UKC

I had a look at Fading Star (E2 6a) yesterday, being graded at E2 6a I thought the gear would be reasonable. I got a micro cam in just after the first move (direct start) however the next runner is either just before the last move or on the route to the left at mid height if you lean across and traverse off route to place it (after an unprotected 5c sequence). Has anyone done this route and can they point out any gear I might have missed please? It just seems very bold and technical for the grade.

Thanks

In reply to Tigger:
I've done it but I dont think I did the bold slab at the bottom (think I traversed in from Phleogotha or Saliva) so not much help.
I should go back and try to do it properly

Although 5c moves at a highball height aren't unheard of on gritstone E2/E3 territory.

In reply to Tigger:

Your problem isn't with fading star (the hard well protected move high up), it's with that bloody awful start which is graded e1. As deacon says, bad landing highballing is often graded like that on grit.

In reply to Tigger:
Good points I just felt that with the direct start, big move from the nose onto the side pull before smearing up and fiddling in a small runner then another big move right combined with sustained technical sequence to the top break a low to mid E3 grade would give a representation of what to expect. Thanks for the replies.

* in response to my first post, it doesn't feel technical for the grade just bold.

In reply to Tigger:

Even with the Phlegathoa start it's still more like E3.

it doesn't feel technical for the grade just bold.
It'll soon start feeling technical when you get higher up the next bit is pretty tough.

Bare in mind that this route is a bit of a 'filler in' and I'd be surprised if it gets 5 ascents a year. The grades on these types of routes are quite often a grade out.

E3 6b in the old Eastern Grit.

In reply to Tigger:
Either way it's a brilliant sequence and well worth doing, I decided to give the lead a miss in the end (after swinging onto my fist cam and feeling my toes brush the floor) but had a quick play on TR, the top move is a real stopper I ended up having to dyno for a crimp (couldn't stick the dyno for break as it was coated in loose grit) I'll see about finishing the route off next weekend though.