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Evening! This weeks FitClub is sponsored by... a few beers, sorry if the things I wrote don't make too much sense
Also, just in case any of you think you are getting pretty strong... Alex Puccio. https://www.epictv.com/video/climbing/alex-puccio-rumble-jungle-v12-hueco-t...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=660842
hms: Fingerboard twice in a day… that takes enviable levels of motivation!
Lancer: That is a good improvement on the fingerboard- did the same happen this week?
AJM: I thought grandparents were supposed to take care of the kids while you do what want!?
JJ: Why don’t you give us your takeaways from you mindful climbing session with Hazel?
Ally Smith: Congrats on the (possible) FA and tick. Sounds like Broken Trigger is so close if you the conditions improve a bit?
The sheep: Chuck your old running shoes out!
hokkyo: Starting to get a streak going, did that carry on this week?
leeboy: Jeez, good effort with the drive up to the Cairngorms!
TonyB: How do you structure a footless bouldering session?
guy127917: how is finger strength progressing?
Dandan: Thanks for the detailed update, I fancy a go on Troll Team Special now. How are you feeling about the rematch with Dr Feelgood?
zmv: Sounds like a really varied week of training. On your wall 8a project- what causes you to fail on it?
biscuit: Congratulations on the coaching success!
Bobling: Stick with it! I’m sure your injuries will sort themselves out if you let them
ian stevens: Good to hear a rest week (of running) has paid dividends!
Richard Popp: What are your plans for peak phase- do you have any routes or destinations in mind?
Spengler: I didn’t realise until this week that your sandbag workouts literally use bags of sand. (Assumed sandbag in the climbing sense)
Tyler: Good luck, sounds like you are going to need it
The Fasting: Great stuff- so your ice season is done now? Does that mean focus is on rock grade or something else?
Just Tintin: Good to hear you’re back in training
Curious Yellow: Good goal, look forward to hearing how you are planning to get there
AWOL: ad111, mattrm
Also, just in case any of you think you are getting pretty strong... Alex Puccio. https://www.epictv.com/video/climbing/alex-puccio-rumble-jungle-v12-hueco-t...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=660842
hms: Fingerboard twice in a day… that takes enviable levels of motivation!
Lancer: That is a good improvement on the fingerboard- did the same happen this week?
AJM: I thought grandparents were supposed to take care of the kids while you do what want!?
JJ: Why don’t you give us your takeaways from you mindful climbing session with Hazel?
Ally Smith: Congrats on the (possible) FA and tick. Sounds like Broken Trigger is so close if you the conditions improve a bit?
The sheep: Chuck your old running shoes out!
hokkyo: Starting to get a streak going, did that carry on this week?
leeboy: Jeez, good effort with the drive up to the Cairngorms!
TonyB: How do you structure a footless bouldering session?
guy127917: how is finger strength progressing?
Dandan: Thanks for the detailed update, I fancy a go on Troll Team Special now. How are you feeling about the rematch with Dr Feelgood?
zmv: Sounds like a really varied week of training. On your wall 8a project- what causes you to fail on it?
biscuit: Congratulations on the coaching success!
Bobling: Stick with it! I’m sure your injuries will sort themselves out if you let them
ian stevens: Good to hear a rest week (of running) has paid dividends!
Richard Popp: What are your plans for peak phase- do you have any routes or destinations in mind?
Spengler: I didn’t realise until this week that your sandbag workouts literally use bags of sand. (Assumed sandbag in the climbing sense)
Tyler: Good luck, sounds like you are going to need it
The Fasting: Great stuff- so your ice season is done now? Does that mean focus is on rock grade or something else?
Just Tintin: Good to hear you’re back in training
Curious Yellow: Good goal, look forward to hearing how you are planning to get there
AWOL: ad111, mattrm
1
In reply to guy127917:
It's true up to a point - both sets have been very good at helping us have space to do stuff, they've both babysat him at the wall and things, but last weekend was away at my parents house for my mum's birthday, which closes down a lot of the options, and having my in-laws down during the week involved a certain amount of social time after work which meant no real training time around that (midweek i tend to go to bed very early these days).
This week was quiet. I grabbed 2 short training sessions, one today (trx and some overhead press) and one Wednesday (bicep curls, trx, overhead press). Been pretty tired but a relaxing weekend has definitely helped. I did cycle 4 days though and entered what is currently my solitary cycle event of the season, in 3 weeks. Need to keep commuting and build in something a bit longer too...
Need to do a bit more fingers really, and to be fair a bit more everything. According to what i can glean from benchmarking, I'm over strong in the fingers for my current boulder grade, hence the weights/trx/etc, but that's no excuse for at least maintaining, and I'm sure i need to be building in ancap stuff soon.
Friends down this weekend and have Friday afternoon off to take MiniAJM swimming. Looking forwards to a fun week...
> AJM: I thought grandparents were supposed to take care of the kids while you do what want!?
It's true up to a point - both sets have been very good at helping us have space to do stuff, they've both babysat him at the wall and things, but last weekend was away at my parents house for my mum's birthday, which closes down a lot of the options, and having my in-laws down during the week involved a certain amount of social time after work which meant no real training time around that (midweek i tend to go to bed very early these days).
This week was quiet. I grabbed 2 short training sessions, one today (trx and some overhead press) and one Wednesday (bicep curls, trx, overhead press). Been pretty tired but a relaxing weekend has definitely helped. I did cycle 4 days though and entered what is currently my solitary cycle event of the season, in 3 weeks. Need to keep commuting and build in something a bit longer too...
Need to do a bit more fingers really, and to be fair a bit more everything. According to what i can glean from benchmarking, I'm over strong in the fingers for my current boulder grade, hence the weights/trx/etc, but that's no excuse for at least maintaining, and I'm sure i need to be building in ancap stuff soon.
Friends down this weekend and have Friday afternoon off to take MiniAJM swimming. Looking forwards to a fun week...
2
In reply to guy127917:
Morning! I used to do fitclub a few years ago while I was training for a half marathon, and then I kind of got out of the habit, but I'm having a more concerted training effort again so I'm back! if you'll have me
Outdoor climbing started for me this week - I stopped in October last year when I snapped my A4 pulley, took 3 months off, started gentle climbing after Xmas and the last few weeks been indoor bouldering and feeling good.
M: cycle commute 20km, yoga, 10min hangboard session (realised that if I use a touch of chalk I *can* hang on the thin edge)
T: cycle 10km, sport climbing after work. Got 3 routes in but stopped a bit early due to grumbly finger
W: cycle commute, strength+core class
Th: cycle commute, indoor bouldering. Got on my first yellow, got surprisingly far up it!
F: cycle commute, yoga
Sa: climbing - great day, best of all being brave enough to have a go at a featureless slab sport route - I hate these! Fell off many times but got up eventually. Very proud of myself.
Su: climbing - first trad route since autumn 16, same grade as I finished on (n5+). Was a bit of a struggle but got up clean. Then slightly disgraced myself by having a meltdown on a bolted n6+. Sometimes it's hard to know when to push on and when to call it quits for the day...
Stuggling to decide what I think my goals are for the short/medium term, or what I need to train. I guess bumping my onsight grades up a notch would be nice - currently trad n5+ sport n6-, could aim for trad 6- sport 6 (Norwegian grades). Probably should be red/headpointing things more often than I do (which is nearly never).
Morning! I used to do fitclub a few years ago while I was training for a half marathon, and then I kind of got out of the habit, but I'm having a more concerted training effort again so I'm back! if you'll have me
Outdoor climbing started for me this week - I stopped in October last year when I snapped my A4 pulley, took 3 months off, started gentle climbing after Xmas and the last few weeks been indoor bouldering and feeling good.
M: cycle commute 20km, yoga, 10min hangboard session (realised that if I use a touch of chalk I *can* hang on the thin edge)
T: cycle 10km, sport climbing after work. Got 3 routes in but stopped a bit early due to grumbly finger
W: cycle commute, strength+core class
Th: cycle commute, indoor bouldering. Got on my first yellow, got surprisingly far up it!
F: cycle commute, yoga
Sa: climbing - great day, best of all being brave enough to have a go at a featureless slab sport route - I hate these! Fell off many times but got up eventually. Very proud of myself.
Su: climbing - first trad route since autumn 16, same grade as I finished on (n5+). Was a bit of a struggle but got up clean. Then slightly disgraced myself by having a meltdown on a bolted n6+. Sometimes it's hard to know when to push on and when to call it quits for the day...
Stuggling to decide what I think my goals are for the short/medium term, or what I need to train. I guess bumping my onsight grades up a notch would be nice - currently trad n5+ sport n6-, could aim for trad 6- sport 6 (Norwegian grades). Probably should be red/headpointing things more often than I do (which is nearly never).
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers - no chance for a Parisella's trip this week - hopefully i'll get a rematch later this week.
Week 14
M - Feeling beasted from cave session. 2 circuits of antags & supplementary exercises.
1) 15kg hammer curl/OHP dumbbell complex x10
2) 80 crunchies
3) 15kg wrist curl x12
4) 7kg reverse wrist curl x12
5) 20 weighted sit-ups (+15kg)
6) 20 press-ups
T - No DOMS Early start for work trip to London; late finish - too much food & booze
W - Continuing trip to London – hungover. Home late. Little bit of stretching & Therabanding.
T - Tor lantern session. Distinctly damp - did Ben's Roof (f7C) after dropping it right at the end with a soggy hand. Should look at the extended start next time.
F - Nowt – productive day at work and lunchtime DIY though. Long drive.
