UKC

NEWS: New Base Line, ~8B+, and Steppenwolf, ~8B, by Anna Stöhr

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 UKC News 03 Apr 2017
Anna Stöhr on New base line, ~8B+, Magic wood, Switzerland, 5 kbJust one week before the 2017 World Cup premiere at Meiringen, Anna Stöhr gave herself the best possible confident boost by repeating New Base Line, ~8B+, and Steppenwolf, ~8B, on the same day at Magic wood, Switzerland.

sometimes you can surprise yourself.... today i climbed... Read more
 AlanLittle 03 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Is Anna back on the full world cup circuit again this year then?

And are all Swiss boulder grades from now on to be published with an ironic "approximately"?
UKC Testing2 03 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Nice one Anna. Good luck in the World Cup!
 Durbs 03 Apr 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

I was wondering that too - a lot of "~" signs which imply the grade isn't set. Which for "New Base Line" it most definitely is?
In reply to Durbs:

We've been using the "~"-sign for years. This is to indicate the grade is a span rather than a dot on the grading scale and does not in any way imply the grade is not set.
 JLS 03 Apr 2017
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

>"This is to indicate the grade is a span rather than a dot on the grading scale and does not in any way imply the grade is not set."

Eh? Seriously? You think you need to tell people that not all 8B's are exactly the same difficulty? I'd have thought anyone interested in reading about the latest wad send would have picked up how grades work by now.
 AlanLittle 03 Apr 2017
In reply to JLS:

+1

This just seems pointless and distracting to me. Everybody with any interest at all in this stuff already knows that

(a) the easiest 8B+ is 0.999 grades easier than the hardest 8B+
(b) the easiest 8B+ is more likely to be in Switzerland than in, say, Font or Northumberland

But seriously – it’s widely known that Switzerland had a reputation in the past for boulder grade inflation, and in that context the use of “approximately” makes it look like you’re casting doubt in Anna’s achievement. Which I’m sure you did not intend.
 8dreams 03 Apr 2017
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

It's just a bit strange given that the article is just next to this one:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71017/two_new_font_8cs_for_mike_adams

, and there the "~" sign is nowhere to be found I wonder IF it is appropriate in any of those two news, which one should it be
 stp 03 Apr 2017
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

> This is to indicate the grade is a span rather than a dot on the grading scale and does not in any way imply the grade is not set.

I don't get this. All grades span a range of difficulty and every route is a dot on that span. So the ~ seems superfluous in all cases? In the article the grades apply to specific problems, which should be dots anyway, so surely the ~ is misused? I'm confused.

 stp 03 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic effort by Anna and hope she does well at the weekend.

The line up for the women is really interesting with Megan Mascarenas and Margo Hayes, Janja Garnbret, Shauna back from injury, Akiyo and Miho, Petra Klingler and an on form Anna Stöhr.
 JLS 04 Apr 2017
In reply to stp:

With only six going through, some very good boulderers are not going to make the final.
Looking forward to it.
 alx 04 Apr 2017
In reply to stp:

To be candid Anna may have climbed to a high level outside recently it may not translate. Anna has looked way too sketchy/hasty in her efforts the last two seasons. I'm hoping this is due to her getting over the finger injury then trying to cram in a season she was ill prepared for in 2015/2016. She should have had a full training and prep cycle this time round.

Also I thought she trained with Jule Wurm and Killian whom have not both retired.

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