work in the quarry and I could have listened to him all night.
Drove back to Sheffield stopping at Chester Services for the best of the day, McDonald's. They've got the monopoly competition back on and we won 6Chicken Nuggets, a doughnut, ice cream sundae, a coke and a burger. Happy days !!

Sunday- Mother's Day. Watched my wife do a 10k round the Longshaw estate while my three year old and I looked for fairies in the woods, then went to Grindleford cafe for some breakfast. Ended up walking around B and Q in the afternoon which always makes me want to kill myself, but persuaded everyone that we should go to a dessert restaurant on London Road which was brilliant, and we all had rediculously big ice creams. Finished the weekend with off lying on the sofa watching a Disney film. Brilliant, brilliant weekend

Sorry about the epic yarn. It was just one of those weekends that felt like it was a week long.

In reply to myrddinmuse:


"elderly couple"???????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<voice rises two octaves> "elderly couple"????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Pah.

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

In reply to TobyA:

Lots running 12miles Saturday and 10miles Sunday. Went bouldering at Robin Hoods Stride Sunday and ticked a few easier problem (grit was warm).

In reply to TobyA:

Currently working on getting my trad head back on after the winter ....

Saturday: lying in a heap recovering from Rivelin on Thursday and Stanage on Friday.

Sunday: Bamford! Started the day with an epic flail on an innocuous little S 4a; either I failed to see a much better way of doing the crux or I was in the wrong place or I was just climbing awfully (or it's not S 4a, but I suspect one of the previous options is far more likely). But I led Brown's Crack for the first time, and didn't want it to be over.

An unexpected highlight was K Buttress Crack (S 4a) , which was fun all the way and not even the Type 2 kind. The BMC guide calls it "character-building" but there wasn't remotely enough suffering for that.

To the people who heard my loud recommendations and obviously disbelieved them: I wasn't being sarcastic! Really!

Also, congratulations to the young gentleman soloing Fizz (E1 5c) and making it look about V0. Nice work, even allowing for the obvious cheating through the use of lank. *g*

In reply to TobyA:

gimmer on saturday then raven on sunday. Unbelievable conditions in the lakes, could see blackpool tower and saturday still had deep soft snow on the tops giving everything a very alpine feel. Also we shared a belay with a kestrel who hovered next to us for a good minute. It was awesome!

In reply to TobyA:

Argosy Crack is a nightmare! I've climbed it twice, with the airy approach. I don't need to do it again.

I spent the weekend as a volunteer for the BMC youth meet at Froggatt, organised by the inestimable James McHaffie. Perfect weather, enthusiastic teenagers trying real rock and great company. Also the first exercise since major surgery two months ago, so somewhat hurting today and very happy that I can still climb.

In reply to TobyA:

I climbed on Thurs, Fri and Sun.. seeing my first successful HVS 5b on the Fri, which was The Scoop at Stanage Popular End. Sunday also saw my second failed HVS 5b roof crack in Jeepers Creepers at High Neb. Roof Route at Rivelin being the other. Disappointed to fail but they'll be good yardsticks for improvement, and definitely wouldn't have even entertained them 12 months ago

In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Good effort. As for Jeepers Creepers and Roof route, I cerInly wouldn't feel too bad about getting up them. They're very, very pushy and also the type of routes can lead to an (admittedly safe) fall.

In reply to TobyA:

Quick session at Windgather first thing Saturday before the crowds. Truly beautiful morning and soloed a dozen or so routes - really nice to get back outside.

In reply to TobyA:

Sunny Dales limestone for me - 10sunny routes at Robin Proctors Scar on Saturday and 8 more at Castleberg Crag before hitting the A1 southbound queue...

Highlights were getting up 4 6c routes, which prior to this winter was unthinkable for me outside. Admittedly, the only lead was dogged and only one of the top rope goes was onsite/clean, but I'm feeling pretty happy and it's something to work on.

In reply to TobyA:

I went to Malham on Saturday and climbed trad on the right wing. Did Olaf, Wombat and Crossbones. The two E2a are superb routes but I managed to fall off both of them - the crux of Wombat is super hard if you're stumpy! It was a bit too hot to be really good conditions but by god it was lovely to be out in the sun!

Didn't climb on Sunday and went for a run around Langdale instead. Saw a couple of teams on Raven and even a couple on Gimmer, no-one on Pavey but it looked pretty dry.

In reply to TobyA:

Perfect weekend in the Peak. The type of weekend to make you regret having young children....

Got an hour or so bouldering at the Plantation on Saturday. Had a look at NTBTA and The Storm, but it honestly felt too hot for either. Climbed the flakey 6B+ to the right of NTBTA which was fun, and got a proper adrenaline blast on Crescent Arete again Then ticked the problems on Lone Boulder.

Sunday managed a run around Burbage valley. Sunny and cold. Lovely. Would have liked to have had time to climb but it was not to be.

Actually, had some lovely family time over the weekend, and was outside the whole time, so it's not bad really.

In reply to TobyA:

Curbar Field for a potter about the boulders on friday evening.
Froggatt on saturday, got 6 routes done (highlights of the day are Sundowner (E2 5a) and Bollard Crack (VS 4c)).
Saturday evening was an AGM in Baslow and then Sunday was a trip to Stanage with some friends from Newcastle, we'd got to lunchtime and it was 3-0 to Stanage, pulled it back to 3 all before grabbing a fantastic pizza from the van at the Plantation car park and heading home, best weekend I've had in the peak in a while.

In reply to TobyA:

Moel y Gamelin twice. Llantysilio fell race Saturday, comfortably mid-pack finish, nice day out for it. Too nice to go home so ran up again for the bonus climbage. Got chatting on the top to a couple who turned out to be neighbours. Small world etc.

In reply to TobyA:
Unfortunately nothing this weekend as I was working but I managed to squeeze in a day trip to the Peak on Friday.

We headed to a very busy and sunny Lawrencefield before moving onto Millstone Edge later on. Most importantly I think I have succeeded in converting my American partner for the day to the joys of quarried grit

I ticked Delectable Direct (E1 5c) which I hadn't done. Billy Whizz was regrettably wet so I settled for a retro-flash of Suspense (E2 5c) which I had last climbed ten years ago and is still utterly superb. My partner ticked off Three Tree Climb (HS 4b), Great Harry (VS 4c) and Tyrone (VS 4c). The sojourn over to Millstone wasn't quite as successful, I took my first trad fall of the year on Knightsbridge (E2 5c) which felt rather harder than Suspense. I was frustratingly close to getting the crux onsight, but another great route and one to come back to.

In reply to TobyA:

Wandered up Bowfell with the Father in Law.

Got sunburn.

Was brilliant.

In reply to Fatclimber:

I suspect a large number of us on UKC are too old to have mothers to attend to...

In reply to TobyA:

I got out for my first time this year, to very sunny Wintours leap.
Led the very nice second pitch of Cheetah, although if I'd known at the start that I'd end up 10m above an ancient peg I might not have chosen it for my first day out.

In reply to TobyA:

Managed to climb to the top of William Hill road overlooking Hathersage which is a massive improvement on my current virus riddled form.

Intend to start climbing again once body responds to requests from brain

In reply to TobyA:

Unfortunately, I didn't climb but took 5 year old son and 6 year old mates up Ingleborough from Clapham. Great views and they loved it but 20 plus warm kms was a long way for little legs..

In reply to TobyA:

Nothing...

But on Saturday I did a little technical walking up Crib Lem in the Carneddau while boggling at being able to see the Wicklows, the Mournes, the Isle of Man and the Lakes. I reckon visibility must have been over 90 miles.

In reply to TobyA:

Amazing conditions bouldering at Roaches on Saturday. Amongst my pottering I did a few V2s which is good for me and a definitive/Rockfax V5 6b, on sun warmed rock, so less than perfect conditions, which I'm downgrading to V2 5c on "Offwidth": Wildy's (Left) sit start. Goodness knows how these votes came about:

Wildy's Arête Sit-start (V4)

In reply to TobyA:

We went up Idwal Buttress Reds slab no particular route just made it up as we went along deciding how far we could push it in mountain boots surprisingly could push it quite far as it's lovely grippy rock then some solo stuff up to lava slab and finished off with Cneifon Arête it was take a ticket and wait your turn but at least we could chill and enjoy the weather and scenery

In reply to TobyA:

Well we ended up at horseshoe introducing a few of the clubs newer members to rock. We saw ascents of Christmas pudding, pale rider and a first time leader straying off a 5+ onto a 6b and handling it quite well! And then just enough time for me to have a play on rain dance and see what all the fuss was about the top out on 'Nowt Taken Out'.