S - Brean – minor navigational challenge finding the high-tide approach - did The Milky Bar Kid (8a) 4th tie-in. Really chuffed with this as it’s eluded me on previous flying visits – ticked the crag now The key was some pre-RP gingernut biscuits from hms and a local giving me beta for the El Chocco (7c) crux (pocket with left, high RF, go to R sidepull, keep rocking over, RH again to flatty below chains, turn LH to palm down to get LF up). Great to see hms making progress from barely moving on the crux of Storm Warning to 1-hanging the independent floor to break section.
S - Huntsham - minor navigational challenge finding the Slug boulder – did a bunch of traversey boulder problems, culminating in Low Blow (f7B+) – the key this time was hms providing a pre-RP chewy bar and finding a cheeky kneebar before you join Golden Bicep.
STG – end of Mar - report card:
Maintain grumble free elbows - tick
Stick to the plan; an-cap & specific strength gains for projects (deadhangs on pockets & small edges and steep bouldering with good scapular control) - tick
RPs on cave projects; Broken Trigger, back-up project (done) & new bolted line - 1/3 - room for improvement
Get a new bathroom fitted – tick
Deadlift 110kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar - hotel gym fail
New STG – end of Apr:
Maintain grumble free elbows
Stick to the plan; an-cap & specific strength gains for projects (deadhangs on pockets & small edges and steep bouldering with good scapular control); re-introduce aero-cap
Get a new floor fitted in lounge & hall and make room for the lady to move in.
RPs on cave projects; Broken Trigger & new bolted line
Get a new bathroom fitted – tick
Deadlift 110kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
MTG – end of May:
Stick to the plan: An-cap, re-introduce aero-cap and strength gains
Aim to get an-cap levels up to >33moves/70seconds (ultimately get my an-cap=aero-power level when first tested on the lattice board; 39moves!)
Aim to get finger-strength up to 100% on Lattice rung & BM2K lower slot, with associated shoulder stability to go with it. (Pillbox, Cheshire Sandstone & 30degree system board bouldering; assisted 1-arm deadhangs & weighted BM2K lower edge/slot max-hangs)
Deadlift 120kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or natural grit traverse?)
Investigate FA options at Malham
8A/+’s in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life (TICK) or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Devil's Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
Cheers - no chance for a Parisella's trip this week - hopefully i'll get a rematch later this week.
Week 14
M - Feeling beasted from cave session. 2 circuits of antags & supplementary exercises.
1) 15kg hammer curl/OHP dumbbell complex x10
2) 80 crunchies
3) 15kg wrist curl x12
4) 7kg reverse wrist curl x12
5) 20 weighted sit-ups (+15kg)
6) 20 press-ups
T - No DOMS Early start for work trip to London; late finish - too much food & booze
W - Continuing trip to London – hungover. Home late. Little bit of stretching & Therabanding.
T - Tor lantern session. Distinctly damp - did Ben's Roof (f7C) after dropping it right at the end with a soggy hand. Should look at the extended start next time.
F - Nowt – productive day at work and lunchtime DIY though. Long drive.
S - Brean – minor navigational challenge finding the high-tide approach - did The Milky Bar Kid (8a) 4th tie-in. Really chuffed with this as it’s eluded me on previous flying visits – ticked the crag now The key was some pre-RP gingernut biscuits from hms and a local giving me beta for the El Chocco (7c) crux (pocket with left, high RF, go to R sidepull, keep rocking over, RH again to flatty below chains, turn LH to palm down to get LF up). Great to see hms making progress from barely moving on the crux of Storm Warning to 1-hanging the independent floor to break section.
S - Huntsham - minor navigational challenge finding the Slug boulder – did a bunch of traversey boulder problems, culminating in Low Blow (f7B+) – the key this time was hms providing a pre-RP chewy bar and finding a cheeky kneebar before you join Golden Bicep.
STG – end of Mar - report card:
Maintain grumble free elbows - tick
Stick to the plan; an-cap & specific strength gains for projects (deadhangs on pockets & small edges and steep bouldering with good scapular control) - tick
RPs on cave projects; Broken Trigger, back-up project (done) & new bolted line - 1/3 - room for improvement
Get a new bathroom fitted – tick
Deadlift 110kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar - hotel gym fail
New STG – end of Apr:
Maintain grumble free elbows
Stick to the plan; an-cap & specific strength gains for projects (deadhangs on pockets & small edges and steep bouldering with good scapular control); re-introduce aero-cap
Get a new floor fitted in lounge & hall and make room for the lady to move in.
RPs on cave projects; Broken Trigger & new bolted line
Get a new bathroom fitted – tick
Deadlift 110kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
MTG – end of May:
Stick to the plan: An-cap, re-introduce aero-cap and strength gains
Aim to get an-cap levels up to >33moves/70seconds (ultimately get my an-cap=aero-power level when first tested on the lattice board; 39moves!)
Aim to get finger-strength up to 100% on Lattice rung & BM2K lower slot, with associated shoulder stability to go with it. (Pillbox, Cheshire Sandstone & 30degree system board bouldering; assisted 1-arm deadhangs & weighted BM2K lower edge/slot max-hangs)
Deadlift 120kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or natural grit traverse?)
Investigate FA options at Malham
8A/+’s in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life (TICK) or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Devil's Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
3
In reply to guy127917:
thanks Guy. The 2 FB in a day was to relieve stress after an emotional weekend. I've done 2 sessions of mixed stuff in a day before, but never 2 FB I don't think! Busy & productive week:
M - cycle commute.
T - cycle commute. UCR routes session with psychocoach. 16 routes in blocks of 2 or 3, including some good onsight attempts whilst already rather pumped. Main tick was the 7a with the dodgy clip which I failed to OS last visit - stormed it early on.
W - cycle commute. 2 miles urban walking. FB - warmup then 7/3/8/4 with plus 10kg 20mm edges, further twice with +7.5kg to try to maintain good shoulder form. This is getting easier which is good. 2 BW pullups on most hold types to finish (not the sloppier slopers or the teeny crimp, and I'm still stoutly avoiding trying back 2!)
T - cycle commute. TCA session. Waltzed round the new reds (4-6a) including a dyno - yes, I did a proper dyno!! Cup of tea, then trying much harder problems in the mothership plus more of the blues (6a+ to 6c, but they seem to have forgotten to set any at the low end!). Got another, tried umpteen more, then burst a bloodvessel in my middle finger which rapidly swelled up and went plum coloured. Went home to ice with the sacrificial bag of Sainsbury's green beans we retain for this purpose!
F - 2 miles urban walking.
S - Brean. Warmups then 3 goes on lower section to break of Storm Warming. As Ally says, went from utter frustration to getting all the way to the upper undercut in a one. Felt really strong on the little crimps too, so all this effort seems to be paying off.
S - Huntsham. Multiple tries on Aims Low but 1 move in particular was shutting me down. Even more tries on Golden Bicep, which neatly plays to 2 weaknesses - heel hooks and dynamic moves. Went from pathetic failure to really hurling at it and coming very very close indeed. Obviously a tick would have been nice, but still feel I made real progress.
By the way, hope no-one reads Ally's post and thinks that the common factor in the navigational challenge is me. They are both pretty hard to find it you aren't familiar with the approach, honest!!
thanks Guy. The 2 FB in a day was to relieve stress after an emotional weekend. I've done 2 sessions of mixed stuff in a day before, but never 2 FB I don't think! Busy & productive week:
M - cycle commute.
T - cycle commute. UCR routes session with psychocoach. 16 routes in blocks of 2 or 3, including some good onsight attempts whilst already rather pumped. Main tick was the 7a with the dodgy clip which I failed to OS last visit - stormed it early on.
W - cycle commute. 2 miles urban walking. FB - warmup then 7/3/8/4 with plus 10kg 20mm edges, further twice with +7.5kg to try to maintain good shoulder form. This is getting easier which is good. 2 BW pullups on most hold types to finish (not the sloppier slopers or the teeny crimp, and I'm still stoutly avoiding trying back 2!)
T - cycle commute. TCA session. Waltzed round the new reds (4-6a) including a dyno - yes, I did a proper dyno!! Cup of tea, then trying much harder problems in the mothership plus more of the blues (6a+ to 6c, but they seem to have forgotten to set any at the low end!). Got another, tried umpteen more, then burst a bloodvessel in my middle finger which rapidly swelled up and went plum coloured. Went home to ice with the sacrificial bag of Sainsbury's green beans we retain for this purpose!
F - 2 miles urban walking.
S - Brean. Warmups then 3 goes on lower section to break of Storm Warming. As Ally says, went from utter frustration to getting all the way to the upper undercut in a one. Felt really strong on the little crimps too, so all this effort seems to be paying off.
S - Huntsham. Multiple tries on Aims Low but 1 move in particular was shutting me down. Even more tries on Golden Bicep, which neatly plays to 2 weaknesses - heel hooks and dynamic moves. Went from pathetic failure to really hurling at it and coming very very close indeed. Obviously a tick would have been nice, but still feel I made real progress.
By the way, hope no-one reads Ally's post and thinks that the common factor in the navigational challenge is me. They are both pretty hard to find it you aren't familiar with the approach, honest!!
2
In reply to guy127917: Cheers Guy, no I don't have specific routes in mind, areas yes-basically local, Cheddar, Portland and South Wales and then a rematch at Siurana in November. I could start listing routes but have only been on a 7b once and that was a v. short bouldery beast at Cheddar where it was impossible to get off the ground, just messing around in the rain. My imaginary preferred route would be 18-25m's with good rest and crux at the top, limestone, gently overhanging at least in part, no tufa fests and no techy slabs really. For years I had a fantasy I was really good at slabs where in fact I am really shit at slabs.
