UKC

Grade issue

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 Davidwi 06 Apr 2017
30-foot Wall (Direct start) (HVS 6a)

Just climbed (indirect variant), my lancashire rock (2016) has this graded E1 5b. Whereas the UKC logbook has it as HVS.

I climbed it today hoping for my first E1 best onsight prior to this is VS. Can someone clarify this for me as I'm feeling a little deflated. Also considering I couldn't get any gear in anywhere it was effectively a bloomin solo!
 Trangia 06 Apr 2017
In reply to Davidwi:


> Can someone clarify this for me as I'm feeling a little deflated.


Ditch the guide book and stick to the UKC Logbook.
In reply to Davidwi:

You'll find that there are many grade discrepancies between Rockfax grades and definitive guide book grades.
OP Davidwi 06 Apr 2017
In reply to Trangia:

I'd rather have the guidebook grade haha. It'll be the guidebook grade when I tell the war story!
 DaveHK 06 Apr 2017
In reply to Davidwi:

> I'd rather have the guidebook grade haha. It'll be the guidebook grade when I tell the war story!

Quite right. The guide book grade is definitive.
In reply to DaveHK:

.....although he may want to take the UKC "6a" bit of the grading rather than the definitive 5b !!

Log it and then vote for what grade you think it should be!
 Kevster 06 Apr 2017
In reply to Davidwi:

Right,
I have taken the view that the grade is what I believed it to be when on ascent. The rest is conjecture.

If you believed it to be E1, it was E1.

You tied on, you climbed, you failed to whimp out in the face of difficulty. Take the E1.

If in you're heart you feel it wasn't E1, then you know the answer. Climb another!
OP Davidwi 07 Apr 2017
In reply to Kevster:
For me the climb wasn't a technical masterpiece but the fact that there was nothing to get any gear in, so the seriousness of it meant a 10m+ deckout. I'm saying E1 for me.
I certainly felt that overwhelming sense of doom when making the last couple of moves!

 JR 07 Apr 2017
In reply to Davidwi:

> For me the climb wasn't a technical masterpiece but the fact that there was nothing to get any gear in, so the seriousness of it meant a 10m+ deckout. I'm saying E1 for me.I certainly felt that overwhelming sense of doom when making the last couple of moves!

Welcome to Lancashire!
In reply to Christheclimber:

> You'll find that there are many grade discrepancies between Rockfax grades and definitive guide book grades.

This climb isn't in the Rockfax guide.


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