Next month we'll be introducing them to grit :-D

In reply to TobyA:

Got my first winter climb in on Friday so was extremely happy Jacob's Ladder (I). Just with this weather I expect that is it now for this winter but was extremely happy to at least get something done

In reply to TobyA:

Had a wonderful wonderful weekend in north Pembroke on empty crags both days...where was everyone?! Trying a gentle approach into the trad season this year, so lots of HS ticks on beautiful warm rock in Tshirts. Perfect.

In reply to TobyA:
Started my outdoor season on Friday: Intake. Not at my best but fortunately I had a rope gun so I could top rope.
Saturday: a steady day on Froggatt. I thought I was climbing like Dawes, but it was explained the he climbed with his hands in his pockets whereas I climbed as though I had my feet in my pockets! Soloed harder than I was leading. Even got frightened seconding a route I had just soloed!
Sunday: Millstone. Still climbing like a wuss, but did manage to second several nice routes.
A great weekend even if I was "off form" with a total of 22 routes over the three days.
Hope everyone else had an enjoyable time in the sun!

In reply to TobyA:

Saturday wandered up Helvellyn with daughter
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1412820985406333&id=2112026...
Sunday, climbing cancelled due to wife insisting mothers day comes first

In reply to TobyA:
Beautiful sunny day Saturday but ironically spent it in the shade of a north facing crag. Conditions too perfect to pass up chance to tick a major goal of mine: Shock Horror at Ilkley Rocky Valley. What an amazing line. Loved it. Was back out with my climbing partner Ben who's had a crap time with injury and surgery so pleased for him too that he got some routes in as well as belaying me on my project. Great day.

In reply to TobyA:
To the Roaches on a club meet. Did three three star V Diffs Maud's Garden (HVD 3c), Right Route (VD) and Pedestal Route (HVD 4a), all of which, I can report, were much, much harder than they were when I first did them about 47 years ago. Still good to make their re-acquaintance and be reminded of how little pro there was in those far off days and good to be back in harness after a 2016 season to forget.

In reply to BusyLizzie:
Didn't mean you, of course...! There were certainly some people there in their prime as well, haha!

In reply to myrddinmuse:

No, of course. We probably looked quite sprightly cos we had left the zimmer frames in the car.
xx

In reply to Offwidth:


Yes, and I've never understood how anyone could think Wildy's Left (Arete) could possibly be the same grade as Wildy's Right, either.

In reply to TobyA:

I spent all of Sunday on a project on an unclimbed gritstone wall in beautiful weather.


Sadly it was the the one on the end of our house and the project was to stop water leaking into it.

In reply to John Kelly:
I was up Helvellyn on Saturday. Scrambled up the grade 3 on Brown Cove Crags (started from the Thirlmere side).
Hadn't anticipated so much snow/ice. Hence no crampons, no ice axes.
The grade 3 was going well until we came across a really steep section and pitons in the rock... That's when we realised we might be a bit out of our depth/off the scramble route and onto a climb!

In reply to TobyA:
Friday started with a trip to Lawrencefield climbing a few of the classics with a frend from the wall, then on to Higgertor for a lantern session Climbing Block and Tackle (E6 6b)
Saturday started at 6am for a quick day trip to the slate climbingColossus (E3 5c) after a aborted atempet on Poetry Pink (E5 6b) to hot for me again.
Sunday was spent resting and enjoying a nice Indian meal from the Maazi in Hathersage.
And for that exstra long weekend felling had a drive over to the Roaches Lower Tierfor a ground up attempt on Barriers in Time (E6 6b) and Stretch and Mantel (f6C) I may keep going and extend my weekend into next week end as I'm currently surplus to requirements.

All of this was possible because I climbe with people who love climbing and will always go that extra mile to do good things.
Thank you everyone.

In reply to TobyA:

A long weekend for me, climbing Thurs - Sunday.

Thursday: soloing some short routes at Hutton Roof Crags. Ingleborough in the distance was covered in snow and I was happy as Larry. Then I got burnt off by some school boys who turned up at lunch time to solo a few routes in school uniforms and muddy bare feet!

Friday: went to Crookrise for the first time, with a good friend. We did a few routes, the best of which was Long Climb (HS 4b). A real fight with great jamming through the bulge.

Saturday I went for a "cycle" with my girlfriend, which turned into a gentle amble on the sun-dappled rock of the Fairy Steps, before heading to Silverdale for a pint at Woodies. I was pleased to get up The Mote of Mark (HVS 5b), but most proud of my partner getting up Cormach (HS 4b).

Sunday, I went for my first UK sport climbing experience at Giggleswick South, where I soon overcame my skepticism and where the highlights of the day were The Constant Gardener (6a) and the fantastic Bonhomie (6a+) - which apparently used to be a HVS 5a...! Yorkshiremen are as stingy with their grades as they are with their money, obviously...! (Family from Barnsley, so said with fondness...)

All in all, what fantastic weather. And what a shame to be back to work...

In reply to TobyA:

Well, the only climbs I did actually on the weekend were Battenburg, Left Edge and Lady X at Ksar Rock in the Anti-Atlas, but that was on the back of a whole week climbing out in Morocco.

Not really sure I can motivate myself to head down to Avon this weekend after that...

In reply to TobyA:

Green Gully on Thursday, Glovers Chimney on Friday and Tower Ridge on Saturday, all in superb conditions and weather An excellent weekend! When we looked at Tower Scoop on Sunday it was climbable, but the first pitch was unprotectable as the ice was too thin to take screws. We decided we'd had three great days already and wasn't worth the risk, so went back for a leisurely lunch at the CIC and met some lovely huskies! The strap on your old helmet appears to have given up on the walk back out though.

In reply to ChrisH89:


How my stashed-in-Emma's-dad's-attic-'Finland helmet' ended up on Ben Nevis via Newcastle I'm not quite sure... but it looks my old Quarks have finally done some Scottish routes, which is cool even if I wasn't using them! The weather looked perfect for you guys - very jealous. I did Tower Ridge on a day like that but it must be 21 years ago now. Need to repeat it i think!

In reply to TobyA:
Ardnamurchan stuff. Had its moments.

In reply to TobyA:

Here we go again then (nobody did this last week and I forgot to as I didn't manage to get out climbing). Sunny weekend for many I think. What daring deeds were done?

I'm off the proper mountains on Wednesday so felt I shouldn't abandon the family for too long this weekend, but a post here on UKC for a last minute partner worked superbly and I had a great afternoon at Burbage South with Buxtoncoffeelover (Nik), dr botnik (Rob) and Brannock (John). I led Fox House Flake and Byne's Crack, both high on my ever diminishing list of starred Eastern Grit VSs that I haven't done yet. The contenders in the future UKC crack glove review got doled out as well so we all aggressively fist and hand jammed with comfort and confidence - and I've got the pics to prove it of Rob and John! Thanks for the company chaps and particularly the belays from Nik.

Today I took the family to the beach and had a lovely swim in North Sea, having first gone to see some seals in the seal sanctuary. A wetsuit may well have been involved but then what would you expect from someone who wears crack gloves on classic VSs?

In reply to TobyA:

Smashed 7 routes on Bamford edge and got my better half leading comfortably. Great weather for both days.

In reply to TobyA:
A few favourites at Wildcat, both days. Glorious sun, beautiful rock, and long routes, jackdaws and numerous other smaller but quieter birds, orchids, violets, wood anemones etc . Nothing too hard, HS/VS because my head ain't into hard leading at the moment, but soon!

In reply to TobyA:
Lovely weekend on the deeside granite. Burn o'vat is very esoteric but worth a visit even just to see the gorge.
OD'd on coffee & cake at braemar mountain sports both days, oops!

In reply to TobyA:
Climbing partner on holiday with girlfriend and climbing child skiing, nightmare

Saturday
Watch youngest boy robust football technique, team wins both game he scores from full back position
'Tour du Langdale' on mountain bike, bloody path into Elterwater is flippinn lethal, walking next time
Route one Scout crag

Sunday
Bowfell with girl child, twining for 900m, good though, 2.20 round trip, great weather
Middlefell butress

In reply to TobyA:

Tower Ridge in mixed conditions, i.e. still snowy on Eastern Traverse, the subterranean passage half-blocked by slumped snow (hilarious grunting from partner as he dug through) and final scramble full winter neve.

Scrambling on Garbh Bheinn of Ardgour. Hiking in Glenfinnan. Yes I know that makes three days.

How did you enjoy Byne's crack? One of my favourite jamming VSs.

In reply to TobyA:

Had a fight with some gritstone cracks at Gardoms on Sunday. Great conditions for Gardoms as the trees aren't yet in leaf so it's fairly open and sunny and the greener routes were (mainly) dry. Failed to get Nowanda clean, so might have to have a re-match sometime.

In reply to TobyA:
Took child to see some ducks on saturday, backed off a disintegrating sea stack on the Culm coast on Sunday.

The grade "HVS 4b" with two daggers should have given me enough warning, but noooo! The line "looked nice".