OK week, awful lot of stress at the minute, big medical treatment, work and college. Week 1 of second strength block of four weeks.
Monday-Cycle to work, 19k
Tuesday-Max 10 sec hangs. Moved to small lattice rung from campus rung. 5kg four finger crimp. Then 'ancap' style boulder problem. I set it in the woody at TCA-will try and stick to holds and move to all screw on feet, could make one hold smaller if I tick quickly. 13 hand moves-five attempts, failing in last few moves, one move short on one occasion, powered down rather than pumped. May be it mirrors hard climbing between two clips.
Wednesday-Yoga and shoulder strength.
Thursday-Work got in way so TCA busy by the time I arrived. Hangs 3x5 four finger crimp, 2x 5 3 finger open handed, 5 sec hang, 10 sec rest, 5kg on crimp, 2.5kg on open hand. the five sets of five pull-ups on lapis balls, measerly 1kg, 1 sec pause at the top. Should have then done 20 mins arc but wal to crowded so flashed all the new reds (max 6A) bit easy probably.
Friday-Nothing-work-last day of treatment.
Saturday- Bouldering-felt criminal to be inside but...Meant to be focusing on big dynamic moves, not my strong point. Struggled to get going on set problems but then moved to moon board and ticked problem I had been failing on, then focused on trying another problem with no low foothold (other than the horrible slippery nubbins followed by a move skipping three rows of holds, was getting the hold but not latching-sounds stupid but considerable progress.
Sunday- flying visit to Sally in the woods, repeated standard problems first time and then worked r-l traverse staying lowish. Woken up today with achy ring finger from undercut mono, hmm. Probably OK.
OK week, awful lot of stress at the minute, big medical treatment, work and college. Week 1 of second strength block of four weeks.
Monday-Cycle to work, 19k
Tuesday-Max 10 sec hangs. Moved to small lattice rung from campus rung. 5kg four finger crimp. Then 'ancap' style boulder problem. I set it in the woody at TCA-will try and stick to holds and move to all screw on feet, could make one hold smaller if I tick quickly. 13 hand moves-five attempts, failing in last few moves, one move short on one occasion, powered down rather than pumped. May be it mirrors hard climbing between two clips.
Wednesday-Yoga and shoulder strength.
Thursday-Work got in way so TCA busy by the time I arrived. Hangs 3x5 four finger crimp, 2x 5 3 finger open handed, 5 sec hang, 10 sec rest, 5kg on crimp, 2.5kg on open hand. the five sets of five pull-ups on lapis balls, measerly 1kg, 1 sec pause at the top. Should have then done 20 mins arc but wal to crowded so flashed all the new reds (max 6A) bit easy probably.
Friday-Nothing-work-last day of treatment.
Saturday- Bouldering-felt criminal to be inside but...Meant to be focusing on big dynamic moves, not my strong point. Struggled to get going on set problems but then moved to moon board and ticked problem I had been failing on, then focused on trying another problem with no low foothold (other than the horrible slippery nubbins followed by a move skipping three rows of holds, was getting the hold but not latching-sounds stupid but considerable progress.
Sunday- flying visit to Sally in the woods, repeated standard problems first time and then worked r-l traverse staying lowish. Woken up today with achy ring finger from undercut mono, hmm. Probably OK.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy,
Yeah troll team is definitely worth a visit, and The mask is not a lot harder if troll team goes well. Some guys were enjoying themselves on Ariane V (7b) just along the wall too, looked pretty good.
I'm feeling quietly confident about Dr Feelgood, it *should* go pretty easily, but then I was expecting to be ticking 8a/+ left right and centre at Santa Linya and never quite worked out, so i'll stay cautiously optimistic but with a potential 11 and a half days of climbing I think the odds are on my side.
M: Core
T: Indoor Boulder; Continuity, 8 min on 8 min off
W: Indoor Boulder; 2 on 1 off, this is really a route session but my partner has flu so I did it on the steep board instead, up V3 down V2 up V3 down V2 worked out to 2 minutes perfectly.
It was a real fight towards the end which is good, but too much jug hauling meant I pulled flapper and 2 blisters on my palms! Oops.
T: Core. Also did gymnastic bodyweight exercises and a new raft of hip stretches.
F: Rings and Bar; On Ollie's advice I rigged up a wide bar in the boulder shed so I could do extra wide pull ups, did 4 good sets of 8, filmed some to check form and it all looks good, good engagement all around the scapula, biceps barely doing anything. Also did a quick pockets session on the board, ticked another variation on really poor feet.
S: Indoor routes; Mrs Dandan wanted a relatively easy session this close to holiday so we didn't go outdoors, I was supposed to do a polarised continuity session but with 3 healing blisters I didn't want to do 5x 4 minute reps on jugs so just mooched about doing some harder stuff.
S: Rings and Bar again plus got all motivated and pushed on with painting the interior of the workshop, it's looking mighty white inside now!
Finger is ticking along, no miraculous improvements but I've definitely not made it worse this week which is a relief. I'm just hoping this lack of hard climbing means I can still be at least vaguely close to a peak for Margalef, Tom seems to think you can hold a peak for several weeks so I should be ok.
I weighed myself at the weekend and I've managed to gain 6 pounds from nowhere! I blame the lower intensity training and not the copious birthday samosas and cake I've eaten in the last month or so. Either way i'll keep an eye on the calories this week, I should comfortably be able to knock half of that back off before we fly, the first few pounds are always the easiest.
Last Weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK (plus hip stretches)
At least 1 session on the pockets ready for margalef - TICK
Focus on getting momentum from the legs on easier ground - Semi tick, need to keep this at the front of my mind
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
At least 1 session on the pockets ready for margalef -
Focus on getting momentum from the legs on easier ground -
MTG: (next few months)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger improving slowly
Tick Doctor Feelgood (8a) in April
8a+
Recce some potential 8b projects in Margalef for October
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 1 done 1 booked and 2 in the planning stage
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
> Dandan: Thanks for the detailed update, I fancy a go on Troll Team Special now. How are you feeling about the rematch with Dr Feelgood?
Cheers Guy,
Yeah troll team is definitely worth a visit, and The mask is not a lot harder if troll team goes well. Some guys were enjoying themselves on Ariane V (7b) just along the wall too, looked pretty good.
I'm feeling quietly confident about Dr Feelgood, it *should* go pretty easily, but then I was expecting to be ticking 8a/+ left right and centre at Santa Linya and never quite worked out, so i'll stay cautiously optimistic but with a potential 11 and a half days of climbing I think the odds are on my side.
M: Core
T: Indoor Boulder; Continuity, 8 min on 8 min off
W: Indoor Boulder; 2 on 1 off, this is really a route session but my partner has flu so I did it on the steep board instead, up V3 down V2 up V3 down V2 worked out to 2 minutes perfectly.
It was a real fight towards the end which is good, but too much jug hauling meant I pulled flapper and 2 blisters on my palms! Oops.
T: Core. Also did gymnastic bodyweight exercises and a new raft of hip stretches.
F: Rings and Bar; On Ollie's advice I rigged up a wide bar in the boulder shed so I could do extra wide pull ups, did 4 good sets of 8, filmed some to check form and it all looks good, good engagement all around the scapula, biceps barely doing anything. Also did a quick pockets session on the board, ticked another variation on really poor feet.
S: Indoor routes; Mrs Dandan wanted a relatively easy session this close to holiday so we didn't go outdoors, I was supposed to do a polarised continuity session but with 3 healing blisters I didn't want to do 5x 4 minute reps on jugs so just mooched about doing some harder stuff.
S: Rings and Bar again plus got all motivated and pushed on with painting the interior of the workshop, it's looking mighty white inside now!
Finger is ticking along, no miraculous improvements but I've definitely not made it worse this week which is a relief. I'm just hoping this lack of hard climbing means I can still be at least vaguely close to a peak for Margalef, Tom seems to think you can hold a peak for several weeks so I should be ok.
I weighed myself at the weekend and I've managed to gain 6 pounds from nowhere! I blame the lower intensity training and not the copious birthday samosas and cake I've eaten in the last month or so. Either way i'll keep an eye on the calories this week, I should comfortably be able to knock half of that back off before we fly, the first few pounds are always the easiest.
Last Weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK (plus hip stretches)
At least 1 session on the pockets ready for margalef - TICK
Focus on getting momentum from the legs on easier ground - Semi tick, need to keep this at the front of my mind
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
At least 1 session on the pockets ready for margalef -
Focus on getting momentum from the legs on easier ground -
MTG: (next few months)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger improving slowly
Tick Doctor Feelgood (8a) in April
8a+
Recce some potential 8b projects in Margalef for October
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 1 done 1 booked and 2 in the planning stage
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
1
In reply to guy127917:
Hello Guyser,
Okeys, so I'm going to get all mindful. My main take away from Hazel was to build a learning mindset rather than a fixed can do/can't do, black/white mindset. This was something I was already aware of but discussing it with Hazel dug deep down to the roots, made a few things a bit clearer and helped me to figure out some ways to work on it. We discussed how to increase my comfort zone gradually using fall practice, leading and various other exercises as tools - eliminating unhelpful expectations and re-evaluating goals and my conception of failure. My new goal is to fall each time I go climbing. A day without a fall is a day where I have not pushed myself. She has worked a lot with Arno Ilgner, author of 'The Rock Warriors Way' (a book about mental training for climbers) and 'Espresso lessons' (helping to put this training into practice) and her training is quite strongly based on this kind of learning. The whole session with Hazel was excellent and I would thoroughly recommend a session with her.
