UKC

Ok I have some questions about my profile and also what some types of climbing actually are...

First: what is best onsights? And what are worked grades? Im assuming the latter is like grade of climb Im working on.

When it comes to specific types of climbing what is Sport climbing, what is Aid climbing and what is "Via Ferrata"? Never heard of that one before.

Thanks

Ben

In reply to Stuck On a Wall:

An onsight is when you climb a route first go without falling or being given any beta.

A worked route is one you've fallen off but have another go at and climb successfully.

Sport climbing is climbing outdoors using bolts for protection.

Aid climbing is placing trad gear then using it as a hold (put crudely).

Via Ferratta is something for tourists.

In reply to Stuck On a Wall:
Take a look at https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=33

Basically an "onsight" climb is one you've walked up to without any prior knowledge and climbed to the top with no falls or resting on the rope.

Worked grade is the best grade climb you have got up (without falls or rests on the ascent) after having practised the route as much as you need first.

Sport climbing doesn't really have anything to do with competitive sport, it just means climbing routes that have bolts fixed to the rock for protection instead of using "traditional" (trad) gear that you place yourself during the ascent.

"Aid" climbing is largely for Americans and other foreigners who like to cheat by pulling themselves up on their placed gear, rather than just climbing the rock

Via Ferrata is more like scrambling but using preplaced permanent safety ropes, wires and ladders.

In reply to Stuck On a Wall:

Good article on Via Ferrata here UKC Articles - The Dolomites - Via Ferrata
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6918

Comes from the Italian for Iron Way and were used originally to get troops around the Dolomites during WW1.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:


Maybe you should define what you mean by "trad gear" and "beta"?

Via Ferratta is fun, loads of exposure ( ie a big drop lots of space under your feet) but relatively safe due to fixed cables and metal foot/hand holds banged into the rock. Becoming increasingly popular on the Continent, not much of it in the UK.

In reply to Stuck On a Wall:

Thanks all

In reply to Trangia:

Yes I probably should.

Trad gear is a term for a set of bits of equipment that can be used to protect (hold the rope to the wall like bolts at an indoor wall). All trad gear works by jamming in cracks and pockets in the rock. The amount of viable cracks and pockets on a route determines whether the route is safe or bold (dangerous).

Beta is advice that helps you climb a certain route for example "there's a jug hidden on the lip of the overhang". Watching someone climb a route is also beta.

Just so you know my comment about via ferrata was tongue in cheek.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:



I know