In reply to BnB:
I thought Byne's was great, but tough and intimidating particularly the top bit. Not actually ever hard, but always looking like it was going to be! Decided I have no idea what the difference between 4c and 4b is though.

Crampons needed for the top of Tower Ridge?

In reply to Paul Baxter:

I fell off the top of Nowanda this time last year, where the crack narrows down. Felt bloomin' hard!

In reply to TobyA:

I've often thought of visiting LLanymynech, and on Saturday I did - and wish I hadn't. I couldn't understand the rock at all. I failed on a 5+ and slipped off a 6a and bruised a rib or two. I won't go there again! And I actually LIKE quarries!!

In reply to TobyA:


With hindsight yes, but when you've done the first 590m in just boots can you be bothered for the final 10? Fair to say I was pretty gripped for the last few metres!!

In reply to HB1:

Maybe give it another go? Llanymynech isn't the best climbing in the world but it's a lovely spot and i thought the grades of the routes I've done fair, Bay Wall even a bit soft? Bay Wall seems mainly to be yarding between juggy breaks! Just reach high for the next edge.

In reply to TobyA:

That's where I had to rest on gear. Then take out one piece of gear so I could get the handjam in instead and commit to reach the pockets. Making me think about how much gear I place, as I really didn't need that second piece.

In reply to TobyA:

Friday started with what I can only describe a epic boldering session at Curbar edge then onto the Plantation, falling off a lot more problems than I got up.
Saturday was a quick trip to a green Shining Cluff.
Sunday was my third consecutive day trip to North Wales visiting Holy head mountain to put one of my very meny nemesis climbs to bed, then on to Roscolyn to finish Warpath only to find it wet. Finished the Sunday on the slate trying Heading the Shot, not the most successful weekend but it was fun

In reply to TobyA:

Haha - Bay Wall it was - a bit soft? I don't think so, but that's just me I guess!

In reply to TobyA:

Nowanda is one of those classic "HVS 5As" that has its grade apparently carved in tablets of stone, and there's nowt we can do about it

In reply to TobyA:


I got my arse comprehensively kicked at Ramshaw on my first outdoor expedition of the year. Entirely predictable, I suppose!

In reply to TobyA:

Went to Back Forest at far end of roaches on sunday...... everything felt REALLY hard for the grade. Despite not climbing at all well it was still a great day out.

In reply to TobyA:

How's conditions at Burbage South? Everything dry, or are the quarries still dank? Not been up there to have a look yet this year.

I enjoyed the glorious weather with the Pinnacle Club gang on both days. Birchens on Sat, Lawrencefield and Millstone on Sun. Still getting my trad head back on, but I led Skywalk (VS 4b) for the first time, which I'm still buzzing from.

It was the last route of the day on Sunday, and between when I started up Brixton Road and when I turned the arete, the glorious weather vanished completely and a freezing gale started up, with ominous grey haze approaching in the skies ... which definitely added a certain extra something.

In reply to TobyA:

Had a really good day on Curbar on Sunday getting to grips with trad again. Sports climbing at Horseshoe on Friday which was very cold early on but warmed up later on.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:



Must've seen you, it was beautiful up there on Sunday wasn't it and not many people.

Didn't set the world alight climbingwise but was pleased with a relatively straightforward lead of Quien Sabe.
Also did Possibility (S 4a) for the first time and thought what a neat relatively unknown severe it is.

In reply to TobyA:

Fell off Regent Street at millstone

In reply to TobyA:
I'm not much of a sport climber but I went to Robin Proctor Scar for the first time on Saturday and led 8 sport routes up to grade f6b+ (my best grade last year was f6c), what a beautifully located crag. On Sunday I went to Staden and led Nails E1, and Captain Reliable E2, had the crag to ourselves and climbing in T shirts.
Nothing really remarkable, but it felt like a fantastic weekend because exactly 10 weeks ago I was in hospital in ICU after suffering a heart attack and having an emergency procedure to fit 2 stents in one of my coronary arteries.

In reply to TobyA:

Crib Goch,

First EVER scramble and wanted a challenge. Went with a friend, both maiden voyages.

What can I say... It was a healthy mix of WOW this is fascinating and WHAT THE HELL ARE WE DOING HERE

Good day overall, intense wind and cloud coverage higher up but it just made it more the rewarding.

In reply to Martin Haworth:

Sorry to hear about that Martin and I hope things in general continue to go as well as the weekends climbing.

In reply to TobyA:

Went to the Lake District with the Climbers' Club, visited Sergeant Crag Slabs for the first time, warmed up on Terminator 2 (A really good HVS), seconded Lakeland Cragsman (again really good), Led Aphasia (my 5th E2, felt like it required all of my trad nous to get up it safely) and seconded Revelation, Sunday was a trip to Quayfoot Buttress to do Aberration (An ok VS with a bit of veg bashing at the top) and Mandrake (nice enough until you get to the roof at which point it redeems itself as a great route!)

In reply to TobyA:

Did the north ridge of tryfan with my terrified brother and two friends , when he got to the top it was great to see the sense of achievement on his face , brilliant day.

In reply to TobyA:

57th birthday weekend bouldering in North Wales, got a parking spot straight away in the pass yesterday.
Climbed in lovely sunshine and amongst other things, sent a hideously overhanging V5 second go which means the beastmaker regime is working. Off to Northumberland the coming weekend!

In reply to Hat Dude:

Quite possible, we were on the lower tier after about 4ish.

In reply to TobyA:
Bivied at the Laddow Rocks cave on Thursday night and ticked off some stupendously good routes (highlights including Tower Face and Priscilla Ridge) on the Friday. I don't know why more people don't put in the effort, but then.. nor am I fussed

In reply to TobyA:

A great day at Bowles lovely dry rock in perfect weather. First time outdoors this season.

Yoyo 4a
Funnel 4a
Dival's Diversion (Funnel Start) 4b
Hennessy Heights 5b
Larchant 5a

In reply to mrphilipoldham:

That reminds me, that's a place I need to try and visit this year.

In reply to TobyA:

Give me a shout, I'll happily return!

In reply to TobyA:

On my list for this year too.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

The long weekend is over. Who climbed what? I'm on holiday in Lyngen, at the top of Europe -I've climbed a lot of metres, mainly on ski but some on crampons, so I think it counts. Some photos to give an idea of how lucky we have been with the weather at: https://flic.kr/s/aHskY7GAeX

So what's everyone else been doing?

In reply to TobyA:

Le Flipper, at the 91.1 area in Font.
A fantastic few days with good friends and my girlfriend.

In reply to TobyA:

First ever day climbing in Lancashire - bouldering on Thorn Crag. Never been to that part of the country before, very beautiful and there's no one there. We were literally the only folk on the crag, perfect conditions, bank holiday. Eerie. It's a great place with an amazing view of the coast - including the Blackpool Tower and the massive rollercoaster. Great climbing too, and some soft grades which always helps make a day feel more satisfying. Despite not bouldering for months I seem to be climbing at my best...how could that be?

In reply to TobyA:

Wallowbarrow, enjoyed 4 routes, 'The Plumb' was great, crag was quiet despite being one of the few crags facing the right direction for the conditions

In reply to TobyA:

Pinnacle Ridge of Sgurr Na Gillean. Pals had got spanked on a ridge attempt the previous day so we gambled on a shorter outing and a lightweight (ie no axe or crampons) approach. At the summit of third pinnacle we hit verglas and snow ice. Retreated into the coire and traversed to lower Sgurr na h Uamha, whose wobbly summit blocks provided a formidable challenge in locating a safe thread. Superb atmosphere and wintry views.

In reply to TobyA:

Four days climbing on windy Pembroke sea cliffs, including some expeditions into the wilds of Range West.

In reply to TobyA:

First time visiting Harrison's Rocks, managed to get a lot of routes in, very satisfying and it wasn't too busy!

In reply to TobyA:
Climbed Mont Dolent, via a night in the Fiori bivouac hut, Thursday/Friday with my chum Rob, having been up the Gran Paradiso the week before.

Largely on skis, but an airy knife edge snow ridge at the top. First Alpine summits for about 20 years and rather getting a taste for it again.

In reply to HammondR:

Sounds great. Any photos available to admire?

In reply to TobyA:
I shall see what I can do. In my low tech way this could take some time!

In reply to TobyA:

stuff with the nippers at Elephant, Rocher Canon, J A Martin and St. Germain. Everyone had a great time.

In reply to TobyA:

Finally after a long lull and an uneventful winter (only 15 routes this season as opposed to the normal 50+) and with PhD thesis submitted we got bolt clipping, in the freezing shade on the wrong side of the fjord at Ekne. Ticked several low grade lines, but it was a welcome re-introduction to the rock. Now a foretasted week of heavy rain has hosed down any motivation gained from the weekend.

