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Best book for sport climbs in the South West of England

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 dbdkmezz 19 Apr 2017
I'm looking to pick up a book for some short sport climbing trips down to the South West. I'll be travelling down North London, so not looking for going anywhere too deep like Cornwall. The obvious two seem to be the Climbers Club South West Climbs Vol 1 (2012), and the Rockfax West Country Climbs (2010), but I've found surprisingly little comparing the two. Which do people prefer? Is either better any better suited for sport routes?

I'm drawn to those books because they both seem to offer a good variety of area to choose from within easy (ish) drive of London. But if actually all the best sport routes are in Portland the perhaps I should just forget about Avon / The Wye Valley etc. for now and instead go for something focused on Portland or Dorset?

Also, am I wrong to focus solely on the South West? I'm interested in any quality sport climbing I can get to easily from London, and from what I've read so far the Peaks seems to be more about trad, and South Wales seems a little far (although I note there is a Rockfax South Wales Sports Climbs book). But I'm happy to discover otherwise...

Thanks in advance
 The Ivanator 20 Apr 2017
In reply to dbdkmezz:

Neither of the selective guides you mention does a very good job of covering Portland which is definitely the best destination for Sport (certainly in the SW, probably the UK ...unless you are looking for F8s). If only buying one book Dorset Rockfax is the best option, pretty comprehensive Portland coverage plus the Swanage quarries.
There is an independently published Wye Valley Sport Guide imminent (due in June) keep an eye on https://m.facebook.com/greatwesternrock/ for updates on that one. Martin Crocker's "Cheddar Gorge Climbs" is another good source of Sport routes.
Some good South Wales crags (in the Rockfax) are not too far over the border, Gilwern or Tirpentwys are not much more time consuming to reach than Wye crags for example.
OP dbdkmezz 30 Apr 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

Thanks, really good to know neither of those selective books cover Portland well, I'll definitely pick up the Dorset Rockfax. Glad to hear those crags in the East of South Wales are worth a visit, I was eyeing then up myself.

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