Last week:
Mon - fingerboard session - just been analysing my previous sessions and although there is very little data so far it is encouraging
Tues - Rest
Weds - fingerboard - will only do 2 sets rather than 3 next time to fit in my aerocap and falling. Aerocap 6x6 climbing up and down, leading the first climb.
Thurs - ill
Fri – half day session with Hazel – mainly falling!
Sat/Sun - ill and a few hours slacklining
This week I will update my plan to include a few bits I chatted to Hazel about. I now know I need to prioritise this kind of learning over fingerboarding etc. as this is what is currently holding me back. I am not getting to the point where I can really push myself out on rock on a regular basis. I need to add in 2 hours of fall practice and fall at least 5 times EVERY time I go climbing. This weekend I am climbing outdoors and need to employ some of the lessons I learned last time I was out: Ease into climbing each day, look at the route first and then commit, lead everyday and redpoint if necessary to complete a route. I am adding falling to this list including falling on trad gear. My goal is to lead a 7a outdoors within the next 6 weeks by working on these aspects of my climbing as well as the training plan from Robin and my technique.
I need to:
1. complete my food plan
2. update my training plan to prioritise mental training
3. lead, fall, lead, fall, lead, fall, lead, fall etc.
4. keep a note of my mindset and evaluate it next week
Hello Guyser,
Okeys, so I'm going to get all mindful. My main take away from Hazel was to build a learning mindset rather than a fixed can do/can't do, black/white mindset. This was something I was already aware of but discussing it with Hazel dug deep down to the roots, made a few things a bit clearer and helped me to figure out some ways to work on it. We discussed how to increase my comfort zone gradually using fall practice, leading and various other exercises as tools - eliminating unhelpful expectations and re-evaluating goals and my conception of failure. My new goal is to fall each time I go climbing. A day without a fall is a day where I have not pushed myself. She has worked a lot with Arno Ilgner, author of 'The Rock Warriors Way' (a book about mental training for climbers) and 'Espresso lessons' (helping to put this training into practice) and her training is quite strongly based on this kind of learning. The whole session with Hazel was excellent and I would thoroughly recommend a session with her.
Last week:
Mon - fingerboard session - just been analysing my previous sessions and although there is very little data so far it is encouraging
Tues - Rest
Weds - fingerboard - will only do 2 sets rather than 3 next time to fit in my aerocap and falling. Aerocap 6x6 climbing up and down, leading the first climb.
Thurs - ill
Fri – half day session with Hazel – mainly falling!
Sat/Sun - ill and a few hours slacklining
This week I will update my plan to include a few bits I chatted to Hazel about. I now know I need to prioritise this kind of learning over fingerboarding etc. as this is what is currently holding me back. I am not getting to the point where I can really push myself out on rock on a regular basis. I need to add in 2 hours of fall practice and fall at least 5 times EVERY time I go climbing. This weekend I am climbing outdoors and need to employ some of the lessons I learned last time I was out: Ease into climbing each day, look at the route first and then commit, lead everyday and redpoint if necessary to complete a route. I am adding falling to this list including falling on trad gear. My goal is to lead a 7a outdoors within the next 6 weeks by working on these aspects of my climbing as well as the training plan from Robin and my technique.
I need to:
1. complete my food plan
2. update my training plan to prioritise mental training
3. lead, fall, lead, fall, lead, fall, lead, fall etc.
4. keep a note of my mindset and evaluate it next week
1
In reply to guy127917:
Focus now will be on rock grades and getting into trad climbing this season. My overall goal is to onsight f6a and do my first easy alpine climbs in Jotunheimen.
Btw I just want to say that the work you're doing with these threads is great. Must take a lot of time to go through each comment and find something to say for each individual.
Focus now will be on rock grades and getting into trad climbing this season. My overall goal is to onsight f6a and do my first easy alpine climbs in Jotunheimen.
Btw I just want to say that the work you're doing with these threads is great. Must take a lot of time to go through each comment and find something to say for each individual.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for compiling the stats!
Yes, it did
m - 4k run to the gym, 2hrs gym stretches, drills, plyo, core & circuits
t - 5.5k running, 10k cycling
w - 7k off road run
t - 10.5k running with the running club
f - 5k run to work
s - slow 5k run with my gf
s - 6.5k walk, 21k off road half marathon (Baildon Boundary Way), 1.6k cool down run
Very happy with my Baildon time of 2:06:32, about 6 mins faster than last year, plus burned off one of the young turks from the office in a sprint to the finish line.
STG - keep the running streak going without getting injured before the Three Peaks Fell Race
MTG - get fit for Mongolia
Thanks for compiling the stats!
> hokkyo: Starting to get a streak going, did that carry on this week?
Yes, it did
m - 4k run to the gym, 2hrs gym stretches, drills, plyo, core & circuits
t - 5.5k running, 10k cycling
w - 7k off road run
t - 10.5k running with the running club
f - 5k run to work
s - slow 5k run with my gf
s - 6.5k walk, 21k off road half marathon (Baildon Boundary Way), 1.6k cool down run
Very happy with my Baildon time of 2:06:32, about 6 mins faster than last year, plus burned off one of the young turks from the office in a sprint to the finish line.
STG - keep the running streak going without getting injured before the Three Peaks Fell Race
MTG - get fit for Mongolia
1
In reply to Jen Jones:
sorry to butt in, but just a couple of words of advice.
1) be very very careful indeed about taking deliberate trad falls. Even bomber gear may not be, and trad can get you killed.
2) on sport at ones limit, personally I think it is perfectly acceptable when one is stuck on a small section to haul up a clip-stick, clip the next bolt and then be able to really work out the moves to get them properly sorted. Merely thrashing around taking fall after fall after fall with no discernible progress because you can't work out the way to do a hard/techy/weird sequence isn't actually helping with anything.
(hasty edit before Ally says anything - of course this may not be an option on steep stuff!!)
sorry to butt in, but just a couple of words of advice.
1) be very very careful indeed about taking deliberate trad falls. Even bomber gear may not be, and trad can get you killed.
2) on sport at ones limit, personally I think it is perfectly acceptable when one is stuck on a small section to haul up a clip-stick, clip the next bolt and then be able to really work out the moves to get them properly sorted. Merely thrashing around taking fall after fall after fall with no discernible progress because you can't work out the way to do a hard/techy/weird sequence isn't actually helping with anything.
(hasty edit before Ally says anything - of course this may not be an option on steep stuff!!)
Post edited at 13:28
2
In reply to hms:
I would agree as far as tactical repointing goes. However, if the goal is to work on falling, especially for onsights, then actually being able to commit to totally unlikely sequences that you have no idea will work is actually far harder (and therefore a far bigger prize) than being able to take a controlled jump with an armful of slack out. So i think it depends what the key goal is and/or the balance between them.
> Merely thrashing around taking fall after fall after fall with no discernible progress because you can't work out the way to do a hard/techy/weird sequence isn't actually helping with anything
I would agree as far as tactical repointing goes. However, if the goal is to work on falling, especially for onsights, then actually being able to commit to totally unlikely sequences that you have no idea will work is actually far harder (and therefore a far bigger prize) than being able to take a controlled jump with an armful of slack out. So i think it depends what the key goal is and/or the balance between them.
1
In reply to Dandan:
One of the best walls on Portland if the conditions are there. Realm of Chaos (7b+) and Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) are superb at slightly higher grades...
> Yeah troll team is definitely worth a visit, and The mask is not a lot harder if troll team goes well. Some guys were enjoying themselves on Ariane V (7b) just along the wall too, looked pretty good.
One of the best walls on Portland if the conditions are there. Realm of Chaos (7b+) and Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) are superb at slightly higher grades...
1
In reply to hms:
Thanks for the advice I will be super careful on trad, will more likely just do it by accident or using bolts but either way will do it as safely as possible.
Also, on sport it will be planned and controlled fall practice (as much as possible). I also like to grab a quickdraw or use a clip stick but fall practice isn't really to get up the rock, more just to help my head game.
It's more about my attitude to climbing than my ability to actually climb something that I am trying to work on (although my ability also needs help!). So just doing a few controlled things each week to help with my head. I will be as safe as possible. I'm not one for taking too many risks ;p
Thanks for the advice I will be super careful on trad, will more likely just do it by accident or using bolts but either way will do it as safely as possible.
Also, on sport it will be planned and controlled fall practice (as much as possible). I also like to grab a quickdraw or use a clip stick but fall practice isn't really to get up the rock, more just to help my head game.
It's more about my attitude to climbing than my ability to actually climb something that I am trying to work on (although my ability also needs help!). So just doing a few controlled things each week to help with my head. I will be as safe as possible. I'm not one for taking too many risks ;p
Post edited at 14:07
In reply to hms:
It's an interesting point that you guys have raised about differentiating between wanting to redpoint and work a climb as opposed to working on my commitment and head game. This is a good thing for me to keep in mind when I am climbing rather than always deferring to a default.
Thanks guys
> totally agree - that is why I qualified it with the 'no discernible progress' bit.
It's an interesting point that you guys have raised about differentiating between wanting to redpoint and work a climb as opposed to working on my commitment and head game. This is a good thing for me to keep in mind when I am climbing rather than always deferring to a default.
Thanks guys
In reply to guy127917:
TonyB: How do you structure a footless bouldering session?
I used made up problems of about 6 moves that are hard for me. I do three reps of each with 2.5 minutes between. In total I do 6 problems with 5 minutes between problems. I expect to get most of the problems, most of the time. The session is really tough, but the individual problems are hard but not excessively so.