In reply to TobyA:

Did the first ascent of a good new route: A Whiter Shade of Shale (E5 5c)

Get down there now for a repeat ...

In reply to TobyA:

Not quite the weekend (Tuesday actually) but led my first trad S Cool Groove (S 4a)
feels like progress!

In reply to TobyA:

We introduced some of our new members to the delights of Grit this weekend... We saw ascents of many classics at Froggatt; Chequers Buttress, Green Gut, Three Pebble, Brightside and a team outing through Cave Crawl (the list goes on). Oh and one of our newest members did make it up Hawk's Nest Crack as one of his first leads! Meanwhile I jumped at the chance of finally getting on a few routes I've been itching for:

Long John's Slab
Great Slab
Cave Crack - G/U
Sunset Slab
Sundowner

All in all a brilliant weekend, perfect weather, a lot of good friends and few new ones.

In reply to Tigger:

Had a bit of a late start so headed over to Idwal Slabs to see what route was free and ended up doing Charity went up the polished start this time as there was a river running down it last time and slipped down a couple of times only a stream this time so got up it then onto Lazarus and led the fun second pitch again

In reply to TobyA:

Had long weekend

Thursday, slightly odd day which started by being run off the road when me and bus driver disagreed about where overtaking is ok, his bus is a lot bigger than my car. Arrived in borrowdale black crag fairly late and then we struggled up Jubilee Grooves - bold dirty and cold, glad to be at the back even for the easy pitches, with time running short (childcare) we cracked on up Troutdale Pinnacle, forgotten how good the finish of this route is, brilliant.
Friday, visit dad in Newcastle and pop up sharp edge Blencathera on way home.
Saturday - cracking day, early start with daughter for Bowfell butress, moved fairly well until managed to get rope jammed in crux crack, bit of impromptu rappelling sorted it out, took about 5 hrs up and down,
managed to get slight sunburn
Sunday - Wife and boys over pike of blisco lovely day out.

In reply to TobyA:

I explored this place, which is an acquired taste, but if you're into this kind of thing, absolutely worth the effort:

Cold Pike Bouldering

It's a mainly pathless slog up the hill to the summit, but when you get there there's loads of beautiful clean walls of fantastic rough rock, with an incredible outlook over the upper Duddon valley. Really fantastic place. I just stuck to the best problems in the guide, but there's stacks more to play on.

In reply to LJJ77:


We were there on Sunday and celebrated surviving the BMC AGM by ticking the full Idwal enchainment: Tennis Shoe, Lazarus, Groove Above, Grey Rib/ Grey Slab combination, followed by nipping up to the Glyder Fawr summit and down via the Devil's Kitchen.

Given how little I've been out I shouldn't have been surprised that I was barely able to get out of the car when I got back.

In reply to TobyA:

BMC AGM weekend... sneaked a couple of routes in occasional light drizzle on Friday with Moff, as the drive over was suprisingly quick. After the main event we had a couple of hours so I introduced Shark, via a quick solo session, to the Magical Mystery Tour on Milestone Buttress...a long winding route that avoids most official climbing pitches but has optional sections where you might get to tiptoe across an in-situ Dave Garnett's fingers. On Sunday I helped a very shy woman out who hadn't got a climbing partner for the day and after jointly demonstrating gross navigational incompetance we finally reached and climbed Amplitheatre Buttress... much better than I remembered it, apart from the grassy bit before the pinnacles. Incidently there has been a biggish rockfall on the final exit ridge so take care (easily bypassed but best to avoid the brown scar area).

In reply to TobyA:

Could not climb this weekend because of having managed to pull a muscle in my side. Woe.

On Sunday I went for a very long walk and ogled things at Curbar, and now have a hitlist of VS 5a routes with tough reputations for a day when I want a fight.

In reply to slab_happy:

Let us know...I'll bring popcorn.

In reply to Offwidth:

Only if I get a share of the popcorn in return for providing the free entertainment ...

The top three on my wishlist are Calver Wall, Grey Face and Little Innominate, just so you know where to set up the folding chairs.

In reply to slab_happy:

Tasty climbs. I remember them well.

In reply to slab_happy:


I went up to try it but the guidebook description is spot on about the top crack being surprisingly tricky. Excuses excuses, knackered at the end of day's climbing etc. and thought I might fall off when trying the moves, so did the HS finish just to the right instead!

Good route. Sometimes it comes up on UKC as HVS as well just to make you feel smug about yourself.

Another short but sweet one. I don't remember it feeling too hard although I had just amazed myself by seconding the Toy cleanly (including getting my mate's well seated runners out), so was obviously doing alright that night!

In reply to all:

So what got done this weekend?

I had just a quick trip to Stanage on Saturday. Did some VSs and HSs, but tried Agony Crack (HVS), that I have seconded no problem in the past, but failed pretty miserably this time. Totally out of climbing shape it would seem!

Spent today exploring Hadrian's Wall today with the family but saw Peel Crag and Crag Lough where I've climbed once almost 20 years ago and now want to go and visit again.

In reply to TobyA:

Arms gave up on the last crux at Shining Clough and the rest of the session was spent wasting time on a pair of clowns. Total waste of time.

In reply to TobyA:

Seamstress (VS 4c)! First time I've led a trad route on slate (and probably the least original route choice possible for that, but it still does what it says on the tin).

In reply to TobyA:

Managed to grab a couple of hours bouldering at the Plantation yesterday afternoon. Mobile phone in pocket as my wife is due to drop our second baby at any minute
Managed the Green Traverse and half of NTBTA before getting scared. No problem with the climbing but I think I'd better leave it until I'm in a better headspace.
Not many folks out at Stanage which was odd for a bank holiday Monday with pretty much perfect weather.

In reply to TobyA:

After a busy weekend of racing and family stuff, I got out for an hour's bouldering ...only for the dry weekend to disappear in a light shower, within minutes of lacing up the shoes. Not feeling it that much anyway, so did some hill reps and embraced the suffering!

In reply to TobyA:
Went to Ax-les-Themes on Sunday and did a very pleasant seven routes up to 6a. First time climbing for two weeks, performed better than expected! Nobody-else there which is always nice.

Chris

In reply to TobyA:

Early start on Sunday saw a quiet The Roaches, hid away on the skyline to start with Condor Slab (VS 4c) , which I enjoyed although found it a touch escape-able which would reduce it from 2* to 1* in my book.
After a few other VS' partner back to the Upper Tier for the now pretty polished Crack and Corner (HS 4c) which although very safe requires good footwork for your average S leader not to pop off the smear! Which he duly did. Good on him though, first trad fall is always a milestone! All the better when your gear works!

In reply to all:

What about this weekend folks? Weather turned out much better today in the Peak than forecast.

Yesterday, early start - drove round to Longendale and scrambled Wild Boar Clough - decent fun, then walked up to the top of Bleaklow just in time for the rain to sweep in, but mission was accomplished as I am reviewing some scrambling boots and a waterproof for a future UKC review, so all were tested in the appropriate conditions!

Today I was going to work, but Tony called and tempted me out for a Stanage North afternoon. I led Parallel Cracks (good value, packs a punch for a little route but the moves probably aren't harder than 4b); Scavenger - a VS micro-slab which was pleasant, and a VS just right of Parallel Cracks called Magazine. I had a bit of 'mare on that, finding it hard, grubby, not super-well protected so much faffing and whimpering went on before eventually I topped out. Tony then went and styled up Jeepers Creepers in the evening sun, I tried seconding and made it eventually but was utterly hopeless at trying to clear the roof. Eventually made it after many slumps and I think Tony giving the rope numerous helpful tugs - cheers mate!

In reply to TobyA:

We did a tour of the north and headed for Shiegra, stopping at rock garden on the way. Saturday was rained off, we had hoped for a bit of dry, but didn't get it. Smoo cave made up for it, as did Sunday at Noss Head, only marred by a stiff HVS with poor gear. Great exploring!

In reply to TobyA:

No climbing but on Saturday I walked the Yorkshire Three Peaks which turned out to more of a challenge than I'd anticipated. I was flagging a bit by the halfway point and my long-term ankle injury flared up at around 16 miles, so there were increasing amounts of limping and hobbling for the last ten miles. I have to accept that I can't do long distance multi-day hikes, as that ankle was knacked all through yesterday and is still sore now.
I also got an insight into mass charity events and their impact, so I feel better qualified to form an opinion on them.
Highlight was seeing a very drunk man being dealt with at Skipton rail station at 10pm on Saturday.

In reply to TobyA:

Finally got round to climbing some of the top-outs at Aldery minus trees or bolts. I think the team view was that the Carmen/Carmen Jones finish was OK and Broken Toe /Nettle Rash was unchanged (helpful tree root). However, the Mitre Cracks / Cardinal finish is now a bit of a problem, with no practical abseil point from the ledge and the scary herbacious finish above now pretty much unprotected. Somebody could easily have a shock here, especially if it was damp.

