UKC

Tired of trawling through posts with these acronyms to try find out what the acronyms actually stand for.

I think ARC is Aerobic Recovery Capacity, or Aerobic Respiration Capacity, or Aerobic energy Restoration and Capilarity, which if any is correct?

Think SACC is the same euro acronym? or refers to the same kind of training, but does anyone know what S = A = C = and C = ?

Not even the Alex Barrows article bothered to do it.

In reply to Rock to Fakey:

"aerobic respiration and capillarity"
"specific aerobic capacity and capillarity"

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks

Are they the same thing?

In reply to Rock to Fakey:

Yes they are the same thing AFAIK. To quote Dave Mcleod (https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Climbing_Research_-_Making_more_questio...

"The goal is to increase the density of capillaries (micro blood vessels) in the muscle to maximise the amount of blood coming back in while you reach between holds, clip or shake out. The type of training which produces this adaptation is low intensity, high volume work."


However, as with most things in climbing training there are no strict definitions really, the terms are all just what people different people use currently (ie aeropow, ancap etc). I bet different people do this kind of training at slightly different intensities, maybe some people call one SACC and the other ARC, I don't know. (Some people will say NO pump, others will say up to maybe 3-4/10 is OK). Certainly I've been told by a coach to do AeroCap training distinct from ARC training (where I consider the former to be an umbrella term, or spectrum on which ARC sits).

In reply to guy127917:
WTHeck?... YKW, i just had to look up AFAIK too!
but thanks for the good info.

In reply to Rock to Fakey:

Modern, scientific sounding, pretentious acronyms that really mean nothing more than getting pumped IMO

In reply to stp:

I thought they definitely meant not getting pumped (much)

In reply to AlanLittle:

I think you can train at different intensities: more pump for lesser duration, low level pump for longer.

In general I think the key for training endurance is lots of volume. To do that you don't want to get completely pumped out otherwise you'll need a long rest and won't get as much done in a session. Just doing lots of routes seems to work fine for me. The idea of traversing back and forth on jugs for 30 minutes sounds extremely tedious.