UKC

I am looking for a viable alternative to my annual Pembroke trip. It can take up to 10 hrs to travel from home (Cumbria) to Pembrokeshire. So the question has been raised, where else could we get to, door to door in 10 hours that would give quality climbing, reliable weather at an acceptable temperature in August.
I am looking to avoid 10 hrs of driving by flying from a northern airport, including check in time in the travel time.
Over to you.

In reply to 3leggeddog:

Pah easy... Frankenjura/Fichtelgebirge combination. Endless pocketed single pitch limestone in the forest. Then a bit of granite crack climbing to break up the monotony. Beer and bbqs in between

Fly Manc to Nuremberg with Ryanair for not very much money. Hire a car and camp at Kreuzhang.

Fairly northern and in the trees so it'll be good temps for climbing.

In reply to TheGeneralist:

Well if you´ re lucky. Even I don´ t usually go climbing in the Franken in August and it´ s my local area. The humidity is normally appalling.

In reply to jimtitt:

Humidity is something you have to learn to live with. Try the Deep South of America in the summer to appreciate humidity! Then try the Tropics!

In reply to John Stainforth:

Why do you think I haven´ t been to humid places?

In reply to 3leggeddog:

Cheers, so it looks like the jury is out over Frankel jurassic then.

Any other suggestions?

My mate is a ginger so would turn to dust on the Costa blanca.

In reply to 3leggeddog:
Ceuse or somewhere in the picos would be my first idea. Dolomites or the Alps would be my second.

In reply to 3leggeddog:

We are off to Gorge Du Tarn in August which has been recommended by several friends as a good summer venue, we got flights from a local airport (Southampton) and then a 2-3 hour drive the other side so well within your 10 hour travel window, or you can Ferry and drive but that will weigh in at considerably longer, especially if you are in the North of England.
I don't know what grade you climb but it's a little thin on the ground in the lower grades, with much more interest in the 7's and above, so that might be a deal breaker.

In reply to 3leggeddog:

How about Sweden? Fair bit of trad and sport over there and I´ d guess flights from the north.
Picos de Europa as someone else mentioned, I was there in August 2 years ago and the climate was ideal but whether you can fly direct to Santander who knows?

In reply to 3leggeddog:

Newcastle to Sofia and check out Bulgaria! We are developing crags in the middle near Veliko Tarnovo which you can google. The caves "eyes of God" are out of this world.

Food is great and cheap as almost free accommodation the same.

Facebook page here and feel free to contact us for any other info. Yes its hot but low humidity which has made us start an Orange House over here for a change from the Costa Blanca.

Sam Orange

https://www.facebook.com/rockclimbbg/?fref=ts
website is http://rockclimbingbulgaria.com/ but in the very early stages!

In reply to Sam Mayfield:
Cheers Sam that looks attractive.

Have you experienced a summer climbing season there? Avg temp of 31 looks a bit warm. Worth considering for spring and autumn though, or indeed an ice trip.

In reply to 3leggeddog:

I find climbing here in Ariège to be fine in August but I know a lot of people might think it a bit warm for comfort. It's certainly a whole lot cooler than most of the popular Spanish crags, but definitely warmer than Pembroke! For the best choice of shady conditions you really need to be climbing in the low 7s, otherwise you'll have a lot less choice of all-day venues and you might be looking at climbing only early or late in the day. But for grade 7s I think there's loads to go at.

In reply to 3leggeddog:

depending how far afield you want to go, Waterval Boven in South Africa.

In reply to 3leggeddog:

Hi, If you fancy excellent sport climbing in Norway in August then I am sailing on our expedition yacht from Stavanger going to different sport climbing sea / coastal cliffs for a week from 5-11 Aug. Still have 2 places on our boat and I am a climber too. Easy flight to Stavanger return and we will be in the Stavanger Marina so speedy access.
Can provide more info if you are interested.
Cheers
Andy

In reply to Andy J Collins:

If they ain't interested, I defo am. That sounds ace. I'll email you.

In reply to 3leggeddog:

yes we climbed all last summer, the crags are mostly in the shade and even have rivers running in the bottom so it never felt too hot!

Also hot but low humidity which is what kills the Costa Blanca I think more than just the heat!

Sam Orange

In reply to Dandan:

If you could find a more backhanded way of telling people you climb harder than them that would be great.

OP: I can't think of anywhere better than Pembroke at that time of year, within 10 hours of travelling.

In reply to allarms:

Er, wow.

In reply to 3leggeddog:

Ceuse. Side trips to Orpierre easy on days that you don't fancy the slog up the hill.

In reply to allarms:


What an odd comment! Dandan82 clearly said 'I don't know what grade you climb' and he was clearly trying to offer helpful ideas for a venue. Quite rightly he qualified it by suggesting the OP might only enjoy it if climbing in the 7s. What's wrong with that?

In reply to 3leggeddog:

Back to something a little cooler: sanetsch in switzerland. Both single and multipitch across the grade range.

In reply to 1234None:


Or when you fancy a 7a rather than an e5

In reply to 3leggeddog:

Briancon area is a great summer venue. Massive choice of single and multi pitch in sun or shade

Guide here https://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=6592

In reply to Dandan:

Gorge Du Tarn is a great location but be prepared for some hot weather! It hit 40 for us in August last year.Probably not worth it for a full climbing only trip for the lower grades but Still some great climbing even in the 5b/6a range . Plus there's always the Tarn to cool off in.