There is still a bolt belay at the top of the Hard Labour / Pig in the Middle slab with a big chain but rusting rings and no obvious alternative.

It will be an interesting discussion at the next Peak Area meeting.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

What was your overall feeling? Total disaster or could be worse?

Anyone else with daring dos to report?

In reply to TobyA:

Slab Happy (VS 5a)

(As part of a delightful day exploring bits of Stanage North I hadn't been to before. But I couldn't not.)

In reply to Offwidth:


Looks like I did it last summer, definitely remember it being a soft touch, so take a 'like'

In reply to TobyA:


Well, the climbing on many routes isn't badly affected in that you can still do them, although something will need to be done about the popular routes in the Mitre Crack area - either some sort of fixed belay on the ledge, maybe, or more pragmatically a knotted rope down the steep grass at the top.

It's just that the sheer bloody pointlessness of the destruction is pretty depressing. A number of the trees not only provided excellent protection but also ambience and purpose to the routes. Now we have another set of routes named after extinct trees, not, as all too often, killed by thoughtlessness, but completely deliberately.

To show I'm not a complete Luddite, the slabs recently excavated at the righthand end are excellent (even if they do currently have a bolt belay)...

In reply to thread

Climbed around Porth Clais this weekend in Pembroke... really nice routes and lovely weather but some very odd grading including the friendliest grades for lower grade stuff I've come across in the UK. VD to HS you could subtract 2 adjectival grades on average in comparison to YMC grit, yet the VS climbs were not so far out and the HVS I tried to lead was solid (arguably undergraded technically as a bomber protected cruxy 5a even before any snapped crimp No match for climb id:375672 )

In reply to TobyA:

Thoroughly enjoyed reviving Cambridge Crag Climb but my kids said it was crap

In reply to all:

So what got done this weekend?

I had a lovely evening at Stanage on Friday evening - led Martello Buttress (VS 4c) which for some reason I've never done before. Didn't actually love it that much, and thought it felt a bit hard up at the top for the HS 4b grade in my book - faintly relieved to see its VS 4c in the newest Rockfax. Had the UKC cracks gloves in action in an enjoyable crack of Balcony Climb (HS 4b), another I had somehow missed before. Seconded Tim up the excellent The Scoop (HVS 5b) and Good Friday (HVS 5b) - thought the 5b move on that was fine but not sure if I could stay calm on the upper run out bits if I was leading!

I was chucking my pack in the car at sunset when two black guys walked past me heading up towards the crag. From their accent and look I reckon they were Somali, both were wearing a parcel delivery firm uniform. One of the guys greeted me with a cheery "You are SO lucky!" I replied "how come?" His reply was "This is so beautiful! Its just amazing! Not many people from round here know about this place! We just found it by accident - but it's so great!" I noticed they both had bottles of pop and family pack of crisp with them. I agreed it is lovely and wished them a good evening. Driving back up the hill I realised it Ramadan - I might be presuming too much but I reckon those lads had just finished a shift delivering parcels and had grabbed some snacks and were looking for a nice place to break their fast as the sun set. If they were Somali immigrants I can imagine that even if they just live in Sheffield, they might not have discovered the Peak properly; but sitting up on the top of Stanage watching the sun set behind Kinder - not a bad place for some Iftar. And he was right. We are so lucky - take it from a man with his mind on God, or at least a cold bottle of Fanta and some packs of salt and vinegar.

In reply to TobyA:


You're right and I find this little vignette rather uplifting in the context of all that's going on just now.

In reply to TobyA:

Went to Aldery Cliff, my first visit despite being 25 minutes down the road and a shorter walk in than Awesome Walls. Had the place to ourselves for the morning until a climbing club turned up in the afternoon, exiled from their scheduled climb at Castle Naze due to the winds and trying to get one more climb in before the heavens opened.

Due to excessive faff and rope shortages only managed the one climb, Broken Toe (HVS 4c), which I enjoyed.

Having not been to the crag before I can't speak for the actions of the recent 'vigilante gardener', though if it was recent, the destruction of the tree at the top of Ash Tree Slab seemed a bizarre and unnecessary thing to do.

In reply to TobyA:

Had a fairly relaxed Sunday at Box Bay with some friends. Me and Mrs B took turns to climb and build sandcastles with the minion on the beach.

In reply to TobyA:

Time and weather being limiting factors this weekend I went to Brighouse and climbed on the new 36 metre outdoor wall - quite fun, if pricey, and a 'good' view of Brighouse.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

I agree.

Also reminds me I need to look at Martello Buttress again... seems to split grade opinions a lot, not helped by the BMC swapping the normal start with Ozymandius (first done in the previous edition).

In reply to TobyA:

At a wet and wild Tradfest, snuck in between the showers on Saturday evening for repeats of Fool's Gold, Freezer and Bosch Stop Quarry at Bus Stop.

In reply to TobyA:

Climbed 13 Hellingen in Flanders, included such iconic climbs as the Muur van Geraadsbergen, Oude Kwaremont, Koppenberg and Paterberg. Now I know this isn't rock climbing in the traditional sense, what we me being on a bike and all that, but it did involve climbing up some pretty steep granite ! And did anyone else get sunburnt on Saturday ?

In reply to Chris the Tall:

Is it really granite around there? I've only seen limestone in Belgium. It was chucking it down around Sheff on Saturday.

In reply to TobyA:

Very wet down here in the SW!

In reply to TobyA:

Paris-roubaix trophy is definitely a granite cobble - http://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/latest-news/paris-roubaix-trophy-the-most... - and the Flanders climbs are only a few miles to the north. I probably should have gone onto my knees and had a closer look but I probably wouldn't have got back up!

In reply to Chris the Tall:

I wonder if they quarried the granite somewhere local though? Anyway, we are getting away from what got climbed this weekend!

In reply to TobyA:

It seems that I don't climb anymore... sure I managed to tick Pop @ Koivusaari on Sat and then I mostly toproped stuff on moist Haukkakallio... Nu Moon felt once again hard, but doable.

In reply to TobyA:

A fun weekend up north, bouldering at Celtic Boulders on the Friday after work, followed by an explore of the peninsular crags at Diabaig on Saturday - no climbing cos of the rain, but so much rock to go at. A team were half way up Boat when the rain arrived, but they carried on - kudos! With heavy rain on Sunday we headed east, managing 3 routes (we were climbing as a three!) at Moy before the rain arrived.

If you've got the burn, you can always find some climbing!

In reply to TobyA:

The walls, after my missus gave birth, and the realisation kicked in that i will be resigned to lower grade Peak bouldering and picnics for the foreseeable!

(she's not on here, its cool)

In reply to TobyA:

I had a nice couple of days peak-bagging in the Bavarian pre-alps /; Ammergauer alps - Went up the lifts with the family then did Aggenstein (1985m)
https://www.hoehenrausch.de/berge/breitenberg-pfronten/images/breitenberg30...
on Saturday, then my first self-sufficient mountain tour on sunday - took the train to Unterammergau, traversed the Hoernle group and trained home from Bad Kohlgrub.
http://www.alpintouren.com/AT2006/medien/fotos/28965_H0006.jpg
Not hard walking or too much of it, but enjoyable days out in glorious weather. Doing the self-sufficient trip has paved the way for more trips when visiting my German relations!

In reply to Toerag:
Who was hard enough to brave the heat and get some routes in?

Yesterday I walked down Dovedale with the crowds, I dragged a rack and rope with me but no one in the family were really that motivated to belay me so we paddled in the river instead and the closest I got to climbing was chatting with a couple of chaps who had been doing routes on Dovedale.

Today I went to Stoney with Tim, we waited until late afternoon but that made no difference, the car still said 28 degrees when we got there. Tim wasn't feeling any love for limestone in the heat so I got to lead Sin (VS 4c) which I thought was rather good, even though it was in full sun and a bit inferno like to climb, and then I did Parachute (VS 4b) which was better than the book made it out to be. The latter was also in the shade and a bit more civilised to climb.

In reply to TobyA:

Get down Chee Dale on days like today. Shady options. Trad and sport. Lots of spots where you won't see a soul even on days like today

In reply to TobyA:

Harrison's today

Pelmet 5b
Bow Window 4a
Blue Peter 5c
Snout 5b
Ejector 4a
Ringlet 5b

Lovely weather, rock in beautiful condition with good friction, but very hot and humid.

In reply to TobyA:

Dartmoor as a driver for Moff for the BMC NC meet. First time on the tors. 3 days very enjoyable grunting up granite sandbags including a contender for the scariest current graded Diff in the UK (fortunately cool and dry when we did it).

Bridle Piton Slab (D)

More proof UKC votes for low-grade sandbag climbs can be completely useless, although quite a few comments indicate the issue with this route. Following the topo line in the new CC guide is solid (pant filling) grit graded VS delicacy; finishing rightwards is still pretty scary HVD work (it would have been HVS 4c on Pembroke North slabs where we climbed 2 weekends before).