It was an easy week for me, although I didn't rest as much as I should and got stuck into outdoor bouldering
Mon - rest
Tue - Fingerboard recruitment and hard bouldering inside
Wed - rest
Thur - Fingerboard re-test (matched old record, but no progress)
Fri - Evening session at Stanage, tried Hamper's Hang but couldn't tick it. I'm finding this really hard.
Sat - Early morning session at Raven Tor. This was a short session and not very effective.
Sun - Curbar. I wanted to try Early Doors again, but decided to do easier stuff instead. I did the Ultimate Gritstone Experience which was really good but took awhile and cost me a reasonable amount of skin.
My skin is pretty thin at the moment. I'm resting and regrowing skin for Font on Saturday. This week I will have 1 climbing session and one weights session.
TonyB: How do you structure a footless bouldering session?
I used made up problems of about 6 moves that are hard for me. I do three reps of each with 2.5 minutes between. In total I do 6 problems with 5 minutes between problems. I expect to get most of the problems, most of the time. The session is really tough, but the individual problems are hard but not excessively so.
It was an easy week for me, although I didn't rest as much as I should and got stuck into outdoor bouldering
Mon - rest
Tue - Fingerboard recruitment and hard bouldering inside
Wed - rest
Thur - Fingerboard re-test (matched old record, but no progress)
Fri - Evening session at Stanage, tried Hamper's Hang but couldn't tick it. I'm finding this really hard.
Sat - Early morning session at Raven Tor. This was a short session and not very effective.
Sun - Curbar. I wanted to try Early Doors again, but decided to do easier stuff instead. I did the Ultimate Gritstone Experience which was really good but took awhile and cost me a reasonable amount of skin.
My skin is pretty thin at the moment. I'm resting and regrowing skin for Font on Saturday. This week I will have 1 climbing session and one weights session.
In reply to AJM:
I recall you doing Saskatchewan last year and it's been on my list to search out since Didn't realise I was one route over from it when I did Troll Team, I should have checked it out.
> One of the best walls on Portland if the conditions are there. Realm of Chaos (7b+) and Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) are superb at slightly higher grades...
I recall you doing Saskatchewan last year and it's been on my list to search out since Didn't realise I was one route over from it when I did Troll Team, I should have checked it out.
In reply to hms:
I assumed that meant no progress on the sequence (and therefore progress on the route) rather than no progress with the head game - if the aim is fall practice i don't think progress on the route is actually necessary.
Jen - by way of background (Helen and I have had this discussion before) I am not a very good onsighter relative to my redpoint grade, but went through a particularly bad period several years back where i had worked 7b but couldn't competently onsight 6b. Too much time never working a hard move without the rope installed above me left me incapable of committing to moves on onsights. I am therefore very aware of the damage done to my head by working things with a clipstick, and therefore tend to avoid it when i can. I also therefore publicise my experiences as an example to others - not everyone will suffer the issue so badly but i figure it's worth highlighting...
> totally agree - that is why I qualified it with the 'no discernible progress' bit.
I assumed that meant no progress on the sequence (and therefore progress on the route) rather than no progress with the head game - if the aim is fall practice i don't think progress on the route is actually necessary.
Jen - by way of background (Helen and I have had this discussion before) I am not a very good onsighter relative to my redpoint grade, but went through a particularly bad period several years back where i had worked 7b but couldn't competently onsight 6b. Too much time never working a hard move without the rope installed above me left me incapable of committing to moves on onsights. I am therefore very aware of the damage done to my head by working things with a clipstick, and therefore tend to avoid it when i can. I also therefore publicise my experiences as an example to others - not everyone will suffer the issue so badly but i figure it's worth highlighting...
1
In reply to Dandan:
It's well worthwhile. Cool boulder sequence low down (shout if you need beta), then a bit resistancey to the break. Good rest, then total change of style with a techy fall-offable headwall.
It's well worthwhile. Cool boulder sequence low down (shout if you need beta), then a bit resistancey to the break. Good rest, then total change of style with a techy fall-offable headwall.
In reply to guy127917:
M-F - Had planned on at least one session but pre-holiday work got in the way as usual, still the rest might do me good.
S: First day in Kalymnos. Did a long 6b to warm up then OS a longish 7a, nice to get something in the bag. As it was day one banked my ticks and went home.
S: you need an early start here, I'm not good at early starts. Did some routes with Mrs and by time I got to my bit of the crag it was in full sun, got on a 6c+ which I was a bit too cocky on, knew I'd cocked up my sequence but instead of stepping down carried on as I was feeling strong, popped off, annoyed. Lowered down a 7b which wasn't skin friendly for full sun but thought I'd give it a go anyway. Got to the bottom to see a sign saying a bolt was missing, looking back I concurred so went back up the 6c+ instead to retrieve draws. Returned to the studio to tend my sunburn! So tow days of climbing has yielded one 6c+ RP and one 7a on-sight, not great!
> Tyler: Good luck, sounds like you are going to need it
Cheers Guy, I'm all out of cunning plans so you are right!M-F - Had planned on at least one session but pre-holiday work got in the way as usual, still the rest might do me good.
S: First day in Kalymnos. Did a long 6b to warm up then OS a longish 7a, nice to get something in the bag. As it was day one banked my ticks and went home.
S: you need an early start here, I'm not good at early starts. Did some routes with Mrs and by time I got to my bit of the crag it was in full sun, got on a 6c+ which I was a bit too cocky on, knew I'd cocked up my sequence but instead of stepping down carried on as I was feeling strong, popped off, annoyed. Lowered down a 7b which wasn't skin friendly for full sun but thought I'd give it a go anyway. Got to the bottom to see a sign saying a bolt was missing, looking back I concurred so went back up the 6c+ instead to retrieve draws. Returned to the studio to tend my sunburn! So tow days of climbing has yielded one 6c+ RP and one 7a on-sight, not great!
Post edited at 14:56
1
In reply to guy127917:
I have two fairly depressing weeks to catch up on.
On Thursday the week before last the weather finally sorted itself out and I went outside bouldering. Which was brilliant. I then went out again on Friday and one the last route of the evening fell and landed with my foot between the pads and twisted my ankle pretty badly.
My top tips for quick skiing the week after hurting your ankle.
1. Climb with paramedics so you can get well strapped and compressed immediately.
2. Ice 20 mins every two hours and compress for a few days after.
3. Wear an air brace (the hospital gave me one).
4. Take many painkillers and ice it before and after skiing.
So last week:
I had booked a ski trip months ago and felt that even with an ankle the size of my knee I couldn't not go.
M: Iced the ankle all day.
T: Cross country skiing
W: Cross country skiing
T: Cross country skiing
F: Downhill skiing (turns out a solid boot was a bad idea as the ankle couldn't fit)
S: Ice and painkillers
S: Ice and painkillers
Anyway the week was painful but great fun. I'm hoping to get out on some shorter boulders this week.
STG: Climb 3 7a+ boulders
MTG: Climb 3 7b boulders
LTG: Manage to run the half marathon with next to no training in under 1:50. (and for my ankle to recover)
I have two fairly depressing weeks to catch up on.
On Thursday the week before last the weather finally sorted itself out and I went outside bouldering. Which was brilliant. I then went out again on Friday and one the last route of the evening fell and landed with my foot between the pads and twisted my ankle pretty badly.
My top tips for quick skiing the week after hurting your ankle.
1. Climb with paramedics so you can get well strapped and compressed immediately.
2. Ice 20 mins every two hours and compress for a few days after.
3. Wear an air brace (the hospital gave me one).
4. Take many painkillers and ice it before and after skiing.
So last week:
I had booked a ski trip months ago and felt that even with an ankle the size of my knee I couldn't not go.
M: Iced the ankle all day.
T: Cross country skiing
W: Cross country skiing
T: Cross country skiing
F: Downhill skiing (turns out a solid boot was a bad idea as the ankle couldn't fit)
S: Ice and painkillers
S: Ice and painkillers
Anyway the week was painful but great fun. I'm hoping to get out on some shorter boulders this week.
STG: Climb 3 7a+ boulders
MTG: Climb 3 7b boulders
LTG: Manage to run the half marathon with next to no training in under 1:50. (and for my ankle to recover)
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy- No fingerboard this week- work was busy towards the end of the week, but bouldering at the Works was good and managed to get out on the grit on Saturday, to test my body and mind to some extent on some short routes-
M- Climbing Works bouldering- 21 problems- 10 pinkies, 7 Iron Bru, 4 yellow (2 new routes). Campus board on big rungs to kill off- 3 x ladders (alternate- 1 to 8, 8 to 1)
T- nowt, apart from 70 press ups
W- nowt, apart from 70 press up.
T- nowt, apart from 70 press up.
F- 2 mile run at lunch. Tennis after work.
S- Snatched 2 hours at Burbage North on my own- 7 routes soloed- VS x 4, HS x 2, f5a x 1. Lovely and it felt good, mentally and physically.
S- family day. 90 mins of tennis. Smallish cycle. 10 front levers (ouch) on the bathroom door surround whilst the kids brushed their teeth...!
Mission this week:
- Not let work take over my waking hours, so get more exercise in.
- Fingerboard, boulder at the Works, Frenchies and weights.
Goals:
- Consolidate at HVS
- Lead E1
Cheers Guy- No fingerboard this week- work was busy towards the end of the week, but bouldering at the Works was good and managed to get out on the grit on Saturday, to test my body and mind to some extent on some short routes-
M- Climbing Works bouldering- 21 problems- 10 pinkies, 7 Iron Bru, 4 yellow (2 new routes). Campus board on big rungs to kill off- 3 x ladders (alternate- 1 to 8, 8 to 1)
T- nowt, apart from 70 press ups
W- nowt, apart from 70 press up.
