UKC

Hi

Planning to do a S face route on Marmolada this summer and descend the W ridge VF back to the Contrin hut.

Anyone know if I'm likely to need ice axe and crampons in early July/normally?
NB this isn't the glacier descent to the N; we plan to go via the little hut and then on down the W ridge VF.

Thanks

1DE

In reply to Deadeye:

Yes you'll need axe and crampons. You've got the glacier between the hut and top of the via Ferrata. There is also a glacier below the forcella where the via Ferrata ends. The latter is fairly benign but the crevasses are there and with a mild winter may have opened up more. Each yeR I go back the crevasses seem to be bigger.

In reply to Lion Bakes:

Many thanks. Shame - that means hauling big boots, ice axes and crampons up the route.

In reply to Deadeye:

It's very much personal preference. I've done quite a few routes on the face and never taken crampons. Though people have died descending so take care either way. Be aware not many routes on the south face actually finish on Punta Penia itself. If you do finish on Punta Penia there's only a small amount of snow to negotiate before you hit the wire of the West Ridge. You can then down climb this to Forcella Marmolada and then descend into the Val Contrin avoiding the main glacier on the north side.

You could always compromise with approach shoes and a light weight step in crampon.

I'd play it by ear and see how the conditions look nearer the time.

In reply to James Rushforth:

Hi james

We'd be doing the Tomasson route - so finishing pretty much on top.

Lion, above, says there is glacier below the Forcella also?

KR

J

In reply to Deadeye: Depends on the season. If you hit a dry season which this has been thus far, you can most likely carefully descent to a rocky, rubbely section of the ridge before you reach the main ridge. The main ridge itself is rock all the way until you reach the col where you go south to hook back to the sputh side of the mountain. Theres no glacier on the south side. I would certainly take collapsible poles to help descend, and possible some lightweight crampons, even the kahtoola running crampons will be better than a jab in the eye...

In reply to Deadeye:

Ah yes, sorry, going back south there can be a steep snow patch below the forcella but no glacier. Be aware the cable can also be iced in to the face on its upper reaches. The cable isn't continuous to the forcella but the bits you walk are fairly benign. If you can get an update on the Ferrata conditions before you start your climb that'd help. The bit from the hut to the top of the cable is a glacier that ends in a rather precipitous drop through cliffs on the north side. You're aware if it if you've ever approached from the north. So whilst technically it's not difficult or particularly steep on the bit you'd cover. I'd be very wary of trying that without crampons. But we all choose our own level of risk.

In reply to Lion Bakes:

Thanks all. We're going early-season, so I think axe and crampons are going to get a trip up the face.