In reply to TobyA:


I think most of the climbing population of the UK was on Amphitheatre Buttress (VD) on Saturday

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

A bit busy was it? No one else seemed to be at Stoney on Sunday!

In reply to TobyA:

Dartmoor this weekend. Good fun, but the repeated humiliation confirmed that I am utterly crap at climbing granite!

Saturday led Central Groove at Dewerstone, and seconded Leviathan and Spider's Web.

Sunday I got an utter hiding from Suspension Flake at Hound Tor. Redeemed myself slightly on Fougou, but only slightly.

In reply to TobyA:

Many thousands of feet of gently rising warm air both days. As there was no rock involved I'm probably not helping prove UKCers actually climb.
jk

In reply to TobyA:
Stoney would have been a better choice Sunday, as would Staden. As it was, we headed to Bamford gambling on a bit of a breeze. Did Right-hand Twin (HVS 5a) while it was still in the shade, the solo of Gargoyle Flake can wait for a crispier day.

In reply to TobyA:


We got there at about 9.30, there were 4 people just starting so we did something else instead. A steady stream of people went up all day, every time we looked across there seemed to be people on every pitch. We returned at 3.30 and started shortly before another 4 arrived.

We were back at the crag yesterday and only saw 3 pairs on the route all day!

In reply to TobyA:

Wimberry was in the shade all day yesterday, and with no midges and air conditioned cracks to go at it proved the perfect day for some moorland grit.. so much so there were actually 3 teams up there!

In reply to TobyA:

Castle Rock of Triermain, South Crag on Saturday; decision to try to avoid expected crowds in Borrowdale was justified. A touch cooler in the Lakes than down south & just enough breeze to make it a very pleasant day.

In reply to TobyA:

Cracking day at Shorn Cliff on Saturday despite the heat: Motion Pictures, The Bone, Pooh Sticks, Renaissance and Traitor, for a total of five E points and 10 stars. Finished hungry and very thirsty, so attempting rehydration with beer was probably not the most conducive to a productive Sunday - messed about on Ban-y-Gor in the shade for a few hours then finished with a nip down Wintour's and back up Central Rib Route II as a three

In reply to TobyA:
Nettles, brambles, barbed wire, horseflies - yes it's Cheshire esoterica time again! Cleaned up a lovely V2 arete, almost certainly the first ascent this year ...or maybe longer. When you're laughing as you top out and even the guide describes it as 'beyond obscure' https://www.instagram.com/p/BVfSj15FUEF/?taken-by=steverile Happy days.

In reply to davidbeynon:
We've climbed loads of lower grade granite, including plenty at the desperate slab grading venue of Joshua Tree. Also done a lot in West Penrith which usually grades hard at lower grades and had clear sandbags like Terriors Tooth (before it fell down) and Lands End Long Climb, both at VD. Dewerstone was the only place we'd previously climbed in Dartmoor and grades seemed OK there. On the tors we felt like we were back in the Californian desert: only a couple of lower grade routes seemed sensibly graded and they were hard for their grades. Other than the 'death diff' above these two also felt to be pushing into HS 4b (but were at least protectable):

The Vice (VD) ...the start wall is more insecure and cruxy jamming than the start of a grit HS classic like PMC 1 and not far off Birds Nest Crack.
Devonleigh (HVD) .. a really misleading description as well as we found no holds that would normally be described as good for bulge pulling on a HVD... Incidently this route has a brilliant unlisted mod variant, one of the best shorter single pitches at the grade we've climbed anywhere and the easiest line up that part of the crag: at the Pulpit head left to the corner and at the top traverse back right on ledges to an easy exit.

In contrast https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=57405 seemed OK at tough HVS 5b: very safe but the trick at the crux might be hard to spot for some.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=36986 was the other harder route I tried but I got pumped seconding on the lower wall as it was very greasy and insecure feeling in the sun and I ended uo needing a quick rest on the crux bulge... still seemed solid E1 5b.

In reply to Offwidth:
I'm glad that it's not just me. I find Dewerstone significantly easier going than the tors but even there I have to drop a grade or two. Too long on limestone I expect.

Is the mod variant of Devonleigh running from the left hand side of the pulpit block rather than directly above it? I found that going up direct as described was quite thin but there were jugs maybe 2-3m to the left.

In reply to davidbeynon:
Might explain things... the line in the CC topo implies using the hanging bulges above the right end of the pulpit which was a really good sequence in an impressive position (just not HVD). The much better holds above the left of the pulpit block and just right of the corner hardly belong on a classic. Rockfax mentions going up from the middle of the pulpit... I tried that as well: not as good a position, not as steep but even more rounded and still HS 4b. The mod takes the easy corner but the exposed space walk back right, with hands on top, was the wow factor. Another nice unlisted variant we did was the bulging wall just right of Paddy at about top end VD*.

In reply to TobyA:
Was in the lakes. Grey Crag was a long hoof up the hill for essentially cragging, pleasant enough with nice views. A few folk around but saw more walking the ridge line.

Also went to Gouther(to escape road closures). Thought the climbing was similar in nature to Creagh Dubh, steep but juggy and protection where most needed. Really enjoyed it.
Did have the strange combination of an E1 that used to be HVS, an HVS that used to be E1 and another HVS I thought was harder than either!

In reply to TobyA:

It was my offwidthing meet with the CC this weekend, some struggles were had at Brimham, I opted more for chimneys than offwidths and had quite a pleasant time (except for getting stuck in Crackeroo, I definitely wasn't 100% I was going to get out unaided at one point!). Sunday was Crookrise, my mate wanted to do some bouldering so we carried pads up instead and did some of the easier problems and a bit of soloing, I think that's my weather bookings for the summer used up!

In reply to TobyA:

We had a club trip. We spent Saturday at Harborough Rock having fun on Overhanging Wall Variant (VD) and sheltering in the cool cave.
Sunday was at Masson Lees, Sludge Money (4a)Wake Me Up Before You Go Go (4a) we carried a gazebo in with us. I scoffed at the idea at first but later had to eat my words.
A few of us stayed till Monday at Froggatt but the heat won in the end.

In reply to JEF:

Ok, what got done this weekend? After not climbing last weekend, managed a quick trip to Burbage this evening. I did Great Crack (VS 5a) finally. Not too bad although it is a steep pull at the end of the roof. Led another couple of routes in that sector and seconded Tim up a couple of HVSs. Not bad for a last minute quick trip.

In reply to TobyA:

Very quick trio to Woodhouse Scar betwixt family stuff.. Boulders in good nick not too much litter about and I cleared the spring brambles from the base of the climbs. Enjoy.

In reply to TobyA:
Alton Towers on Friday. Was brill!

The climbing:
Climbed at a busy Stoney Middleton yesterday, (must have been at least 8 people there which is the busiest I've seen it all year).
We did a handful of sport routes on Garage Buttress including Dreamcatcher which is probably the best low grade sport route in the peak, just a shame its next to the main road.
Also climbed an E5 called Circe which I had failed on earlier in the week so well pleased with that.
Nipped over to Goddards Quarry on the way back to the car and climbed a fairly mediocre f6a+ followed by getting my arse kicked on the f7a+.
Went home, went to the Indian takeaway.
Ate Chicken Madras and Chips. Happy Days!

In reply to TobyA:


How were the midgies?

In reply to TobyA:

Had a most pleasant day at Harpur Hill (don't laugh!) Introduced my pal to its myriad delights. I was surprised by Coral Seas - my very first sports climb some 20 years ago - it's lost a good hold apparently - which is why it felt a little harder! We saw 3 climbers in the distance. Interesting, varied climbs, meadow flowers, no midges - what's not to like!?

In reply to HB1:

We saw 3 climbers in the distance. Interesting, varied climbs, meadow flowers, no midges - what's not to like!?

The flowers sound nice, otherwise.......

In reply to TobyA:

Well, with a 2.5 year old and a 2 month old baby, I'm struggling to get out much at the moment. However, I did manage to get to Burbage at about 8.40pm on Saturday night, arriving as the keenest of the keen packed up and took their bouldering mats home I got an hour of bouldering in as it got dark and started to rain. Ahhhh, family life, gotta love it.

In reply to Bulls Crack:

HaHa! I almost believed it myself!

In reply to deacondeacon:

None. Quite breezy and Burbage doesn't seem as bad as some (got midged off High Neb last year but Knights Move sector was fine 30 minutes later).

In reply to TobyA:

Good stuff. 'Orrible little blighters.

In reply to TobyA:
Lots of people were out on the valley-floor crags in Langdale this weekend!