T- nowt, apart from 70 press up.
F- 2 mile run at lunch. Tennis after work.
S- Snatched 2 hours at Burbage North on my own- 7 routes soloed- VS x 4, HS x 2, f5a x 1. Lovely and it felt good, mentally and physically.
S- family day. 90 mins of tennis. Smallish cycle. 10 front levers (ouch) on the bathroom door surround whilst the kids brushed their teeth...!
Mission this week:
- Not let work take over my waking hours, so get more exercise in.
- Fingerboard, boulder at the Works, Frenchies and weights.
Goals:
- Consolidate at HVS
- Lead E1
In reply to guy127917:
Not such a great week for me this week. I lost all psyche- skipped rings/conditioning on Thursday and Sunday. Thursday was a low triggered by bad food choices, and on Sunday I got to the gym, did a full warmup and just couldn't face doing the workout. I didn't feel too bad so presume it is psychological rather than physical.
On the bright side, seeing as my programme is heavily oriented toward building finger strength I've started plotting my max hangs each session on a chart (see link below). This has been *super* motivating- I'd highly recommend this if you are following a similar programme.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GTsxKE6-Sa-GIrNiDAv-YMytR-Bdk9sc8ey...
In conclusion I have seen good gains in most grips so far- back 3 and the 15mm drag being the lagging ones at the moment. Back 3 is weird, I find it much harder than middle 2 even on a deeper hold! The 15mm drag is the last hang so I think the better the session has been, the worse that one goes.
After all that hanging there are also a bunch of one arm hangs, but my fingers are done well before I get to them. I'm going to ask Robin whether to maybe rotate the order around now or wait for a proper plateau first.
Monday: Max hangs,1 hour v3-5 bouldering, aerocap 6mins on/off x5
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: max moves 5 attempts on 5 v6-7 problems, AnCap hangboard session, aerocap 6mins on/off x5 (generally starting with a lead at about 6b+)
Thursday: 40 minute tempo run
Friday: Max hangs, AnCap 2:30 on/off x9
Saturday: 30 minute tempo run, slacklining
Sunday: Aborted gym workout.
This week aiming to continue trying hard on fingerboard, eat better than last week, and get to Portland for 3 days at the weekend with Jen
Not such a great week for me this week. I lost all psyche- skipped rings/conditioning on Thursday and Sunday. Thursday was a low triggered by bad food choices, and on Sunday I got to the gym, did a full warmup and just couldn't face doing the workout. I didn't feel too bad so presume it is psychological rather than physical.
On the bright side, seeing as my programme is heavily oriented toward building finger strength I've started plotting my max hangs each session on a chart (see link below). This has been *super* motivating- I'd highly recommend this if you are following a similar programme.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GTsxKE6-Sa-GIrNiDAv-YMytR-Bdk9sc8ey...
In conclusion I have seen good gains in most grips so far- back 3 and the 15mm drag being the lagging ones at the moment. Back 3 is weird, I find it much harder than middle 2 even on a deeper hold! The 15mm drag is the last hang so I think the better the session has been, the worse that one goes.
After all that hanging there are also a bunch of one arm hangs, but my fingers are done well before I get to them. I'm going to ask Robin whether to maybe rotate the order around now or wait for a proper plateau first.
Monday: Max hangs,1 hour v3-5 bouldering, aerocap 6mins on/off x5
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: max moves 5 attempts on 5 v6-7 problems, AnCap hangboard session, aerocap 6mins on/off x5 (generally starting with a lead at about 6b+)
Thursday: 40 minute tempo run
Friday: Max hangs, AnCap 2:30 on/off x9
Saturday: 30 minute tempo run, slacklining
Sunday: Aborted gym workout.
This week aiming to continue trying hard on fingerboard, eat better than last week, and get to Portland for 3 days at the weekend with Jen
2
In reply to guy127917:
Just lurking...
Back 3 strength on a Fingerboard is very dependent on how you angle your hand. If you point them inwards a bit to get more surface contact on your little finger rather than just the tip, and hold a proper half crimp rather than just open handing it, you'll probably find you can hold a lot more.
Your front 3 strength is pretty epic by the way.
Just lurking...
Back 3 strength on a Fingerboard is very dependent on how you angle your hand. If you point them inwards a bit to get more surface contact on your little finger rather than just the tip, and hold a proper half crimp rather than just open handing it, you'll probably find you can hold a lot more.
Your front 3 strength is pretty epic by the way.
In reply to Si dH:
Interesting maybe I will play about with that a bit next time. I've tried jamming to the far right and far left of the holds and it definitely felt different but not noticeably easier.
On front 3- presume you mean relative to 4 finger strength? (These are all two arm hangs) I've added a second table below in the s/s with bodyweight added.
Interesting maybe I will play about with that a bit next time. I've tried jamming to the far right and far left of the holds and it definitely felt different but not noticeably easier.
On front 3- presume you mean relative to 4 finger strength? (These are all two arm hangs) I've added a second table below in the s/s with bodyweight added.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
The drive up was not to bad it was the unplanned drive home on the Saturday afternoon (was going to leave Sunday originally) that killed me. I got out of my car at my house at 3am Sunday morning looked at my phone and it said 4am. I stood there for about 5 min trying to work out how I just lost an hour of my life then I realised the clocks had gone forward
Good week for me training wise. Currently concentrating more on my legs which have felt really strong all week.
I need to buy some more weights now though as I could of used more weight on my squats on my max strength this week but currently I only have 60kg.
M - Rest
T - AM - 13 mile bike ride. PM 10 mile bike ride
W - AM - Max strength - 60kg squats 4x5, 12kg pull ups 1x4, 30kg box steps 4x5, 49kg dead lifts 4x5. PM - 2x10 push ups, 2x45 sec plank, 2x45 sec side plank, 2x 10 strict sit ups
T - AM - 9.5km fasted run - struggled on this all my body wanted was breakfast
F - PM 10km run - felt much easier guess my body likes running later
S - AM 15 min Yoga. PM - Max strength as above but 13kg on pull up and 55kg on deadlift
S - 19 mile 1220 meter accent walk around my local hills
Happy training
Lee
Thanks Guy
The drive up was not to bad it was the unplanned drive home on the Saturday afternoon (was going to leave Sunday originally) that killed me. I got out of my car at my house at 3am Sunday morning looked at my phone and it said 4am. I stood there for about 5 min trying to work out how I just lost an hour of my life then I realised the clocks had gone forward
Good week for me training wise. Currently concentrating more on my legs which have felt really strong all week.
I need to buy some more weights now though as I could of used more weight on my squats on my max strength this week but currently I only have 60kg.
M - Rest
T - AM - 13 mile bike ride. PM 10 mile bike ride
W - AM - Max strength - 60kg squats 4x5, 12kg pull ups 1x4, 30kg box steps 4x5, 49kg dead lifts 4x5. PM - 2x10 push ups, 2x45 sec plank, 2x45 sec side plank, 2x 10 strict sit ups
T - AM - 9.5km fasted run - struggled on this all my body wanted was breakfast
F - PM 10km run - felt much easier guess my body likes running later
S - AM 15 min Yoga. PM - Max strength as above but 13kg on pull up and 55kg on deadlift
S - 19 mile 1220 meter accent walk around my local hills
Happy training
Lee
In reply to guy127917:
So you've progressed your middle 2 pocket from -5 to +25kg in 4 weeks?! That's pretty incredible!
That can't possibly be a pure strength increase in that short a time, which says to me there must be a large element of muscle recruitment development, perhaps also a bit of technique improvement, which is quite interesting.
It's amazing how fast your body can adapt to the stimulus that you give it - not only trying to develop extra muscle to improve your ability but also changing the way it harnesses existing muscle to help with the job, giving a much faster improvement than simply waiting for the muscle to grow.
I've only done 4 finger half crimp on the fingerboard for the last six months, which has obviously yielded some pretty awesome results but I imagine I would be considerably less impressive on different hold types, (maybe partially explains why I'm not dancing up 8b yet) so I'm pleased that I've been doing specific pocket sessions in the lead up to Margalef. Your results make me think that I might have been able to significantly increase recruitment for 2 finger pockets, I don't have a quantitative measure like your chart but I did tick a hard pocket boulder last night that I couldn't get close to 4 weeks ago and the improvement wasn't through beta.
You mention 15mm drag showing least improvement due to being at the end of the session, have you thought about going through the hold types in reverse order based on your chart, or based on % improvement in that hold type?
As long as you are fully warm before you start, begin with the holds that have shown the least improvement and leave your big guns until last, it might balance out the gains?
EDIT: how long are your hangs and rests?
So you've progressed your middle 2 pocket from -5 to +25kg in 4 weeks?! That's pretty incredible!
That can't possibly be a pure strength increase in that short a time, which says to me there must be a large element of muscle recruitment development, perhaps also a bit of technique improvement, which is quite interesting.
It's amazing how fast your body can adapt to the stimulus that you give it - not only trying to develop extra muscle to improve your ability but also changing the way it harnesses existing muscle to help with the job, giving a much faster improvement than simply waiting for the muscle to grow.
I've only done 4 finger half crimp on the fingerboard for the last six months, which has obviously yielded some pretty awesome results but I imagine I would be considerably less impressive on different hold types, (maybe partially explains why I'm not dancing up 8b yet) so I'm pleased that I've been doing specific pocket sessions in the lead up to Margalef. Your results make me think that I might have been able to significantly increase recruitment for 2 finger pockets, I don't have a quantitative measure like your chart but I did tick a hard pocket boulder last night that I couldn't get close to 4 weeks ago and the improvement wasn't through beta.