Went with my partner (who's just started climbing) to do a few friendly routes on Scout Crags on the Saturday. We got up Route 1 on Upper Scout (pleasant, but a bit underwhelming), before four more teams arrived. Since they were queuing for Routes 1 and 2, and 0 route was *very* wet, we took a gander at Rambler's Hangover, but it looked like a disjointed scramble, so we headed down to Lower Scout. Cub's Groove (VD) gave me pause for thought, due to poor gear, whilst The Slab (MVS) was a very enjoyable climb and The Crack (f4) was a good laugh above a pool of water. Despite the clouds, I somehow ended up a bit sunburnt...

Sunday, I was back in Langdale with a friend for a quick hit - to be home (strictly) by 5.30pm. We aimed to lead Bilberry Buttress and whatever else we could fit in at Raven Crag. I remembered that David Craig, in his book "Native Stones", had described Bilberry Buttress as one of the most pleasant bits of climbing in the Lakes. Unfortunately it was occupied - as was most of the crag - so I set off up Mendes (VS). A good, atmospheric climb, weaving your way across the face, avoiding false trails, to be rewarded by a jug ladder up the centre of the great wall of rock. It was definitely one where you feel the grade is in part due to the care you need to take with your rope work - and a minor cock up saw me traversing back and forth for extra value.

We took the long way to the top and down (via Middlefell's last pitch and Middlefell Gully). The descent was typically "Ravenesque". Running short on time, we went over to Raven East, where my friend had a little bit of a nightmare with Baskerville (VS) - by which point, I was running quite late... My friend then realised, half-way down to ODG, that they'd left their phone on top of the crag... So, I arrived home considerably late... But, my girlfriend rolled her eyes and explained that she'd expected as much anyhow, so all was well. Phew. So it goes.

In reply to TobyA:

My first onsight E1 Crucible (E1 5b) at Witches' Quarry plus Tarot Wall (HVS 5a) thugfest.

In reply to TobyA:

Direct Route and Lorraine on the Mot, Karwendal Wall and Sickle on the Grochan

In reply to all:
Right, let's be 'avin you. Who's done what this weekend?

I went to Beeston Tor for the first time with dr_botnik (Rob). It is grubby, covered in all sorts of veg and cobwebs and still huge and intimidating. Met deacondeacon and his mate Phil who turned up a bit after us. I tried to 'warm up' on Nocturne (VS 4c) (it was very warm!) but got halfway up the upper wall and realised I had underestimated the number of nuts and quickdraws I needed and was about to run out, so downclimbed to the ledge, brought Rob up and he did the wall in much better style as a pitch two. We abbed back down for some much needed water. Then I led the first pitch of The Thorn (HVS 5a) and Rob did the business on what I thought was the rather hard and super exposed upper pitch. Somehow the two routes had seemed to have taken up big chunk of the day so we headed out and dropped in at Aldery Cliff to see what all the fuss was about. We did Ash Tree Slab and tried to avoid getting stung by nettles scrambling up to the tree stump ab point (was that cut down during the unsanctioned work?). Good, if rather hot, day.

In reply to TobyA:

Spent the weekend in Snowsonia. Saturday we overslept a bit and ended up wandering up Jagged Crest (VD) (misspelled on ukc). This morning I wandered up to Craig Lloer for the excellent Kirkus's Route (VS 5a).

A grand weekend apart from too much driving.

In reply to TobyA:
My Left Foot Sit-start (V5), Overlook Arête (f7A+), Muhammad Ali (f6B+), were the highlights of a great afternoon on Stanton Moor avoiding roasting sun,
Pleased as I'm hobbling around on a trashed ankle from a tussle with Curbar a few weeks ago!
Paul

In reply to TobyA:

Nice to meet you yesterday Toby
A few routes at Beeston Tor in the sun. Pocket Symphony was great but the 1 star E2 next to it 'deaf dove' was even better. Then went over to the right hand
Side of the crag and climbed Majolica. Really great route but disappointingly missed a pocket and missed the onsight. The tat also didn't inspire much confidence as it was pretty much just sunbleached string.
Watching the peregrines do their thing all day was well cool!

In reply to TobyA:

With the crowds at Stanage getting some mileage in and as past of that checking out some old routes that disappeared after the '51 guide. Good fun. Also met someone at the crag who has bunions that make mine look pathetic and yet is still climbing (and details on the drugs that enable that)... all very promising for my future.

In reply to TobyA:

Went to Curbar, got on one of my wishlist triad of VS 5as there, Grey Face (VS 5a) , and got thoroughly spanked before figuring out the crux -- though I did make it up it in the end.

At least I feel I put up a good fight.

In reply to slab_happy:

Well done... thats tough in the summer sun.

In reply to TobyA:

Wednesday Horse Thief Wall, Thursday Yarncliffe, Friday Harpur Hill, Saturday Stanage Popular - Sunday rested!


Chris

In reply to TobyA:

The p

In reply to climber34neil:
Sssshhhhhhh!!!!!

In reply to deacondeacon:

It's ok, no one saw me

In reply to climber34neil: haha

In reply to TobyA:

Pex Hill clean-up day. Loads of bramble clipping, cleaning the tops. Watched some impressive ascents of newly cleaned hard routes, followed off by a barbie courtesy of the Hangar. Absolutely goosed afterwards but slept the sleep of the righteous that night.

In reply to TobyA:

Actually went outdoor bouldering with a mat for the first time, at the Fagelberget and Grottan areas in the Aland islands on Friday and Saturday. I was climbing with my son who is about half my weight, so bouldering seemed the better option.

I liked it a lot, do I need to buy a beanie hat now?

CB

In reply to Offwidth:

I wish I could blame conditions, but the truth is that it just took me a while (and a couple of falls) to figure out how to do the crux.

Still, I'll probably wait for a cooler day before I try to get it cleanly ...

In reply to cb294:


>do I need to buy a beanie hat now?

Only if you plan to climb topless

In reply to cb294:

How did you end up in Åland/Ahvenamaa? Nice sea kayaking around there if you get the chance!

In reply to TobyA:

That's what we did for one week before that. We set out from Eckerö with our folding double kayak, and went around the top of Geta and back, camping on the small islands. Fantastic wildlife, very quiet, only once meeting people when stopping for more water at a nice cafe!

CB

In reply to TobyA:

I was in the Peak District with friends. My favourite climb of the weekend was Crack and Cave (HVD 4a) at Stanage.
I sort of enjoyed April Fool (HVD) at Burbage North but took my first lead fall just as I reached for the top.

In reply to radddogg:

But I did that (Finland was warm...). Have I sold my soul to the devil?

CB

In reply to cb294:

Did you do anything else in Finland? There is great trad climbing just over on the mainland in Kustavi (actually Kustavi is an island too but closer to the mainland and they speak Finnish, not like the splitters of Ahvenamaa ).

In reply to TobyA:

Not this time round. We just had a brief father and son adventure after the ministry of education in its wisdom decided that school and university holidays (to which my wife is tied) should not overlap. So we visited friends in Stockholm, went to Aland for sea kayaking, did some bouldering for a couple of days, and back to Germany once more via Stockholm.

Future plans for Finland include hiking in the area between Lake Inari and the Pasvik valley over in Norway, but again this has to fit with school holidays, not a good destination for August or July....

CB

In reply to all:

Another summer weekend has passed - what got done? I went to Horseshoe Quarry yesterday with friends and various children in tow. Anni and myself climbed Slab Cake (4c) which was a bit crap, and Excavator (5c) which was a bit better but didn't actually feel much harder in climbing. We sort of half went to litter pick for the BMC/Outside/Wild Country crag clean up day but found Horseshoe to be basically spotless - some of the lads from Outside had already been having a scout round but reported finding next too nothing also - hurrah for the the climbers keeping Horseshoe neat and tidy (even if the routes are all rubbish )! We stopped at the Stoney car parking spot and quickly filled some bags with litter there, then up to Hathersage for the free BBQ in the Outside carpark which was really nice. James from Outside was dishing out swag that Wild Country had kindly donated as an incentive so lots of people got some cool stuff - I expect they will run it again next year if folk want to get involved.

Today I went to Chatsworth with a very sceptical Tim. His scepticism wasn't entirely unwarranted, lots of lichen and veg, but we all need more esoterica in lives. It is odd how little it seems to be visited considering how close it is to Birchen - it's not even a long walk-in! I did Cave Crack (S 4b), the world's hardest severe I reckon, and Empress Crack (S 4b) another butch one for severe, and Tim led Mort Wall (HVS 5a) and Anarchist's Arête (VS 4c) - both good routes that deserve more ascents to keep them cleaner.

I think there hasn't been much geographical diversity in this thread recently, so lets see who did the most northerly route of the weekend and the most southerly!

In reply to TobyA:

I stood in a sling on a VD - prosperos slab. Which was luminescent green, and very very slimy.

In reply to Andy Hardy:

Do you mean Prospero's Climb (VD) at Stanage? If so I backed off it last year when it was green and slimey and didn't fancy finding out soloing if it was any drier and less green higher up!