You mention 15mm drag showing least improvement due to being at the end of the session, have you thought about going through the hold types in reverse order based on your chart, or based on % improvement in that hold type?
As long as you are fully warm before you start, begin with the holds that have shown the least improvement and leave your big guns until last, it might balance out the gains?
EDIT: how long are your hangs and rests?
Post edited at 07:28
1
In reply to Dandan:
There are definitely large technique and recruitment gains in there. Its just a 10s hang then 1 minute rest. Supposed to be 3 reps per hold, but if I find the last hang easyish I'll carry on and add more weight, so often go 4-5 reps. I'm the last couple of workouts I've taken an extra minute or so rest between holds if necessary to recover a bit more. Robin said to treat it more like weight lifting than repeaters.
There are definitely large technique and recruitment gains in there. Its just a 10s hang then 1 minute rest. Supposed to be 3 reps per hold, but if I find the last hang easyish I'll carry on and add more weight, so often go 4-5 reps. I'm the last couple of workouts I've taken an extra minute or so rest between holds if necessary to recover a bit more. Robin said to treat it more like weight lifting than repeaters.
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. Onwards and upwards with the coaching. I really enjoy it.
A good week! It's been a while since I could say that.
Mon - BUK - trying V6's. Didn't get any but pulled hard on stuff. Two of them will go with bravery (heel hook last moves high up) and a couple of others with some work.
Tue - unexpected day off work. CyL for a boulder. Conditions not good (sunny,warm,humid,greasy) but even so I wasn't impressed with my performance. Managed some easy stuff but problems I flashed last year couldn't be repeated.
Wed - core/physio workout
Thur - same
Fri - boulder UKC side AWCC. Good session. Soft set but a very nice set. Did everything up to the V5's. Two of them I couldn't do out of the 12. Managed a couple of soft V6's.
Sat - rest
Sun - went to N Wales. Had an idea of doing Concrete Dream on Wen Zawn. Was wet, very wet. Bailed to Holyhead mountain for some single pitch. Did OK as I had 1 day of trad in 2016 and one day in 2015 so not exactly a lot done of late. A couple of steep HVS's and an E1 techy wall/slab/crack climb. All went very well.
Had a days sport yesterday but i'll report on that next week. Hoping to head down to get Concrete Dream done this Friday partner/weather permitting.
My trad head seemed fine but my sport head deffo wasn't. Didn't really push myself on trad so didn't expect to fall, so didn't get scared I guess. Pleased I was able to hang around for placing gear without getting tired. I presumed as I've been doing very little/no aerobic work that would have gone.
Cheers Guy. Onwards and upwards with the coaching. I really enjoy it.
A good week! It's been a while since I could say that.
Mon - BUK - trying V6's. Didn't get any but pulled hard on stuff. Two of them will go with bravery (heel hook last moves high up) and a couple of others with some work.
Tue - unexpected day off work. CyL for a boulder. Conditions not good (sunny,warm,humid,greasy) but even so I wasn't impressed with my performance. Managed some easy stuff but problems I flashed last year couldn't be repeated.
Wed - core/physio workout
Thur - same
Fri - boulder UKC side AWCC. Good session. Soft set but a very nice set. Did everything up to the V5's. Two of them I couldn't do out of the 12. Managed a couple of soft V6's.
Sat - rest
Sun - went to N Wales. Had an idea of doing Concrete Dream on Wen Zawn. Was wet, very wet. Bailed to Holyhead mountain for some single pitch. Did OK as I had 1 day of trad in 2016 and one day in 2015 so not exactly a lot done of late. A couple of steep HVS's and an E1 techy wall/slab/crack climb. All went very well.
Had a days sport yesterday but i'll report on that next week. Hoping to head down to get Concrete Dream done this Friday partner/weather permitting.
My trad head seemed fine but my sport head deffo wasn't. Didn't really push myself on trad so didn't expect to fall, so didn't get scared I guess. Pleased I was able to hang around for placing gear without getting tired. I presumed as I've been doing very little/no aerobic work that would have gone.
Post edited at 12:37
In reply to guy127917:
Some pretty epic finger strength there for the grades your climbing.
I found some old data the other day and just before going to RRG in 2014 I was hanging BW on the back/middle/front-2 combos, and +5kg on 3-finger combinations.
This translated to 8a 2nd go, 7c on-sight and 8a+ RP's in a 2-week trip, so maybe fingers isn't the weakest link in your climbing...?
Some pretty epic finger strength there for the grades your climbing.
I found some old data the other day and just before going to RRG in 2014 I was hanging BW on the back/middle/front-2 combos, and +5kg on 3-finger combinations.
This translated to 8a 2nd go, 7c on-sight and 8a+ RP's in a 2-week trip, so maybe fingers isn't the weakest link in your climbing...?
In reply to guy127917:
It's only because I'm too cheap to buy proper weights...
Got right to the top of another 6c onsight this week before falling on the final moves. A developing theme! But happy with the effort.
M - Tremadog with young puppy for his first trad day out. Just raced up a couple of very easy routes so he wasn’t on his own for long, so he starts getting used to things.
T - Lunch: 4 x 10 Feet raised push ups
Evening: 30 min yoga stretching
W - Lunch: 4 x 60 second Star Plank
Evening: Wall: bouldering. Just trying some harder stuff, not feeling the enthusiasm for bouldering this week.
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: 3 x 3s - 3 min rests. 30kg. The limit of what I can fit in the bag, will do it for a few weeks, then switch things up.
• Sandbag Rotational Lunge • Sandbag Power Clean • Sandbag Military Press
Steve Maisch Max Hang Fingerboard. Wk 2 - 4 sets. Front 3 Open 25mm - 74kg (+2) Feels like a good level
F - Rest
S - Wall. Route session. Up to 6b+ O/S. Then tried a 6c+. Fell off about 3/4 of the way up on the O/S attempt. Tried again from the floor and fell at the same point, so had a quick play on that section to get it wired. So will try again next time.
S - LPT. A couple of easier routes to warm up, then O/S attempt of Under the Boardwalk 6c. Fell off the mantle moves right at the top, so another really close one. Incoming tide caused a flee, so didn’t try again.
> Spengler: I didn’t realise until this week that your sandbag workouts literally use bags of sand. (Assumed sandbag in the climbing sense)
It's only because I'm too cheap to buy proper weights...
Got right to the top of another 6c onsight this week before falling on the final moves. A developing theme! But happy with the effort.
M - Tremadog with young puppy for his first trad day out. Just raced up a couple of very easy routes so he wasn’t on his own for long, so he starts getting used to things.
T - Lunch: 4 x 10 Feet raised push ups
Evening: 30 min yoga stretching
W - Lunch: 4 x 60 second Star Plank
Evening: Wall: bouldering. Just trying some harder stuff, not feeling the enthusiasm for bouldering this week.
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: 3 x 3s - 3 min rests. 30kg. The limit of what I can fit in the bag, will do it for a few weeks, then switch things up.
• Sandbag Rotational Lunge • Sandbag Power Clean • Sandbag Military Press
Steve Maisch Max Hang Fingerboard. Wk 2 - 4 sets. Front 3 Open 25mm - 74kg (+2) Feels like a good level
F - Rest
S - Wall. Route session. Up to 6b+ O/S. Then tried a 6c+. Fell off about 3/4 of the way up on the O/S attempt. Tried again from the floor and fell at the same point, so had a quick play on that section to get it wired. So will try again next time.
S - LPT. A couple of easier routes to warm up, then O/S attempt of Under the Boardwalk 6c. Fell off the mantle moves right at the top, so another really close one. Incoming tide caused a flee, so didn’t try again.
In reply to Ally Smith:
That is interesting and removes at least one excuse from my arsenal. I definitely do have big gains to make in technique/giving routes 100% and generally getting outside and trying harder routes (I've never been on anything harder than 7a+, and out of 4 7a ticks I flashed one 7a and got 2 2nd attempt, so it's not really my limit grade). However the push for finger strength is pretty much solely based on Robins advice after the lattice test where the one arm hang on 18mm radius where I need 16kg of assistance, put me below average for 7a climbers. He did say that the sample set is somewhat skewed by selection bias of who does the lattice test.
That is interesting and removes at least one excuse from my arsenal. I definitely do have big gains to make in technique/giving routes 100% and generally getting outside and trying harder routes (I've never been on anything harder than 7a+, and out of 4 7a ticks I flashed one 7a and got 2 2nd attempt, so it's not really my limit grade). However the push for finger strength is pretty much solely based on Robins advice after the lattice test where the one arm hang on 18mm radius where I need 16kg of assistance, put me below average for 7a climbers. He did say that the sample set is somewhat skewed by selection bias of who does the lattice test.
In reply to guy127917:
Huh?! This just doesn't seem right!
Huh?! This just doesn't seem right!
In reply to guy127917:
It sounds like your very successful 4 weeks of fingerboarding would probably mean you would get a significantly higher score if you were to do the lattice test now! The strength was there but your body didn't know how to recruit it perhaps?
It sounds like your very successful 4 weeks of fingerboarding would probably mean you would get a significantly higher score if you were to do the lattice test now! The strength was there but your body didn't know how to recruit it perhaps?
1
In reply to guy127917:
Is 15mm the little bm2k rails? If so you look as strong as me on 35s and rails and blow me out of the water on middle 2. From what i can gather I'm doing ok on finger strength for my grades so I'm really surprised that's the diagnosis from your assessment.