In reply to TobyA:

I was on Pavey today, great crag.

Here's my review for CragAdvisor

Well Pavey Ark, what can I say? We had a great time but it certainly wasn't for everyone. Firstly the parking. It costs a fortune and while I displayed my national trust membership card on the dashboard (which I still feel bitter about since I'd prefer just not to have to pay at all), my friend simply refused to pay - a great way to save a few pennies! The walk up to the crag was pretty much what you'd expect from this sort of place. It was too hot and I got sweaty - of course no one offered to carry my heavy rucksack full of climbing gear. Thankfully, I remembered a second t-shirt so by the time we were climbing I had forgotten about all the walking uphill in the sun.

It was a bit too busy for my tastes - there aren't a great deal of classic routes, and of those available, one was what I would describe quite frankly as a waterfall, and another was already fully booked (and there was no adequate system for making advance reservations - be warned!!!). We decided to scramble up to check out some routes and what can I say? If I'd not been scores of times before the quality would have been a revelation!!! Fantastic rock, technical moves, gear where needed but still plenty of exciting run-outs, WOW!! The only thing that could be improved was the descents. We had to go right up to the top of the crag TWICE and scramble down even though the good climbing finished in the middle of the crag. Why oh why don't they put some lower-offs in place to make everything easier???

We had such a great time on the upper crag that we decided to check out the "East Wall". It started going badly wrong when I tried soloing across a load of wet slabs to get to the start of the route - bad move!!! It was so horrible I had to take a hanging belay and throw down a rope , which even got stuck around a thistle for a bit. This was driving us mad of course and we didn't have time to be delayed by this kind of inconvenience (no apology from the thistle of course). We eventually got started on the route and it was another WOW!! experience, this time not only technical moves on immaculate bubbly rock, but now with killer exposure and more run-outs and blind, hard-to-read sequences. At the top of the route we did encounter a very unpleasant wet corner crack, the less said about that the better. At least this one had an ab station, but it was very grotty. Could someone PLEASE replace this??? And there were lots of midges, good job I had my DEET handy!!

And I forgot to mention the scenery, so I'll do that now. The scenery was first class.

All in all, plenty of WOW!!! moments, but all very inconvenient.

Routes: *****
Rock: *****
Convenience: *
Setting: *****

Keywords: Inconvenient; Bubbly; Wet; Immaculate; Grotty; Technical; Blind; Scenery

In reply to Jon Stewart:
Surely *** for convenience? The walk in is much too easy for *

(I enjoyed your account though)

In reply to TobyA:

For some reason we packed some trad gear on the regular trip to N Wales this weekend, and I led my first trad route for over 10 years. In the interim years I've been bouldering and holiday sport climbing, so my trad tends to be soloing routes on grit.
Actually, I really enjoyed it and am popping out to Stanage today to do a few routes. I think it's in the category of 'an interesting thing to do occasionally' so can't see me going back to the old days of 100% trad, but it is really nice to pop some wires in for old times sake.
We tramped up towards The Meadow in the Pass for 'tramping about without a guide, bouldering under Cyrn Las'. Spent some quality time in the sun climbing on a pristine boulder which Mrs Paul in Sheffield had noticed on a previous trip. Brilliant.

In reply to TobyA:

F*cking nothing.

Having popped my A2 bouldering a week ago I have been out of action since and plan to be for quite some time.

So on Friday I decided to give fell running a go (having read that nice article here on UKC), turned out to be great fun. Managed 12km with a 10kg pack in 1h 26' and a total climb of 1095m. Despite a number of short stops to navigate I was pretty happy with that time.

Following that success however, my trail shoes were soaked through with mud, sheep-shit and general feet stank. As they were my only pair of running shoes I did the smartest thing I could, I went out and bought a new pair, exactly the same and on sale. Great! Took them out for a hike on saturday, they're shoes, they work... also great!

Then comes Sunday, and I'm sleeping until 13:00 or whatever (had a little tipple of 18 year scotch to much on saturday evening) and I'm lying in bed thinking what can I do. So, I get the genious idea to try a 10km in under 40 min, again with my pack... just for fun... right?! Seems like a good idea. I have a road run that comes in at about 8km that I do on my rest days (from bouldering that is) so I'm thinking ok, if I add an extra loop on it should come in around 10 km.

Despite going quite hard on friday, I'm feeling well rested and after a quick glass of water and some ibroufen I'm on my way, in my shiny new shoes. The run has gone well and I'm feling positive I can hit my target time. Now the last km of this run is a solid uphill and I'm going like a freaking freight train, grunting and groaning, spit flying through my barred teeth, steam coming out of my ears, past hoardes of sunday tourists... and the pain is building, and I'm still going, and I see my personal finish line at the entrance to a carpark... I pass it and nosedive into the gravel, my entire body is burning I'm choking on dust and the tourists are all gathering round, totally bemused at this sweatty glob of human tyrying to scrape himself off the floor. And then it hits. I cant get up. Excruciating bouts of pain shoot from my toes as I hobble the few hundred metres home. I carefully shake of my shoes and scuffle along the floor to the bathroom propping myself up on the bog.

It takes a good 5min before I pluck up the courage to peel off my socks and like a brain surgeon it is done with the utmost caution. On both feet across the top of every toe and along the side of each little toe, a series of massive red, raw, blood and puss-gushing blisters have formed, I shit you not, little cauliflower globules of fat are protruding out of my phalanges.

I sigh and realise that I now have to accept the fact that along with not being able to climb for another 4 weeks, I also can't run any more (f*ck even walking is debilitating enough). I have now resigned myself to the fact that for the next week planking or joining a gym is my only option.

Needless to say I managed the 10k in 38' which I'm happy about, but honestly I'm not so sure it was worth it and can't help but think staying at home and cleaning the appartment would have been a smarter choice.

As for why I lug around a heavy pack, well winter is coming... right?!

Happy monday everyone!

In reply to TobyA:

We did Skeleton Ridge (HVS 4c) on the Isle of Wight. Caught the ferry over with our bikes and cycled up to the pub near Alum Bay and camped. Did the route first thing on Saturday then spent the rest of the day back in the pub drinking pints and celebrating making it off alive!

In reply to TobyA:

That's the badger. The sling was used to get on the big ledge about 1/3 up. Above it was drier but not perfect

In reply to TobyA:

Continued exploration of South Cheshire's finest 'should probably remain off the map' esoterica. Moss, less than rock solid rock, dodgy, rounded, heathery top outs, rough and ready grades. It was great.

In reply to TobyA:

Decided to risk a visit to Brown Beck Crag despite the warnings about bracken in the summer, and was pleased to find that there's a path almost all the way, not mentioned in either of the guidebooks. It's a lovely place and deserves to be more popular, but never will be . Mostly bouldering, but Pella (VS 4c) was worth taking the ropes for

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Good to hear.

In reply to TobyA:
Joined that most maligned group of people that Top Rope a classic thats way beyond their lead grade.

Balanced and rocked over and up Chalkstorm. Weighted the rope at one point, but still a great feeling of accomplishment to get to the top without compleatly dogging it.

In reply to Geras:

Top roping a classic that's way beyond your grade would imply poor technique that polishes the rock. Sounds to me like you were at roughly the right grade.

In reply to TobyA:

Tree Hee at Creag Dubh near Newtonmore. I dare say someone will have been further north but the weather held and we had a great day.

In reply to TobyA:

Can I count Monday as part of the weekend?

If so: I finally managed to drag someone into the undergrowth at Froggatt with me to do Downes' Crack (VS 5a) , which has been on my wishlist for a long time.

Did not get it cleanly, alas, and will have to go back another day. But what an amazing, amazing route!

In reply to slab_happy:

You can have that one as then I can brag that I got up to Stanage after work today and climbed Zagrete (HS 4b) in the sunshine. Having said that, Chatsworth broke me and I've done something bad in my shoulder and into my chest muscles. Ho hum, perhaps I should have guessed that climbing again tonight was a bad idea. Ibuprofen here I come.

In reply to TobyA:


Looking at your logbook -- that wouldn't be related to Cave Crack (S 4b) by any chance, would it?

Hope you're mended soon!

In reply to TobyA:

Wet weather and broken partner meant mountain biking over the weekend, but got into Carnmore on Monday for Dragon and Gob. Mountain biking in and out was excellent too.

In reply to TobyA:

Went to the Ogwen and as the forecast was a wet morning but a dry and sunny afternoon we headed up to Sub Cneifon rib first and had my first lead fall on pitch 1 a combination of the slippery conditions and my watch preventing me using a nice crack a great route though finished off ok only a couple of foot slips above the nose
In the afternoon we did Tennis shoe I put 2 pieces of gear in the scoop only one really needed and the lower piece made it awkward oh well we live and learn