If your one arm strength is the weak point that may be shoulders not fingers. Was the assessor aware of the other fingerboard stats? I wonder if that would have changed the diagnosis.
I can't remember your bodyweight from the spreadsheet but if you're pulling 108kg mid-2 that's 54kg per arm on 2 fingers alone. Is your assisted one arm on a 2 finger pocket any different from your edge assisted 1-arm?!
Edit: checked back. Ok so it's not quite the same as you're heavier than me but your 2-finger assisted one arm should be only 10kg shy of your edge one-arm score - whilst i haven't tried this myself that feels bonkers!
Is 15mm the little bm2k rails? If so you look as strong as me on 35s and rails and blow me out of the water on middle 2. From what i can gather I'm doing ok on finger strength for my grades so I'm really surprised that's the diagnosis from your assessment.
If your one arm strength is the weak point that may be shoulders not fingers. Was the assessor aware of the other fingerboard stats? I wonder if that would have changed the diagnosis.
I can't remember your bodyweight from the spreadsheet but if you're pulling 108kg mid-2 that's 54kg per arm on 2 fingers alone. Is your assisted one arm on a 2 finger pocket any different from your edge assisted 1-arm?!
Edit: checked back. Ok so it's not quite the same as you're heavier than me but your 2-finger assisted one arm should be only 10kg shy of your edge one-arm score - whilst i haven't tried this myself that feels bonkers!
Post edited at 13:08
3
In reply to AJM:
Yep 15mm is the small rails on the BM2000, the 33mm hold are the pockets on the outside middle, and the 2 finger pockets we use are the offset ones. 35 degree hold strength is hard to compare I think, it depends a lot on the board- I can barely hang at all (BW) on squeaky clean 35's on my BM1000 at home.
Unsuprisingly I haven't tried a one arm 2 finger hang, but I have definitely been asking myself questions about whether there is a weakness in one arm hangs specifically. However when doing the maths, on the 33mm hold my max with BW is 128kg, is 64kg per arm, which is BW-19kg, so if anything, I'm underperforming on two arms compared to one arm (which was on 18mm not 33m)? Similarly on the 15mm, lets say unfatigued max is 100kg, that would mean BW-33kg to get a BW hang (which I suspect is more than would actually be required).
Yep 15mm is the small rails on the BM2000, the 33mm hold are the pockets on the outside middle, and the 2 finger pockets we use are the offset ones. 35 degree hold strength is hard to compare I think, it depends a lot on the board- I can barely hang at all (BW) on squeaky clean 35's on my BM1000 at home.
Unsuprisingly I haven't tried a one arm 2 finger hang, but I have definitely been asking myself questions about whether there is a weakness in one arm hangs specifically. However when doing the maths, on the 33mm hold my max with BW is 128kg, is 64kg per arm, which is BW-19kg, so if anything, I'm underperforming on two arms compared to one arm (which was on 18mm not 33m)? Similarly on the 15mm, lets say unfatigued max is 100kg, that would mean BW-33kg to get a BW hang (which I suspect is more than would actually be required).
1
In reply to guy127917:
A late update this week, however a good overall active week gone by. Stats as follows;
Mon- 1km swim
Tues- 1km swim, 31km cycle
Weds- 1km swim, 22km cycle
Thurs- 1km swim
Fri- 1km swim, 42km cycle
Sat-rest
Sun- 12.2km run, lovely sunny morning to be out
A late update this week, however a good overall active week gone by. Stats as follows;
Mon- 1km swim
Tues- 1km swim, 31km cycle
Weds- 1km swim, 22km cycle
Thurs- 1km swim
Fri- 1km swim, 42km cycle
Sat-rest
Sun- 12.2km run, lovely sunny morning to be out
In reply to guy127917:
Looking at my lattice report again-
For a 7a climber the strength expectations from the box plot are bottom AND 3rd quartile (presumably means the sample set is small?!) 82.5%, 2nd quartile 84.5%, top quartile 89.5% BW. Mine was 80% (so off the bottom)
Then for v5, the range is much larger- 69% bottom quartile, 75.5% 3rd quartile, 81% 2nd quartile, 89% top quartile.
I'll share the report if you drop me your email if you want to see.
Looking at my lattice report again-
For a 7a climber the strength expectations from the box plot are bottom AND 3rd quartile (presumably means the sample set is small?!) 82.5%, 2nd quartile 84.5%, top quartile 89.5% BW. Mine was 80% (so off the bottom)
Then for v5, the range is much larger- 69% bottom quartile, 75.5% 3rd quartile, 81% 2nd quartile, 89% top quartile.
I'll share the report if you drop me your email if you want to see.
In reply to guy127917:
Doesn't it say your one arm pull strength is basically independent of hold size? We're the hangs very different lengths or something too?
I would assume some sort of fuzziness/error bound due to day to day variation and say your pull strength is ~64kg on both one arm and two despite very different hold sizes...
Doesn't it say your one arm pull strength is basically independent of hold size? We're the hangs very different lengths or something too?
I would assume some sort of fuzziness/error bound due to day to day variation and say your pull strength is ~64kg on both one arm and two despite very different hold sizes...
In reply to AJM:
Actually you are right on duration- lattice is 5s isn't it, was thinking it was 10s like these, so my calcs above are irrelevant.
Actually you are right on duration- lattice is 5s isn't it, was thinking it was 10s like these, so my calcs above are irrelevant.
In reply to guy127917:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 10lbs
M - Prepping lawn
T - Prepping lawn
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Laying lawn
S - Rest
Completely a DIY club week. Last weekend I did a bit of gardening and tidied up the area where the lawn should be. It was a bit of a wasteland. Broke it up, weeded it, raked it up. Then repeated that on Monday and Tuesday. Then on Saturday got a ballast bag of purple slate (to replenish/finish the job in some areas of the garden) and a ballast bag of turf. Moved the turf up the garden (it's heavier than I thought) then with the help of my father in law spent most of Saturday laying the lawn. Not too expensive and I'm glad it's done. The garden is pretty much finished now. Looks very nice. Was stuffed on Sunday tho. Might do some climbing next week. But will be enjoying the garden for sure!
Hope to get out and do some climbing next week. The weather is nice at the moment.
Yes, I'd like to loose some weight, but motivation is totally lacking at the moment.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 10lbs
M - Prepping lawn
T - Prepping lawn
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Laying lawn
S - Rest
Completely a DIY club week. Last weekend I did a bit of gardening and tidied up the area where the lawn should be. It was a bit of a wasteland. Broke it up, weeded it, raked it up. Then repeated that on Monday and Tuesday. Then on Saturday got a ballast bag of purple slate (to replenish/finish the job in some areas of the garden) and a ballast bag of turf. Moved the turf up the garden (it's heavier than I thought) then with the help of my father in law spent most of Saturday laying the lawn. Not too expensive and I'm glad it's done. The garden is pretty much finished now. Looks very nice. Was stuffed on Sunday tho. Might do some climbing next week. But will be enjoying the garden for sure!
Hope to get out and do some climbing next week. The weather is nice at the moment.
Yes, I'd like to loose some weight, but motivation is totally lacking at the moment.
Post edited at 20:04
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Good mileage this week and it was nice to tick another Top 50 grit route, especially since I normally avoid grit HVS as it's harder than E1! Training plan and goals still coming - I've been proofing the new Lofoten Guide (need to book a trip now - it looks so amazing!) and trying to sort some stuff out for WCS17 so was just glad to get my sessions in!
M: Fingerboard
T: 1 on 2 off / conditioning
W: rest
T: CapPow Brookes on 6b+ - a bit too easy so maybe 6c next time
F: forced boulder mileage Climbing Unit
S: 10 routes average 6c+ at Wirksworth
S: Grit routes at Plantation until the midges forced a retreat. Highlight was finally getting on Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a)
Random question: Anyone using either the Sportiva Genius or Scarpa Chimera and have any views on how much the stretch? Need a better heel and toe for bouldering...
Thanks Guy. Good mileage this week and it was nice to tick another Top 50 grit route, especially since I normally avoid grit HVS as it's harder than E1! Training plan and goals still coming - I've been proofing the new Lofoten Guide (need to book a trip now - it looks so amazing!) and trying to sort some stuff out for WCS17 so was just glad to get my sessions in!
M: Fingerboard
T: 1 on 2 off / conditioning
W: rest
T: CapPow Brookes on 6b+ - a bit too easy so maybe 6c next time
F: forced boulder mileage Climbing Unit
S: 10 routes average 6c+ at Wirksworth
S: Grit routes at Plantation until the midges forced a retreat. Highlight was finally getting on Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a)
Random question: Anyone using either the Sportiva Genius or Scarpa Chimera and have any views on how much the stretch? Need a better heel and toe for bouldering...
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. A late post to report a lack of action, extension, birthdays (mine & big's), school craft projects and scouting have all meant I've not done anything more than the physio exercises. This has continued into this week. I may take a break as I don't have time to focus properly on this at the moment and can do with one less thing in my life. Or on the other hand does that mean that it's even more important to try and maintain some level of activity...not sure. Will see how things go over the next week. If I do drop out for a while then a) thanks for the support so far and b) it will only be temporary!
Thanks Guy. A late post to report a lack of action, extension, birthdays (mine & big's), school craft projects and scouting have all meant I've not done anything more than the physio exercises. This has continued into this week. I may take a break as I don't have time to focus properly on this at the moment and can do with one less thing in my life. Or on the other hand does that mean that it's even more important to try and maintain some level of activity...not sure. Will see how things go over the next week. If I do drop out for a while then a) thanks for the support so far and b) it will only be temporary!
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